Date

Re: (unknown)

MERTON B BAKER
 

Yep, & we'll need telepathic powers to figure out what.
Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Mark Schwiebert
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2013 9:06 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] (unknown)

Something is loose.

--- On Sun, 2/3/13, MERTON B BAKER wrote:

From: MERTON B BAKER
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] (unknown)
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Sunday, February 3, 2013, 12:08 AM

Same toolbit?

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From:
[mailto:]On Behalf Of Bill
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2013 5:04 PM
To:
Subject: [7x12minilathe] (unknown)

Hi I just set up a new micro- mark 7x16 mini lathe I also have a 7 x10
harbor freight mini lathe the micro- mark is chattering on me even on light
cuts if I use same setup on my harbor freight no chatter at all? Can someone
help me I have no idea why?

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

MERTON B BAKER
 

Swapping switches is a simple soldering job if you know how to work on circuit boards.� The TS camlocksI made for my 7x lathes work very well, and I'm sure the LMS ones will, too.� LMS is a very reliable bunch.
Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Exibar
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 12:05 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

HI All!

������ I've been making some parts lately and have had some luck selling them as well.�� Enough to buy some new hop-ups for my 7x12 Cummings lathe :-)

My F/O/R switch is acting up, and I'm thinking that I'd rather have a rotary type switch instead of a toggle, like the one that's on the micromark 7x14... anyone make this swap?���� I'll probably just wind up going with a stock replacement, unless the swap is easy?

I'm also thinking about a Tailstock cam lock kit.�� I see LMS has them for $30...�� Does the cam lock kit rally get the tailstock clamped down tight enough so it doesn't move?�� will installing this kit throw off he alignment of the Tailstock?�� My TS is perfectly aligned right now, I really dont' want to go through that trouble again of lining it back up... or worse I really don't want it to be thrown out of alignment higher or lower :-(

thanks!

�� Mike B


Re: Horsepower Resistor

 

I am trying to by a .025 plugin horsepower resistor for a KBCL-240D
board.I
found some on US ebay for $5 but postage to Australia is $26.
Is there some place that sells these with reasonable postage to Australia.
I have probably missed the obvious.
Cheers and thanks for your help.

Just unsolder the old one from the board, Jaycar etc will sell you a new
resistor (5W IIRC) for under 50 cents.

Jaycar won't have the 0.025 ohm one, 0.022 will be their closest (5%
tolerance). Farnell or RS will sell you a 1% or 2% version if you really
need it. (I have my doubts they're 1% ones anyway.)

Tony


Re: Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools

MERTON B BAKER
 

I was lucky that way, having taken Machine tool Lab at tufts in order to
avoid flunking Math 2, and the first thing taught there was "How to grind
your own lathe toolbits." We were all given a #" long piece of 3/8" sq HRS,
& told to grind the same shape on each end as was shown in prints in the
textbook. With that accomplished, we were given a grade, (I got A) and a
1/4" HSS tool blank, told to make a real lathe tool, and never to complain
if it didn't cut well when we were using the lathes. I still have mine, and
used the same teaching method when, long afterward I was given the metal
shop class in the HS where I was teaching Physics, the regular shop teacher
having quit. Toolbit grinding is a basic skill for making things on engine
lathes like the 7xs. The size for which they are best adapted is the 8mm,
or 5/16" one. While it is true that ready formed toolbits are available,
they cost 5-10 times what the blanks do, and money is useful for many other
things. Those with an understanding of spatial relations plus a good 6"
grinder can easily pick up the skill to grind toolbits, and I have taught
many, many others, who lacked this talent, to be skilled toolbit grinders.
That, however, is another story, & "Mert's toolbit grinding course, with
text & visual aids" is available off list. Fair warning, it is not free.
I'm below the poverty line, despite having bought all my toys when I wasn't.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of
cptwinderatgmaildotcom
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2013 7:17 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools


When I purchased my lathe, I also purchased a few sets of cutting tools:





The first ones, the carbide, are completely junk. None of the angles are
correct. It is almost like the carbide was brazed on upside down.

I have had decent luck with the HSS cutters in the second set. However, they
are so small 1/8", you have to use the holders. The holders cause the cutter
tip to be a significant distance from the tool post decreasing rigidity.

Does anyone else use the tinny cutters and if so what holders do you use?

Thanks,

Jeremy



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Horsepower Resistor

 

I'm reasonably familiar with KB's website, Den, having used it to find UK distributors.

If all else fails, you could make one up yourself. Ceramic cased, 0.1 ohm 10 watt wirewound resistors seem pretty readily available, and four of those in parallel would give you 0.025 ohms. They would handle 40W, which is probably an unecessarily high rating for the job, but there's no harm in that.

Andy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Den Strods wrote:

That was quick.
Thanks for your effort, I will ring them in the morning.
Cheers


Re: Horsepower Resistor

Den Strods
 

That was quick.
Thanks for your effort, I will ring them in the morning.
Cheers


Re: Horsepower Resistor

 

The "dealer finder" on the KB Electronics website shows a single distributor in Australia:

Country/Area: Australia
City: Seven Hills, NSW
Name: ABB Australia Pty Limited
Phone: 02-9674-5455
Fax: 02-9674-2495
E-mail: sales.au@...
Web Site: www.Baldor.com.au
Product Line(s): AC & DC Drives
Stocking: This is a stocking distributor

Andy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Den" wrote:

I am trying to by a .025 plugin horsepower resistor for a KBCL-240D board.I found some on US ebay for $5 but postage to Australia is $26.
Is there some place that sells these with reasonable postage to Australia.
I have probably missed the obvious.
Cheers and thanks for your help.


Horsepower Resistor

Den
 

I am trying to by a .025 plugin horsepower resistor for a KBCL-240D board.I found some on US ebay for $5 but postage to Australia is $26.
Is there some place that sells these with reasonable postage to Australia.
I have probably missed the obvious.
Cheers and thanks for your help.


Re: tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

 

Mike wrote....... I did not use a camlock, instead I made another nut higher than the original and drilled and tapped in several places for a lever handle.......
I didn't make a camlock. I used a ring spanner, the type with an angle to the handle for hand clearance. Used upside down, it does the job perfectly, clearing the compound slide and staying in place.
Cheers.
Ellis


Re: Newb question about using the apron hand wheel.

 

The SIEG and I believe the Real Bull 7x machines, with their default 20/80/20/80 (A, B, C, D) fine feed gears installed, works out to a whopping 256-tpi for power feed. This is all assuming a U.S version 7x with the 16-tpi leadscrew.

Anyway, 1 / 256 = ~.0039" advance of the tool per revolution of the workpiece. So round up and call it .004" tool advance per workpiece revolution.

Theoretically, if a super sharply pointed threading tool were very lightly applied in this "fine feed" mode, with a depth of cut (DOC) of perhaps lets say .002" or something, you could then take a good thick magnifying glass and see this super fine & shallow 256 tpi "thread" that is cut in fine feed mode.

To make those tiny grooves go away you'd need a rounded tip turning tool that is at least equal to or wider than that .004" spacing per revolution. Shave off the peaks between the valleys, so to speak.

Luckily, .004" is not exactly huge even on the older most underpowered 7x mini-lathes, and a number of people have ground various configurations of rounded tip turning tools that give a pretty darn good finish. It is late as I type this so I welcome anyone who wishes to to add please links to good examples of good home ground smooth turning tools designed for these 7x machines.

Another path I've seen taken is to add a really slow gear motor to the end of the leadscrew - (the normally driven end of the leadscrew is left in neutral or is otherwise disconnected from the change gears, and the right end is then driven very very slowly along with a gear motor. I know came up with a super fine feed version this way. (Scroll down the page and look for the photos with the gear motor on the right hand end of the leadscrew). This goes independently of spindle speed, so he reports a super fine almost polished look by going this way. Very slow, very patient, exceedingly fine, fine feed is possible.

Then of course there is simply going very slowly along with the hand wheel, or adding a hand wheel to the end of the leadscrew where Varmint Al has the gear motor. Knowing that one full turn of the leadscrew = 1/16" can make for some carefully measured spacing & placement of the lathe cutting tool, as well. Precise even.

And that is about everything I can think of on that subject at about 2:30 am after a long Saturday. :-)

Cheers,
John Z., York, Pa. USA.

On 2/3/2013 1:23 AM, michael kolchins wrote:

When ever possible use the power feed and make sure the cutter is ground sharp and the leading edge honed.Take a stone,diamond stick or whatever use use for honing and round the sharp point you ground for a better finish. I won't go into the various cutter configurations. You can find them on the web,LMS, Sherline Tools ,or just google lathe tools.You can get a mirror finish on most metals if the cutter is ground correctly,correct speed, etc.
mike


From: Jeremy Winder
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, February 2, 2013 6:17 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Newb question about using the apron hand wheel.

I want to thank everyone for the input. I went out today and practiced using the apron wheel. It is a lot harder to get a mirror like finish then the compound slide. But I did discover I can make good cuts by turn the wheel itself instead of the handle. More practice is needed. A lot more practice.

Thanks again,

Jeremy



Re: tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

 

Can't help with the switch but might help with the tailstock. I did not use a camlock, instead I made another nut higher than the original and drilled and tapped in several places for a lever handle. I made the nut about 1" high I think,I'm not near the shop to look at it.Then tightened the nut and marked it for where I wanted to have the handle.I drilled and tapped for 1/4-20 thread at my mark and also another at the left and right of the first tapped hole. The second and third tapped holes were for just in case I might need them to tighten or loosen the tail stock.This worked well for me so I did the same thing on my larger lathe,10x22.You won't need to touch the tail stock ,just make the tall nut and lever handle. You can use round stock or hex stock which I used.Round stock would need at least two flats milled so a wrench can be used if needed.I can only think of a couple of times I needed to use the wrench to tighten the tail stock. Both times I was drilling a large bore in aluminum bronze and the tail stock slipped a bit.
mike


From: Exibar
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Sunday, February 3, 2013 12:05 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

HI All!
I've been making some parts lately and have had some luck selling them as well. Enough to buy some new hop-ups for my 7x12 Cummings lathe :-)
My F/O/R switch is acting up, and I'm thinking that I'd rather have a rotary type switch instead of a toggle, like the one that's on the micromark 7x14... anyone make this swap? I'll probably just wind up going with a stock replacement, unless the swap is easy?
I'm also thinking about a Tailstock cam lock kit. I see LMS has them for $30... Does the cam lock kit rally get the tailstock clamped down tight enough so it doesn't move? will installing this kit throw off he alignment of the Tailstock? My TS is perfectly aligned right now, I really dont' want to go through that trouble again of lining it back up... or worse I really don't want it to be thrown out of alignment higher or lower :-(
thanks!
Mike B



Re: Newb question about using the apron hand wheel.

 

When ever possible use the power feed and make sure the cutter is ground sharp and the leading edge honed.Take a stone,diamond stick or whatever use use for honing and round the sharp point you ground for a better finish. I won't go into the various cutter configurations. You can find them on the web,LMS, Sherline Tools ,or just google lathe tools.You can get a mirror finish on most metals if the cutter is ground correctly,correct speed, etc.
mike


From: Jeremy Winder
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, February 2, 2013 6:17 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Newb question about using the apron hand wheel.

I want to thank everyone for the input. I went out today and practiced using the apron wheel. It is a lot harder to get a mirror like finish then the compound slide. But I did discover I can make good cuts by turn the wheel itself instead of the handle. More practice is needed. A lot more practice.

Thanks again,

Jeremy



tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

 

HI All!

I've been making some parts lately and have had some luck selling them as well. Enough to buy some new hop-ups for my 7x12 Cummings lathe :-)

My F/O/R switch is acting up, and I'm thinking that I'd rather have a rotary type switch instead of a toggle, like the one that's on the micromark 7x14... anyone make this swap? I'll probably just wind up going with a stock replacement, unless the swap is easy?

I'm also thinking about a Tailstock cam lock kit. I see LMS has them for $30... Does the cam lock kit rally get the tailstock clamped down tight enough so it doesn't move? will installing this kit throw off he alignment of the Tailstock? My TS is perfectly aligned right now, I really dont' want to go through that trouble again of lining it back up... or worse I really don't want it to be thrown out of alignment higher or lower :-(

thanks!

Mike B


Re: Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools

 

I second the QCTP setup.... I got one last year and I honestly don't know what I'd be doing without it right now....

From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Jim Dunmyer
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2013 8:42 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools

Jeremy,

Do yourself a huge favor and get a QCTP setup from LMS. See: for their selection; I don’t know which one you need right offhand, but they’re very helpful if you ask. While you’re at it, buy a few HSS toolbits and grind them according to your needs.

<>

Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2013 7:16 PM

Subject: [7x12minilathe] Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools

When I purchased my lathe, I also purchased a few sets of cutting tools:





The first ones, the carbide, are completely junk. None of the angles are correct. It is almost like the carbide was brazed on upside down.

I have had decent luck with the HSS cutters in the second set. However, they are so small 1/8", you have to use the holders. The holders cause the cutter tip to be a significant distance from the tool post decreasing rigidity.

Does anyone else use the tinny cutters and if so what holders do you use?

Thanks,

Jeremy


Re: Newb question about using the apron hand wheel.

stephendyahn
 

I sometimes hold the wheel with both hands!

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jeremy Winder wrote:

I want to thank everyone for the input. I went out today and practiced
using the apron wheel. It is a lot harder to get a mirror like finish then
the compound slide. But I did discover I can make good cuts by turn the
wheel itself instead of the handle. More practice is needed. A lot more
practice.

Thanks again,

Jeremy


Re: Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools

 

With a QCTP holder, I took a piece of 5/16" keystock and milled an 1/8" groove:



After I did that, I saw on one of my favorite sites the guy did a similar thing:


Lot of cool stuff on his page.

his is a guy that uses his shop for a living so he fairly prolific in ideas and gizzmos

For instance those Aloris asian knock off cut-off toolholders for the QCTP:





Roy wrote:

Most of the cheap brazed carbide stuff is junk! It's frequently salvageable with a little grinding to improve the relief angles. Still, it'll have a 0� rake angle, so, it plows rather than cuts.

The stock lathe supposedly is intended for 8mm tool bits, 5/16" is close, 1/4" with shims is easier. There's a JWE mod to relocate the top slide pivot to improve rigidity - I did it years ago & have been pleased with it.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "cptwinderatgmaildotcom" wrote:

When I purchased my lathe, I also purchased a few sets of cutting tools:





The first ones, the carbide, are completely junk. None of the angles are correct. It is almost like the carbide was brazed on upside down.

I have had decent luck with the HSS cutters in the second set. However, they are so small 1/8", you have to use the holders. The holders cause the cutter tip to be a significant distance from the tool post decreasing rigidity.
Does anyone else use the tinny cutters and if so what holders do you use?

Thanks,

Jeremy




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





Re: (unknown)

 

Something is loose.


--- On Sun, 2/3/13, MERTON B BAKER wrote:

From: MERTON B BAKER
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] (unknown)
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Sunday, February 3, 2013, 12:08 AM

Same toolbit?

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From:
[mailto:]On Behalf Of Bill
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2013 5:04 PM
To:
Subject: [7x12minilathe] (unknown)

Hi I just set up a new micro- mark 7x16 mini lathe I also have a 7 x10
harbor freight mini lathe the micro- mark is chattering on me even on light
cuts if I use same setup on my harbor freight no chatter at all? Can someone
help me I have no idea why?

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools

 

All the brazed carbide cutters ,need to be sharpened before using.
you will not regret buyIng a QCTP.
Buy some decent USA made HSS tool bits,and grind them yourself. You can have any shape you want.


--- On Sun, 2/3/13, Jim Dunmyer wrote:

From: Jim Dunmyer
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Sunday, February 3, 2013, 1:42 AM

Jeremy,
Do yourself a huge favor and get a QCTP setup from LMS. See: for their selection; I don’t know which one you need right offhand, but they’re very helpful if you ask. While you’re at it, buy a few HSS toolbits and grind them according to your needs.
<>
From:
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2013 7:16 PM
To:
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools
When I purchased my lathe, I also purchased a few sets of cutting tools:





The first ones, the carbide, are completely junk. None of the angles are correct. It is almost like the carbide was brazed on upside down.

I have had decent luck with the HSS cutters in the second set. However, they are so small 1/8", you have to use the holders. The holders cause the cutter tip to be a significant distance from the tool post decreasing rigidity.

Does anyone else use the tinny cutters and if so what holders do you use?

Thanks,

Jeremy


Re: Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools

 

Most of the cheap brazed carbide stuff is junk! It's frequently salvageable with a little grinding to improve the relief angles. Still, it'll have a 0° rake angle, so, it plows rather than cuts.

The stock lathe supposedly is intended for 8mm tool bits, 5/16" is close, 1/4" with shims is easier. There's a JWE mod to relocate the top slide pivot to improve rigidity - I did it years ago & have been pleased with it.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "cptwinderatgmaildotcom" wrote:

When I purchased my lathe, I also purchased a few sets of cutting tools:





The first ones, the carbide, are completely junk. None of the angles are correct. It is almost like the carbide was brazed on upside down.

I have had decent luck with the HSS cutters in the second set. However, they are so small 1/8", you have to use the holders. The holders cause the cutter tip to be a significant distance from the tool post decreasing rigidity.

Does anyone else use the tinny cutters and if so what holders do you use?

Thanks,

Jeremy


Re: Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools

Jim Dunmyer
 

Jeremy,
Do yourself a huge favor and get a QCTP setup from LMS. See: for their selection; I don’t know which one you need right offhand, but they’re very helpful if you ask. While you’re at it, buy a few HSS toolbits and grind them according to your needs.
<

Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2013 7:16 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools

When I purchased my lathe, I also purchased a few sets of cutting tools:





The first ones, the carbide, are completely junk. None of the angles are correct. It is almost like the carbide was brazed on upside down.

I have had decent luck with the HSS cutters in the second set. However, they are so small 1/8", you have to use the holders. The holders cause the cutter tip to be a significant distance from the tool post decreasing rigidity.

Does anyone else use the tinny cutters and if so what holders do you use?

Thanks,

Jeremy