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I did this one: http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/projects/mill/rotary/rotary1.html[1] Really nice and easy to do. -------- [1]

Ryan, I think that the normal size of the brass nut would not provide sufficient space to allow an insert. If you could fit a 3/4" block in the cross slide channel then maybe it could work and using

A couple of years back I bought some longer cross slide screws off of eBay. I am not sure if they were custom made or actual parts from other lathes.? I made a couple of educated guesses on the

That sounds interesting , I for one would like to see your pictures Johannes . ??? thanks ??? animal

That's pretty slick Mike!??I thought about doing an insert for the nut because like you say, I don't think threading straight into the plastic would hold. My thought was to do an insert piece that

Could you share some pictures and info on your homemade one? Mike Taglieri

I use a small shop built dividing attachment to fit my mini-lathe. The headstock is worm gear driven. This unit fits right onto the minilathe and can divide just about any number of divisions. ?You

Hi What are you thinking about? for me is a rotary table 2 main thing: Home made of wood and this fancy heavy ones with a crank. (on my next charismas whish list) I can write a book about the wood

Is anyone using a rotary table with dividing plates on the mini mill or mini lathe ? if so what size are you using ?? Thank you for any information ?

Ryan wrote: I looked at the split nut mod but it didn't seem to keep adjustment all that well for Mike so I didn't do it. I'm hoping mine stays about the .008 I have now. I'll be happy with that :-).

The LMS kit has alonger screw (which should preserve the same position as stock away from the operstor) while the longer slot brings the position closer.? I thought this was as good as it got?

I'm sure you'll see why moving the nut back or extending the slot forward accomplishes the same thing as soon as you can physically see what is happening. Either one gives more room for the nut to

For my needs, the LMS kit lacked extended travel away from the operator. I need to be able to move the tool holder past the chuck for a part I make. I have a fixture in a quick change tool holder that

Ryan H wrote: I have a mill, several. Curious what was lacking in the LMS kit?? it seems to achieve both more travel and relocating the travel.? The same as "the Mike route".? Obviously it's $$$

I just finished up? an extended travel mod on my 7x a couple days ago. ?? I don't have access to a mill to cut the carriage and the LMS kit only addressed part of what I wanted to do so I did it

My understanding is that the Gordon Scott mod moves the effective range of the leadscrew towards the operator (so you can cut wider material since you've moved the cut position relative to spindle).?

I did Gordon Scott's method years ago & have been pleased with it. Roy

A wrap or 2 of adhesive backed aluminum tape (real duct tape) around the work or on the ends of the chuck jaws. Pet peeve - there's no need to quench brass to anneal it! About the only things you're

I replied to an ancient post.? My bad.? ?Brain in neutral.? Ignore.

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