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When purchased my copy they did not? have small book. The small book came years later. The three ring binder works better because only has what I need. Dave

The Machinery's Handbook I bought included a pocket reference, perhaps to reduce wear & tear on the big everything-but-the-kitchen-sink book.

The file #8 is hardness testing I finally got down load and the unloaded. Like Mohs hardness testing for material hunting just like pencil.? The other was magnic and tape now read to hunt materials

I found to be very useful with mini lathe is this list of charts & Tables It keeps from having to get? Machinist Hand Book out. I first by going machinist Hand Book but found myself washing hands a

How does thd plastic gear holdup over the years? Dave

I remember this post past . How is your mini lathe doing . If need good chart on imperial to metric drill sizes. I first one just left of my lathe see photo I send one. I have real good wall chart for

Ryan, We're on the same wave length ! I already checked the lead screw for longitudinal deformation and else as well as the half nuts plus the whole alignment. I can't say that it's perfect because

Thank you for your time. I explored a lots of solutions, it seems that the reason is merely the tight adjustment of the left bearing on the arbor. The dismounting operations are going soon, When done,

Thanks Jon, I don't think so because the two bearings are #30206 as per the drawing / BOM, please refer to the documents I sent with one or my first messages (2025 01 25). Apparently, there's no

PR Here is a last photo, Maybe you have a stack up of plastic spacers that are flexing under momentary instantaneous load?? They seem to be tight, but they might flex and return to their tight

PR, Here is another image, perhaps the change in size of the shaft is interfering with the tightening of the nut and the outer stack of gears and spacers and aligning shaft keys? Again, Good Luck!

PR, Here is another image

Hello PR, I found this image This photo of a shaft clearly shows a stepped section near the shaft bearing area of the spindle.? If yours has a similar area, you will not win easily. Did you

Gotcha. If it was me, I'd start with two things. First would be pulling the headstock apart and addressing the bearing adjustment problem. The inner race on the outer bearing needs to be able to slide

Ryan, I'm not speaking of alignment accuracy that would mainly lead to a machine a taper instead of a cylinder but of runout of the chuck that is currently resulting in an irregular machined surface.

Not bothered about having flat spaces next to the tools, that’s what benches are for. They’ll be roughly the same height as my current benches so it’ll work out. There might be some depending on

Thanks Roy I am cutting clock wheels for my private clocks. Even though the Carriger has a very tight fit when I cut wheels, I feel there are a little bit twist when I return the cutter for next

Yes! Either method works, The carriage wheel gives more rapid carriage movement, a leadscrew crank gives more precise movement. Adding a leadscrew crank is pretty easy & gives you the option of

1/100mm is about .0003". Over what distance are you trying to maintain that? Just curious as it shouldn't be a problem on shorter lengths with everything properly adjusted and aligned especially the

Question: Is lead screw a better tool to move the carriage correct in both direction than use the hand feed wheel? If so, I will make a crank on the right side of the leadscrew. (I am lazy, I do not