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I just bought a Shars 6" dial caliper after admiring one belonging to a friend. It's probably the best and most durable dial caliper I've ever had. But I also have a Chinese dial caliper that's cheap

Thd best is cast iron filler next is braising. The big question is are you good at braising. If not JB is a good option. They do make better fillers but at higher cost. But JB is found at the local

JB Weld IS a metal filled epoxy and is plenty strong enough for this. Mike Taglieri [email protected]> wrote:

I inherited a nice little used milling vise from my Dad.? It's been sitting on a shelf for a bit waiting for me to clean it up and put it to use. There's a couple spots where it looks like someone

Back before WW1 they gave as Bed length. Lather it was center to center till Chinese lathes came out and they use a both center to center or chuck face face to center. Which I only found out last

I found it better to buy the correct steel and it makes life easier. Scrap is low cost or even free but it can be a pain too. Dave

The VERY first thing I'd do is do a file test for hardness. If it’s hardened you’ll want to anneal it first! I agree with the recommendations for using HSS, because of the interrupted cut. That

Probably many factors involved. Some small vintage USA lathes gave the centers standard and with the tailstock overhanging the end of the bed granting a couple extra inches of length for some reduced

Check this out - custom steady rest: https://www.ajawamnet.com/ajawam3/swarf/lgsteady.JPG this was for as LED lighting project for a subway system...

I would definitely take it off the lathe and get most of the heavy rust removed with coarse sandpaper or coarse wire brush/wheel first. It's not too big to turn. -- Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA

On the same idea as animal said. Take the bar out and use a wire brush in an electric drill.? That will be more aggressive than ScotchBrite.? Once you have all the surface rust off you can get an

If your suggest sandpaper, that means this doesn't need to be a precision surface, so I would try a very coarse file first Unlike sandpaper that will not shed abrasives all over the lathe. Mike

Use a very sharp tip carbide about 60° and a rake of 3° to 5°. Typically I would say C5 but for the project use C6 or C2 they very hard compared to C5. Note you may need to sharpen the tool bit a

Scotch pad animal

On Tue, Feb 20, 2024 at 7:58?PM Bill Williams <bwmsbldr1@...> wrote: > A shear cut tool will leave you with a very fine surface finish. Bil in > Boulder > > On Tue, Feb 20, 2024 at 7:53?PM

A shear cut tool will leave you with a very fine surface finish. Bil in Boulder

That's an option too.Brian

Maybe I shall cover everything and start with sanding paper? I am only interesting in a nice surface. The key slot shall stay there. Start testing to morrow! Johannes Lavoll.

I don't know what you have for tooling. I would try HSS first. The interrupted cut will probably chip carbide.?Brian

Brian: this is solid steel, 3.5 kg, because of the key slot , it will vibrate. Slow speed , yes, but what tool? Johannes Lavoll.