开云体育

I've recently been using a program called Pro/Desktop Express. It's a more
limited version of ProDesktop, but it has certainly done everything I want
it to do. Available for free from <>. On the info page
for Pro/Desktop, there's a learn and try tab that has a link to the
download. You have to register (for free) and get a key. And supposedly,
after six months you have to download an update or get a new key (can't
remember which), which means that there's always the possibility that
they'll decide to stop distributing it, and your current copy won't work.
But, it really is a modern CAD package, from what I've seen. Be sure to
check out the tutorials in the help files. After trying other cad
packages, this was the first one I really liked.
Scott

Try Google for a long list of candidates. Search term: "freeware" "CAD program"
Mike

Hi Charlie,

I haven't checked out the one recommended by Bob, but I will. In the meantime, here's one that I have been using for several years. www.dcad.com It is called DeltaCAD and I swear by it. It is very easy to learn and use. There's a 45 day free trial, then it costs $39.95. They claim to have sold more than 150,000 copies.

Charlie Starks

You may want to try Pro Desktop Express. It is free but you do have
to register in order to get it working. You can find it at this link


oduct_v.jsp?&im_dbkey=2295&im_language=en&tab=try

Karel


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "cwalklin1" <cwalklin1@y...>
wrote:

Hi all;
I'm looking for an affordable cad program (shareware freeware) is

ok

if it has some bells and whistles. I need to draft up some stuff

and

post it here for you guys to have a look at. Mostly little

fixtures

and shop helpers. I have 35 years exp as tool and die maker

(retired

now) and would like to help if I can.

Charlie
cwalklin1@y...

cwalklin1 wrote:

Hi all; I'm looking for an affordable cad program (shareware freeware)

Check this out (freeware)

Regards
Bob

Hi all;
I'm looking for an affordable cad program (shareware freeware) is ok
if it has some bells and whistles. I need to draft up some stuff and
post it here for you guys to have a look at. Mostly little fixtures
and shop helpers. I have 35 years exp as tool and die maker (retired
now) and would like to help if I can.

Charlie
cwalklin1@...

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@y...> wrote:

Lower speed and/or a shop apron help, especially for those of

us

that don't like to expose our shortcomings to machinery <g>

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "David A. Frantz"

<wizard@e...>

wrote:

That can be prevented by not wearing shorts. :)

As to the original poster, doesn't that first piece off your

machine

make you feel good?

Dave


Clint D wrote:

Kent

Them metal splinters, hehe! just don't get em in your shorts!

Clint

----- Original Message -----
From: Kent Killam
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 12:25 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] 1st time with the lathe


Well folks, I fired up my lathe for the first time. I

started

out

by squaring the ends of on a scrap piece of brass, and then

cutting

two small grooves on one end. Then I used the center bore,

and

place a small hole in the end. My son thought I was making a
shotgun shell. At least it had SOME semilence (not sure if

this is

a word) to something real. I did however discover something

that

sucks about this whole thing, metal splinters ;-)

I have just ordered a face plate, a 4 jaw chuck, and a few

other

items. Once the faceplate comes I can try squaring up the

flywheel

for my Stuart D10, and the 4 jaw will allow me to start

getting

the

base ready.

I'll keep you all posted.


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<>.

You might try turning the tool upside down and running the spindle
in reverse, it throws the chips down instead of showering you with
them. That is if your turning brass..

Lower speed and/or a shop apron help, especially for those of us
that don't like to expose our shortcomings to machinery <g>

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "David A. Frantz" <wizard@e...>
wrote:

That can be prevented by not wearing shorts. :)

As to the original poster, doesn't that first piece off your

machine

make you feel good?

Dave


Clint D wrote:

Kent

Them metal splinters, hehe! just don't get em in your shorts!

Clint

----- Original Message -----
From: Kent Killam
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 12:25 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] 1st time with the lathe


Well folks, I fired up my lathe for the first time. I started

out

by squaring the ends of on a scrap piece of brass, and then

cutting

two small grooves on one end. Then I used the center bore, and
place a small hole in the end. My son thought I was making a
shotgun shell. At least it had SOME semilence (not sure if

this is

a word) to something real. I did however discover something

that

sucks about this whole thing, metal splinters ;-)

I have just ordered a face plate, a 4 jaw chuck, and a few other
items. Once the faceplate comes I can try squaring up the

flywheel

for my Stuart D10, and the 4 jaw will allow me to start getting

the

base ready.

I'll keep you all posted.


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ADVERTISEMENT




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<>.

That can be prevented by not wearing shorts. :)

As to the original poster, doesn't that first piece off your machine make you feel good?

Dave


Clint D wrote:

It is sort of like going off of the high diving board for the first time
but you acclimate with remarkable ease!

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

Kent

Them metal splinters, hehe! just don't get em in your shorts!

Clint

Well folks, I fired up my lathe for the first time. I started out
by squaring the ends of on a scrap piece of brass, and then cutting
two small grooves on one end. Then I used the center bore, and
place a small hole in the end. My son thought I was making a
shotgun shell. At least it had SOME semilence (not sure if this is
a word) to something real. I did however discover something that
sucks about this whole thing, metal splinters ;-)

I have just ordered a face plate, a 4 jaw chuck, and a few other
items. Once the faceplate comes I can try squaring up the flywheel
for my Stuart D10, and the 4 jaw will allow me to start getting the
base ready.

I'll keep you all posted.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., broken003@j... wrote:

What would be the best way to determine if a location was acceptable
for a shop. I plan to setup my shop in an old basement, I am
wondering if it might be too humid and cause corrosion of my tools.
Is there any way I could determine if things will be OK?

It may not be the best, but an easy way to test your location is to
hang a piece of clean steel in it for a few days. If it rusts, just
repeat the test using simple rustproofing methods - oil or grease
first, then as exotic as you may want to use _all_the_time_ on your
machines and other tools.
The results of the test with "clean" steel will depend on just *how*
clean you get it. If it is really clean, it will probably start to
rust in minutes in any but the driest air. See the reports on the
many derusting methods - they all emphasize that you must immediately
oil the part to prevent rust.
Just laying the test piece on a concrete floor almost guarantees
that it will rust. Hang it up near bench height, out of the way of
anyone who might come into painful contact with it...

There are many other considerations than just how rust-susceptible
it is. Is there sufficient electrical power available? How about
lighting? Accessability? Etc... Few if any shops are in perfect
locations, but we use what we have available, anyway.

Hope some of that helps.

RA

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Kent Killam" <soberman@a...>
wrote: Thoughts, suggestions, pointers, all most

appreciated.

Kent you got a goldmine in the 150 watt lightbulb idea. cover your
equiptment with a tarp. put a trouble light under but not touching the
tarp (tent it). Viola! rust resistant environment.

Kurt.

Would it be reliably centered in a 4 jaw scroll chuck? A little
playing with drafting templates makes me wonder about the centering.
(It's possible to grab a square piece in a 3 jaw scroll chuck; it's
expedient for facing, but, not centered.)

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "david" <davidalan@l...> wrote:

there is one point that will allow you to fit a hexagonal piece in

a 4 jaw,

just turn it round till all jaws grip it equally


DAVID WILLIAMS
BOLTON
ENGLAND
www.smartgroups.com/groups/fliers

Kent, it isn't just the temperature but the humidity and how the
temperature swings through a day. If you were at the south pole then
things wouldn't rust even though they were very cold. This is because the
humidity is so low that there is almost no moisture in the air to
condense on the metal. Out there on the cape you will see a lot of
humidity as well as droplets of salt water in the air. Worst case! If you
have warm, moist, foggy air coming in contact with cold bare metal you
will get corrosion. You need to keep the metal above the dew point of the
air and filter out any of the salty aerosol off the ocean. Ultimately
this means an enclosed shop, controlled and filtered air going through
it, and (probably) radiant heating of the shop and it's contents
directly! Otherwise take a cue from the Brits and slather grease over
everything capable of rusting and clean off A/R! EECH!!

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

What would be the best way to determine if a location was acceptable for a shop. I plan to setup my shop in an old basement, I am wondering if it might be too humid and cause corrosion of my tools. Is there any way I could determine if things will be OK?


Thanks
Mark


Please note: message attached

there is one point that will allow you to fit a hexagonal piece in a 4 jaw,
just turn it round till all jaws grip it equally


DAVID WILLIAMS
BOLTON
ENGLAND
www.smartgroups.com/groups/fliers

Good Morning Kent:

Best bet against the rust issue is to keep the machines well oiled - I use Mobil 1 on all exposed parts, and to cover your machines when not in use. If you intend on working during the colder months, either an electric heater or a kerosene heater - which is what I use to heat my 12 X 30' garage is the way to go. I keep my machines covered with ordinary bath towels after giving them a generous application of the Mobil 1. I have not seen any sign of rust or oxidation in the 2 years of ownership.

Best regards,

Nick

Kent Killam <soberman@...> wrote:
I need some assistance here folks. I live in the North East, Cape
Cod Mass to be exact. My work area is a 10x14 shed that has
electricity. My plan was to set up my shop there with a mill, lathe
and a few other tools to build my steam engines.

This past week in conversation, condensation came up, someone told
me I might have problems when it gets cold keeping my machines from
rusting. Anyone have any experiance keeping equipment in an
unheated area during the cold months? And here I was, thoinking I
have a good thing going. Thoughts, suggestions, pointers, all most
appreciated.

Thanks for any & all feedback.

Kent



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If you don't heat the place you will have problems. I have my shop in a cellar, I have problems with humidity in the summer. Same basic issue.

I would suggest insulation and a modest amount of heat. You won't need a lot to prevent rust. On the other hand if you expect to make use of the tools you will need quite a bit of heat. Lets face it, having your tools to cold to operate for 8 months out of the year, pretty much makes them useless even if they are rust free. Also the cold will impact a precision machine more than it will say a wood working machine, so you loose and the machine looses.

If you go to woodcrafters, they have a spray on rust preventative that may be usefull for thing you don't want to keep oiled. This keeps the table top of my saw rust free. Yes I know woodcrafters supports a different craft, but some of us have multiple interests. What ever you do do not us WD 40 as it will leave a film that you will not like on your machines. A can of sprayon oil can help. You might even consider paint, lets face it some of the paint jobs on the imported hardware leaves alot to be desired. A good quality paint job will protect those things that should have a permanent finish anyways.

Stainless steel is another option. That is make or purchase as much stainless tooling and fixturing as possible or use aluminum. Some materials rust faster than others, for example band saw blades, pay special attention to them.

Dave


Kent Killam wrote: