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From: Jerry Durand
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2013 2:52 AM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] lathe height

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Lathe should be about elbow height...more or less to personal taste.

On 02/05/2013 05:47 PM, Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co. wrote:

I'm getting a heavy bench set up to accept my lathe. After bolting a heavy set of casters that were sized to accept the 400 pound weight I ended up with a bench that is to high to comfortably work while sitting on a stool. My question would be is there a rule of thumb 'height wise" that?I should shoot for? I don't want to cut the legs off so that the bench ends up to low.

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Thanks Mike

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.  
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype:  jerrydurand

Anyone know anything about these? Found one listed for $650 on eBay. The
description says variable speed and the seller says it has no high/low

gear box.

Just looking to see if there's anyone that knows anything about them.

Bob

The Real Bulls are slightly different to the Sieg, where different means
they have nice little extra touches.

What you're looking at is basically one of these:


The 7x lathes come in two versions; the originals like most of us have, and
then the newer (sometimes called 'Super') variants that have a better motor.
The new ones can do 50-2500 RPM without needing the Hi/Lo gear, everything
else is much the same.

Some have a shorter tailstock so you gain another inch.

Tony

From: sssfoxtampa
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: lathe height
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Wednesday, February 6, 2013, 2:40 AM

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The recommendation is that your lathe be at elbow height when standing or sitting. I've never been able to get comfortable without the frame of the table hitting the top of my legs. There isn't much room between my elbows and the tops of my legs when sitting.

Since your elbows are different heights when sitting and standing, you need to be able to adjust the table or the chair/stool. Just cutting the legs won't fix your problem.

I finally figured out that if I put the lathe on a taller table and use a drafting stool, my legs aren't at right angles so I have more room for them under the table. The lathe is higher when I am standing, but that puts it closer to my old eyes.

So, for me, higher is better.

--- In , Jerry Durand wrote:
>
> Lathe should be about elbow height...more or less to personal taste.
>
> On 02/05/2013 05:47 PM, Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co. wrote:
> > Message
> >
> > I'm getting a heavy bench set up to accept my lathe. After bolting a
> > heavy set of casters that were sized to accept the 400 pound weight I
> > ended up with a bench that is to high to comfortably work while
> > sitting on a stool. My question would be is there a rule of thumb
> > 'height wise" that I should shoot for? I don't want to cut the legs
> > off so that the bench ends up to low.
> >
> > Thanks Mike
> >
>
> --
> Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
> tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
> Skype: jerrydurand
>

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Lathe should be about elbow height...more or less to personal taste.

On 02/05/2013 05:47 PM, Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co. wrote:

Message

I'm getting a heavy bench set up to accept my lathe. After bolting a
heavy set of casters that were sized to accept the 400 pound weight I
ended up with a bench that is to high to comfortably work while
sitting on a stool. My question would be is there a rule of thumb
'height wise" that I should shoot for? I don't want to cut the legs
off so that the bench ends up to low.

Thanks Mike

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand

Would cutting oil attack the cast iron bed of a lathe?

Yep...that did it. They dont have it listed in replacement parts on their site, but Jeff there hooked me up.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "andyf1108" wrote:

It's an item from Real Bull, rather than Seig, but it is to the same specs, apart from the 100mm flange. There are several RB dealers here in the UK, but as far as I know, Amadeal is the only one offering it.

The only US supplier of RBs which ever gets mentioned on this group is Big Dog Metalworks < >. Their 7 x 14 has a 100mm chuck, and judging by the picture, the spindle has a flange to match. Maybe you could contact them to ask if they can supply the spindle.

Andy

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Thanks!

Do you think a "P" insert (11¡ã) would help? It's only 6¡ã but better than the 2 I have now.

cnc sales <gcode.fi@...> wrote:

It's an item from Real Bull, rather than Seig, but it is to the same specs, apart from the 100mm flange. There are several RB dealers here in the UK, but as far as I know, Amadeal is the only one offering it.

The only US supplier of RBs which ever gets mentioned on this group is Big Dog Metalworks < >. Their 7 x 14 has a 100mm chuck, and judging by the picture, the spindle has a flange to match. Maybe you could contact them to ask if they can supply the spindle.

Andy

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Another suggestion is to use Nichrome wire and make the resistance whatever you need. Nichrome wire is what is used to make wire wound resistors.

I have some and am willing to mail you a few cm/inches to try.

Cheers,

Andrew in Melbourne

On 05/02/13 07:21, alex4459jopiklal44 wrote:

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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "alex4459jopiklal44" wrote:

> I agree , either use a 0.022 or 4 in parallel .
> If you look at the schematic, you will see that all curent drawn is going through this resistor, and an opamp are then measuring on the current ..
> The only thing that could happen is that the motor draw a bit more before the regulator cutt out.
>
> it would be close to 12 percent more..if they are spot on value.. therefore choose 5% or better ,in tollerance.
>
> to be on the safe side, you could choose a 0.033 .,but if there is room for 4 , maybe 2watt then I would choose this solution with four 0.1 R
> alex
>

I think ,now after looking at the schematic again, that it is best to get as close as possible to the original value,,that is 4 times 0.1 ohm parallel = 0.025 ohm ,as said from others.

there is a CL adjust in conection to the resistor ,guess this is current limit..it look as it turn the regulation to zero when max current is exceeded.. There are another path through an adjustment marked IR ,witch I think is current- regulation.. it end at the same point where the speed potmeter goes. so it must be a regulation to keep the moment steady ,when motor is loaded..
alex

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From: Mark Schwiebert
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.

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John; Did you cut down the scale for your DRO ? I cut off a cheap Caliper,an it no longer read right. What is in the scale,that makes them work ? --- On Tue, 2/5/13, Don Leitch wrote: From: Don Leitch Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away. To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...> Date: Tuesday, February 5, 2013, 8:56 AM ? thanks I will check out our local scrap man again I checked for Ali bar, ended up,with off cuts from engineers jobbing shops, stainless probably easy NZ being a marine area. brass very expensive here. Don? On 5/02/2013, at 9:33 PM, John Lindo <> wrote: ? It is brass. I repair musical instruments and a collection of brass stock is always useful. We go around scrap yards and collect old brass pieces at swap meets etc,also have some good stockists around here. Stainless or exotic material very hard to find here. even made a push on/pop off gear?adapter?from an old radiator valve. Brass is so easy to machine and braze. Best regards John From: Don Leitch <> To: Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 9:22 AM Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away. ? John out of interest what's your light source in the photos, they all have a look like made from brass, I notice it in many of your photos? Maybe a bright incandescent light bulb. Don zl1atb ? From: [] On Behalf Of John Lindo Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 7:52 p.m. To: Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away. ? ? A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch. I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch i?returned?to find it had??melted the some of the push buttons. I was?devastated,immediately rang??Hugh of Amadeal and he just so happened to have a spare DRO and shipped one out. I might add at a very reasonable price and delivery as normal.again many thanks Hugh. My motto Don't throw anything away,and turn off everything when not in use. The old DRO sat in my drawer for over a year and I decided to try repair it one day. I used a scalpel and carefully cut the melted areas around the buttons,dis-assembled the unit it and got it to work. but not all the buttons, the on/off ,metric/inch after some carefull surgery worked.that's all I wanted. Not really keen on the graduated dial and depth markings on the tailstock,I decided to use the old DRO and attach it to the tailstock with a knocked up bracket and clamp I had from some scrap pieces. You will note that the bottom half of the DRO has tape around,that covers the battery cap that was totally melted. If I need to change batteries,I just undo the tape and swap them over,and re-tape. Also keeps any chips from? going inside it.The DRO works fine now. ? You will also note from the photo's on the top of the tailstock and extra brass thumbscrew. I had some rotational play from the original quill locator pin and slot. So machined into the original quill square slot a new groove with a 4 mm ball end mill,just slightly deeper than 2 mm and sitting under the thumbscrew is a 4 mm ball bearing.re tapping the original thread to 5 mm using a 4.2 mm tapping drill and made a new thumbscrew. The sideways motion has now gone away. Last photo is of the replacement DRO in its operating pocket on the mill. ? Hope this was of interest.Don't throw anything away,but I need a larger playroom,just had one built,still not big enough. ? John L ?

One thing you have to watch for is holidays, they tend to shut everything down for major holidays.? In theory they got my package out before leaving for New Years...I have a FedEx tracking number and hope FedEx in China doesn't shut down until after the box has left the country.