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Vikki, congrats - I didn't say anything earlier, but i thought to myself that with those tools it would be a miracle if you can do anything. Just wait till you get your hands on a true HSS gouge.

I think you could use the existing guard if you were to build a riser block to raise it by about 3/4". Shouldn't be to terribly difficult to fix, but it really should have been done by SIEG, not by

Hi Folks, Well, success for the first attempt! Chisels came in today so I went to work :-). Results and commentary at: http://wrlabs.shacknet.nu/~vw/MyMachineShop/projects/HoneySpoon/index.html Quite

don't mill which step Ok, you have convinced me :-). With OLM just down the street I'll order a couple chunks of steel and have at :-). Not sure what I need exactly, but the 12L14(?) stuff is supposed

Hi Ian, I don't want to knock your training and comments, but I suspect you've been out of the industry and legislative requirements for a while. Over the last decade or two there's been a bureaucrat

Just FYI http://www.whitewolfairsmithing.com/taig.htm I have another brand of mill holders, (including 1/2inch) but I cannot think of the name at the moment. Dan Fuller Carrollton, Texas wrote: don't

--- Hi Rance/Vikki, For the occaisional times I need a slitting saw, I bought a few from Grizzly a couple of years ago 2.5" dia. w/ a 7/8" hole, in different thickness', and the "fits all" arbor. I

Thanks Mike, I knew there'd be an out somewhere. Last time I got them to UPS something to Australia it was over $US70. I couldn't see them accidentally including that in their offer. :-( John AK,

Vikki, that slitting saw arbor's 1/2" shank might be a problem ;-(. I don't have a taig lathe but that thing sure would be a problem with my mill which I believe uses the same spindle. A blank taig

Making one doesn't seem that difficult. Being lazy and intimidated as I am :-) I am considering this one:

The ones I've gotten from Enco are casehardened, but not necessarily through hardened. If you don't have a big grinder, a Dremel tool with an abrasive disk works well enough if you're in no hurry. If

The fine print at the bottom of the page says: *Free Shipping and Free UPS Shipping refer to standard ground shipments to locations within the 48 contiguous U.S. states only; AK, HI, US territories

It Seems that a Slitting Saw & arbor would be prudent additions to my accessory order but there are soooo many to choose from. For general work (not slotting), what size would prob. be best (most

Ed, Thanks. That's exactly what I needed to know. I don't plan on buying the commercial QCTP, I plan on making my own. Prob. build it for the 3/8" tools. I do like the idea of using the 4-way that

If you intend to use the OEM 4-way toolpost, it needs 1/2" bits. All it takes then is .022 shim to bring the cutting edge to the center. The smaller bits would need quite a bit more shimming. If you

G'day Mike et al. CHUCK GUARD. You have to seriously wonder at the value of the chuck guard. Somewhere in OH&S regs they say all rotsting pats must be guarded. On automatic machines its presence is

In getting my tool order together I can't seem to find out what size tool bits my 8x12-to-be takes. 3/8 or 5/16? Even if it will hold a 3/8 should I just use 5/16 for some reason? Thanks.

Sounds great, Anyone know if that promo includes international freight? I put the code in and their web software seems happy. Then again, I know international is all a big kludge on their web site.

wrote: in a keep that Hi Marcello, I reckon you could easily fabricate a bigger mounting block for the rod and microswitch to place the rod further out. Say 3 1/2" from spindle centre. The problem is

Thank You, Mike, now I've got a clearer picture of the machine. That would mean you cannot simply unscrew the guard because the rod would stay in place. Would it be possible to cut off part of the rod