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OK, Chris, go for it. If you want to look at one first, I'm in South Manchester. I can let you have pics of one or two mods I've made - if you want them, email me direct, because they won't be of

It sounds like I should probably just save them up for the salvage yard after all. Thanks for the info! Mike

Rutland Tool & Supply and Wholesale Tool are two other good internet tool stores. Gregor Stransky, San Antonio, Texas

Hi Mike, I am into aluminium casting. The problems with swarf and chips is that they high a high surface area and when you try to melt them you end up with a lot of dross (oxide) and very little

ENCO is a good tool store ,they have many all steel tools at low prices. Good Luck ,Fred harleyknall <knall@...> wrote: I am doing light gun barrel work, just need to reduce outside diameter over

They're actually very common in the states now - GMA3 fuses (5x20mm) are the most commonly used in NEW equipment. (Even the small portion still manufactured in the US) Rabid Uncle Rabid (

Ok, I finally got a lathe, & I'm finally starting to make some chips (and that's about it, for now at least!). So once I make the chips, what do I do with them? For the amount I'll be producing, it

Hi Andy had a look on the Warco website and the wm180 looks good value considering the standard accessories you get with it, plus also it comes with tapered roller bearings in the headstock spindle

You may be limited by the center hole in the stock 3" chuck; if so, changing to a 4" chuck will solve the problem. The spindle claims to have a 20 mm bore - it's reamable to 13/16" for a little more

I am doing light gun barrel work, just need to reduce outside diameter over a 4" area, and thread it over a 1" area. Its an 8.5" long x 3/4" thick barrel. Sound like this baby will do the trick? Also

Got it off. The trick for me, at least, was to use two large flat blade screwdrivers with even pressure to both sides of the handle. Using just one, or with uneven pressure, it would bind and could

Snips and replies to the various General Information thread replies. Comments embedded in senders text. Thanks for that, I now know what to look for in my next lathe! Your welcome Regarding CNC, I

G'day DBN & Mike. The temperatures you have recorded do not seem unduely high. You need to remember that the insulation is most likely rated for 90 degC. (161 degF) temperture rise, this is typical of

G'day Roy,Andy & Johns. I see your point about irrational ratios for the LS to work piece thread pitches. Getting lining up with some would be like winning Lotto twice. However for integer and

Hi Mike, I have a handbook and will look at it later. I would gather it has more to do with the classification of the motor. I've worked on a few motors and drive systems over the last 40 years or so

The Myford ML7 is 3.5"centre height, not including the gap, which is ~5". The bed is 4.5 inches across, but the spindle is not centred to this, it is 2.5" back from the front shear. Would this be to

Marty, the overall width of the bed is a tad under 4", so I suppose it falls in your "toolroom" category. There are two raised prisms (thus, the saddle must be different from a minilathe), the one on

considered "heavy duty" lathes. Those whose beds equal center height are considered "tool room" and those whose beds are narrower than the center height and considered junk (hobby?). Seig 7" machines

Marty: Your descriptions would certainly fit with my experience. My big LeBlond at work had a 24 inch center with ways about 30 inches apart. the smaller LeBlond was almost equal, and considered a

G'day Marty. Thanks for that, I now know what to look for in my next lathe! Perhaps somebody could "improve" a Sieg by puting two beds side by side. I noted your comments about the WM180, it seems a