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You might try pushing the bit further into the chuck as a way to shorten the bit even though it will be on the flutes some. Paul M

Thanks boys, you have given me some new idea. I am lazy, so I will first shorten a drillbit to minimum so it will not be so flexible. Only 3 mm visible length. I have a good mill. The rod is cheap

Standard drill bits are springy and will bend, this is why they wonder around. Start the hole with a “center drill” these is very short and stubby drills that are only used to make a “V” shape

All of Mark’s comments are valid (especially milling a flat spot to keep the drill from trying to wander when it starts to cut). Because of its small diameter, you will want the drill to be spinning

Hi johannes, Check if your drill works OK on ordinary flat material.? Maybe it's dull. Check if your rod is rotating while you are trying to drill it.? The drill may be creating forces that want to

Maybe this is wrong group, however, a lot of clever members: I have to make a lot of 1 mm holes in 2 mm steel rods. I have made a guide, and as you see, a lot of testing guide hole to compensate for

Aha!? I thought I had seen something similar but couldn't remember where. I like your swarf shield, that's something that still needs to be done.? The portion behind my bracket is easy but the front

Very elegant solutions gentleman! Ryan

That's how I did it: https://www.ajawamnet.com/ajawam3/swarf/DSCN2848.JPG https://www.ajawamnet.com/ajawam3/swarf/lathetopassylg.gif

Some time back I started working on a DRO scheme for my lathe cross slide.? There's not a lot of room on top so many of the approaches I saw had one disadvantage or another.? As a result I came up

You right about taking heavy cuts at low speed on mini lathe. The gauge is on there so do not have problem. Have a photo of the (spindle crank)?

Your welcome. It is probably lesser problem if you know before the gets to hot. It some of problems I read about mini lathes for years. Dave

I was going add a fan in November.? After thinking about the heat I need to know what heat is and someway to know if cooling fail. Also you do all your machining at 2,000 rpm. I even thinking of

Dave, I am wondering.... Have you been running the motor at less than full speed? The cooling on these is typically based on the motor running at full speed so the fan can move enough air to maintain

Dear All, Many thanks for the motor info. David from across the Pond.

Why should a minilathe motor be getting extremely hot in the first place? Mine never does. These machines aren't made for heavy use and cuts should be light. On the rare occasions that I've taken

105°C sounds rather suspiciously (or perhaps not that suspiciously) like the lower temperature limit on most magnet wire used in motor coils. Gets hot, the enamel melts and the coil shorts out. If

Here the finished install. 1) The first shows the the blue is heat shink tube with a sealer to protect the tubing left a little coil on the outside if gauge needs to be removed. 2) The second? Shows

I have fans. I was more interested in know what real temperature is before something happens. If ot is big problem I will add a fan. But still keep the temperature gauge just case the fan fails It

It's a good example of why ya should have a few old computer fans in yer inventory . animal