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I'm finally up and running with my new 7 X 12 and I am having a ball! I would first like to thank all the 'old timers' (who are probably much younger than I) for all the help I have already gotten

Neil, I don't know if this is exactly what you're looking for, but here are a couple of URLs that define symbols and standards. http://www.lanl.gov/orgs/f/f6/pubf6stds/drftman/drft_symbols.html

Would any of you be able to point me to a decent online tutorial/reference of CAD drafting standards? Been a looonnnggg time since I've done any of this, and I want to re-learn the symbols for finish

This answers some of the questions, like line styles, etc. That leaves finish marks as the biggest open question. Thanks, -Neil.

Here's a pretty comprehensive article on parting: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ShopTools_2/files/Lathe% 20tooling/Parting%20Off/ Roy said,even soon as model rotary have fed as anyone explain,

russlbowen1958 wrote: BTW, your initial post implied you have some experience with large lathes. You can make the 7x12 work. I have had fair success at this with absolutely no prior experience and

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., franksjoy@a... wrote: Can anyone explain, > technically, why parting is so difficult? > Max > This isn't the technical explanation, but from what I understand

<moldproducts@a...>" <moldproducts@a...> wrote: Absolutely, and cannot be correctly without considerable airfares - shudder!. This observation is rather like a Hundai vs BMW comparison; fit, finish,

Al, I like your idea of turning the lathe manually. I have been wanting to make a crank arrangement for threading manually, but had not thought of using the same method for parting off. Craig

Sometimes, though, a nice finish cut is needed and the work has no place to clamp in the chuck for a finish facing cut, or may be marred by the chuck (although brass shims may be used in this case).

I have experienced all the problems with parting and, as one member said,even turned the chuck by hand. With my 7X14 the circuit breaker trips as soon as the tool hogs. I'm attempting to make a small

The product reviews at: http://www.mini-lathe.com/Default.htm are accurate and honest. The Asian minis can meet your accuracy needs; they may need some tweaking - the basic pieces are decent, fit &

True enough. I use the 4-jaw when I need absolute concentricity on an existing workpiece. Not to put down Rick's idea - I think it's great and will probably make one someday. Frank Hoose

There's also a lot to be said for hacksaw parting, followed by a facing cut :-) Roy

Parting problems are a recurring issue; you've happened to hit a temporary lull :-) Make sure the tool is truly vertical - my HF holder needed some shimming to properly hold a "T" blade. It also has

I tend to use the cutoff tool only for stock 1/2" dia. or less. For bigger stuff, I use the bandsaw. Frank Hoose http://www.mini-lathe.com --- "Craig C. Hopewell <chopewel@...>"

I think it's an arbitrary amount. If you make too much adjustment range, there's no particular downside; if you make too little adjustment range, it's easy to increase. At some point, the mounting

I have the HF QCTP and have had the same problem. As others have stated slow speed is an answer. I have even turned off the lathe and turned the chuck by hand while feeding the cross slide, it worked

I have not made the adjustable back plate so I cannot speak from experience but I would guess you are right. It would seem that .010 would be enough adjustment for a chuck that does not have other