Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
If you didn't need a coupon to get the sale price and there wasn't a parking lot sale going on, that lady was full of an odorous brown substance. Sale items DO qualify for a 20% discount. If this was recently, take your receipt and coupon back to the store and find someone else or contact customer service. On Mon, 11 Feb 2013, Colin Sharpe wrote: I wish you were right!? I bought my Harbor Freight 7x10 from the store on Route 1 in Peabody MA while the sale was on, and showed the checkout lady my 20% off coupon, but she said it didn't apply because the lathe was already on sale.
Colin.
________________________________
From: Robert Furmanak <rfurmanak@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, 8 February 2013, 10:00
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
?
I agree with your advice.? I started out with a cheap Harbor Freight (Seig) 7x10 , and upgraded it as I increased my skills and interest in machining. ?For small diameter work, they are not bad machines, and they can be a real bargain if you are within driving distance of a Harbor Freight store, and you have a 20% off coupon.? They are store stock items, so you can actually see it, rather than buying sight unseen.?
Currently, the HF 7x10 is on sale for $499.? A 20% off coupon brings that down to $399.? If you pick it up, shipping costs are zero.? Even though it is a small lathe, that is an attractive offer for the budget minded who is otherwise looking at around $900 for an LMS, Micro Mark, or Big Dog lathe including shipping.
?
From:7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of gerry waclawiak
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2013 9:15 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
?
?
Bob and others looking to buy a 7x lathe
I would not just write off any of the older lathes for the "new kid on the block" the new top of the line Sieg type with new motor and control technology,as sold by LMS and others. Whilst it is true that they are the best so far and that power is more than adequate at all speeds they are otherwise little different in design, fit and finish to all the other models that went before them and that means weaknesses as well as strengths.
As they are sold at a premium price and have limited availability this will undoubtedly mean a hefty shipping bill for many prospective purchasers compared with a "lesser" model that can be bought at discount locally and collected it might well be that they work out a great deal more expensive.
When the 7x mini-lathes first appeared the motor power of 250-300W sometimes something of an issue, especially with large diameter parts at low speeds, but the motors have steadily increased in power over the years and seem to range from 350-550 depending on the vendor and model, still not as good as the new motor Sieg (500W but higher torque) but a definite improvement and likely to satisfy most people.
Here in the UK the premium for the new Sieg is the equivalent of $300 and I have read it can run to that in he US too, depending on offers etc. If you want the extra power and money is not an issue then the Sieg is the best of the crop, but for those on a budget, who are a little less demanding or are not averse to taking things a little slower then one of the older could make a very good purchase and leave you change for extra tooling and accessories. There is also of course the opportunity to look at the used market as well.
Gerry W
Leeds UK
_____________________________
To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: clevinski@...
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2013 11:47:27 +0000
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
< br>> Bob,
I've had a Real Bull 7x14 with gear box since May, and I love it. It
did come with quite an accessory package, including a 4" 3-jaw chuck,
(which is standard if you buy it from Big Dog), steady and follower
rests, metal main transmission gears (not all of them), tails stock
drill chuck, live center and dead center. I really liked the
accessories (though I have not yet used the follower rest) and I
especially liked the 4" chuck and metal gears.
Just my two cents...
Charlie
--- In
7x12minilathe@...<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>,
"bob_guenthner" wrote:
Had a response from one of the eBay sellers that the Real Bull lathe
does have a high/low gear box. It's still a possibility depending on
what a follower ans steady rest would cost me.
Bob
--- In
7x12minilathe@...<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>,
"bob_guenthner" wrote:
I would like a larger lathe, but space and money are the limiting
factor. I do have access at work to a South Bend, I don't know the
exact size, but it's probably a 12 x 60 and an older South Bend that's
about 36 inches long. The problem is I work for the federal government
and most people at work wouldn't like it too much if I had a rifle
barrel or action chucked up in the lathe. I can do most of the work I
need to do on a 7x14, but could possibly sneak in some time on the work
lathes if I had to on a weekend.
Bob
--- In
7x12minilathe@...<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>,
"Tony Smith" wrote:
; > Not sure of the price range you guys are looking at,but at
1150.00 my 10x22
from grizzly is several times the lathe that the 7x12 it
replaced. I lost the 7x12 to
thieves last winter, and got the 10x22 as I kept seeing the 7x14
for around
$800+ with a bit less than what the 10x22 came with. The wife
wasn't so happy
with the extra cost, but now that i'm getting used to the bigger
I'm glad I got it. It
comes with 5" 3 jaw, 6" four jaw chuck, face plate, steady rest,
follow rest, mt4
center, mt3 center, plus a little tool box to hold the tools in
till you get a bench
made. I still miss the 7x12 tho, it was my first lathe and I
had lots of fun learning
with it.
Dennis
It is indeed several times the lathe:
;
010x22%20LATHE/100_4028_edited.jpg<>
(that's a 7x10, but close enough).
Tony
Vince. -- Michigan VHF Corp. The Foggy Mist Emporium
|
An interesting experiment would be an acetal nut. Possibly someone could try it and let the group know how it worked out...
Perhaps make a round acetal nut as described in the link below, plus a steel adapter with shape similar to the original nut but a large through hole. Turn the completed acetal nut down to fit into the adapter, press it in, then lock in place with set screws or pins. Or, the screws that hold the adapter to the CS could lock the nut in place.
< >
Based on reports from those who tried it, it works well, has little to no backlash, and doesn't wear rapidly. So far it has been used on Acme threads - the 7x12 thread would be exploring new territory.
John
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., gerry waclawiak wrote:
Hi John, Andy
I agreee with Andy the bronze would be the best material by some margin with brass a little better than cast iron but as with much selection in low cost equipment material cost is often a key driver. A quick look through my favoured model engineering supplier for suitable size section gave brass as just over twice the price of cast iron and bronze just over three times.
Cast iron is actually a quite reasonable bearing material for low speed plain bearings due to the graphite content and in conjunction with steel quite hard wearing.
My Real Bull lathe is nearly 10yo and came with cast iron nuts and is still going strong with little wear to nut or screw.
The "rocking nut" arrangement works by reducing the clearance at the end but then concentrates the load leading to faster wear in use, A higher precision nut and screw orf better materials would be a better soultion but cost then is the issue. Lead screw half nuts is likely a cost issue again.
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: andyf.1108@...
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 11:20:05 +0000
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: brass nut alignment?
I don't know, John.
I can produce no authority for this, but I imagine that bronze might be the best material for feedscrew nuts. Mine was originally cast iron, but as a result of certain "unintended consequences" of remachining my saddle dovetail I replaced it with one of the brass ones you kindly made and included when returning the tap, and that works just fine.
But if bronze is good for feedscrews, why not bronze half nuts on leadscrews?
Returning to G's original query, it has been suggested that he uses the adjustment which reduces backlash by rocking the feedscrew nut slightly. If his cross slide was stiff throughout its travel, that might help, but it only stiffens up at the outward end. That makes me think the cause probably lies elsewhere; hence the suggestions I put forward earlier.
Andy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Lindo wrote:
Andy Franks in reply to this recent post. Do different mini lathe (Chinese manufacturers)? opt for brass and or cast iron cross feed nuts.? Does cast iron have physical self lubricating properties (graphite) and would phosphor bronze have even been a better choice of material ? My ? Real Bull lathe was? originally? fitted with a cast iron nut. As you remember opted with the cross feed mods I did to put in double nuts (only to stop the screw running off the nut when I did the extended the travel change) and made 2 new nuts in brass so one of the nuts is always in contact with the screw at the end of travel towards the splash guard. Naturally re positioned them on the cross slide,backlash and or slop now is not an issue. I think double nuts helps in some of the gib issues we all seem to have,being that the screw is better supported. Again,many thanks for the loan off your LH Tap you made, it worked very well. Still have to make my own tap ,it's a round to it job. But thinking now I should of used cast iron , although brass the has never been a problem. Best to leave alone at this moment. Regards John L
|
Hi John, Andy
I agreee with Andy the bronze would be the best material by some margin with brass a little better than cast iron but as with much selection in low cost equipment material cost is often a key driver. A quick look through my favoured model engineering supplier for suitable size section gave brass as just over twice the price of cast iron and bronze just over three times.
Cast iron is actually a quite reasonable bearing material for low speed plain bearings due to the graphite content and in conjunction with steel quite hard wearing.
My Real Bull lathe is nearly 10yo and came with cast iron nuts and is still going strong with little wear to nut or screw.
The "rocking nut" arrangement works by reducing the clearance at the end but then concentrates the load leading to faster wear in use, A higher precision nut and screw orf better materials would be a better soultion but cost then is the issue. Lead screw half nuts is likely a cost issue again.
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: andyf.1108@... Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 11:20:05 +0000 Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: brass nut alignment?
?
I don't know, John.
I can produce no authority for this, but I imagine that bronze might be the best material for feedscrew nuts. Mine was originally cast iron, but as a result of certain "unintended consequences" of remachining my saddle dovetail I replaced it with one of the brass ones you kindly made and included when returning the tap, and that works just fine.
But if bronze is good for feedscrews, why not bronze half nuts on leadscrews?
Returning to G's original query, it has been suggested that he uses the adjustment which reduces backlash by rocking the feedscrew nut slightly. If his cross slide was stiff throughout its travel, that might help, but it only stiffens up at the outward end. That makes me think the cause probably lies elsewhere; hence the suggestions I put forward earlier.
Andy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Lindo wrote:
>
> Andy Franks in reply to this recent post.
>
> Do different mini lathe (Chinese manufacturers)??opt for brass and or cast iron cross feed nuts.?
> Does cast iron have physical self lubricating properties (graphite) and would phosphor bronze have even been a better choice of material ?
> My ??Real Bull lathe was??originally??fitted with a cast iron nut.
> As you remember opted with the cross feed mods I did to put in double nuts (only to stop the screw
> running off the nut when I did the extended the travel change) and made 2 new nuts in brass so
> one of the nuts is always in contact with the screw at the end of travel towards the splash guard.
> Naturally re positioned them on the cross slide,backlash and or slop now is not an issue.
> I think double nuts helps in some of the gib issues we all seem to have,being that the screw is better supported.
> Again,many thanks for the loan off your LH Tap you made, it worked very well.
> Still have to make my own tap ,it's a round to it job.
> But thinking now I should of used cast iron , although brass the has never been a problem.
> Best to leave alone at this moment.
> Regards
> John L
>
>
>
|
The primary adjustment is to set the centre adjuster up, with the nut close
up to the handle. Feel for the middle of the range of adjustment at that
point, then work on balancing the two outer adjusters one against the other,
so slack is taken up, but it handle still turns freely throughout the thread
length.
The centre adjuster sets the nuts overall height, the two outer ones balance
or push one against the other, to take up slack in the thread. If you then
measure the thickness of the shim required, just under the centre it makes
the whole process simpler in the future as well as making the nut more
stable. Instead of adjusting the centre, then you just tighten it up against
the shim.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]
On Behalf Of G.
Sent: 10 February 2013 22:27
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] brass nut alignment?
Wondering if anyone has ever had to shim the brass nut for the
'cross-slide?' to work right? I've tried the original and a new one. Both
leave it harder to turn the closer the cross-slide gets to the turning
lever. Any idea's would be appreciated as i would like to get this done and
together and use it some.
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
I wish you were right!? I bought my Harbor Freight 7x10 from the store on Route 1 in Peabody MA while the sale was on, and showed the checkout lady my 20% off coupon, but she said it didn't apply because the lathe was already on sale.
Colin.
From: Robert Furmanak
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, 8 February 2013, 10:00
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
?
I agree with your advice.? I started out with a cheap Harbor Freight (Seig) 7x10 , and upgraded it as I increased my skills and interest in machining. ?For small diameter work, they are not bad machines, and they can be a real bargain if you are within driving distance of a Harbor Freight store, and you have a 20% off coupon.? They are store stock items, so you can actually see it, rather than buying sight unseen.? Currently, the HF 7x10 is on sale for $499.? A 20% off coupon brings that down to $399.? If you pick it up, shipping costs are zero.? Even though it is a small lathe, that is an attractive offer for the budget minded who is otherwise looking at around $900 for an LMS, Micro Mark, or Big Dog
lathe including shipping. ? From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of gerry waclawiak
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2013 9:15 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions? ? ? Bob and others looking to buy a 7x lathe I would not just write off any of the older lathes for the "new kid on the
block" the new top of the line Sieg type with new motor and control technology,as sold by LMS and others. Whilst it is true that they are the best so far and that power is more than adequate at all speeds they are otherwise little different in design, fit and finish to all the other models that went before them and that means weaknesses as well as strengths. As they are sold at a premium price and have limited availability this will undoubtedly mean a hefty shipping bill for many prospective purchasers compared with a "lesser" model that can be bought at discount locally and collected it might well be that they work out a great deal more expensive. When the 7x mini-lathes first appeared the motor power of 250-300W sometimes something of an issue, especially with large diameter parts at low speeds, but the motors have steadily increased in power over the years and seem to range from 350-550 depending on the vendor and model, still not as
good as the new motor Sieg (500W but higher torque) but a definite improvement and likely to satisfy most people. Here in the UK the premium for the new Sieg is the equivalent of $300 and I have read it can run to that in he US too, depending on offers etc. If you want the extra power and money is not an issue then the Sieg is the best of the crop, but for those on a budget, who are a little less demanding or are not averse to taking things a little slower then one of the older could make a very good purchase and leave you change for extra tooling and accessories. There is also of course the opportunity to look at the used market as well. Gerry W Leeds UK _____________________________ > To: 7x12minilathe@... > From: clevinski@... > Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2013 11:47:27 +0000 > Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions? > > > < br>> Bob, > > I've had a Real Bull 7x14 with gear box since May, and I love it. It > did come with quite an accessory package, including a 4" 3-jaw chuck, > (which is standard if you buy it from Big Dog), steady and follower > rests, metal main transmission gears (not all of them), tails stock > drill chuck, live center and dead center. I really liked the > accessories (though I have not yet used the follower rest) and I > especially liked the 4" chuck and metal gears. > > Just my two cents... > > Charlie > > --- In > 7x12minilathe@...>,
> "bob_guenthner" wrote:
> >
> >
> > Had a response from one of the eBay sellers that the Real Bull lathe
> does have a high/low gear box. It's still a possibility depending on
> what a follower ans steady rest would cost me.
> >
> > Bob
> > --- In
> 7x12minilathe@...>,
> "bob_guenthner" wrote:
> > >
> > > I would like a larger lathe, but space and money are the limiting
> factor. I do
have access at work to a South Bend, I don't know the
> exact size, but it's probably a 12 x 60 and an older South Bend that's
> about 36 inches long. The problem is I work for the federal government
> and most people at work wouldn't like it too much if I had a rifle
> barrel or action chucked up in the lathe. I can do most of the work I
> need to do on a 7x14, but could possibly sneak in some time on the work
> lathes if I had to on a weekend.
> > >
> > > Bob
> > >
> > > --- In
> 7x12minilathe@...>,
> "Tony Smith" wrote:
> > > >
> > > > ; > Not
sure of the price range you guys are looking at,but at
> 1150.00 my 10x22
> > > > > from grizzly is several times the lathe that the 7x12 it
> replaced. I lost the 7x12 to
> > > > > thieves last winter, and got the 10x22 as I kept seeing the 7x14
> for around
> > > > > $800+ with a bit less than what the 10x22 came with. The wife
> wasn't so happy
> > > > > with the extra cost, but now that i'm getting used to the bigger
> I'm glad I got it. It
> > > > > comes with 5" 3 jaw, 6" four jaw chuck, face plate, steady rest,
> follow rest, mt4
> > > > > center, mt3 center, plus a little tool box to hold the tools in
> till you get a bench
> > > > > made. I still miss the 7x12 tho, it was my first lathe and I
> had lots of fun learning
> > > > > with it.
> > > > > Dennis
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > It is indeed several times the lathe:
> > 010x22%20LATHE/100_4028_edited.jpg<> > > > > > > > > (that's a 7x10, but close enough). > > > > > > > > Tony > > > > > > > > > > > >
|
I don't know, John.
I can produce no authority for this, but I imagine that bronze might be the best material for feedscrew nuts. Mine was originally cast iron, but as a result of certain "unintended consequences" of remachining my saddle dovetail I replaced it with one of the brass ones you kindly made and included when returning the tap, and that works just fine.
But if bronze is good for feedscrews, why not bronze half nuts on leadscrews?
Returning to G's original query, it has been suggested that he uses the adjustment which reduces backlash by rocking the feedscrew nut slightly. If his cross slide was stiff throughout its travel, that might help, but it only stiffens up at the outward end. That makes me think the cause probably lies elsewhere; hence the suggestions I put forward earlier.
Andy
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Lindo wrote:
Andy Franks in reply to this recent post.
Do different mini lathe (Chinese manufacturers)??opt for brass and or cast iron cross feed nuts.?
Does cast iron have physical self lubricating properties (graphite) and would phosphor bronze have even been a better choice of material ?
My ??Real Bull lathe was??originally??fitted with a cast iron nut.
As you remember opted with the cross feed mods I did to put in double nuts (only to stop the screw
running off the nut when I did the extended the travel change) and made 2 new nuts in brass so
one of the nuts is always in contact with the screw at the end of travel towards the splash guard.
Naturally re positioned them on the cross slide,backlash and or slop now is not an issue.
I think double nuts helps in some of the gib issues we all seem to have,being that the screw is better supported.
Again,many thanks for the loan off your LH Tap you made, it worked very well.
Still have to make my own tap ,it's a round to it job.
But thinking now I should of used cast iron , although brass the has never been a problem.
Best to leave alone at this moment.
Regards
John L
|
Andy Franks in reply to this recent post.
Do different mini lathe (Chinese manufacturers)?opt for brass and or cast iron cross feed nuts.? Does cast iron have physical self lubricating properties (graphite) and would phosphor bronze have even been a better choice of material ? My ?Real Bull lathe was?originally?fitted with a cast iron nut. As you remember opted with the cross feed mods I did to put in double nuts (only to stop the screw running off the nut when I did the extended the travel change) and made 2 new nuts in brass so one of the nuts is always in contact with the screw at the end of travel towards the splash guard. Naturally re positioned them on the cross slide,backlash and or slop now is not an issue. I think double nuts helps in some of the gib issues we all seem to have,being that the screw is better supported. Again,many thanks for the loan off your LH Tap you made, it worked very well. Still have to
make my own tap ,it's a round to it job. But thinking now I should of used cast iron , although brass the has never been a problem. Best to leave alone at this moment. Regards John L
From: andyf1108
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 12:57 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: brass nut alignment?
?
Before getting involved with shims, first loosen off the rear gib adjusting screw and see if that makes any difference. If not, try loosening the two bolts which secure the bracket that carries the cross-slide feedscrew. Just loosen them enough to allow the bracket to move around as far as the wriggle room in the bolt holes permits. Then wind the slide out as far as it will come, and tighten up the bolts. This might cure the problem if the hole through the bracket was a bit out of line with the brass nut. In that case, the slide would move easily when well back, but get progressivly stiffer as the nut approached the bracket and tried to bend the feedscrew more and more to accommodate the misalignment.
I had a similar problem on my lathe, but it had a different cause. Due to poor manufacture, the top of the male dovetail on the saddle fouled the roof of the female dovetail in the slide when I tried to wind the slide fully out towards me. Once tracked down with by probing around with a 5 thou feeler gauge, the problem was soom solves with a few strokes of a file to give the necessay clearance.
Andy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "G." wrote:
>
> Wondering if anyone has ever had to shim the brass nut for the 'cross-slide?' to work right? I've tried the original and a new one. Both leave it harder to turn the closer the cross-slide gets to the turning lever. Any idea's would be appreciated as i would like to get this done and together and use it some.
>
|
I mounted my non tilting version on a flat base that is wider than the vise. This allows the use of standard T-slot clamps to secure it anywhere needed. Often the clamps will be where you need to insert the bar to position the jaw of the vise. By having the base as I do, the clamps can be offset allowing better access for the bar. I also added a stop / ledge to the end of the base that contacts the edge of the mills table. This allows the vise to be removed and returned without losing the "square" to the table. Both have been a very big help.
|
The nut's vertical position can be adjusted to match the CS leadscrew using the procedure given on page 13 of this LMS manual:
< >
This should eliminate the binding you're experiencing.
You can also tip the nut (using the adjustments provided) to reduce backlash due to the nut, as described in that procedure.
Note that backlash is the sum from this nut, and the space between the shoulder on the leadscrew and the pocket containing the shoulder. You can add a shim to minimize backlash due to a poor fit here. Alternatively, adding a ball bearing to the CS leadscrew can eliminate need for the pocket, leaving just backlash from the nut.
To answer your question, I shimmed the CS lead nut on my machine after adding a ball bearing. I found tipping the nut reduces backlash temporarily but the nut then wears fairly rapidly until backlash gets back to about 5 thou where it sort of stabilizes and wears much slower. Bottom line: modest backlash is something you'll get used to and take up without conscious effort.
John
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "G." wrote:
Wondering if anyone has ever had to shim the brass nut for the 'cross-slide?' to work right? I've tried the original and a new one. Both leave it harder to turn the closer the cross-slide gets to the turning lever. Any idea's would be appreciated as i would like to get this done and together and use it some.
|
Roy, that's why the modification to the brass nut is necessary. Its easy, just follow the article and it helps the adjustment stay.
John
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sun, Feb 10, 2013 at 4:19 PM, Roy <roylowenthal@...> wrote:
?
It's already got adjusting screws!
They do tend to unadjust themselves, mostly from the screws vibrating loose. Some folks have shimmed them to eliminate the problem.
Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "G." wrote:
>
> Wondering if anyone has ever had to shim the brass nut for the 'cross-slide?' to work right? I've tried the original and a new one. Both leave it harder to turn the closer the cross-slide gets to the turning lever. Any idea's would be appreciated as i would like to get this done and together and use it some.
>
|
It's already got adjusting screws!
They do tend to unadjust themselves, mostly from the screws vibrating loose. Some folks have shimmed them to eliminate the problem.
Roy
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "G." wrote:
Wondering if anyone has ever had to shim the brass nut for the 'cross-slide?' to work right? I've tried the original and a new one. Both leave it harder to turn the closer the cross-slide gets to the turning lever. Any idea's would be appreciated as i would like to get this done and together and use it some.
|
There is a pdf file with photos on the group web site of how to modify the cross slide nut and make it easier to adjust. I did the modification years ago and it makes adjusting easy. I also lapped the gibs.
If you can't find the file "Cross Slide Nut Modification" E-mail me separately and I will send it to you.
John
|
Before getting involved with shims, first loosen off the rear gib adjusting screw and see if that makes any difference. If not, try loosening the two bolts which secure the bracket that carries the cross-slide feedscrew. Just loosen them enough to allow the bracket to move around as far as the wriggle room in the bolt holes permits. Then wind the slide out as far as it will come, and tighten up the bolts. This might cure the problem if the hole through the bracket was a bit out of line with the brass nut. In that case, the slide would move easily when well back, but get progressivly stiffer as the nut approached the bracket and tried to bend the feedscrew more and more to accommodate the misalignment.
I had a similar problem on my lathe, but it had a different cause. Due to poor manufacture, the top of the male dovetail on the saddle fouled the roof of the female dovetail in the slide when I tried to wind the slide fully out towards me. Once tracked down with by probing around with a 5 thou feeler gauge, the problem was soom solves with a few strokes of a file to give the necessay clearance.
Andy
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "G." wrote:
Wondering if anyone has ever had to shim the brass nut for the 'cross-slide?' to work right? I've tried the original and a new one. Both leave it harder to turn the closer the cross-slide gets to the turning lever. Any idea's would be appreciated as i would like to get this done and together and use it some.
|
Ceramic coating swap for mods / upgrades
I am willing to do ceramic coating of parts, or pretty much anything mailable, for some well done bearing upgrades in the cross slides of my mini lathe.
I do ceramic coating as a part of my gunsmithing business and the work is first class. I not only have done firearms, but vehicle parts such as differential covers, valve covers, lug-nuts and various brackets, and also household hardware such as all the antique door hardware that was hidden under two generations of paint in my house. It also has proven great on tools that have seen to much weather.
Contact me off-list if interested.
|
Wondering if anyone has ever had to shim the brass nut for the 'cross-slide?' to work right? I've tried the original and a new one. Both leave it harder to turn the closer the cross-slide gets to the turning lever. Any idea's would be appreciated as i would like to get this done and together and use it some.
|
Re: Who to install hand wheel bearings?
Robert;
I noticed on your link,you mentioned that you wanted to fill the apron gearbox with oil.
Did you ever do this?
You would not have to fill the box,only put some in the bottom,which woud travel up all the gears.
This would eliminate the need to put a seal on the shaft on the back side.
Mark
|
--- On Sat, 2/9/13, Robert Furmanak wrote:
From: Robert Furmanak
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Who to install hand wheel bearings?
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Saturday, February 9, 2013, 5:01 PM
?
I installed a pair of 8mm x 22mm bearings on my handwheel shaft.? Unlike most others, I put both bearings in front, with nothing in the rear.? This has worked very well for me.? See my post at:?
I could not have done this mod on my lathe.? I used my Mini Mill and a boring bar.
?
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of G.
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2013 8:40 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Who to install hand wheel bearings?
?
?
When I get caught up on some bills, who installs the bearings in the saddle and cross slide of our lathes?
I won't have a lathe to do the work on, so can't do it myself. It sounds like a worthwhile mod how ever.
|
John
Thank you very much! I will look this over when I get a chance.
Dick
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Lindo wrote:
Hello Dick
see my link of photos.
This modification project maybe more than you want ??to do.
As I extended the cross slide,also made the mods to rotate the compound slide without
having to wind the screw in/out.Sometimes upsetting the gib settings.
You just have to??align??the front of the compound slide to the face of the ??X slide,and use a allen T handle to??
slacken,or tighten 4 screws.Now really secure.I drilled ??holes through the compound slide to pick up
the heads of the original screws added and 2 new at 90 degrees through holes in the compound and tapped new holes in the X slide.
the added holes as extra??rigidity only.
I made a new??larger??diameter spinning /locking disc,I thought the original a bit thin and threads were a loose fit,
bored out the compound bores accordingly.
Also drilled/reamed holes for a locator pin??and now I can rotate the compound every 15 degrees with a positive pin stop.
The 30 degree location hole is actually 29.5 degree,for screw cutting angles.
then finished off the project with machined oil grooves and oil wells,and scraped the slide faces.
These mods I did some 2 years ago,never had any problems.
Hope this all helps.
John L
Spain
________________________________
From: Dick
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, February 9, 2013 1:32 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Screwless vise
??
I am interesed in seeing your idea as I will at some point make a modification to mine.
Could you contact me off the group?
Thank you
Dick
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Michael Taglieri" wrote:
I realize I'm replying to a post that was written almost 8 months ago, but I
tend to get behind reading emails from this group, so I hope someone will
still be interested. Many years ago on the 7x10minilathe group I shared an
easy trick to solve the problem of adjusting the compound. The problem is
that you normally want to adjust it with the slide in working position, but
then you have to screw the slide back to turn the two M6 capscrews and the
slide sometimes moves while you're doing that. But you can solve this
problem easily by simply putting spring washers under the heads of the
capscrews. Then you adjust the screws to hold the compound very snugly
while still letting you adjust it. I set the screws so the compound will
JUST move when I tap it with a lump of lead (which is what I use for tapping
precision surfaces). Once you get the compound where you want it, the
spring washers will hold it securely while you crank the slide back to
tighten the screws down fully.
Concerning what washers to use, you can buy Bellville-type spring-washers
from the usual sources
(). But I didn't want
to bother just to get two washers, so I used a couple of small lock washers
that I had already()
and filed off their sharp points so they wouldn't dig into the metal of the
compound.
I did this at least 10 years ago and this setup for adjusting the compound
still works fine. Of course, it's still a pain in the butt to crank the
compound back to tighten it, so a more elegant adjustment method would be
better, but this solution took 5 minutes and solves the problem of unwanted
motion of the compound, so it's good enough for me.
Mike Taglieri miket_nyc@
Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"
P.S. I have just purchased a Seig C3 7 x 14 lathe for work (scientific
instrument making) and have spent the last week getting it up to scratch.
I have been following the various threads on these small lathes. The basic
machine is good in concept but the finishing is a bit poor. I have gone
over the lathe and done some major refitting of the machine components and
some mods mainly to the saddle and especially to the compound slide
locking arrangement. Instead the lousy locking system as provided (2 M6
cap head screws) on the lathe as present and having followed the 3 point
locking arrangement that is currently being discussed, I have used a
tapered locking ring which is very affective and avoids the drilling of
angled holes through the cross slide. This system was used on an
instrument lathe (possibly Swiss) when I was an apprentice, which I found
to be elegant in use. When set up it requires hand tightening of a M3
screw to lock the compound slide solid. I will provide pictures and
drawings for those interested.
|
Re: Who to install hand wheel bearings?
I installed a pair of 8mm x 22mm bearings on my handwheel shaft.? Unlike most others, I put both bearings in front, with nothing in the rear.? This has worked very well for me.? See my post at:? I could not have done this mod on my lathe.? I used my Mini Mill and a boring bar. ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of G.
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2013 8:40 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Who to install hand wheel bearings?? ? When I get caught up on some bills, who installs the bearings in the saddle and cross slide of our lathes?
I won't have a lathe to do the work on, so can't do it myself. It sounds like a worthwhile mod how ever.
|
Hello Dick see my link of photos. https://plus.google.com/photos/112848589944601328801/albums/5760796018680783985
This modification project
maybe more than you want ?to do. As I extended the cross slide,also made the mods to rotate the compound slide without having to wind the screw in/out.Sometimes upsetting the gib settings. You just have to?align?the front of the compound slide to the face of the ?X slide,and use a allen T handle to? slacken,or tighten 4 screws.Now really
secure.I drilled ?holes through the compound slide to pick up the heads of the original screws added and 2 new at 90 degrees through holes in the compound and tapped new holes in the X slide. the added holes as extra?rigidity only. I made a new?larger?diameter spinning /locking disc,I thought the original a bit thin and threads were a loose fit,
bored out the compound bores
accordingly. Also drilled/reamed holes for a locator pin?and now I can rotate the compound every 15 degrees with a positive pin stop. The 30 degree location hole is actually 29.5 degree,for screw cutting angles. then finished off the project with machined oil grooves and oil wells,and scraped the
slide faces. These mods I did some 2 years ago,never had any problems. Hope this all helps. John L Spain
From: Dick
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, February 9, 2013 1:32 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Screwless vise
?
I am interesed in seeing your idea as I will at some point make a modification to mine.
Could you contact me off the group?
Thank you
Dick
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Michael Taglieri" wrote:
>
> I realize I'm replying to a post that was written almost 8 months ago, but I
> tend to get behind reading emails from this group, so I hope someone will
> still be interested. Many years ago on the 7x10minilathe group I shared an
> easy trick to solve the problem of adjusting the compound. The problem is
> that you normally want to adjust it with the slide in working position, but
> then you have to screw the slide back to turn the two M6 capscrews and the
> slide sometimes moves while you're doing that. But you can solve this
> problem easily by simply putting spring washers under the heads of the
> capscrews. Then you adjust the screws to hold the compound very snugly
> while still letting you adjust it. I set the screws so the compound will
> JUST move when I tap it with a lump of lead (which is what I use for tapping
> precision surfaces). Once you get the compound where you want it, the
> spring washers will hold it securely while you crank the slide back to
> tighten the screws down fully.
>
> Concerning what washers to use, you can buy Bellville-type spring-washers
> from the usual sources
> (). But I didn't want
> to bother just to get two washers, so I used a couple of small lock washers
> that I had already()
> and filed off their sharp points so they wouldn't dig into the metal of the
> compound.
>
> I did this at least 10 years ago and this setup for adjusting the compound
> still works fine. Of course, it's still a pain in the butt to crank the
> compound back to tighten it, so a more elegant adjustment method would be
> better, but this solution took 5 minutes and solves the problem of unwanted
> motion of the compound, so it's good enough for me.
>
> Mike Taglieri miket_nyc@...
>
> Everyone has his reasons.
> - Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"
>
> > P.S. I have just purchased a Seig C3 7 x 14 lathe for work (scientific
> > instrument making) and have spent the last week getting it up to scratch.
> > I have been following the various threads on these small lathes. The basic
> > machine is good in concept but the finishing is a bit poor. I have gone
> > over the lathe and done some major refitting of the machine components and
> > some mods mainly to the saddle and especially to the compound slide
> > locking arrangement. Instead the lousy locking system as provided (2 M6
> > cap head screws) on the lathe as present and having followed the 3 point
> > locking arrangement that is currently being discussed, I have used a
> > tapered locking ring which is very affective and avoids the drilling of
> > angled holes through the cross slide. This system was used on an
> > instrument lathe (possibly Swiss) when I was an apprentice, which I found
> > to be elegant in use. When set up it requires hand tightening of a M3
> > screw to lock the compound slide solid. I will provide pictures and
> > drawings for those interested.
>
|
Who to install hand wheel bearings?
When I get caught up on some bills, who installs the bearings in the saddle and cross slide of our lathes?
I won't have a lathe to do the work on, so can't do it myself. It sounds like a worthwhile mod how ever.
|
GadgetBuilder
gerry waclawiak
John Mattis
maschwiebert
OldToolmaker