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Last week, I changed the undersized, crappy radiator in my kitchen for a bigger one that heats the room much better. This involved undoing big threaded components that may not have been touched in

The lazy way is to use a thread restoring file to refine the profile & improve the surface finish. < https://jawco.com/collections/thread-restoring-files > Roy

Do you have a photo you can post of three methods? Dave

In the book "Screwcutting in the Lathe" Martin Cleeve presents three methods of advancing the tool when threading and discusses the issues with each method.? This is a great book for anyone just

I used 29.5° till 1976 and found straight free up the compound for settings. I could pickup threads fast and easy, lock carriage and find adjustment and quickly go back to threading. Using reverse

Actually both of my lathes have a compound. But I am in the long drawn out process of automating both Z and X. John Lindo is very enthusiastic about going straight in. Some day I will eventually start

Ralph is talking about a lathe without a compound . animal

The tool is advanced with the compound.? The cross feed is used to extract the tool after a pass.? And then the cross feed is returned to its same position each time and the compound moved in a

Is the tool advanced with the compound or the cross feed? John Lindo </g/digitalhobbyist> was the first that I know going straight in. He is using his RLS with automated Z and X. He

This is a topic that has been discussed repeatedly on this list.? I guess it won't hurt to cover the same ground again. In the hobby world, typically making small threads, at low speeds, often in

Here photo from *How to Run a Lathe* It shows two ways of threading. I have used both to me they work same.

I have a 4? ton arbor press upto ? broaching. Dave

I also have a 1 ton press from harbor freight but I am going to use my 12 ton shop press with a guide on the ram to keep the broach aligned.

Faster than reading a book. There is over size by 0.003" and tapper keyways. If you miss the size too. Dave

Hello,Paul! It is not rocket science. I would keep the keyway clearance at .0005” to .001”. The closer the fit the less chance of wear.

I would look for 1940's maybe 1950's I have both books After that they become more difficult to under stand. In 1960's that start with more on product and by 1980's was going in CNC and writing was

If ya look for one to DL try to find a older one . The newer ones are aiming more & more to the CNC guys & stuff for us manual folks is disappearing . There's several online in PDF form that can be

If you have the broach, simply measure it's width (not the same as keyway width) and cut a channel to give a close fit - maybe a few thousandths larger. I have a 1 ton press from harbor freight to

I think looking for number. *"Machinerys HandBook”* could take days to find. The book one is 1930s and 1940's? easy to find information.? I have books from the 1941 to 1980's and have read the

I have one but it only tells me the keyway info, but nothing that I found about clearance that should be used for the width of the guide slot.