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Hi Everyone, Well that is a LOT of very helpful feedback. I really appreciate it. A lot of the points are things that I have thought about. I have been thinking of considering the number of turns on

I remember Ted Hansen's article about correcting the carriage when it appeared in Home Shop Machinist. If the book is the same, I was not impressed. In the HSM article, Hansen designed an additional

Bruce, it is not being a broken record when what you are saying is worthwhile advise. And I completely agree that Ted Hansen’s book is very worthwhile and very reasonably priced. Check out

Hi Bruce, I have that book. What you are talking about is in chapter 5. I've considered doing that but being a newbie I've been a bit apprehensive about trying some of the upgrades/mods I've read

I kinda feel like a broken record on this subject :-) but Ted Hansen's ‘Complete MiniLathe Workshop’ (available from Village Press https://secure.villagepress.com/store/items/detail/item/3874

Thanks everyone for the replies on this. The backsplash is still in place. I'll remove it and see if I can adjust the carriage so it moves easier once I have some more time. Stan

Thank you all for the suggestions. I’d summarize them as: - Turn between centers (I wasn’t) / Don’t extend the work to far (I was based on Ryan’s description) - Check cutting tool (I will take

I agree, it sounds like the cutter is "not dubbed" on top rake as we used to call it, grind it neutral correct and it shouldn't "suck in", same idea with drill bits in brass and bronze, the taper you

You are using carriage handwheel to advance the carriage, and not the compound to advance the cutter. Your photo almost looks like your compound is set at an angle, and you are feeding using the

When you said "digging in" the first thing I thought of is the back rake is zero for Brass and Bronze in this online reference:

The adjustment scheme for the carriage slide plates works better on large lathes than it does on our small machines.? Most 7X owners find that shimming the slide plates is easy and works well.? In

Certainly begin by looking at and adjusting the saddle.? ?The saddle adjustment is a rather crude arrangement - you will have to remove the apron and the back splash (if still in use). -- Lone Tree,

Judging from what you have said, my question is ‘are you using a lathe tool designed for steel and having top rake’? If so, turning tools for brass should be 0 deg top and side rake ie a flat top.

For the standard of threading that most of us machine, the easiest method of finding out tap drill sizes, is to look at a chart ! The next easiest is to subtract the pitch of the thread from the

Also, what type of cutting tool are you using???How much material do you have sticking out of the chuck???What depth of cut are you taking???Material diameter???I've learned there's a lot that

Hi All. I'm finally? getting back into the machinist hobby after recovering from back surgery and other health issues.? From day one it seemed like the saddle/carriage didn't move as well as it

are you turning between centers ? or just using the chuck ? Is the headstock aligned with the lathe bed ? animal

"real engineers" are likely working with metric holes and you don't need a table to figure stuff out. It is simple enough you can just remember it for common sizes. There are not so many metric drill

Just getting started with a new to me HF 7X10 (extended to 16). Trying to practice on brass and the bit “digs” in as i move the saddle to the left. This results in an inward taper. I’ve tried to

And just to provide a little data on this, I found this at Tapmatic and it covers the topic succinctly with an eye-opening chart. http://tapmatic.com/tapping_questions_torque_vs_thread_strength.ydev