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I am a newbie to the group. I know that many plastics become brittle at (very) low temperatures. Some of them need to be treated with liquid nitrogen to make them brittle. One experiment someone can

IMHO, the proper method is to use the chuck key in a key hole. Any slight chance of distorting the chuck body is reduced by applying the force against the large pinion bearing surface instead of

Proper method is what you're doing, minus the rag. Graciously, Jim Lakewood, CA All Hail Rube Goldberg! lecompte126 wrote:

Kelvin; if it (1) getting the screws out, (2) not hurting the lath, (3) not hurting you then it is probably OK! Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

Kelvin, The normal method most folks use is to use either the chuck key itself, or what I made for mine. I made a separate hand key for the various chucks that I use on mine. In the Photos section,

Put the chuck key in one of the holes; use it to keep the chuck from turning. Roy <lecompte126@h...> wrote: tried turning a right

Kevil, First of all removing a chuck, do it carefully, there 3 or 4 screws on the back of the chuck. What I did on my little lathe was put a 5 inch chuck on it, I used the back plate that HF sells and

Hi everyone, I was cleaning the red grease off of my Homier Lathe today. I tried to remove the 3-jaw chuck, but could not keep the chuck from turning to unscrew the 3 screws. What I did is open up the

Thanks a bunch Ed, I am buying a Homier...

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ron DeBlock" <rdeblock@a...> wrote: <Snip> > The Delrin is wonderful material to machine, except for one annoyance: the > chip comes off as a single, long

You already have answers for the "no reverse" problem. FYI, these lathes *all* run slower in reverse than forward. It is just another "feature". It appears to actually be intentional, since there is a

There are other references for tool setting: The chuck face is perpendicular to the work. The tailstock ram is parallel to the work. Setting a tool relative to the chuck is easier with a parallel;

Greetings Mr. Hawk, if you don't already know, both machines are made in the same factory by Sieg. The main difference is with the accessories that are included with the Grizzly. The Grizzly includes

-HAWK- I bought a Grizzly myself http://www.grizzly.com and have been very happy with it. There is alot of packing grease to remove! If you have a bent chip tray they will replace it no questions

I noticed the toolpost being discussed is round so it looks like you set the angle each time you change tools. I added the Phase II toolpost and find setting the angle awkward when it needs to be

Hi Den, Don't give me the credit for designing this project. I found it on the site below but I believe it was originally designed by someone on this list (Mert ? Jim ?). I am more than pleased with

<woodnpen@o...> wrote: is simply not able to withstand the torque required for die- threading, is that it? 1/4-20 is a tough one, of course, I have no problem with 1/4-28. Just the nature of the beast

John, Thanks for the info. I will contact Homier on Monday George --- John <moran03@...> wrote:

Hi George, AFIK the forward/reverse is not a common problem with the Homier 7x12's. This sounds like a problem with the f/r switch and Homier will likely ship a new one quickly once you contact them.

I just (2 days ago) received my new (Homier)Speedway 7 x 12 mini-lathe and the reverse stopped working. It worked the 1st couple of days but the RPMs were half of the forward speed in high and low