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I checked the label and it does not give ingredients. My bottle is atleast 6 years old and the stuff is still liquid form. Would that indicate if it were wax or not. I really thought the sales person

I may still have some in my garage and I will check the label to confiem this.. Scott

They make a lubricant called white lightning for bicycle chains it has teflon in it. The neat thing about this lubricant is that you apply it and in a few minutes it dries. It is real slippery after

hello. I am pretty happy with my new 7x12 mini lathe but was wondering what size cuts others are making on cold rolled steel. I've gotten used to making .100+ cuts on 2" CRS on the backgeared South

Also, the error is in the direction of removing less metal - it's easy to take another pass with a small advance to final diameter. If the early cut was too big, no amount of cutting will replace

I converted my mini mill to belt drive, eliminating the nylon gears, and converted "Z" axis rack control to acme screw control, for more precise operation. Have all parts from conversions, NEW PARTS,

Here's an example, which will hopefully make it more clear why the small error of the dials is usually insignificant: Suppose you want to turn a 1/2" diameter rod to .475" in dia. You start by making

hello. Was just cleaning and lubing a new 7x12 as per the mini-lathe.com site. In that site, they use lithium grease on the dovetails and lead screws. Isn't this a bad idea? Wont the chips stick? What

Try www.mcmaster.com

Aw shucks... why didn't I think of that? That dead center was probably grinning at me all along! Thanks * REPLY SEPARATOR * -- Regards, Rich

Not sure if this is of any help: http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_mill/Accessories/Layout/layout.htm#hgage http://chemlearn.chem.indiana.edu/c121/C121L01.pdf Frank Hoose http://www.mini-lathe.com ---

Don't be overly concerned about true inch leadscrews. The main (threading) leadscrew on the 7x lathes is true inch. The cross feed and compound are 1mm pitch with the calibrated wheels having 40

<<<<<<<<The idea of scrap yard material isn't a bad one. Let me know if you find a good cheap source. >>>>>> i use local scrapyards all the time, our local one always has plenty of brass and aluminium

There's some comparisons here: http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Versions/Versions.htm Some of the confusion about bed length may come from the tailstock not being able to seat a standard dead

Use a dead center or a high-bucks live center that doesn't have a large diameter bearing housing. With a carbide tipped dead center, it doesn't take much pressure to steady the work. A follow rest

I bought one a couple of months ago. It works very well. The digital readout has been very handy and their cam-lock tailstock is great. I certainly would recommend one.

There is something to be said for a large tool bit (1/2" in our case) clamped to the top slide in the British style with a rocker style clamp and a stack of shims on the other side! Room and rigidity.

When you mount a (fairly standard, from HF) live center in the tailstock, and have a small diameter workpiece, how do you arrange your tooling to be able to turn it? I have a TS Eng. QC toolpost. The

For external threads, Fowler (IIRC), makes a micrometer attachment consisting of 2 triangular prisms with little elastic thingies that hold them to the micrometer spindle & anvil. Each prism has 3

What I see as the problem with the razor blade idea is that it is dependent on the shape of the tip of the tool cutting the thread. Any wear and you are getting off in diameter. And if you were