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This is yet another variation of a fusible alloy which is manufactured by Cerrobend and other smelters. And yes it is pretty strong and can be brittle. An AI search disclosed that Cerrobend “is a

Cerrosafe should be strong enough though I have never tried it like that. I have used it making chamber casts in firearms. Depending on the application, there may be enough "sprue" left over to turn

From their site, it initially shrinks, then expands a little after it solidifies: < https://boltonmetalproducts.com/products/cerrosafe-bolton-160-190 > Other thing, 1/2"-20 is a UNF thread, relatively

SO is Cerosafe strong enough to pour into a threaded hole & then cut a slot & unscrew it ? Do ya have to use some kind of release agent ? From what little reading I just did ( wikipedia ) , Sounds

Roy, Thanks for mentioning Cerosafe! I had forgotten about this method! Dick

Have you thought of using something like Cerrosafe to take a casting of the threads to better determine the threads? Just a thought and not sure that is what you were trying to do. Ron

Hi Paul and other for feedback. My Jupiter 1 pencil sharpener has only a cut edge on one side. I think another model has on both sides. As I have measured it, I think all screws are in inches, the

Most pencils are made of cedar - here's a link with more details: < https://pubsapp.acs.org/cen/whatstuff/stuff/7942sci4.html#:~:text=Red%20cedar%20from%20Kenya%20and,grain%20of%20the%20wood%20used. >

The cutter was designed so you can flip it over when one side is dull. Are you going to do something different on the other side? Did you ever find out what kind of threads the missing screws where? I

Hi Roy I did what you told me. After a lot of pictures and Trigonometry calculation, I decided to make the fine cut 30 deg. in my mill. A set up in a homemade jig and I did the fine cut. The result

Wes made a follow-up video after everyone told him to get a Drill Doctor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nI9n_Mudyg <markrages@...> wrote: -- Regards, Mark markrages@gmail

Actually, brass does the same thing with drill bits! The usual fix is to stone a slight flat, instead of a sharp cutting edge, "dulling" the drill bit. Roy

If look the rake angle of a drill bit and use the same angle for lathe turn bits. Most metals like A36 will cut like butter. Do not try this with brass it will pull tool bit into the material Dave

It looks a bit like the Worden tool and cutter grinder. Mike

Hi Mike, no, there aren't. I designed it with sketchup regarding the basic Gadgetbuilder's idea, with the experience I got from the CNC that I designed some years ago from the scratch, and using what

Tha'ts one sweet lookin unit ! Are there any drawing around for it somewhere ? thanks animal

Your rendition looks pretty nice, congratulations! I haven't seen a version that uses a rack & pinion to get the transverse motion, yet another interesting variation.? As I mentioned earlier, there

Here's my variant: This grinder, with its large table is going to be extended for lathe tool processing. Some holes are to be added to the plate as well as a vise for gripping the shafts. Note the

Unless the lathe has had a bearing upgrade, it comes with deep groove ball bearings, not tapered roller bearings. In either case, bearing preload does have to be set. Here's the SKF document, a Google

One of the great virtues of tapered roller bearings is stiffness. This is important in a lathe as you need to have the headstock remain in place under load. The greater the preload the stiffer the