¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

  1. 7x12MiniLathe
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Expanded Topics Messages
Date
Re: Tailstok lower casting

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Are you sure it is messed up? It is possible to rotate the keeper plate 90 or more degrees and then it won't lock down properly. Check this out before replacing!
Bob

On 11/7/2012 12:13 PM, Stefan wrote:

?



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Stefan" wrote:
>
> Hi,
> my lower casting on tail stock is messed up. Don't know how, but it wiggles, and its hard to align it right (V is damaged). I have asked LMS do they sell just that part, but unfortunately they don't sell them in parts, only the complete tail stock.
> Can you tell me where can I get just the lower part, or does some one here has one spare to sell it to me?
>
> ATB
>
> Stefan
>

just to add, mine lathe is Einhell MTB 3000
Re: Tailstok lower casting

 

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Stefan" <stkovac@...> wrote:

Hi,
my lower casting on tail stock is messed up. Don't know how, but it wiggles, and its hard to align it right (V is damaged). I have asked LMS do they sell just that part, but unfortunately they don't sell them in parts, only the complete tail stock.
Can you tell me where can I get just the lower part, or does some one here has one spare to sell it to me?

ATB

Stefan
just to add, mine lathe is Einhell MTB 3000
Tailstok lower casting

 

Hi,
my lower casting on tail stock is messed up. Don't know how, but it wiggles, and its hard to align it right (V is damaged). I have asked LMS do they sell just that part, but unfortunately they don't sell them in parts, only the complete tail stock.
Can you tell me where can I get just the lower part, or does some one here has one spare to sell it to me?

ATB

Stefan
Re: Thinking of you.

MERTON B BAKER
 

How expensive would a really good one be?

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of lists
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2012 12:55 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Thinking of you.


In article <1352244922.96348.YahooMailNeo@...>,
John Kiely <john_kiely@...> wrote:
ou might know more than me Jerry, but I was under the impression that
the APC UPS's didn't work the way you have just described.
The way a UPS works isn't down to manufacturer, there are two basic type
of UPS

1) The simple type where the electronics form a battery charger when the
mains is present but re-configure to form an inverter, to supply power
from the battery, when the mains fails. The output quality is dependant on
the input quality

2) The better type where you have both units present. A dedicated charger
which charges the battery as long as mains is present and a separate
inverter which takes power from the charger/battery to supply the load.
Here the output quality is independent of what the mains is doing and is
solely dependant on the quality of the inverter. These are known as
"online" UPS and provide continuous power without even the slight break
required for re-configuration of the other type. They are, for obvious
reasons more expensive.

--
Stuart



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: Thinking of you.

 

With the online UPS, you're actually running on the UPS 100% of the
time. The "mains" only power the battery charger(s) to maintain the
batteries.

I have an online UPS. It stands approx 5' tall and sits a couple feet
from the breaker panel supplying the majority of my office. Its current
configuration puts out up to 100 amps at 240 VAC. When the mains go out
it will last about 90 mins with my current load. List price on this unit
when new was about $25K. I didn't pay anything near that, I got lucky and
got it from a liquidator from a dot-bomb a number of years ago.

I don't run any of the metal working machines from it tho, just the
servers and CD/DVD duplicator. During a power outage the emergency
lighting isn't sufficient to run the shop on the main level until the
generator is running (which usually doesn't due to insufficient nat gas
pressure).

I'm running on so I'll stop now. Hope everyone comes out of the new
storm hitting the NY/NJ ok.

Vince.



On Wed, 7 Nov 2012, lists wrote:

In article <1352244922.96348.YahooMailNeo@...>,
John Kiely <john_kiely@...> wrote:
ou might know more than me Jerry, but I was under the impression that
the APC UPS's didn't work the way you have just described.
The way a UPS works isn't down to manufacturer, there are two basic type
of UPS

1) The simple type where the electronics form a battery charger when the
mains is present but re-configure to form an inverter, to supply power
from the battery, when the mains fails. The output quality is dependant on
the input quality

2) The better type where you have both units present. A dedicated charger
which charges the battery as long as mains is present and a separate
inverter which takes power from the charger/battery to supply the load.
Here the output quality is independent of what the mains is doing and is
solely dependant on the quality of the inverter. These are known as
"online" UPS and provide continuous power without even the slight break
required for re-configuration of the other type. They are, for obvious
reasons more expensive.

--
Stuart



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




Vince.
--
Michigan VHF Corp.
The Foggy Mist Emporium
Re: Thinking of you.

lists
 

In article <1352244922.96348.YahooMailNeo@...>,
John Kiely <john_kiely@...> wrote:
ou might know more than me Jerry, but I was under the impression that
the APC UPS's didn't work the way you have just described.
The way a UPS works isn't down to manufacturer, there are two basic type
of UPS

1) The simple type where the electronics form a battery charger when the
mains is present but re-configure to form an inverter, to supply power
from the battery, when the mains fails. The output quality is dependant on
the input quality

2) The better type where you have both units present. A dedicated charger
which charges the battery as long as mains is present and a separate
inverter which takes power from the charger/battery to supply the load.
Here the output quality is independent of what the mains is doing and is
solely dependant on the quality of the inverter. These are known as
"online" UPS and provide continuous power without even the slight break
required for re-configuration of the other type. They are, for obvious
reasons more expensive.

--
Stuart
Re: Rust prevention - oil blacking

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Roy

I've only tried the kitchen oven a few times and didn't notice it lingering but that might be down to the powder I used and a separate oven is a far better idea. People regularly dump ovens when they are remodelling so it should be possible to get one for little or nothing without much difficulty

If you only want to cot small parts toaster ovens are an excellent alternative taking up a lot less space

Gerry W
Leeds UK


To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: roylowenthal@...
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2012 02:16:09 +0000
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Rust prevention - oil blacking

?
I haven't personally tried it, but, I've heard that the oven will pick up an odor from being used for powder coating. That's why a dedicated oven is recommended. They're usually available pretty cheaply from thrift stores, especially the Habitat for Humanity ones that have aisles & aisles of building materials.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Durand wrote:
>
> On 11/6/2012 10:00 AM, Exibar wrote:
> >
> >
> > That certianly validates my findings.... I've found that once a part
> > has been heated and treated in that manner that it rusts quicker than
> > bare machined metal :-( although I wasn't using used motor oil, after
> > what you and others have said here, I have no reason to doubt the rust
> > reason.....
> >
> > So, what I've been doing is cold blueing the parts, then sealing them
> > with clear rustoleum.... Does't take ust clear to coat and seal. So it
> > seems like it's working ok.... I *really* like the blued look on these
> > parts.... I just wish there was a simpler and durable way to achieve
> > it cheaply...
> >
>
> Since one way to finish parts is powder coat, anyone used the Harbor
> Freight power coat gun? I've seen some comments that some things are
> nicer than the expensive guns. I know the voltage is lower on the HF
> unit (11,000 vs 15-25,000 on others), but I think this just means a
> little bit thinner coating of powder.
>
> The price is nice.
>
> Also, as to baking, I've seen some people using a kitchen oven (I assume
> the spouse was out at the time). Does that work safely, or do the fumes
> lead to divorce and/or explosions?
>
> --
> Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
> tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
> Skype: jerrydurand
>
Re: 8x12 mini lathe missing parts help needed

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Harbor Freight came through for me, but it did take about 3 months.? In the end I got everything I needed to complete my 7x10 floor model purchase for free, no questions asked.

?

From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Jerry [HM]
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2012 2:02 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] 8x12 mini lathe missing parts help needed

?

?

That is correct.

?

Hope it works out for you.. you'll get a million+ responses saying it didnt work for them..? (but it did for me.. and a few others)

?

I ordered mine long ago.. and the shiping took literally MONTHS...? so be warned..

?

if you need ASAP.. Id get as much from LMS as you can...

?

?

?

?

?

----- Original Message -----

From: Alan Bartz

Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2012 9:16 PM

Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] 8x12 mini lathe missing parts help needed

?

?

Wow those are very reasonable prices.? Is this Harbor Freight tech support then?

On Nov 6, 2012 5:59 PM, "Jerry [HM]" <whispers007@...> wrote:

?

28587-44859? Sync Tooth Belt? (550mm)?? $5.85

28728-44859 V-Belt (0-720) ?$1.38

29380-44859 Follow Rest? $16.57

29381-44859 Steady Rest $17.63

29382-44859 Face Plate $12.42

12334-44859 125mm 4-jaw Chuck $58.00

?

?

I have ordered everything myself, for my 8x.. except for the face plate/4-jaw chuck..

?

You ¡®have¡¯ to talk to TECH SUPPORT to order (if they even allow you to order).. CUSTOMER SERVICE will have NO CLUE.. and say you cant order..etc.

?

?

HTH

?

?

?

From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Alan
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2012 1:30 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] 8x12 mini lathe missing parts help needed

?

?

Hello
I picked up a HF 8x12 metal lathe on Craigslist. It looks new but is missing some parts

My guess is that the tool box got separated from it at some point.

I need both belts. If someone knows the sizes please let me know. Maybe it can order them from Mcmaster.

Both handles are missing for the cross and compound. I can make these, just need some help with dimensions.

No change gears either. I hope someone that converted theirs to CNC would be willing to part with them. Or if anyone knows of a source that may work.

The 3 jaw only has the outside jaws.

The lathe is stamped, 2006 but still has the packing grease on it and was in the original crate. It has all metal hand wheels also.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Alan.

Re: 4" 4-jaw Union Mfg. chuck

lists
 

On 07 Nov, Stuartlists@... wrote:
In article <k7ckgm+firm@...>,
paul.consolini <consolinipj@...> wrote:
Any hints for a novice on accurately locating those holes?
Mount your chuck on your drill press, minus the adaptor plate
<Snip>

Hope this all makes sense.
Sorry, I need to wake up fully, that was how to drill holes in an adaptor
plate to mount it onto the chuck but you already have those. A similar
principle of drill and rotate can be used in your case once you have
established the first hole on the correct PCD

--
Stuart
Re: 4" 4-jaw Union Mfg. chuck

lists
 

In article <k7ckgm+firm@...>,
paul.consolini <consolinipj@...> wrote:
Any hints for a novice on accurately locating those holes?
Mount your chuck on your drill press, minus the adaptor plate (I assume
you have one) and use a drill to carefully line it up on the press as if
you were going to drill into one of the adapter plate fixing holes. The
tapping drill for the mounting hole size should be right and should go in
and out of the hole smoothly, without touching the sides as they say.
Clamp it very securely in position.

Lay the adaptor plate in position on top and carefully drill through with
the clearance drill size, being careful to minimise thread removal from
the mounting hole in the chuck - set your depth stop!

Rotate the adaptor plate 90 degrees till you can get a screw through it to
fix it to the chuck.

Now drill your second hole. Again rotate the plate through 90deg and you
can now have two screws holding the plate to the chuck. Repeat the
exercise till complete. The chuck itself must not be moved during the
process.

Hope this all makes sense.

--
Stuart
Re: 4" 4-jaw Union Mfg. chuck

 

Sounds like a good plan.

The registration recess is the important bit; that's what sets the chuck concentric to the spindle. That said, if the chuck is an independent 4-jaw, the work will need to be set concentric to the spindle axis using a dial indicator. Thus, absolute concentricity of the recess isn't as essential as with a self-centering chuck, but eccentricity could cause imbalance and vibration.

According to this drawing:
< > the registration recess should be 55mm diameter, and the PCD of the bolts is 66mm PCD. You may find that the holes on your spindle flange are somewhat oversized, which may allow you a bit of leeway when setting out for the threaded holes in your backplate/adapter plate.

I suppose you might get really lucky and find that your existing 4 1/4-20 holes are at a PCD of 66mm, and that 1/4" (6.35mm) studs will go through the holes in your spindle flange.

Andy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "paul.consolini" <consolinipj@...> wrote:

Looks like I'll probably go with the adapter plate. I took the chuck apart and what looked to be a blank back on the chuck was actually an adapter plate fitted to the recess in the back of the chuck.

The plate has 4 5/16-18 holes that the chuck was screwed to with socket heads and 4 1/4-20 holes slightly inboard and in line with the larger holes. Looks like all I need to do is drill and tap 4 holes on the 45 degree radials (the other holes are on the 90's, if you can visualize that, turn a registration recess and install studs and be good to go. The OD of the adapter is already a good snug fit to the chuck.

Any hints for a novice on accurately locating those holes?

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Roy" <roylowenthal@> wrote:

There's no problem with the lathe being able to handle a 4" chuck, it's a common upgrade. Some folks have fitted 5" chucks with no problems.

I'd go with an adapter plate; it lets you pass long stock thru & it avoids the risk of the chuck unscrewing itself from its mounting if you slow/stop the spindle too quickly.
Re: 8x12 mini lathe missing parts help needed

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

That is correct.
?
Hope it works out for you.. you'll get a million+ responses saying it didnt work for them..? (but it did for me.. and a few others)
?
I ordered mine long ago.. and the shiping took literally MONTHS...? so be warned..
?
if you need ASAP.. Id get as much from LMS as you can...
?
?
?
?
?

----- Original Message -----
From: Alan Bartz
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2012 9:16 PM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] 8x12 mini lathe missing parts help needed

?

Wow those are very reasonable prices.? Is this Harbor Freight tech support then?

On Nov 6, 2012 5:59 PM, "Jerry [HM]" <whispers007@...> wrote:
?

28587-44859? Sync Tooth Belt? (550mm)?? $5.85

28728-44859 V-Belt (0-720) ?$1.38

29380-44859 Follow Rest? $16.57

29381-44859 Steady Rest $17.63

29382-44859 Face Plate $12.42

12334-44859 125mm 4-jaw Chuck $58.00

?

?

I have ordered everything myself, for my 8x.. except for the face plate/4-jaw chuck..

?

You ¡®have¡¯ to talk to TECH SUPPORT to order (if they even allow you to order).. CUSTOMER SERVICE will have NO CLUE.. and say you cant order..etc.

?

?

HTH

?

?

?

From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Alan
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2012 1:30 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] 8x12 mini lathe missing parts help needed

?

?

Hello
I picked up a HF 8x12 metal lathe on Craigslist. It looks new but is missing some parts

My guess is that the tool box got separated from it at some point.

I need both belts. If someone knows the sizes please let me know. Maybe it can order them from Mcmaster.

Both handles are missing for the cross and compound. I can make these, just need some help with dimensions.

No change gears either. I hope someone that converted theirs to CNC would be willing to part with them. Or if anyone knows of a source that may work.

The 3 jaw only has the outside jaws.

The lathe is stamped, 2006 but still has the packing grease on it and was in the original crate. It has all metal hand wheels also.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Alan.

Re: 8x12 mini lathe missing parts help needed

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

That is also how "I" understand it as well..
?
HF 8x12 = LM 8x14?? (same machine.. different color, different tooling package)
?
?
?
?

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2012 7:07 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: 8x12 mini lathe missing parts help needed

?

I am pretty sure the HF8x12 is the same machine as Lathmaster's 8x12.? Only difference I can remember is the paint color.? The rest of the specs were the same when I bought the HF a few years back.
?
?
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2012 4:49 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: 8x12 mini lathe missing parts help needed

?

I called them this afernoon. They only have the V belt in stock, and the timing belt is back ordered until mid December. They only carry 3 of the gears

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Stephen Castello wrote:
>
> On Tue, 06 Nov 2012 19:30:05 -0000, "Alan" had a
> flock of green cheek conures squawk out:
>
> >Hello
> >I picked up a HF 8x12 metal lathe on Craigslist. It looks new but is missing some parts
> >
> >My guess is that the tool box got separated from it at some point.
> >
> >I need both belts. If someone knows the sizes please let me know. Maybe it can order them from Mcmaster.
> >
> >Both handles are missing for the cross and compound. I can make these, just need some help with dimensions.
> >
> >No change gears either. I hope someone that converted theirs to CNC would be willing to part with them. Or if anyone knows of a source that may work.
> >
> >The 3 jaw only has the outside jaws.
> >
> >The lathe is stamped, 2006 but still has the packing grease on it and was in the original crate. It has all metal hand wheels also.
> >
> >Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> >
> >Alan.
>
> www.LittleMachineShop.com has the belts and other parts for it.
>
>
> --
>
> Stephen
>
> Don't sweat petty things... or pet sweaty things.
>
Re: 4" 4-jaw Union Mfg. chuck

paul.consolini
 

Looks like I'll probably go with the adapter plate. I took the chuck apart and what looked to be a blank back on the chuck was actually an adapter plate fitted to the recess in the back of the chuck.

The plate has 4 5/16-18 holes that the chuck was screwed to with socket heads and 4 1/4-20 holes slightly inboard and in line with the larger holes. Looks like all I need to do is drill and tap 4 holes on the 45 degree radials (the other holes are on the 90's, if you can visualize that, turn a registration recess and install studs and be good to go. The OD of the adapter is already a good snug fit to the chuck.

Any hints for a novice on accurately locating those holes?

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Roy" <roylowenthal@...> wrote:

There's no problem with the lathe being able to handle a 4" chuck, it's a common upgrade. Some folks have fitted 5" chucks with no problems.

I'd go with an adapter plate; it lets you pass long stock thru & it avoids the risk of the chuck unscrewing itself from its mounting if you slow/stop the spindle too quickly.
Re: 8x12 mini lathe missing parts help needed

Alan Bartz
 

Wow those are very reasonable prices.? Is this Harbor Freight tech support then?

On Nov 6, 2012 5:59 PM, "Jerry [HM]" <whispers007@...> wrote:

?

28587-44859? Sync Tooth Belt? (550mm)?? $5.85

28728-44859 V-Belt (0-720) ?$1.38

29380-44859 Follow Rest? $16.57

29381-44859 Steady Rest $17.63

29382-44859 Face Plate $12.42

12334-44859 125mm 4-jaw Chuck $58.00

?

?

I have ordered everything myself, for my 8x.. except for the face plate/4-jaw chuck..

?

You ¡®have¡¯ to talk to TECH SUPPORT to order (if they even allow you to order).. CUSTOMER SERVICE will have NO CLUE.. and say you cant order..etc.

?

?

HTH

?

?

?

From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Alan
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2012 1:30 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] 8x12 mini lathe missing parts help needed

?

?

Hello
I picked up a HF 8x12 metal lathe on Craigslist. It looks new but is missing some parts

My guess is that the tool box got separated from it at some point.

I need both belts. If someone knows the sizes please let me know. Maybe it can order them from Mcmaster.

Both handles are missing for the cross and compound. I can make these, just need some help with dimensions.

No change gears either. I hope someone that converted theirs to CNC would be willing to part with them. Or if anyone knows of a source that may work.

The 3 jaw only has the outside jaws.

The lathe is stamped, 2006 but still has the packing grease on it and was in the original crate. It has all metal hand wheels also.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Alan.

Re: Rust prevention - oil blacking

 

I haven't personally tried it, but, I've heard that the oven will pick up an odor from being used for powder coating. That's why a dedicated oven is recommended. They're usually available pretty cheaply from thrift stores, especially the Habitat for Humanity ones that have aisles & aisles of building materials.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote:

On 11/6/2012 10:00 AM, Exibar wrote:


That certianly validates my findings.... I've found that once a part
has been heated and treated in that manner that it rusts quicker than
bare machined metal :-( although I wasn't using used motor oil, after
what you and others have said here, I have no reason to doubt the rust
reason.....

So, what I've been doing is cold blueing the parts, then sealing them
with clear rustoleum.... Does't take ust clear to coat and seal. So it
seems like it's working ok.... I *really* like the blued look on these
parts.... I just wish there was a simpler and durable way to achieve
it cheaply...
Since one way to finish parts is powder coat, anyone used the Harbor
Freight power coat gun? I've seen some comments that some things are
nicer than the expensive guns. I know the voltage is lower on the HF
unit (11,000 vs 15-25,000 on others), but I think this just means a
little bit thinner coating of powder.

The price is nice.

Also, as to baking, I've seen some people using a kitchen oven (I assume
the spouse was out at the time). Does that work safely, or do the fumes
lead to divorce and/or explosions?

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand
Re: 8x12 mini lathe missing parts help needed

 

The Lathemaster 8x14 is the same as the HF 8x12.
According to the Lathemaster site, they carry parts
(see "About Us"). You can also download a pdf
Manual and parts list.
Re: Thinking of you.

 

It's not that hard to find a UPS that also provides surge & noise protection; my last few did all that. With the smaller units, it's cheaper to buy a replacement than to replace the battery(ies) when they die of old age. I've done that several times, so I've got a few functional ones without batteries kicking around. The smaller ones, with a single battery are usable as 12 volt inverters - the larger ones, with multiple batteries usually have the batteries connected to supply 24 volts to the inverter.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Kiely <john_kiely@...> wrote:

I would recommend the use of an UPS uninterrrupted Power Supply.
Dirty AC can wreck your PC in more ways than one.
For example if you get a brown out or dip in voltage your computer might have trouble distinguishing whether it's on or off.
If the voltage drops or hiccups to such an extent that it goes lower than brown out then there is the possibility of a hard disk wipe.
This actually happened to me.
If you use a big massive generator and you have a couple of heavy duty machines supplied when you shut the power hungry beasts down the controller for the voltage might be a little slow to react. This can result in an over voltage condition. It will eventually come back to normal but by this time it might be too late.
I personally use a 600Watt UPS which is good enough to power two computers for 15 minutes or more. This gives my computers time to shutdown in an orderly fashion without damage to data.
UPS's are not that expensive and I have seen many dumped for the want of a battery.
I don't know if anyone has tried to replace a battery the originals can be quite pricey but a 12 volt battery or maybe multiple 12 volt batteries would do the job almost as good. (Sealed Lead Acid batteries are best). Have not tried this but I do have a UPS put aside for testing some day!
The software that comes with your UPS also has some nice features such as informing you of over and undervoltage, and the associated times.
They are not that expensive, could be that someone is dumping one?
But they do protect you P.C.
?
John Kiely (IRL)



________________________________
From: Richard Garnish <rdg@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tuesday, November 6, 2012 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Thinking of you.




I've had an unregulated small generator kill two laptop power supplies -- I later noticed that when the load dropped to near zero, the output voltage was creeping up to ~300V (this is a 230V nominal generator) so the risk is very real, at least with certain badly-designed units.? The laptops themselves were fine, luckily, so it wasn't too costly an incident.

The frequency won't matter a bit though -- any PC power supply of the last 20 years will be a switch-mode type which will handle voltages from 90-250VAC and most likely any frequency from about 40Hz to 75Hz without any trouble.

Richard

On 06/11/12 12:35, gerry waclawiak wrote:
I bought a cheap 2 stroke 850W generator several years ago for camping (tent) and inevitably it ended up running TV's, laptops and games consoles during the evenings.

I was rather taken aback recently to read that they are potentially (likely) damaging? to electronic circuits and I should buy a more expensive model with voltage regulation or inverter technology.

Marketing hype or not I won't be changing, I've not blown up anything yet so it looks like the circuitry is pretty robust and tolerant on these types of things

Gerry W
Leeds UK




________________________________
To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: mertbaker@...
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2012 04:45:16 -0500
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Thinking of you.

?
Thank you. That is nice to know, as I miss my emails when the power is out.
I'll extend my Aux. circuit so I can use the computer when the grid goes
out.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of John
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2012 9:04 PM
To: mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Thinking of you.

Mert;

Computers, LCD Displays as well as Flat Screen Televisions all use switching
power supplies. They really do not care much about frequency or frequency
stability, as long as it is AC. They are also very tolerant of variations in
voltage level. If you have a surge protector on the line, feed them off any
AC generator regardless of regulation and you should have no problems.

Best regards,
John

--- In mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com, "MERTON B BAKER" mailto:mertbaker@
wrote:

Thanks! Good to know. Mert



-----Original Message-----
From: mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com
[mailto:mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Aquila
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2012 9:46 AM
To: mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Thinking of you.





" We didn't run the
computer off the generator, though, as I'm not sure how sensitive it is
to
minor variations in the frequency of tithe power supply."......Mert

We run out house on a 10,000w generator when the power goes out, as it
often does out here in the sticks.
The desktop is connected to a UPS (as is the TV), which smooths out the
generator power nicely.
The laptops manage just fine being plugged into the wall and taking what
the generator puts out.
------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



--
Richard Garnish
Senior Systems Administrator
Cinesite Limited

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Re: 8x12 mini lathe missing parts help needed

Larry White
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I am pretty sure the HF8x12 is the same machine as Lathmaster's 8x12.? Only difference I can remember is the paint color.? The rest of the specs were the same when I bought the HF a few years back.
?
?

----- Original Message -----
From: Alan
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2012 4:49 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: 8x12 mini lathe missing parts help needed

?

I called them this afernoon. They only have the V belt in stock, and the timing belt is back ordered until mid December. They only carry 3 of the gears

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Stephen Castello wrote:
>
> On Tue, 06 Nov 2012 19:30:05 -0000, "Alan" had a
> flock of green cheek conures squawk out:
>
> >Hello
> >I picked up a HF 8x12 metal lathe on Craigslist. It looks new but is missing some parts
> >
> >My guess is that the tool box got separated from it at some point.
> >
> >I need both belts. If someone knows the sizes please let me know. Maybe it can order them from Mcmaster.
> >
> >Both handles are missing for the cross and compound. I can make these, just need some help with dimensions.
> >
> >No change gears either. I hope someone that converted theirs to CNC would be willing to part with them. Or if anyone knows of a source that may work.
> >
> >The 3 jaw only has the outside jaws.
> >
> >The lathe is stamped, 2006 but still has the packing grease on it and was in the original crate. It has all metal hand wheels also.
> >
> >Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> >
> >Alan.
>
> www.LittleMachineShop.com has the belts and other parts for it.
>
>
> --
>
> Stephen
>
> Don't sweat petty things... or pet sweaty things.
>
Re: Thinking of you.

 

Thanks for your very kind offer, but I have been warned NOT and I mean NOT to bring any more **** in to the house!
One man's **** is another man's livelihood!
?
John Kiely

From: Jerry Durand
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tuesday, November 6, 2012 11:54 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Thinking of you.




On 11/6/2012 3:35 PM, John Kiely wrote:
You might know more than me Jerry, but I was under the impression that the APC UPS's didn't work the way you have just described. If they do then there is an awful lot of electronics in there that doesn't do anything. Again I do suppose it would vary from manufacturer?to manufacturer but I have a little faith in APC! You can also program the UPS to behave differently under different conditions, for instance to wait 5 minutes before coming off battery power.
Again I am only reccommending the use of a UPS from my own personal experience, If you have already invested the money in a high quality generator the issue becomes redundant.
?
John Kiely (IRL)


Since you have an APC UPS, it may very well have the guts of the APC Voltage Stabilizer I recommended built in.? As I said, you can get UPS units with more feature, but an average one from your local computer store most likely won't have them.

I have an old 1KW UPS Triplite with built-in stabilizer if anyone wants a project.? It's yours for the shipping (I'll chuck the batteries, they're toast), it may still work but no guarantee.
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.  
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype:  jerrydurand




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