Who to install hand wheel bearings?
When I get caught up on some bills, who installs the bearings in the saddle and cross slide of our lathes?
I won't have a lathe to do the work on, so can't do it myself. It sounds like a worthwhile mod how ever.
|
I am interesed in seeing your idea as I will at some point make a modification to mine.
Could you contact me off the group?
Thank you
Dick
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Michael Taglieri" wrote:
I realize I'm replying to a post that was written almost 8 months ago, but I
tend to get behind reading emails from this group, so I hope someone will
still be interested. Many years ago on the 7x10minilathe group I shared an
easy trick to solve the problem of adjusting the compound. The problem is
that you normally want to adjust it with the slide in working position, but
then you have to screw the slide back to turn the two M6 capscrews and the
slide sometimes moves while you're doing that. But you can solve this
problem easily by simply putting spring washers under the heads of the
capscrews. Then you adjust the screws to hold the compound very snugly
while still letting you adjust it. I set the screws so the compound will
JUST move when I tap it with a lump of lead (which is what I use for tapping
precision surfaces). Once you get the compound where you want it, the
spring washers will hold it securely while you crank the slide back to
tighten the screws down fully.
Concerning what washers to use, you can buy Bellville-type spring-washers
from the usual sources
(). But I didn't want
to bother just to get two washers, so I used a couple of small lock washers
that I had already()
and filed off their sharp points so they wouldn't dig into the metal of the
compound.
I did this at least 10 years ago and this setup for adjusting the compound
still works fine. Of course, it's still a pain in the butt to crank the
compound back to tighten it, so a more elegant adjustment method would be
better, but this solution took 5 minutes and solves the problem of unwanted
motion of the compound, so it's good enough for me.
Mike Taglieri miket_nyc@...
Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"
P.S. I have just purchased a Seig C3 7 x 14 lathe for work (scientific
instrument making) and have spent the last week getting it up to scratch.
I have been following the various threads on these small lathes. The basic
machine is good in concept but the finishing is a bit poor. I have gone
over the lathe and done some major refitting of the machine components and
some mods mainly to the saddle and especially to the compound slide
locking arrangement. Instead the lousy locking system as provided (2 M6
cap head screws) on the lathe as present and having followed the 3 point
locking arrangement that is currently being discussed, I have used a
tapered locking ring which is very affective and avoids the drilling of
angled holes through the cross slide. This system was used on an
instrument lathe (possibly Swiss) when I was an apprentice, which I found
to be elegant in use. When set up it requires hand tightening of a M3
screw to lock the compound slide solid. I will provide pictures and
drawings for those interested.
|
Re: seperating workpiece cyno
Hi and thanks? good idea , yes its removed Don ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of anthrhodes@...
Sent: Saturday, 9 February 2013 5:27 p.m.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: seperating workpiece cyno? ? I suppose you've probably solved this by now, but if not --- Hold a steel piece hard against the aluminum piece, no clearance, then strike the block with a common hammer, not soft or dead blow. If you don't trust this, make up a test piece to try it on first. In a message dated Wed Feb?6,?2013 9:10?pm (PST),?Don Leitch?writes: That's what I thought I was going to be able to do .
But its ali and I didn't want to ding it, I tried with a plastic mallet ,
nothing happened.
|
Re: seperating workpiece cyno
Don,
?
I suppose you've probably solved this by now, but if not ---
?
Hold a steel piece hard against the aluminum piece, no clearance, then
strike the block with a common hammer, not soft or dead blow. If you don't trust
this, make up a test piece to try it on first.
?
Just a thought.
?
Anthony
Berkeley, Calif.
****
In a message dated Wed Feb?6,?2013 9:10?pm (PST),?Don
Leitch?writes:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
That's
what I thought I was going to be able to do .
But its ali and I didn't
want to ding it, I tried with a plastic mallet ,
nothing
happened.
|
I realize I'm replying to a post that was written almost 8 months ago, but I
tend to get behind reading emails from this group, so I hope someone will
still be interested. Many years ago on the 7x10minilathe group I shared an
easy trick to solve the problem of adjusting the compound. The problem is
that you normally want to adjust it with the slide in working position, but
then you have to screw the slide back to turn the two M6 capscrews and the
slide sometimes moves while you're doing that. But you can solve this
problem easily by simply putting spring washers under the heads of the
capscrews. Then you adjust the screws to hold the compound very snugly
while still letting you adjust it. I set the screws so the compound will
JUST move when I tap it with a lump of lead (which is what I use for tapping
precision surfaces). Once you get the compound where you want it, the
spring washers will hold it securely while you crank the slide back to
tighten the screws down fully.
Concerning what washers to use, you can buy Bellville-type spring-washers
from the usual sources
(). But I didn't want
to bother just to get two washers, so I used a couple of small lock washers
that I had already()
and filed off their sharp points so they wouldn't dig into the metal of the
compound.
I did this at least 10 years ago and this setup for adjusting the compound
still works fine. Of course, it's still a pain in the butt to crank the
compound back to tighten it, so a more elegant adjustment method would be
better, but this solution took 5 minutes and solves the problem of unwanted
motion of the compound, so it's good enough for me.
Mike Taglieri miket_nyc@...
Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
P.S. I have just purchased a Seig C3 7 x 14 lathe for work (scientific
instrument making) and have spent the last week getting it up to scratch.
I have been following the various threads on these small lathes. The basic
machine is good in concept but the finishing is a bit poor. I have gone
over the lathe and done some major refitting of the machine components and
some mods mainly to the saddle and especially to the compound slide
locking arrangement. Instead the lousy locking system as provided (2 M6
cap head screws) on the lathe as present and having followed the 3 point
locking arrangement that is currently being discussed, I have used a
tapered locking ring which is very affective and avoids the drilling of
angled holes through the cross slide. This system was used on an
instrument lathe (possibly Swiss) when I was an apprentice, which I found
to be elegant in use. When set up it requires hand tightening of a M3
screw to lock the compound slide solid. I will provide pictures and
drawings for those interested.
|
Re: If you ever need to make a spindle workstop...
That's a great idea...
Mark Schwiebert wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I drilled the draw bolt for my collet chuck, so I could run a stop through it.
I just used 1/4 in, redi-bolt, for the stop,so I could adjust it all thr way from the collet, to the nut
on the end of the spindle.
--- On Fri, 2/8/13, WAM <ajawam2@...> wrote:
From: WAM <ajawam2@...>
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] If you ever need to make a spindle workstop...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Friday, February 8, 2013, 7:43 PM
Thanks!!... Been wanting to do that for a while. I made some ends that allow me to get past the chuck jaws and do down to 1/8" diameters. I made the body of it .63" to fit the 3" chuck bore to center the .11" stop end. The stop ends thread into the body so I can make various sizes as needed.
Mark Schwiebert wrote:
WAM;
nice job on that!
--- On Thu, 2/7/13, WAM ajawam2@...> wrote:
From: WAM ajawam2@...>
Subject: [7x12minilathe] If you ever need to make a spindle workstop...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Thursday, February 7, 2013, 4:29 PM
... bicycle handle bar nuts fit the 7x bore.
I just tapped one to fit some 1/8" threaded tube used for lamps (straight 1/8" x 27 pipe), bored the other out with some slop to allow it to move up the wedge.
Welded a 1/4 x20 coupler to one end and used a pipe nut (modded to straight 1/8" x27 thread) as a jam nut. The plastic 1/4x20 wingnut sets the depth stop. The aluminum spacer gets it thru the change gear door (I have a hinged door on mine with a captive thumb screw so it's a bit longer..)
pics:
|
Re: If you ever need to make a spindle workstop...
I drilled the draw bolt for my collet chuck, so I could run a stop through it.
I just used 1/4 in, redi-bolt, for the stop,so I could adjust it all thr way from the collet, to the nut
on the end of the spindle.
|
--- On Fri, 2/8/13, WAM wrote:
From: WAM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] If you ever need to make a spindle workstop...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Friday, February 8, 2013, 7:43 PM
?
Thanks!!... Been wanting to do that for a while. I made some ends that
allow me to get past the chuck jaws and do down to 1/8" diameters. I
made the body of it .63" to fit the 3" chuck bore to center the .11"
stop end. The stop ends thread into the body so I can make various sizes
as needed.
Mark Schwiebert wrote:
>WAM;
>nice job on that!
>
>--- On Thu, 2/7/13, WAM > wrote:
>
>
>From: WAM >
>Subject: [7x12minilathe] If you ever need to make a spindle workstop...
>To:
>Date: Thursday, February 7, 2013, 4:29 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>... bicycle handle bar nuts fit the 7x bore.
>
>I just tapped one to fit some 1/8" threaded tube used for lamps
>(straight 1/8" x 27 pipe), bored the other out with some slop to allow
>it to move up the wedge.
>Welded a 1/4 x20 coupler to one end and used a pipe nut (modded to
>straight 1/8" x27 thread) as a jam nut. The plastic 1/4x20 wingnut sets
>the depth stop. The aluminum spacer gets it thru the change gear door
>(I have a hinged door on mine with a captive thumb screw so it's a bit
>longer..)
>
>pics:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
|
On Friday, February 08, 2013 03:06:17 am you wrote: Tell me if I should change my thinking.
Warren you know your machine so you're OK if you work with more than one brand or type of machine the axis designations break down fairly quickly ,they usually try to stay close to 'the book' for them but not always so it comes down to knowing the quirks of the machine you're working on I work on a couple mill/turns where the Y axis is mirrored ,it makes perfect sense when you stand at the machine but most cad/cam programs will give you upside down code (or is it backwards?) on another they folded them over ,everything on the main spindle is right but the sub spindle is all wrong ,until you get used to it you need a map at the machine just to make offset adjustments and another to figure out the error messages ,if the X2 axis has a problem it shows up as U1 never could stand that machine Brian -- Nemo Me Impune Lacessit
|
Re: If you ever need to make a spindle workstop...
Thanks!!... Been wanting to do that for a while. I made some ends that allow me to get past the chuck jaws and do down to 1/8" diameters. I made the body of it .63" to fit the 3" chuck bore to center the .11" stop end. The stop ends thread into the body so I can make various sizes as needed.
Mark Schwiebert wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
WAM;
nice job on that!
--- On Thu, 2/7/13, WAM <ajawam2@...> wrote:
From: WAM <ajawam2@...>
Subject: [7x12minilathe] If you ever need to make a spindle workstop...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Thursday, February 7, 2013, 4:29 PM
... bicycle handle bar nuts fit the 7x bore.
I just tapped one to fit some 1/8" threaded tube used for lamps (straight 1/8" x 27 pipe), bored the other out with some slop to allow it to move up the wedge.
Welded a 1/4 x20 coupler to one end and used a pipe nut (modded to straight 1/8" x27 thread) as a jam nut. The plastic 1/4x20 wingnut sets the depth stop. The aluminum spacer gets it thru the change gear door (I have a hinged door on mine with a captive thumb screw so it's a bit longer..)
pics:
|
Re: seperating workpiece cyno
Too right! I had a gallon (1.25 US gallons) can of acetone, nearly full. It?lurked?untouched in the garage for 30 years. When I eventually needed some, it was empty. The top surface?had gone rusty (condensation, probably) and there were one or two pinholes through it.
?
Andy
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: maschwiebert@... Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2013 09:23:16 -0800 Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] seperating workpiece cyno ?
|
Make sure you put the acetone lid back on TIGHT!
I went to get a can down that was only two months old,and it was empty.
The lid tightened up with about a 1/16 of a turn.
Hard to believe that most of a quart evaporated out of that cap.
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- On Thu, 2/7/13, Colin Sharpe wrote:
From: Colin Sharpe
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] seperating workpiece cyno
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Date: Thursday, February 7, 2013, 11:56 AM
?
Hardware stores sell acetone in quart cans quite cheaply.? One can should last a lifetime of CA removal and removal of your wife's nail polish.
Colin.
From: SirJohnOfYork
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Thursday, 7 February 2013, 0:53
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] seperating workpiece cyno
?
?Borrow somebody's Nail Polish Remover. Make sure it is acetone based. Given a little soak time it'll turn the glue into goo, and separation & clean up gets easy after that. My first experience with Super Glue () for work holding, was making two headed (and two tailed) coins. Held a lot better than I expected. If I were to offer advice to anyone it would be to simply follow the directions - using too much glue is as bad or worse than not using enough. A small drop goes a long way...!
?My wife hit the local Dollar Store and picked up a couple bottles of acetone based Nail Polish Remover for, you guessed it, $1 each. Will probably last for quite awhile yet, since I can use the bottle cap to soak the coins in, so it doesn't take very much. (I glued coins to the end of a short length of a freshly faced steel bar, then used a dial indicator to center the coin in my 4-jaw chuck). Afterwards I just stood the bar vertically on the coin end which was sitting in a cap full of nail polish remover, and let it soak for awhile...
?John Z.
On 2/6/2013 10:23 PM, zl1atb wrote:
?
I saw a few weeks back guys using cyno superglue to attach small pieces to dress them up,someone was turning both sides of a narrow washer, I cant remember how to seperate the turned piece.
I glued some 2 inch ali bar it held good , now ?its still held good .
I tried hitting it with a plastic mallet , wondering If I should soak it, hoping the cyno will break down.
Don
|
Re: seperating workpiece cyno
Make sure you put the acetone lid back on TIGHT!
I went to get a can down that was only two months old,and it was empty.
The lid tightened up with about a 1/16 of a turn.
Hard to believe that most of a quart evaporated out of that cap.
|
--- On Thu, 2/7/13, Colin Sharpe wrote:
From: Colin Sharpe
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] seperating workpiece cyno
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Date: Thursday, February 7, 2013, 11:56 AM
?
Hardware stores sell acetone in quart cans quite cheaply.? One can should last a lifetime of CA removal and removal of your wife's nail polish.
Colin.
From: SirJohnOfYork
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Thursday, 7 February 2013, 0:53
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] seperating workpiece cyno
?
?Borrow somebody's Nail Polish Remover. Make sure it is acetone based. Given a little soak time it'll turn the glue into goo, and separation & clean up gets easy after that. My first experience with Super Glue () for work holding, was making two headed (and two tailed) coins. Held a lot better than I expected. If I were to offer advice to anyone it would be to simply follow the directions - using too much glue is as bad or worse than not using enough. A small drop goes a long way...!
?My wife hit the local Dollar Store and picked up a couple bottles of acetone based Nail Polish Remover for, you guessed it, $1 each. Will probably last for quite awhile yet, since I can use the bottle cap to soak the coins in, so it doesn't take very much. (I glued coins to the end of a short length of a freshly
faced steel bar, then used a dial indicator to center the coin in my 4-jaw chuck). Afterwards I just stood the bar vertically on the coin end which was sitting in a cap full of nail polish remover, and let it soak for awhile...
?John Z.
On 2/6/2013 10:23 PM, zl1atb wrote:
?
I saw a few weeks back guys using cyno superglue to attach small pieces to dress them up,someone was turning both sides of a narrow washer, I cant remember how to seperate the turned piece.
I glued some 2 inch ali bar it held good , now ?its still held good .
I tried hitting it with a plastic mallet , wondering If I should soak it, hoping the cyno will break down.
Don
|
Re: If you ever need to make a spindle workstop...
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- On Thu, 2/7/13, WAM wrote:
From: WAM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] If you ever need to make a spindle workstop...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Thursday, February 7, 2013, 4:29 PM
?
... bicycle handle bar nuts fit the 7x bore.
I just tapped one to fit some 1/8" threaded tube used for lamps
(straight 1/8" x 27 pipe), bored the other out with some slop to allow
it to move up the wedge.
Welded a 1/4 x20 coupler to one end and used a pipe nut (modded to
straight 1/8" x27 thread) as a jam nut. The plastic 1/4x20 wingnut sets
the depth stop. The aluminum spacer gets it thru the change gear door
(I have a hinged door on mine with a captive thumb screw so it's a bit
longer..)
pics:
|
Mike wrote.......Now you are really confusing
me.......
?
Yes and me too. I was?taught many years ago at
college and confirmed later by a manufacturer, that all axis relate to the
workholder. Consider the lathe, the spindle axis holds the work. Now a vertical
milling machine, the spindle holds the cutting tool, but so does a horizontal
milling machine and the spindle is parallel to the bed!? Never mind slant
bed machines, multi-axis machining centres etc. So the Z axis move towards
and/or away from the workholder. The X & Y axis move across the workholder
at right angles to each other. Not all 3 need to be used eg centre lathe and
some machines have 4 or more axis eg multi-spindle machining centres. However,
as we are not all professional machining companies, we don't need to get our
knickers in a twist over it.
Cheers.
???????
Ellis
|
Mike,
My error! I meant "z axis".
Thanks for the correction.
Dick
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "drmico60" wrote:
Hi Dick,
Now you are really confusing me. In message 69578 you said the on a lathe the Z axis was the long axis parallel to the lathe bed and also the spindle axis.
Now you tell me that the spindle axis determine the x axis.
Which is correct.
Mike
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Dick" wrote:
Ellis,
It is not the work holding arrangement but the "main spindle axis" which determines the x axis.
Dick
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ellis Cory" wrote:
Warren wrote........Tell me if I should change my thinking......
No, you are correct for a milling machine. The problem comes with so many layouts of modern CNC maching centres. That is why the workholding arrangement was chosen as the point of reference.
Cheers.
Ellis
|
Hey guys I have an 2002 HF 7 by 10 that I was thinking of getting the LMS 14 in. bed and doing all the mods you can do with it, BUT giveing all the costs that will come up with it, would I be better off leaveing it as is and getting a 9 by 16 I want to be able to do finer work then old bettsie does altho its not bad ,the limits kinds put well a limit on you and now that I have lots of time (hope I do) I want more room to play thanks ED
|
Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
I've been using my HF 7x10 for nearly25 years. It is now fitted with a 3C
collet closer I made, and I use if for stuff that has to stay concentric,
even though taken out of the spindle & replaced when making different cuts.
True, it lacks torque at low speeds, but I never use it at low speeds, as it
shines best with small diameter work, anyway. If I had to turn a 6.5"
flywheel, I'd use the crank. Or the 12x36.
Mert
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Robert Furmanak
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2013 10:00 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
I agree with your advice. I started out with a cheap Harbor Freight
(Seig) 7x10 , and upgraded it as I increased my skills and interest in
machining. For small diameter work, they are not bad machines, and they can
be a real bargain if you are within driving distance of a Harbor Freight
store, and you have a 20% off coupon. They are store stock items, so you
can actually see it, rather than buying sight unseen.
Currently, the HF 7x10 is on sale for $499. A 20% off coupon brings that
down to $399. If you pick it up, shipping costs are zero. Even though it
is a small lathe, that is an attractive offer for the budget minded who is
otherwise looking at around $900 for an LMS, Micro Mark, or Big Dog lathe
including shipping.
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]
On Behalf Of gerry waclawiak
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2013 9:15 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
Bob and others looking to buy a 7x lathe
I would not just write off any of the older lathes for the "new kid on the
block" the new top of the line Sieg type with new motor and control
technology,as sold by LMS and others. Whilst it is true that they are the
best so far and that power is more than adequate at all speeds they are
otherwise little different in design, fit and finish to all the other models
that went before them and that means weaknesses as well as strengths.
As they are sold at a premium price and have limited availability this
will undoubtedly mean a hefty shipping bill for many prospective purchasers
compared with a "lesser" model that can be bought at discount locally and
collected it might well be that they work out a great deal more expensive.
When the 7x mini-lathes first appeared the motor power of 250-300W
sometimes something of an issue, especially with large diameter parts at low
speeds, but the motors have steadily increased in power over the years and
seem to range from 350-550 depending on the vendor and model, still not as
good as the new motor Sieg (500W but higher torque) but a definite
improvement and likely to satisfy most people.
Here in the UK the premium for the new Sieg is the equivalent of $300 and
I have read it can run to that in he US too, depending on offers etc. If you
want the extra power and money is not an issue then the Sieg is the best of
the crop, but for those on a budget, who are a little less demanding or are
not averse to taking things a little slower then one of the older could make
a very good purchase and leave you change for extra tooling and accessories.
There is also of course the opportunity to look at the used market as well.
Gerry W
Leeds UK
_____________________________
> To: 7x12minilathe@...
> From: clevinski@...
> Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2013 11:47:27 +0000
> Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
>
>
> < br>> Bob,
>
> I've had a Real Bull 7x14 with gear box since May, and I love it. It
> did come with quite an accessory package, including a 4" 3-jaw chuck,
> (which is standard if you buy it from Big Dog), steady and follower
> rests, metal main transmission gears (not all of them), tails stock
> drill chuck, live center and dead center. I really liked the
> accessories (though I have not yet used the follower rest) and I
> especially liked the 4" chuck and metal gears.
>
> Just my two cents...
>
> Charlie
>
> --- In
> 7x12minilathe@... ,
> "bob_guenthner" wrote:
> >
> >
> > Had a response from one of the eBay sellers that the Real Bull lathe
> does have a high/low gear box. It's still a possibility depending on
> what a follower ans steady rest would cost me.
> >
> > Bob
> > --- In
> 7x12minilathe@... ,
> "bob_guenthner" wrote:
> > >
> > > I would like a larger lathe, but space and money are the limiting
> factor. I do have access at work to a South Bend, I don't know the
> exact size, but it's probably a 12 x 60 and an older South Bend that's
> about 36 inches long. The problem is I work for the federal government
> and most people at work wouldn't like it too much if I had a rifle
> barrel or action chucked up in the lathe. I can do most of the work I
> need to do on a 7x14, but could possibly sneak in some time on the work
> lathes if I had to on a weekend.
> > >
> > > Bob
> > >
> > > --- In
> 7x12minilathe@... ,
> "Tony Smith" wrote:
> > > >
> > > > ; > Not sure of the price range you guys are looking at,but at
> 1150.00 my 10x22
> > > > > from grizzly is several times the lathe that the 7x12 it
> replaced. I lost the 7x12 to
> > > > > thieves last winter, and got the 10x22 as I kept seeing the 7x14
> for around
> > > > > $800+ with a bit less than what the 10x22 came with. The wife
> wasn't so happy
> > > > > with the extra cost, but now that i'm getting used to the bigger
> I'm glad I got it. It
> > > > > comes with 5" 3 jaw, 6" four jaw chuck, face plate, steady rest,
> follow rest, mt4
> > > > > center, mt3 center, plus a little tool box to hold the tools in
> till you get a bench
> > > > > made. I still miss the 7x12 tho, it was my first lathe and I
> had lots of fun learning
> > > > > with it.
> > > > > Dennis
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > It is indeed several times the lathe:
>
;
>
010x22%20LATHE/100_4028_edited.jpg
> > > >
> > > > (that's a 7x10, but close enough).
> > > >
> > > > Tony
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
|
Yes,you are the one,I could not?remember?your last name,my yahoo mail went on the blink and i emptied all my e mails to solve the memory problem,which it did not,the problem was in my security files. Nice to see you on the postings again Charlie take care John L Spain.
From: CLevinski
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, February 8, 2013 12:38 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Charlie?
?
Hello, John,
Assuming I'm the Charlie you're referring to (a little presumptuous on
my part since you made such nice comments!), I'm still here. I spent
virtually the entire month of January traveling on business, including
my weekends, and wasn't even able to get downstairs to my shop until
this week. Hopefully that won't happen again. As a result, I've been
reading the digest emails but not posting.
Thanks for thinking of me; everything is OK and I should be
participating more now that the January travel craziness is over!
Best regards,
Charlie
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Lindo wrote:
>
> Does anybody know what's happened to Charlie?
> Hope you are OK if you are reading this.
> You are always so full of enthusiasm and politeness.
> Are you there? You are in our thoughts
>
> Regards
> The group.
> J L
>
|
Hi Dick,
Now you are really confusing me. In message 69578 you said the on a lathe the Z axis was the long axis parallel to the lathe bed and also the spindle axis.
Now you tell me that the spindle axis determine the x axis.
Which is correct.
Mike
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Dick" wrote:
Ellis,
It is not the work holding arrangement but the "main spindle axis" which determines the x axis.
Dick
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ellis Cory" wrote:
Warren wrote........Tell me if I should change my thinking......
No, you are correct for a milling machine. The problem comes with so many layouts of modern CNC maching centres. That is why the workholding arrangement was chosen as the point of reference.
Cheers.
Ellis
|
Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
I agree with your advice.? I started out with a cheap Harbor Freight (Seig) 7x10 , and upgraded it as I increased my skills and interest in machining. ?For small diameter work, they are not bad machines, and they can be a real bargain if you are within driving distance of a Harbor Freight store, and you have a 20% off coupon.? They are store stock items, so you can actually see it, rather than buying sight unseen.? Currently, the HF 7x10 is on sale for $499.? A 20% off coupon brings that down to $399.? If you pick it up, shipping costs are zero.? Even though it is a small lathe, that is an attractive offer for the budget minded who is otherwise looking at around $900 for an LMS, Micro Mark, or Big Dog lathe including shipping. ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of gerry waclawiak
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2013 9:15 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?? ? Bob and others looking to buy a 7x lathe
I would not just write off any of the older lathes for the "new kid on the block" the new top of the line Sieg type with new motor and control technology,as sold by LMS and others. Whilst it is true that they are the best so far and that power is more than adequate at all speeds they are otherwise little different in design, fit and finish to all the other models that went before them and that means weaknesses as well as strengths.
As they are sold at a premium price and have limited availability this will undoubtedly mean a hefty shipping bill for many prospective purchasers compared with a "lesser" model that can be bought at discount locally and collected it might well be that they work out a great deal more expensive.
When the 7x mini-lathes first appeared the motor power of 250-300W sometimes something of an issue, especially with large diameter parts at low speeds, but the motors have steadily increased in power over the years and seem to range from 350-550 depending on the vendor and model, still not as good as the new motor Sieg (500W but higher torque) but a definite improvement and likely to satisfy most people.
Here in the UK the premium for the new Sieg is the equivalent of $300 and I have read it can run to that in he US too, depending on offers etc. If you want the extra power and money is not an issue then the Sieg is the best of the crop, but for those on a budget, who are a little less demanding or are not averse to taking things a little slower then one of the older could make a very good purchase and leave you change for extra tooling and accessories. There is also of course the opportunity to look at the used market as well.
Gerry W
Leeds UK
_____________________________
> To: 7x12minilathe@...
> From: clevinski@...
> Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2013 11:47:27 +0000
> Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
>
>
> < br>> Bob,
>
> I've had a Real Bull 7x14 with gear box since May, and I love it. It
> did come with quite an accessory package, including a 4" 3-jaw chuck,
> (which is standard if you buy it from Big Dog), steady and follower
> rests, metal main transmission gears (not all of them), tails stock
> drill chuck, live center and dead center. I really liked the
> accessories (though I have not yet used the follower rest) and I
> especially liked the 4" chuck and metal gears.
>
> Just my two cents...
>
> Charlie
>
> --- In
> 7x12minilathe@...>,
> "bob_guenthner" wrote:
> >
> >
> > Had a response from one of the eBay sellers that the Real Bull lathe
> does have a high/low gear box. It's still a possibility depending on
> what a follower ans steady rest would cost me.
> >
> > Bob
> > --- In
> 7x12minilathe@...>,
> "bob_guenthner" wrote:
> > >
> > > I would like a larger lathe, but space and money are the limiting
> factor. I do have access at work to a South Bend, I don't know the
> exact size, but it's probably a 12 x 60 and an older South Bend that's
> about 36 inches long. The problem is I work for the federal government
> and most people at work wouldn't like it too much if I had a rifle
> barrel or action chucked up in the lathe. I can do most of the work I
> need to do on a 7x14, but could possibly sneak in some time on the work
> lathes if I had to on a weekend.
> > >
> > > Bob
> > >
> > > --- In
> 7x12minilathe@...>,
> "Tony Smith" wrote:
> > > >
> > > > ; > Not sure of the price range you guys are looking at,but at
> 1150.00 my 10x22
> > > > > from grizzly is several times the lathe that the 7x12 it
> replaced. I lost the 7x12 to
> > > > > thieves last winter, and got the 10x22 as I kept seeing the 7x14
> for around
> > > > > $800+ with a bit less than what the 10x22 came with. The wife
> wasn't so happy
> > > > > with the extra cost, but now that i'm getting used to the bigger
> I'm glad I got it. It
> > > > > comes with 5" 3 jaw, 6" four jaw chuck, face plate, steady rest,
> follow rest, mt4
> > > > > center, mt3 center, plus a little tool box to hold the tools in
> till you get a bench
> > > > > made. I still miss the 7x12 tho, it was my first lathe and I
> had lots of fun learning
> > > > > with it.
> > > > > Dennis
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > It is indeed several times the lathe:
>
> 010x22%20LATHE/100_4028_edited.jpg<>
> > > >
> > > > (that's a 7x10, but close enough).
> > > >
> > > > Tony
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
|
Ellis,
It is not the work holding arrangement but the "main spindle axis" which determines the x axis.
Dick
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ellis Cory" wrote:
Warren wrote........Tell me if I should change my thinking......
No, you are correct for a milling machine. The problem comes with so many layouts of modern CNC maching centres. That is why the workholding arrangement was chosen as the point of reference.
Cheers.
Ellis
|
OldToolmaker
maschwiebert