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hi mark yeah, good idea building a shed in the back, but... 1. all the way down there? and all night alone by itself? un huh. had to wait too long to get it. have to do it here. I'm thinking a full

Group: Contact information has been added to the first paragraph of the home page. (It can come down as fast as it went up if I start getting a bunch of trash ;) Play nice! Plan B gib section is

Hi Mike, And I think you'll find they will happily supply a 6 1/4" face plate to fit this lathe despite the fact that the guard and associated kill switch must be removed to use the faceplate. That's

What I didn't say in my previous post was that I had decided the HF 8x12 was probably the best buy, but I just couldn't bring myself to pay the current price after it had been on sale for $429 for the

FYI, I bought the newest incarnation of the HF 7x10 (93212) with the recent 30% off coupon. It's bad enough that it is 4" shorter then any of the others (& two inches shorter then advertised), but it

My (very portable) 3.5x8 baby lathe likes to be near the teapot - in fact, it's on the kitchen table right now, waiting for breakfast and tomorrow's little task. Some weeks, it only moves out on

Hello all, I want to introduce myself. My name is Patrick I'm in Gaithersburg MD. I joined the group to learn something about mini machining as I'm a novice. I have a basic knowledge machining/metal

Sounds like it's time for a CNC conversion on that mill...

I just ordered a Homier for which based on my research was the best buy I could find. It costs $299 and the only accessory it comes with is a fixed center. Cummins sells the same machine but it comes

wrote: have problems ejecting the arbor....... to make up the difference and it does not have to be cosmetic. ...and John repeated: Get the length right. Keep the other suggestions as fallback

Hi Rodney, Welcome to the vocal minority! <G> Here are some random thoughts. Firstly, what's the hole in? I'd love to be able to do such holes in sheet for electrical panels. Many switches and fuse

<markzemanek@...> wrote: On the subject of stability, I don't recommend the Sieg setup. My manual said it was preferred to bolt to the bench but they also supplied rubber feet and bolts for free

Hi FRI, If you can get the wench to pick up your socks & jocks, you're doing above average. No way mine's likely to clean up chips and curly metal swarf too! Many remove the rear splash guard for

Where are you going to be using your lathe? NOT in the kitchen, I hope! <g> Seriously though, you're likely to have swarf everywhere, and it's a good idea to have a spaced devoted to metalworking. My

put a round bar in the tool post since it is quick and most of the time I am just putting the final contours on the piece being worked on. Here is a photo: http://www.firechat.com/WOODREST.JPG In

Here in the USA you can buy alum in the spice section of grocery stores. It works because it's an acid that attacks the steel but doesn't harm the aluminum. In horological school we used it all the

John wrote......Get the length right. Cut it too short and you'll have problems ejecting the arbor....... It is not too difficult to braze a small piece of metal on the end to make up the difference

Hello all, I have been lerking on the group for about a month now this is my first post. I have a HF 7X10 mini and a Grizzly Mini Mill and my main interest is building model steam engines. However my

Several of my MT-2s that I shortened a little too aggressively have a aluminium disc epoxied to the end to make them eject. I used one of those "cold weld" type super epoxies but I'm sure anything

hi all I'm a cliff dweller and have a 7x12 on order. I think I must construct some sort of enclosure to contain the fly-offs. (have to get along with the lady that cleans up) anyone got a design, or