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Re: New user - some definitions and an example
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThis is, unfortunately, true.
Nevertheless, is this industry there are about 30 concepts and abbreviations You *will* need to know and understand. Google and Youtube are Your friend. Try googling "QCTP +lathe" and you will get it. And so on.. Some concepts that You really should know what they refer to are; Headstock, Tailstock, TIR, steady rest, shim, tool height, QCTP and related tool and toolholder, insert, micrometer, push fit, slip fit, interference fit, DOC or depth of cut, RPM, SFPM or surface feet per minute (surface speed per meter) and how it relates to RPM AND diameter, cardide inserts, HSS tools, rake (positive, negative and neutral), inscribed circle (w. inserts), .. These then go on to more advanced concepts, for all of above, such as how to use, how to make, and then go on to concepts like "what is or is not a "good" DRO, " with various opinions, what is accuracy, (likewise, many opinions), and so on. A short summary; A QCTP holds tools. A tool is fit into a toolholder. The tool holds inserts (or not, some are directly ground to shape. Inserts are *the* industry standard solution). The inserts cut the metal. Little lathes like ours need an insert tha has a positive rake. A good choice is CCMT, which has positive rake (7 degrees). Steel CCMT inserts work fine for alu. You must have the right surface speed for the toolbit, normally insert, to work correctly. This varies with the material. It is about 3x less for steel(s) than alu, and about 3x higher for inserts (usually made from carbide) than for HSS. Accuracy is the ability to make something into a given size. Resolution is the ability to move a given amount with good confidence (approaching unity). Precision is how close to accurate You are. Goals. Using a normal 7x lathe, a good user can make something into a given size within 0.01 mm. Measuring this is *only* possible with a micrometer (everyone should have these, better ie easier with digital) OR a DRO with glass scales (most dont have these). Being off by 0.01 mm from a given size makes many things useless. Bearing mounts are a good example. So are axels. Spindles. Optics. Alignment stuff. Interference fits. Light sliding fits. Example or test. Developing the ability to make something into say 9.995 mm +/- 4 microns (JUST better than 0.01 mm) should take about 1 week and 4-8 tries. Like making a 25 mm long piece of steel, so you can just, using moderate force, press it into a reamed hole of 10.00 mm , finished with a reamer. Once you are really close (about 10.000 mm - 10.009 or smaller, ie about 0.01 from your goal) you can, at will, use abrasives (wed & dry 400 grit, with ground backing piece) lightly polish the test bit until it fits. Whats good. You can press the piece into the hole using slight force that stays constant. Whats a failure. The axel piece gets smaller than 9.09 mm. It will just slide into the hole with no resistance. You have just gone through the exercise of making a piece with a light sliding fit vs a slip fit. The difference is 0.01 mm more or less. ? |
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Re: Slightly off topic - Vibratory Media Tumbler
fireworks toHave you tried jewellery & the rock polishing folk?You might also research ball mills, it's common for people making make some pretty nice DIY tumblers. Do a Google Image Search on "pyroball mill" and you'll get an interesting variety to choose from. I figured he wants a vibratory rather than a rotary one (rattle rather than roll) as they tend to be faster, do less damage and are quieter (but not cheaper). They're not exactly hard to make, but a bit tricky to tune. There should be something local to him. Even here in Australia I've plenty of choices: (first Google hit, not a recommendation). Tony |
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Re: Slightly off topic - Vibratory Media Tumbler
Jerry Durand
On 02/14/2013 03:22 AM, Tony Smith wrote:
Have you tried jewellery & the rock polishing folk?You might also research ball mills, it's common for people making fireworks to make some pretty nice DIY tumblers. Do a Google Image Search on "pyro ball mill" and you'll get an interesting variety to choose from. Nice looking one here: Of course you wouldn't be using lead balls to polish the brass, but the idea is the same. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand |
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Re: LMS Bed Extension Kit, HiTorque 16" $99.95
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýSteve,
?
You might be able to adapt a leadscrew from an Atlas 6" lathe. Acme 16 TPI,
31-1/2" long, right end unthreaded for 1-5/8", left end unthreaded for 7-7/8".
Didn't think to measure diameter of right end, left end diameter is 1/2" because
that's the bore of the change gears. Left end drilled and tapped 1/4" x 20, also
takes #3 woodruff key. I've seen it said that the 16 TPI thread form is stub
tooth, haven't measured it for depth so I don't know. Replacement split nuts are
available from Clausing and via Ebay.
?
Just a thought.
?
Anthony
Berkeley, Calif.
**
In a message dated Wed Feb?13,?2013 7:40?pm
(PST),?Steve Langford?writes:
If I were to do I would have to have both beds faced where they meet clamp them |
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Re: New Member
Jerry Durand
I cleaned mine up, had to lap the cross slide a little, covered the rack
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gears, and made a handwheel. Also made a new motor mount because mine wouldn't stay adjusted (it hasn't gone out of adjustment since I installed this). I have tapered bearings for whenever there's an opportunity to take the cover off. Oh, and I added a pilot light so I would stop leaving the power on when I was done. And a top plate for a lamp and magnetic mount. This last thing has been VERY handy. On 02/14/2013 02:38 AM, MERTON B BAKER wrote:
The 3 I have in use in my shop were wiped off with a wet klix rag, oiled, & --
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand |
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Re: grinder wheels
Jerry Durand
I bought a carbide wheel from Enco and just ordered their noname one.
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Turns out it was made by Norton. They probably make most of them, it seems most companies are owned by a few big guys. On 02/14/2013 02:18 AM, MERTON B BAKER wrote:
If Norton does not make such a wheel I'll be astounded. --
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand |
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Re: Wanted: Follow rest.
Hi,
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If you live within 48 lower US states, I can ship a 7x10 mini lathe follower rest to you for $32.00. This is a new unit. If interested and you have PayPal, I can ship it tomorrow, wilfred --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "G." wrote:
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Re: Wanted: Follow rest.
Stephen Castello
Quiet Cat Tail Plucker or Quick Change Tool Post...
On Thu, 14 Feb 2013 15:42:16 -0000, "Andy" <andy@...> had a flock of green cheek conures squawk out: QCTP - is that "Quality Control Test Procedure" or "Quiescent Current-- Stephen Oh bother now I have to learn how to learn.....so I can learn the stuff I need to learn to do the stuff..... |
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Re: Wanted: Follow rest.
Andy
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýQCTP ¨C is that ¡°Quality Control Test Procedure¡± or ¡°Quiescent Current Transistor Power¡±? ? If you¡¯re too lazy to write it in full, then us newbies have no chance of learning. ? Andy B Near Southampton England ? ? From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of GadgetBuilder
Sent: 14 February 2013 14:19 To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Wanted: Follow rest. ? ? If your machine has a QCTP then you might consider Frank Ford's follower scheme: |
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Re: New Member
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýFor initial setup, a good place to visit is
?
This site has much more and at ?you
will find enough things where the mini-lathe itself could become the hobby
(which it probably is for some).? Some of the more common modifications are
a little guard on the back side of the apron to keep swarf out of the gears, a
grommet or something where the lead screw enters the electrical box to keep
swarf out, carriage lock, and lapping the gibs and mating surfaces.?
But?the list?is almost?endless and includes changing to roller
bearings, adding DRO's, or even?going full up CNC.?
?
A couple of other good sites are ?and
?
is a
superb source for parts and accessories and definitely a good?friend to the
mini-lathe and mini-mill communities.
?
You might consider their "tweaks and enhancements
kit" =?
which provides useful things such as replacing
some "knuckle busting" nuts and?giving you the?little rubber boots to
keep swarf from getting into the electrical box.
?
is a good place
in England and has many useful things at their projects page at ?including
disassembly and re-assembly of the mini-lathe.
?
How mobile are they?? They are light enough
that most people seem to be able to pick them up and put them down.? But
they are heavy enough that I think careful lifting to protect your back is
important.? Some put them on a rollaround tool cabinet such as you can get
from Sears and similar places.
?
Regarding a drop front wooden box, I wouldn't
recommend that.? You need to get around the lathe to do things like remove
the end cover to change gears, see what you are doing when cleaning, etc.?
Instead, you might make a box that entirely lifts off similar to sewing machine
covers.? Being open also let's more light?on the subject.?
Personally, the first thing I did was remove the sheet metal splash back because
(in my opinion) it just gets in the way when cleaning,?wanting to use a
file or hacksaw, or just general access.? (They make more sense on larger
lathes where you can have the back stop and still have enough room to freely
access the lathe.)
?
You have come to the best group for these things
and in a pretty short time you will see there is a massive amount of information
floating around.
?
Chuck K.
?
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Re: Abbreviations
My pet peeve is radio traffic reports.? You're driving in an unfamiliar area so you tune in to learn whether you are about to hit traffic and you hear:? "Tie up on the approaches to the GWB," and being from out of town have no clue what "GWB" means or whether it's relevant to? your route. Now, "GWB" read out as the letters has 5 syllables. Coincidentally, perhaps, "George Washington Bridge" ALSO has five syllables, so the radio station has conveniently shortened 5 syllables to 5 syllables!
Similar problems ensue with terms like "the Holland", meaning "the Holland Tunnel", etc.? You have to be "in with the in crowd" to get any use of such reports.? My all time favorite is "the Blue Route".? You will not find "the Blue Route" on ANY road map, and the radio will NEVER tell you what they mean.? You can find it with a Google search, but few of us can do that while driving... So, while I recognize the value of abbreviation, I vote for defining important terms before abbreviating them.? I may use unimportant abbreviations like IMO ("in my opinion"), but I reserve the right to interpret your "LOL" or? "ROTFL" any way I like, possibly casting indecent aspersions upon your character! -- Bruce NJ |
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Re: New Member
Little Machine Shop has a minilathe guide which may be of help:
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ArcEuroTrade has disassembly/assembly guides for a similar minilathe here: If you are looking for a "portable base" you may be interested in my project here: I planned my "replacement chip tray" so that it could be turned into a box for storage if necessary, but I never got around to building the rest of the box as my lathe is always set up. Should be easy to figure out how to do it though. Meanwhile, the base is quite sturdy and holds the lathe well without having to fasten the base to the bench top. It's reasonably portable if you are up to moving 65-70 pounds (fairly easy with a helper). --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "crashbone256" wrote:
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Re: Wanted: Follow rest.
If your machine has a QCTP then you might consider Frank Ford's follower scheme:
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< > Lots of other interesting ideas on his Frets site: < > John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "G." wrote:
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Re: New Member
Hi Lance, and welcome to the group.
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One of the UK suppliers of the same lathe, though in its longer bed version, offers it both "as shipped from China" and "as prepared by us". Very helpfully, they have published a description, with photos, of the process they put it through: < > I'm not suggesting you demolish your new lathe to quite the same extent. For example, you probably won't want to get involved with the large section starting at paragraph 49 a which describes replacing the spindle ball bearings with taper rollers. However, you may find the rest of it useful in fixing any little niggles. The introduction mentions "paraffin", which is more precisely known as kerosene in the US. Andy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "crashbone256" wrote:
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Re: Wanted: Follow rest.
Steve Langford
Here's one... ? ?  Steve Langford From: G. To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Thu, February 14, 2013 7:20:36 AM Subject: [7x12minilathe] Wanted: Follow rest. ? I am looking for a low buck follow rest. |
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Re: Wanted: Follow rest.
G, you could make one. See:
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Mike --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "G." wrote:
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