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Hi Ian, wrote: the My concern was that friction has a covert relationship to the Murphy family. It might let you tighten things, then slip when you want things to loosen. As you say, it's hypothetical

I made a mandrel with a taper lock to hold a handwheel (9" OD, cast iron)recycled from a discarded NordicTrac as shown here: http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/Crank1.jpg The groove at the end of the saw

Jeff wrote.......I'm REALLY good at miss-placing allen wrenches, damned trolls will snatch one in a heart beat.......... I don't think you are shouting at them loud enough !!! Anyway, to thwart them,

Richard, don't laugh, but ( uh, ok, go ahead and laugh. :D ) I mounted a couple of cabinet hinges on a couple of pieces of plywood and made my own cut-off saw. I put a metal cutting blade in my

G'day Johm Your proposal would work, but I would make two mods as I am concerned the shaft may be difficult to release. Firstly I would cut a groove at the point where the hacksaw cuts end, this will

Hi all, has anyone any thought about which is the better tool for cutting metal prior to turning etc - the 6x4 bandsaw or the circular type as exemplified by the RAGE2 Pro 355mm Multi Purpose Cut Off

Ellis, I'm REALLY good at miss-placing allen wrenches, damned trolls will snatch one in a heart beat. Any mod is worth the extra effort of a cam to thwart the evil creatures. My goal is to only need

Jeff wrote.......A carriage clamp would fit between those ears but it can get really crowded and hard to access......... Not if you mount it on the tailstock side of the saddle and offset the bolt to

Vikki, I modified my compound rest bottom, new pivot hole and a hole for the cam shaft. The 1677 has un-needed holes for those cursed hidden screws; would start to look like swiss cheese. Simple with

John and Ian, "...you've got me crossed with the other crank, Ian from South Australia. Close - I'm in Eastern Australia" OOPS! Sorry, both. I reckon I'll have to start taking more water with it! Andy

Hi Andy, Thanks for your condolances re the dental work. However, you've got me crossed with the other crank, Ian from South Australia. Close - I'm in Eastern Australia. I've got a tooth ache just

Hello Ian, Some lathes, particularly the "Weiss" ones (see recent posts), have a 10mm long stub on the end of the leadscrew, projecting beyond the bearing block. It's threaded M8, and as John says,

G'day crank. "So one good crank deserves another?.. John" The tinned copper washer to prevent steel to steel contacr, roughly equivalent to a babbit bearing. The internal grub screw is on the same

Hi Ian, See below: wrote: the are is I can't picture what you mean by an internal grub screw. How's that work? the Why? If there was float, wouldn't you take it out with the nut? I only have the nut

wrote: mirror in my Wrong gods? <G> I'm right it Yes, stay with it. That TS is in my sights but other things snuck up on the priority list. I'm relying on you to suss it all out and document the red

Hi Ian, I have seen bike handlebars done that way. My thoughts on such a locking mechanism were more on a par with a masonry bolt. Slit your close fitting shaft - even crudely with a hack saw - at

roylowenthal wrote: Ah, I mistook boring BAR for boring head, that is a really nifty idea to get tapers! I think that if I ever get that tailstock aligned I am going to have someone weld it together

Jeff Demand wrote: And thank all the gods that be for LMS :-)! I like that one a LOT, cranking the compound back to get at the screws if a serious PITA. I think that LMS offers that modified compound

G'day all, especially Andy Franks. Some of the 7x12s and their sisters have a nut at the RH end of the lead screw to the right of the bearing block. I think the Yellow versions of the Cummins lathe,

steam4ian wrote: I see why one would want to do this, but wouldn't this nullify the use of shims? Would they / are the shims even necessary? Don't know, but will in the next few days when the kit