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I suspect you are right. I think so, although I have never tried it. I have *lapped* a lead screw thread on another machine, and it does seem to have worked well. I cut a matching thread in a piece of

<woodnpen@o...> wrote: you very much!!! Yes, I use tapmagic, and I did not use the waterpipe extension on the chuck key, figured it I could not hold it using my hands on teh chuck key something was

A "Thread Restoring File" will do a better job of refining the threads than free-hand sandpaper. You'll need one that includes M1.0; should be available from a local auto parts store. Roy I since not

Steve: I've had that qctp bookmarked for some time but have not found the time for it ... until now. I just bought and am returning a micro qctp from Phase II. The hardare is cheap and many screws

As part of adding a ball bearing and more travel to my cross slide I removed the cross slide lead screw. I noted a sludge on the lead screw which looks like powdered brass mixed with grease. I suspect

Are you sure that it is not hardened? Some users have confused drill ROD with drill BLANKS. Drill blanks are hardened and can't be turned in the lathe. Drill rod can also be in a hardened state that

The chuck will improve if it's reduced to its component parts, deburred and lubricated. There's usually one jaw that binds against the body, reducing the clamping force. All that being said, drill rod

I was using a die. Single point is not a problem. So the chuck is simply not able to withstand the torque required for die-threading, is that it? 1/4-20 is a tough one, of course, I have no problem

I have a cheapie from LMS. The mounting bar ripped off the first time I used it. I retapped for 8-32 and it's worked OK since. * REPLY SEPARATOR *

Ah, that's an idea, start single point, finish with die... thank you very much!!! Yes, I use tapmagic, and I did not use the waterpipe extension on the chuck key, figured it I could not hold it using

I tried to hold a piece of D size drill rod (.246") in the stad 3" chuck on my Homier 7x12 and cut a 1/4-20 thread, and could not. The rod would slip in the chuck, no matter how hard I tried to crack

If you are serious about this you could try turning a sholder on the rod in order to make the start easier. But what I would do is start the thread with single point then finish it with a die. Single

Hello Richard, A couple of things to look at: 1. I assume you are trying to single point the thread and not trying to use a die. Assuming that is the case start by checking how hard the drill rod is.

Greetings, I got this via e-mail. If anyone is going perhaps we could meet and network. Based upon what I saw at the last sale in Indiana if you want a mini-lathe or mini-mill you had better get there

My flyer said "IN STORE ONLY" does the HF 9x20 have true inch lead screws? ie .050"/rev rather than .0625"/rev...??? now, I have to decide if a 9x20 HF is a better choice than an 8x14

Greetings, My 13 year old son built Junior Solar Sprint car. The wheels were machined from black Delrin on the Homier 7x12. We made a new set of lighter wheels tonight, since he's competing in the

Hi Kelvin, Frank Hoose's http://www.mini-lathe.com/ site has lots of info on the doodads you'll need to actually make things with your lathe. Plus lots of other useful info on setup, tuning,

George, The first thing is what do you want to do with your lathe? Buy O.K. quality tools to practice with even if you have lathe experience on other machines. The best thing I ever did was get a 5"

George, I just ordered mine as well, off ebay but it's coming from Homier. If you hav'nt checked out these sights yet go to littlemachineshop.com (LMS)and mini-lathe.com they are full of good

Kevin, I also just ordered a Speedway 7 x 12 metal lathe from Homier and it is still in route. I am a beginner and need to also know what tools to purchase. Could you please forwrd to me any reples