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You might try contacting Grizzly to see if they have the part and what it is for. Even though the mill is discontinued they may have some useful information. If you can't find the part could you make

Someone sent me this excellent article on how to disassemble and move one of these mills. (The rest of the stiff in hood website is interesting too).

The oil cup is good if you can fit it.? The problem with zerks, as mentioned, is that fine metal particles will collect where the ball meets the body so every time you push some lube in you're also

Yes.? Using a "wick" will usually work out fine if only a scant amount of oil is needed to get the job done.? It is my guess that the clearances involved in the parts, in general, on these things is

Drill a hole and push a piece of felt into it.? It will keep the swarf out, but still allow oil through. Mike

I think most people just drill them for push-in button oilers, so it would depend on the size of the oilers. Could just drill a hole and oil through there, but that leaves the possibility of

The lead screw brackets on my mini lathe do not have oil holes. Anyone know what size they should be? Stan

Aren't zerk fitting for injecting grease with a grease gun? How do you plan to use them for oil? Mike Taglieri [email protected]> wrote:

Actually, use non-magnetic tools - there are things other than brass that are non-magnetic! I'm fond of getting a bag of popsicle sticks from a craft store & shaping them into useful tools. There are

ho? remember? also only? use? brass tools? to? work on? these like? worl? on magnetron if? you? work? on magnetron? whit a? iron? toll? you modify? his mag power? and? it not?

I drilled and tapped my lead screw brackets and added zerk fittings.? Some others prefer oil, but I like zerks.? They work well on John Deere equipment bearings, so I trust them. ralphie

THESE? MAGNETIC? SYSTEM? ARE? DIFFICULT? TO REPRODUCE the mag? have? to? be? in? the? exact position for? his polarity? ?orientation if? you? mark? both? mag? for? the?

I have order from LMS? but never take phone. Good to know they are very helpful on phone Thank for review Dave

I do not know. I told about when asking questions about rebuilding a magneto back in 1972. Dave

I should of taken more pics. The only ones I took are of the control box wiring. The tap from LMS held up well, but the 2.5mm drill bit didn't. Tapping the holes was very easy. Perhaps using the Tap

Why would taking it apart lose most of the charge? [email protected]> wrote:

There are/were lots of discussions about the rear slide plate some time ago. On larger machines, setscrews through the slide plate are a common means of adjustment - on these relatively small

Like photo As metric goes I have all taps in inch. So I pick a inch tap close to metric thread size. Like 6M I use 1/4NC Sometimes I have buy a metric? tap so today I 10MM x 1.0MM LH and one 12M

Thanks all for the replies. I'm going to take it a little slow reassembling it. I did install the rack today and managed to break the LMS 2.5 mm drill drilling the first hole. So, I used a #40 drill

Congratulations, Johannes, it is always good to see posts like yours! Bill in Boulder,CO