----- Original Message -----

From: markust74

To: 7x12minilathe@...

Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2012 6:57 AM

Subject: [7x12minilathe] Centering large stock

?

I am working on a 3/4 SS 303 rod and trying to get it centered in the chuck of my HF 7x
mini lathe, and it seems to always be off a little. I used my mag base dial
caliper and can get it close but not close enough. Any ideas on this?
The rod is 4".
I have a QCTP, steady rest, and follower rest on the way from littlemachineshop
but need ideas until they get here please.
Thanks
Mark

I had the same problem with my cross slide of my South Bend 9", I'm also
going to do the same with my 7X12. I took the advice of Geo Thomas (It
was either him or Guy Lutard) & drilled & pinned the gib. What you have
is the gib is sliding ever so slightly back & forth & with the set screw
points riding the dimple pockets in the side of the gib, it slides until
it rides up the point of the set screw & tightens up. Once I pinned it,
I've lost that problem. I used a 1/8" spring pin. I drilled the hole
completely through the right side of my cross slide & through the gib
about ?" in from the front. Make sure to back your cross slide out
toward you so it sticks out enough that you don't drill into the part on
the saddle. You will need to disassemble it all once done & de-bur it
all. If you need more info I can look in the books & find the article &
email you a scan of it.

Dave



-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Exibar
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2012 4:58 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] problem with gibs...


my cross slide is either too tight to move (more or less) or too
loose....
I can't seem to get the right combination using the set screws.... I'm
thinking that maybe there is a tweak or two that I can do?

anyone have any thoughts or guidance?

thanks!
Mike B

I had the same problem with my cross slide of my South Bend 9", I'm

going to do the same with my 7X12. I took the advice of Geo Thomas (It
was either him or Guy Lutard) & drilled & pinned the gib. What you

is the gib is sliding ever so slightly back & forth & with the set

points riding the dimple pockets in the side of the gib, it slides

it rides up the point of the set screw & tightens up. Once I pinned

I've lost that problem. I used a 1/8" spring pin. I drilled the hole
completely through the right side of my cross slide & through the gib
about ?" in from the front. Make sure to back your cross slide out
toward you so it sticks out enough that you don't drill into the part

the saddle. You will need to disassemble it all once done & de-bur it
all. If you need more info I can look in the books & find the article

email you a scan of it.

Dave



-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...

[mailto:7x12minilathe@...

Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2012 4:58 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...

Subject: [7x12minilathe] problem with gibs...


my cross slide is either too tight to move (more or less) or too
loose....
I can't seem to get the right combination using the set screws.... I'm
thinking that maybe there is a tweak or two that I can do?

anyone have any thoughts or guidance?

thanks!
Mike B

I had the same problem with my cross slide of my South Bend 9", I'm also
going to do the same with my 7X12. I took the advice of Geo Thomas (It
was either him or Guy Lutard) & drilled & pinned the gib. What you have
is the gib is sliding ever so slightly back & forth & with the set screw
points riding the dimple pockets in the side of the gib, it slides until
it rides up the point of the set screw & tightens up. Once I pinned it,
I've lost that problem. I used a 1/8" spring pin. I drilled the hole
completely through the right side of my cross slide & through the gib
about ?" in from the front. Make sure to back your cross slide out
toward you so it sticks out enough that you don't drill into the part on
the saddle. You will need to disassemble it all once done & de-bur it
all. If you need more info I can look in the books & find the article &
email you a scan of it.

Dave



-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Exibar
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2012 4:58 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] problem with gibs...


my cross slide is either too tight to move (more or less) or too
loose....
I can't seem to get the right combination using the set screws.... I'm
thinking that maybe there is a tweak or two that I can do?

anyone have any thoughts or guidance?

thanks!
Mike B

To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: mertbaker@...
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2012 07:03:24 -0500
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] new Grizzly 7x12



All my 7x lathe ran perfectly well right out of the box after minimal
cleanup. FWIW.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>]On
Behalf Of paul.consolini
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2012 11:07 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [7x12minilathe] new Grizzly 7x12

In the process of cleaning up my new Grizzly 7x12.
Expected all sorts of tuning/polishing/lapping would be necessary after
reading all the 'guides" on the net.
Pleasantly surprised though - found all the gibs to be nicely polished, all
the dovetails the same, and even a grommet where the lead screw enters the
control box to keep out chips! Also found that the compound slide nut is
steel not brass like most of the sites show. Wonder if that will help with
the backlash? (shouldn't wear like brass at least).

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

?

I have 'em someplace in my files. I'll give a hunt for 'em and see if I
can't email you a copy. You'll have noticed that the to slide goes on the
cross slide with a sort of round dovetail, and three cone pointed screws
lock it in place? Essentially, you cop the top slide socket for this
dovetail on the big end of the street elbow, and copy the dovetail itself on
the small end. Thus, the elbow, drilled & tapped for the locking screws
goes on the cross slide where the top slide went, and the top slide clamps
on the other end of the elbow just like it did on the cross slide. This
round dovetail arrangement is not found on other lathes, and this trick
works well & elegantly on the 618, but not on any other, to my knowledge.
The one I made for my 7x12 is nowhere near as neat. Pic of that one is on
file, & I can send it along if you want. Off list, direct. The list does
not allow attachments.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...

[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Dick
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2012 1:00 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: New Micro Lux 7x16 lathe

Mert,
Do you happen to know where I could find those plans?
Dick

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "MERTON B BAKER" <mertbaker@...>
wrote:
>
> I bought an Atlas 618 some year ago, for scrap price, and refurbished it.
> It was a very nice little machine, but as the previous owner never tried
to
> cut threads with it, he lost the change gears. Having 4 thread cutting
> lathes in use already, I sold the 618, all nicely rehabbed & painted, for
> about 6 times what I pad for it. I think you made a wise choice. There's
> an interesting idea out there for making a milling attachment for it out
of
> a cast iron pipe street elbow. You can make the whole thing right on that
> lathe. I made a similar one for my 7x12, but with a pipe Tee, but the way
> the Atlas is designed, the elbow is far more elegant.
>
> Mert
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 7x12minilathe@...
> [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of gormanao
> Sent: Monday, November 05, 2012 11:22 PM
> To: 7x12minilathe@...
> Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: New Micro Lux 7x16 lathe
>
>
> With the 20% off sale last month I was just about to buy one of these, but
> ended up with an Atlas/Craftsman 6X18 instead- as usual the tooling
package
> cinched the deal. I've been very happy with various brushless motors I've
> used, and that seems to be a big plus.
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

?

We switched from coal gas (carbon monoxide) when I was a kid in New
Jersey, that would have been the early 1960s. I remember the gas
company had to come in and change the jets in our stove and water heater.

In the house before that we heated with actual coal, so no jets there. :)

As fas as I know everyone in the USA uses "natural gas" (methane) now.

On 11/20/2012 04:18 AM, MERTON B BAKER wrote:
> City gas in black iron pipe is about as inexpensive a way to stay warm that
> there is. It's made from coal though, and thus not politically correct.
> Some cities have shut down their coal gas plants, and gone to natural gas,
> which right now is getting even cheaper. Glad to hear you're OK, and to
> learn about the size of Staten Island, even though I've seen maps, and
> should have noticed.
>
> Mert
>
>

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand

City gas in black iron pipe is about as inexpensive a way to stay warm that
there is. It's made from coal though, and thus not politically correct.
Some cities have shut down their coal gas plants, and gone to natural gas,
which right now is getting even cheaper. Glad to hear you're OK, and to
learn about the size of Staten Island, even though I've seen maps, and
should have noticed.

Mert

Gas lines today are frequently made of copper pipe. Actually, soft
tubing.
In the olden days, the lines were iron pipe with threaded fittings. In
house fires, things collapse, and steel & iron pipe sometimes breaks.
Copper sometimes melts. Pressure tanks can fail when the heat softens the
steel, (Steel loses half it's strength at 500 deg) heat raises the
pressure
inside adding to the likelihood of a burst tank. High winds can collapse
buildings, breaking gas pipes. any spark can then set off a fire or an
explosion. Evidently you are situated high enuf to have avoided the
destruction on Staten Island. I hope so, anyway.

Mert



-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Michael Taglieri
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2012 12:16 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera
cable releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?")


If threaded steel pipe is used for gas, does that make houses safer? I
live
in NYC, and a magazine story about the recent hurricane here said that
house
fires spread in some neighborhoods because the heat of fires "melted" gas
pipes in the houses. Popular magazines aren't reliable on technical
issues,
so I don't know if this was actually true, but if a house fire can get a
gas
pipe hot enough to fail from heat, pipes should be made of steel or other
metal with a high melting point.

Mike Taglieri miket_nyc@...

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Muller" <alan@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 11:41 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable
releases
where else are tapered pipe threads used?

Standards for threaded pipe exist up to 24
inches. The largest I've seen is around 12
inches but 6-8 isn't uncommon. I have no idea
how they applied the torque to make these up. Of
course, modern practice would use a grooved
system like "Victaulic," or welding. (I have a
five or six foot pipe tong (chain wrench) that I
keep around for some reason. I can barely pick it up.)

At one time houses were plumbed with threaded
galvanized pipe, but those days are long gone, at
least in the US. Gas pipe is still commonly
threaded "black" steel but it seems corrugated
stainless is taking over that
market. Electricians do some threading of heavy wall conduit.

So it seems that pipe threading is becoming somewhat obsolescent.

I cut and thread pipe a few times a year--usually
gas pipe or when piping up a boiler. The tools
are expensive new but easy enough to find at flea
markets, etc. To do it in the traditional way
you need a pipe vise of some sort--I like the
chain type as being less in the way--a pipe
cutter--a hacksaw works--a reamer--filing works
in a pinch--and dies/stocks, which come in different sorts.

Threading is a really lousy way to put up
something like a flagpole, or to contain high
pressures under vibration, as the threads thin
the pipe wall and create places for circumferential fatigue cracks to
start.

At 05:42 AM 11/12/2012 -0500, you wrote:

The famous Model T Ford had 1/2" pipe threaded sparkplugs. The plumber's
diestock I have has 2' long handles on it, and is not at al hard to turn.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From:
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf
Of <mailto:fd042%40earthlink.net>fd042@...
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 10:23 PM
To: <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable
releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?

Old flywheel style single cylinder gasoline farm engines mostly used 1/2"
pipe threaded spark plugs. (Made after the low tention spark-points in
the
cylinder chamber, & before the high speed air cooled engines that became
common after WWII) Tapered threads do not give a seal unless used with
pipe
dope or Teflon tape. (& other sealing methods I don't know about);
Regular
threading (no taper) up to a flange & gasket is the modern norm for spark
plugs; the threads locate it, the flange & a gasket seals it. (& you can
use
dope/whatever on the threads to be really sure of a seal if you want.) I
am
not clear as to your need/use of tapered pipe threading...It is
traditional
for iron plumbing, cheap; & for installations that are semi-permenant, IE
not have to be taken apart for a long time. Pipe thread taps & dies work
with a straight pipe, both outside & inside size; IE no previous taper
machining is needed. These taps & dies have their own built in taper, &
will
do the work themselves, albeit W/ a lot of effort, either by hand, or a
pipe
threading motor; but not a small lathe. Seems to me (here in Maine USA)
that
these threading procedures are better done by hand, with a die/ or tap, &
only useing a lathe manually to mount/locate thease tools to get better
accuracy.

-----Original Message-----

From: Roy
Sent: Nov 11, 2012 8:38 PM
To:
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases

where else are tapered pipe threads used?

With an OD of 5/16" it's 1/16" NPT. Both 1/16" & 1/8" NPT are 27 tpi.

Straight pipe threads are used for electrical stuff; conduit fittings
are

threaded NPS as are lamp parts.

Roy

--- In

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...,
ToolRoomTrustee@... wrote:

Classical meter wheel and four dial counter blocks from KAHLSICO.

In my 28 year working life on National Oceanographic and Atmospheric

Research ships as an oceanographic

technician I often had to deal with the devices that measured amount
of

cable going out (and hopefully coming back!).

The technology of the times late 60s to mid 90s (in my career) used a

stainless steel grooved wheel with a nominal circumference of

one meter that was suspended from a gantry or A-frame to allow
working

room for instrument packages. The wheel used a cable

similar to a speedometer cable to connect to a mechanical contrivance

with four dials to cover units, tens, 100s and thousands of

meters. The meter wheel and four dial block used male threads to

connect to female threads on end fittings of the connecting cable.

I was essentialy self taught on the job with my own Unimat at first

then later got some end of fiscal year money to buy a Unimat for

my department. I determined that the threads were 5/16-24 which is a

National Extra Fine so got a die and taps through govt supply

system. Much later found that it was actually a ?x27 pipe thread. The

NEF tap did work.

My conjecture is that the NPT was used so the connections could be
put

on tight.

Anyway, my query here is if anyone else has some examples of where
pipe

threads are used but not on pipes.

Larry Murray

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

Gas lines today are frequently made of copper pipe. Actually, soft
tubing.
In the olden days, the lines were iron pipe with threaded fittings. In
house fires, things collapse, and steel & iron pipe sometimes breaks.
Copper sometimes melts. Pressure tanks can fail when the heat softens the
steel, (Steel loses half it's strength at 500 deg) heat raises the
pressure
inside adding to the likelihood of a burst tank. High winds can collapse
buildings, breaking gas pipes. any spark can then set off a fire or an
explosion. Evidently you are situated high enuf to have avoided the
destruction on Staten Island. I hope so, anyway.

Mert



-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Michael Taglieri
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2012 12:16 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera
cable releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?")


If threaded steel pipe is used for gas, does that make houses safer? I
live
in NYC, and a magazine story about the recent hurricane here said that
house
fires spread in some neighborhoods because the heat of fires "melted" gas
pipes in the houses. Popular magazines aren't reliable on technical
issues,
so I don't know if this was actually true, but if a house fire can get a
gas
pipe hot enough to fail from heat, pipes should be made of steel or other
metal with a high melting point.

Mike Taglieri miket_nyc@...

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Muller" <alan@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 11:41 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable
releases
where else are tapered pipe threads used?

Standards for threaded pipe exist up to 24
inches. The largest I've seen is around 12
inches but 6-8 isn't uncommon. I have no idea
how they applied the torque to make these up. Of
course, modern practice would use a grooved
system like "Victaulic," or welding. (I have a
five or six foot pipe tong (chain wrench) that I
keep around for some reason. I can barely pick it up.)

At one time houses were plumbed with threaded
galvanized pipe, but those days are long gone, at
least in the US. Gas pipe is still commonly
threaded "black" steel but it seems corrugated
stainless is taking over that
market. Electricians do some threading of heavy wall conduit.

So it seems that pipe threading is becoming somewhat obsolescent.

I cut and thread pipe a few times a year--usually
gas pipe or when piping up a boiler. The tools
are expensive new but easy enough to find at flea
markets, etc. To do it in the traditional way
you need a pipe vise of some sort--I like the
chain type as being less in the way--a pipe
cutter--a hacksaw works--a reamer--filing works
in a pinch--and dies/stocks, which come in different sorts.

Threading is a really lousy way to put up
something like a flagpole, or to contain high
pressures under vibration, as the threads thin
the pipe wall and create places for circumferential fatigue cracks to
start.

At 05:42 AM 11/12/2012 -0500, you wrote:

The famous Model T Ford had 1/2" pipe threaded sparkplugs. The plumber's
diestock I have has 2' long handles on it, and is not at al hard to turn.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From:
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf
Of <mailto:fd042%40earthlink.net>fd042@...
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 10:23 PM
To: <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable
releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?

Old flywheel style single cylinder gasoline farm engines mostly used 1/2"
pipe threaded spark plugs. (Made after the low tention spark-points in
the
cylinder chamber, & before the high speed air cooled engines that became
common after WWII) Tapered threads do not give a seal unless used with
pipe
dope or Teflon tape. (& other sealing methods I don't know about);
Regular
threading (no taper) up to a flange & gasket is the modern norm for spark
plugs; the threads locate it, the flange & a gasket seals it. (& you can
use
dope/whatever on the threads to be really sure of a seal if you want.) I
am
not clear as to your need/use of tapered pipe threading...It is
traditional
for iron plumbing, cheap; & for installations that are semi-permenant, IE
not have to be taken apart for a long time. Pipe thread taps & dies work
with a straight pipe, both outside & inside size; IE no previous taper
machining is needed. These taps & dies have their own built in taper, &
will
do the work themselves, albeit W/ a lot of effort, either by hand, or a
pipe
threading motor; but not a small lathe. Seems to me (here in Maine USA)
that
these threading procedures are better done by hand, with a die/ or tap, &
only useing a lathe manually to mount/locate thease tools to get better
accuracy.

-----Original Message-----

From: Roy
Sent: Nov 11, 2012 8:38 PM
To:
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases

where else are tapered pipe threads used?

With an OD of 5/16" it's 1/16" NPT. Both 1/16" & 1/8" NPT are 27 tpi.

Straight pipe threads are used for electrical stuff; conduit fittings
are

threaded NPS as are lamp parts.

Roy

--- In

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...,
ToolRoomTrustee@... wrote:

Classical meter wheel and four dial counter blocks from KAHLSICO.

In my 28 year working life on National Oceanographic and Atmospheric

Research ships as an oceanographic

technician I often had to deal with the devices that measured amount
of

cable going out (and hopefully coming back!).

The technology of the times late 60s to mid 90s (in my career) used a

stainless steel grooved wheel with a nominal circumference of

one meter that was suspended from a gantry or A-frame to allow
working

room for instrument packages. The wheel used a cable

similar to a speedometer cable to connect to a mechanical contrivance

with four dials to cover units, tens, 100s and thousands of

meters. The meter wheel and four dial block used male threads to

connect to female threads on end fittings of the connecting cable.

I was essentialy self taught on the job with my own Unimat at first

then later got some end of fiscal year money to buy a Unimat for

my department. I determined that the threads were 5/16-24 which is a

National Extra Fine so got a die and taps through govt supply

system. Much later found that it was actually a ?x27 pipe thread. The

NEF tap did work.

My conjecture is that the NPT was used so the connections could be
put

on tight.

Anyway, my query here is if anyone else has some examples of where
pipe

threads are used but not on pipes.

Larry Murray

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links