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Try the excellent troubleshooting guide from LMS: < https://littlemachineshop.com/images/gallery/PDF/drivetroubleshooting.pdf > Roy

Too much "Feed"?

Is it only when using a steady rest that this happens? You probably need to check the amps. [email protected]> wrote:

The motor on my LMS 7x16 cuts out turning down 360 brass when using a steady rest with a HSS tool. The 7" 1.25" brass rod is centered in my 4-jaw cuck to 0.005" and the Steady Rest is 2.25" back from

The I purchased last came with metric lead screw 2.00mm I do most time both inch and metric with dies. If doing projects that needs both inside and outside threads I just 2.00, 1.00 or 0.50 mm

Contact LittleMachineShop and see what they say instead of relying on just the website.? They do know a thing or two.

I have a handwheel not a crank so it no problem with power reverse. I have cut many threads this way. [email protected]> wrote:

The problem with cutting threads of a system different from the lead screw is that the gears can't be disengaged & re-engaged in the same position. You have to keep them engaged the whole time and

I still have my 20-year-old mini lathe and it is just fine the way it came. Regards, John Mattis (retired mechanical engineer) [email protected]> wrote:

Pierre, I believe both versions of the lathe use module 1 gears. And I think they are sold with same set of nylon gears. But I could be wrong about that. I have done some single point threading on the

With my metric lathe I got the imperial 16 TPI leadscrew and half nuts, I don’t recall getting a spare apron so I don’t think that’s a problem. I’ve only had to cut a few imperial threads,

Wasn't thinking about that but st a minimum I'm pretty sure you're going to have to swap the half nut actuator shaft and maybe the apron. The nuts use a different engagement to the shaft and I don't

Tony Smith, I suspect you are right about shipping. But I will keep that in mind. Thanks. Tom

Roy, I am still considering my options and may decide it's not worth switching. Tom

Grizzly has them for their 7x14 which is like the Real Bull. The part number is P0765129 and lists for $53.50. You would also need to change the half nuts. The part number is P0765075 and lists for

Hi Thomas, If you want to replace a metric lead screw by an imperial one, the pinion sets, as per the threading table of your lathe, will need to be modified. This is mandatory because there are no

My Real Bull came fitted with a metric leadscrew, and for some reason had the imperial one as well. I’ve never had to use the imperial one, but shipping (I’m in Oz) would be a bit steep. Tony

Why are you considering replacing the lead screw? There are numerous sites that provide comprehensive threading charts for either flavor lead screw; with 3-D printing, additional change gears are

The CJ0618 is a Real bull lathe. If I remember right (don't quote me 100%) the Grizzly 7X mini is also. Take a look there. It's easy enough to tell a Sieg from a RB by the cross slide. The RB has the

When I purchased my mini lathe (about 5yrs ago) it was advertised as having a 16tpi lead screw. I recently decided to check and noticed that is not the case. It is actually the 1.5mm pitch leadscrew