--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "nissan.370z" <ebandit@...> wrote:

What is best to use for me to clean all of the red grease off of my new 7x12 mini-lathe?

Also what affordable cutting oils does everyone use for various metals? I am starting with some 6061 Aluminum stock probably as my first cuts on the lathe. I also will want to do some mild steel and stainless steel at some point. I have some reading to do so I am familiar with the lathe and make sure I am doing everything properly. I just want to know what to order online or buy locally for cutting oil and also to clean the lathe.

And what is best for way oil? I want something that will keep the lathe from rusting if it sits a couple weeks here and there. I see various types in spray cans and bottle out there, not sure what to get.

Thanks!

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote:

On 10/18/2011 09:03 AM, Paul wrote:

However, light is light, the same photon waves will illuminate the same objects regardless of what the source is, therefore, any suggestion that you flourescent causes more accidents or "hides" defects is plain BS. Anyone who has had HS level Physics will tell you that.

Best not make that statement near a painter, just listened to the rants
of theatrical set painters getting stuck with florescent lighting.
Look up CRI.


--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand

On 10/18/2011 05:37 PM, Roy wrote:

I thought MSC bought Enco a couple of years ago.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote:

Since I already have diamond bench stones for final touch-up, I got an
80 grit SiC wheel from Enco. I notice they sell Tru-Maxx and Norton
wheels, I got the Tru-Maxx. The box says "Crystolon private label" so
it sounds like it's a Norton wheel without the extra fee for the Norton
brand name.*

Also, it's not clear in the catalog but it DOES come with hole bushings.

* just to be more confusing, Tru-Maxx is owned by MSC Services Corp
which has 81 trademarks. MSC Direct is their web page (and they sell the
Tru-Maxx wheels for more than Enco). So Enco buys the wheels from MSC
who buys them from Norton.

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand

On Oct 18, 2011, at 3:06 PM, stantonleman wrote:

They make UV LED's, I use some. The compact fluorescent lights operate the same as standard fluorescent - a trace amount of mercury in the argon plasma emits UV that the glass coating converts to visible light. If you have a UV detector, it's easy to see all fluorescent lights "leak" UV. But, the amount of UV is only a small fraction of that produced by sunlight - even when inside on a cloudy day.

I find the incandescent bulbs work better for fine work using a magnifying visor, mostly because the lamp can easily be brought closer to the work. Banning incandescent bulbs was a 'group think' bone headed idea. Fortunately, rough service bulbs and similar - which are more suitable for machine work - are (currently) exempt from the non-sense.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Bruce Freeman <freemab222@...> wrote:

John is correct.

However, the best UV-absorber for lamps is glass. "Flint glass" or sodium
calcium glass. The most common, cheap glass around. Put a glass mason jar
around your compact fluorescent lamp and NO UV will escape. Flint glass is
opaque to UV.

LED's and incandescent lamps (e.g., halogen lamps) do not emit enough UV to
worry about, As a rule of thumb, if the light originates with an electric
arc (as it does in fluorescent lamps), then UV is produced. Otherwise,
not. LED's are designed to emit the more easily accessible red, green, or
blue parts of the spectra. (UV is higher energy and presents design
challenges. Perhaps someone someday will make a UV-emitting LED for some
specific purpose, but it won't be used for ordinary lighting.) Incandescent
lamps, as John says, have an energy profile that just doesn't get up into
the UV.


On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 11:54 PM, john brookes <haiticare2011@...>wrote:

**


hmmm as an optical engineer, let me add my 2 cents about uv and lamps. Most
plastics will absorb uv and are good as filters. Exception is silicone and
thin acrylic. Regarding led emission of uv, their published spectra show
little or no uv even from blue types. In addition, they are encapsulated in
epoxy, which absorbs uv. The cf's do emit uv, but if you keep a shade
between you and direct exposure, no problem.

About uv from lamps causing cancer, I doubt it, since sunlight has much more

intense uv, and it takes long exposure times to get the skin destruction
seen in older beach bunnies. But its thought-provoking. The HF fluorescent
has a plastic cover over the cicular lamp.
Im surprised you say metal halogen bulbs emit uv, since the spectra of hot
emitters obeys a Planck spectrum which falls off steeply at high frequencies
with a peak according to Wien's law:
temp x wavelength = 3000. Thus a bulb at 3000 deg will peak at 1 micron,
whereas uv begins at .4 and above.
Im not sure you wanted to hear all this...
On a practical note, I notice shades I buy for floor lamps have plastic
liners which crumble after only a little use with cf - a typical sign of uv
degredation of the plastic. Based on that, Im leery of them. Anyone else
notice this?

john b


On Oct 17, 2011, at 10:29 PM, "Roy" <roylowenthal@...> wrote:

A lot of the relatively cheap, bright ones are phosphorized blue LEDs.



Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Durand <jdurand@> wrote:

On 10/17/2011 07:36 AM, lists wrote:

UV is certainly harmful to the skin and eyes, the $64,000 question is
whether manufacturers take the issue seriously and provide filter
coatings on the outside of the tubes.

Just to toss another wrench into the gears of life, many if not most
white LEDs are actually UV LEDs with the same type phosphors* in the
plastic as a florescent light has. So they, too, can emit UV.

* some use quantum dots instead. A very few will use multiple LED die
in 3-5 colors, but that's normally only in devices that are color
changing or for video/film lighting.

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

--
Bruce
NJ

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Bruce Freeman <freemab222@...> wrote:

John is correct.

However, the best UV-absorber for lamps is glass. "Flint glass" or sodium
calcium glass. The most common, cheap glass around. Put a glass mason jar
around your compact fluorescent lamp and NO UV will escape. Flint glass is
opaque to UV.

LED's and incandescent lamps (e.g., halogen lamps) do not emit enough UV to
worry about, As a rule of thumb, if the light originates with an electric
arc (as it does in fluorescent lamps), then UV is produced. Otherwise,
not. LED's are designed to emit the more easily accessible red, green, or
blue parts of the spectra. (UV is higher energy and presents design
challenges. Perhaps someone someday will make a UV-emitting LED for some
specific purpose, but it won't be used for ordinary lighting.) Incandescent
lamps, as John says, have an energy profile that just doesn't get up into
the UV.


On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 11:54 PM, john brookes <haiticare2011@...>wrote:

**


hmmm as an optical engineer, let me add my 2 cents about uv and lamps. Most
plastics will absorb uv and are good as filters. Exception is silicone and
thin acrylic. Regarding led emission of uv, their published spectra show
little or no uv even from blue types. In addition, they are encapsulated in
epoxy, which absorbs uv. The cf's do emit uv, but if you keep a shade
between you and direct exposure, no problem.

About uv from lamps causing cancer, I doubt it, since sunlight has much more

intense uv, and it takes long exposure times to get the skin destruction
seen in older beach bunnies. But its thought-provoking. The HF fluorescent
has a plastic cover over the cicular lamp.
Im surprised you say metal halogen bulbs emit uv, since the spectra of hot
emitters obeys a Planck spectrum which falls off steeply at high frequencies
with a peak according to Wien's law:
temp x wavelength = 3000. Thus a bulb at 3000 deg will peak at 1 micron,
whereas uv begins at .4 and above.
Im not sure you wanted to hear all this...
On a practical note, I notice shades I buy for floor lamps have plastic
liners which crumble after only a little use with cf - a typical sign of uv
degredation of the plastic. Based on that, Im leery of them. Anyone else
notice this?

john b


On Oct 17, 2011, at 10:29 PM, "Roy" <roylowenthal@...> wrote:

A lot of the relatively cheap, bright ones are phosphorized blue LEDs.



Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Durand <jdurand@> wrote:

On 10/17/2011 07:36 AM, lists wrote:

UV is certainly harmful to the skin and eyes, the $64,000 question is
whether manufacturers take the issue seriously and provide filter
coatings on the outside of the tubes.

Just to toss another wrench into the gears of life, many if not most
white LEDs are actually UV LEDs with the same type phosphors* in the
plastic as a florescent light has. So they, too, can emit UV.

* some use quantum dots instead. A very few will use multiple LED die
in 3-5 colors, but that's normally only in devices that are color
changing or for video/film lighting.

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

--
Bruce
NJ

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Byron
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 9:46 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Buying a mini-lathe


The harbor freight 8x12 (measures same as lathemaster 8x14) is dilivered
from harbor freight with a extra gear to reverse the lead screw. You don't
have to make one as it comes in the box.

Yes to cut left hand threads you have to bolt on the extra gear and put on
the right gears for the thread pitch you wnat to cut but left hand threads
don't require fabricating anything.

But unlike the 7x they are metyal gears that work quite well

It is amazing how much non owners of the HF 8x12 claim to know about what it
does not include.

I also had the HF shortest 7x and gave it away after I got the 8x12

Yes I also eventually got a 12x36 but the 8x12 is a keeper

Really had no need for the 7x as everything it could do the 8x could do
better



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Andrew Franks <andyf1108@...> wrote:

Though it does boast variable speed control, my Weiss 7x12 lathe is

similar in many respects to an 8x, and came without a leadscrew reverse . I
soon decided that a reverse would be helpful, not only for LH threading but
also for plain turning up to a shoulder at the outside end of the work. In
the end, the reverse proved pretty easy to implement.

I read up on fitting tumbler arrangements to 8x lathes, but as you say,

the effort involved seemed "not insignificant". Realising that reverse would
not be needed very often, I went for a single idler gear which could be
interposed between the spindle gear and the topmost gear on the banjo. The
simplest option was be to drill/tap a hole in the headstock into which a
stud carrying the extra gear could be screwed when required, but the lathe
was under warranty and I doubted my ability to drill in exactly the right
place to achieve a good mesh with the spindle gear. Accordingly, I mounted
the gear on an arm pivoting around an existing bolt into the headstock, so
it can be swung into position when required, the banjo being repositioned to
make room for it. Full details at <
>

Not as convenient as a proper tumbler reverse, but only takes a few

moments to bring into play on the rare occasions when needed.

Andy



To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: steelchipper@...
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 19:37:11 -0400
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Buying a mini-lathe






I wouldn't advise being too quick to just dismiss being able to cut left

hand threads, or to power feed away from the chuck, or bore out a workpiece
where you'd have the chuck going in reverse and the tool feeding into the
far side of the hole where you can see it, etc. - In short, being able to
reverse the direction of the leadscrew (independently of the spindle
direction) is not necessarily some minor little detail to carelessly toss
away, so to speak.

A little bit of reading background might be in order:

Here, the guys at Fignoggle did a comparison of the 8x versus the 7x and

the 9x .

And perhaps most importantly, here shows some 8x12/14 owners discussing

their not insignificant efforts to add the necessary tumbler gears, so they
can do all that reversible leadscrew stuff mentioned above. Pictures
included. Clearly, at least some percentage of 8x12/14 owners do not find a
reversible leadscrew to be an unnecessary "frill.".................

.

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Andrew Franks wrote:
>
>
> Though it does boast variable speed control, my Weiss 7x12 lathe is similar in many respects to an 8x, and came without a leadscrew reverse . I soon decided that a reverse would be helpful, not only for LH threading but also for plain turning up to a shoulder at the outside end of the work. In the end, the reverse proved pretty easy to implement.
>
> I read up on fitting tumbler arrangements to 8x lathes, but as you say, the effort involved seemed "not insignificant". Realising that reverse would not be needed very often, I went for a single idler gear which could be interposed between the spindle gear and the topmost gear on the banjo. The simplest option was be to drill/tap a hole in the headstock into which a stud carrying the extra gear could be screwed when required, but the lathe was under warranty and I doubted my ability to drill in exactly the right place to achieve a good mesh with the spindle gear. Accordingly, I mounted the gear on an arm pivoting around an existing bolt into the headstock, so it can be swung into position when required, the banjo being repositioned to make room for it. Full details at < >
>
> Not as convenient as a proper tumbler reverse, but only takes a few moments to bring into play on the rare occasions when needed.
>
> Andy
>
>
>
> To: 7x12minilathe@...
> From: steelchipper@...
> Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 19:37:11 -0400
> Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Buying a mini-lathe
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I wouldn't advise being too quick to just dismiss being able to cut left hand threads, or to power feed away from the chuck, or bore out a workpiece where you'd have the chuck going in reverse and the tool feeding into the far side of the hole where you can see it, etc. - In short, being able to reverse the direction of the leadscrew (independently of the spindle direction) is not necessarily some minor little detail to carelessly toss away, so to speak.
>
> A little bit of reading background might be in order:
>
> Here, the guys at Fignoggle did a comparison of the 8x versus the 7x and the 9x .
>
> And perhaps most importantly, here shows some 8x12/14 owners discussing their not insignificant efforts to add the necessary tumbler gears, so they can do all that reversible leadscrew stuff mentioned above. Pictures included. Clearly, at least some percentage of 8x12/14 owners do not find a reversible leadscrew to be an unnecessary "frill.".................
>
> .
>