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Barryvabeach wrote.....Unless your part is very big you should have no problem getting it up to 1550 with a MAPP torch........ Don't forget to surround the part with some heat resisting bricks to make

G'day again John, Gregor. Your description "If that sounds too rushed a similar technique is to quench harden the whole end. Clean up in slow time, then wave the flame gently at the shaft an inch or

I've got a Micro Mill converted to CNC and ran it manual for over a year before that out of the box its a pretty nice machine to work with but its small ,so very small adding the long table and

Hi Gregor, Ian, I had a really good colour chart in a metalworking text back in school days but that link's the nearest I've found to it. What you're trying to do is snap freeze the steel in a

John Taking into consideration that once you have the mill, you'll constantly find more things it can do or that you'll want it to do. I'd probably have to stand by my suggestion. By the time you have

G'day Gregor & John. I seem to have good results heating to dull cherry red and quenching. Then cleaning the surface back to bright. Tempering is done by heating the body of the tool until the it is

Works fine for me. It could be something's up with the hosting site, so I've temporarily mirrored it it on my site, http://maximumrobotics.com/Speeds.pdf

I can't seem to open that cheat sheet link....says it is "stopped" as soon as I open it. Anyone else have that problem? Thanks, Rick in CO --- Mike Payson <mike@...> wrote:

Roy & John, thanks. I'm sure I'll figure it out, but wanted a starting point. Your explanation of the tables explains why the calculator tells me I should be turning a 1/2" aluminum rod at 4,000 RPM.

In case you missed it, Paul Moir posted a useful cheat sheet today. What makes it particularly handy is that, in addition to showing the appropriate speed for a given material & Diameter, he gives you

Forgot to mention; the heated object color vs. temperature tables all assume you're in a very dimly lit room. Think, back corner of a blacksmith's shop in the pre-electric light days. If you use the

Hi Gregor, A rough rule of thumb for that 'magic temperature' is a good cheery red glow. A similarly rough guide to tempering the hardness is to use the oxide colour. After quenching to harden, clean

I have a Warco WM180V 7x12 as does at least one other UK member of this forum. I have had my one for just over a Year and believe it to be a lovely little lathe. Trawling through the Internet I have

Hi Roy, Ed, While I pretty much agree with you Roy, I found it useful to reference some tables initially. Starting from a pretty low experience base it was reassuring to know I was in the ballpark for

Hardening steels requires reaching a 'magic temperature', which I do not actually remember, or have the capability to measure. However, I am told that it coincides with the temperature at which the

It's not worth the effort to calculate speeds! In production shops, it's a big deal, on the concept of "time is money." For hobbying it's easier to just start slow & increase speed until either the

You should be able to get it hot enough with a MAPP torch. Don't forget, you're only trying to heat treat the working end, not the whole tool. I'm basing that on what my Turbo torch will do; I assume

Those little ones are primarily intended for "chip carving" not lathe use. The bigger ones look like a generic carving set, not a lathe set. Still, for small work, anything you can make work is a

Hi Steve, I too have been pondering what size mill would suit my needs. Not ready to buy yet but gathering info on what to write on my wish list. Your advice seems fine but relative. What sort (and

Very nice. Thanks!