开云体育

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <John@...> wrote: > > I doubt there is a "best" plastic for turning. Most of the less heat > sensitive plastics turn nicely if you use very sharp bits with

Hi guys, last night I've spent some hours trying to improve the cross table gibs of my mini mill. Dismounting the x-axis I've notice that gib was bent, so using the drill press I have straightened it.

That really doesn't seem all that far out of line, to me. When being run continously, most motors will be nearly hot to the touch. Generally, if you can place your hand on them and count to 2, without

I doubt there is a "best" plastic for turning. Most of the less heat sensitive plastics turn nicely if you use very sharp bits with low rake and modest rpm -- plastic will self-feed like brass so zero

Delrin (also called acetal) is a good one...just be sure to turn any plastic slowly... -------

Chris, the C-shaped hole in my Warco one is 2.25" diameter, approx, and the "fingers" can be withdrawn sufficiently to make full use of that space. So, theoretically it would just do it, (though I

Wondered what the best plastic was for turning? Paul

If I remember correctly, the fixed steady will handle stock slightly over 1" in diameter. An expanding mandrel is what you want for this application. Somebody here pointed me to an automotive tailpipe

Hi Rance, You can purchase the 125mm 4-jaw chuck from HF when you buy the lathe cost is about $58 and the shipping would be included with your purchase; likewise for any other accessories. The 4-jaw

Hi Chris, "Interesting" is right. Consider the rig new - there are no chips or other obstructions to airflow. The ambient temp is low and the load was the pulleys, gears and and unloaded lathe chuck -

What's the maximum diameter of material I could fit in a fixed steady? I need to true the ends of a piece of 2.125" tube but it's way to long to just run in the chuck without any additional support.

I'm looking for accessories in anticipation of my 8x12 HF purchase. There are so many chucks to choose from. 3", 4", 5", self centering or independetent jaws. In my limited knowledge, I expect that

Rance, without doubt i would say that the scissor type is the only way to go with the mini-lathe because the machine is so light and flexible (compared with larger and industrial types). The scissor

I'm looking for accessories in anticipation of my 8x12 HF purchase. I thought Carbide would be better but HSS seems to cost more. Why? And which one should I opt for? To tell you the truth, I'm

Hi, I'm newebie and wonder if this minilathe carries any kinda of NORTON gearbox. Neverthless any equivalent alternative would be OK mostly if done with a reasonably priced substitute. Intend turning

The capacitors have a bleed resistor to remove the charge, but put a screwdriver (insulated) across the terminals anyway. Apart from that, the transformers are bloody heavy, and if you extract the

Gerry, others, So what should I look for in a knurler? Buy just the knurls and make my own mount or buy the whole tool? Seems to me that buying the whole tool would be best. Do I really need multiple

I have the scissor type and apart from the physical restriction on what you can knurl due to the throat they have worked very well for me. Mine will take just under 2" and in reality this has not

I have the scissor type and apart from the physical restriction on what you can knurl due to the throat they have worked very well for me. Mine will take just under 2" and in reality this has not

There is a large capacitor connected to the magnetron circuit (usually thick red wire) short across its termials with a well insulated screwdriver and hold for a couple of seconds. If the microwave