开云体育

You can shim under the toolbit itself. Feeler gauges are a
convenient thing to use, since you can adjust to within a .001 pretty
easily. Go to www.sears.com and type this part number into the
search window: 00940804000
This is a 25 piece feeler gauge set for only 5.99. They come apart
just by unscrewing a nut and you can pick and choose a combination of
one or two gauges to shim your toolbit.
Eventually, you may decide you wan to to go to a quick change tool
post (QCTP), which makes shimming unnecessary.
B Flint



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kdoney_63021
<kdoney_63021@y...>" <kdoney_63021@y...> wrote:

I know I should know this but ... My tools are hitting below the
center of a workpiece and I need move the tool higher. I assume I
shim the tool holder around the toolpost but with what? Is there a
specific shim stock or should I just buy the same shims I used to
shim the lathe?
Thank you

I know I should know this but ... My tools are hitting below the
center of a workpiece and I need move the tool higher. I assume I
shim the tool holder around the toolpost but with what? Is there a
specific shim stock or should I just buy the same shims I used to
shim the lathe?
Thank you

John,

Very clever arrangement, I like it. As you say there is an upside and
downside. Upside is, quickly put in place with little in parts ...
except the QCTP. Using the compound on a slotted angle plate lowers
the cost and raises the capability. But that's a good job.

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John <moran03@e...>"
<moran03@e...> wrote:

Hi Clay,

I'm a newbie too and have been experimenting with milling in my

lathe

with mixed results. I added a QC toolpost and found that this

allows

a crude vertical adjustment via the tool height; of course, you have
to stop, change vertical height, then make another pass so it is

very

slow but it does allow you to try milling. I hold work by bolting a
1/2" bar to the bottom of a small vise then mount this bar in the
toolpost. A picture is available to help make the setup clear:


You could do something similar using the regular toolpost by packing
to move things vertically, although the vertical movement would be
very small unless you packed the toolpost itself.

In addition to milling, I've found that a fly cutter provides a
simple and inexpensive way to make flat surfaces using the same
method of holding the work. Small items can be mounted in the
toolpost directly (or bolted to a piece of 1/2" stock) for milling

or

flycutting. I've had good luck with the flycutter once I got it
sharpened properly -- I broke the tips off of my carbide miller bit
by accidentally approaching the work too quickly which discouraged

me

somewhat -- the flycutter seems relatively bulletproof and is
inexpensive.

The sphere cutter shown on the above page had the slot for the tool
holder milled into the aluminum on my lathe by bolting the 2.5"
aluminum round to a 1/2" steel piece which was mounted in the
toolpost. The steel tool holder for the sphere fixture was shaped
mostly with a fly cutter plus some enthusiastic filing.

None of the above allows speedy results but it does allow trying
things out at little expense in $ or time.

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ccarlile1 <ccarlile1@y...>"
<ccarlile1@y...> wrote:

I'm finally up and running with my new 7 X 12 and I am having
a ball! I would first like to thank all the 'old timers' (who are
probably much younger than I) for all the help I have already

gotten

from their web sites and from the user groups on the Internet.
Unfortunately for my bank account, I have also found that
milling is almost a necessity in this hobby and I am looking for
alternatives to a milling machine. I discovered Varmit Al's site

and

the attachment he designed for a lathe and also found the $129
milling attachment at LittleMachineShop.com. Can anyone offer
comments on this approach to milling on the lathe -- both the pros
and cons?
Many thanks in advance, Clay

Hi Clay,

I'm a newbie too and have been experimenting with milling in my lathe
with mixed results. I added a QC toolpost and found that this allows
a crude vertical adjustment via the tool height; of course, you have
to stop, change vertical height, then make another pass so it is very
slow but it does allow you to try milling. I hold work by bolting a
1/2" bar to the bottom of a small vise then mount this bar in the
toolpost. A picture is available to help make the setup clear:


You could do something similar using the regular toolpost by packing
to move things vertically, although the vertical movement would be
very small unless you packed the toolpost itself.

In addition to milling, I've found that a fly cutter provides a
simple and inexpensive way to make flat surfaces using the same
method of holding the work. Small items can be mounted in the
toolpost directly (or bolted to a piece of 1/2" stock) for milling or
flycutting. I've had good luck with the flycutter once I got it
sharpened properly -- I broke the tips off of my carbide miller bit
by accidentally approaching the work too quickly which discouraged me
somewhat -- the flycutter seems relatively bulletproof and is
inexpensive.

The sphere cutter shown on the above page had the slot for the tool
holder milled into the aluminum on my lathe by bolting the 2.5"
aluminum round to a 1/2" steel piece which was mounted in the
toolpost. The steel tool holder for the sphere fixture was shaped
mostly with a fly cutter plus some enthusiastic filing.

None of the above allows speedy results but it does allow trying
things out at little expense in $ or time.

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ccarlile1 <ccarlile1@y...>"
<ccarlile1@y...> wrote:

I'm finally up and running with my new 7 X 12 and I am having
a ball! I would first like to thank all the 'old timers' (who are
probably much younger than I) for all the help I have already

gotten

from their web sites and from the user groups on the Internet.
Unfortunately for my bank account, I have also found that
milling is almost a necessity in this hobby and I am looking for
alternatives to a milling machine. I discovered Varmit Al's site

and

the attachment he designed for a lathe and also found the $129
milling attachment at LittleMachineShop.com. Can anyone offer
comments on this approach to milling on the lathe -- both the pros
and cons?
Many thanks in advance, Clay

Clay,

I agree with the other two responses. However, while I would not
purchase a milling attachment, you may wish to try the Varmint Al
homemade approach as an exercise. And to keep the cost of the
experiment down, instead of a small vise just make a device similar to
the multiple screw clamping unit of the Sieg milling atachment out of
either heavy channel or fabricate it with aluminum plate and cap
screws. Just attach it with a single bolt into the compound slide
toolpost threaded hole. The single bolt will allow rotation of the
"vise".

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ccarlile1 <ccarlile1@y...>"
<ccarlile1@y...> wrote:

I'm finally up and running with my new 7 X 12 and I am having
a ball! I would first like to thank all the 'old timers' (who are
probably much younger than I) for all the help I have already gotten
from their web sites and from the user groups on the Internet.
Unfortunately for my bank account, I have also found that
milling is almost a necessity in this hobby and I am looking for
alternatives to a milling machine. I discovered Varmit Al's site

and

the attachment he designed for a lathe and also found the $129
milling attachment at LittleMachineShop.com. Can anyone offer
comments on this approach to milling on the lathe -- both the pros
and cons?
Many thanks in advance, Clay

Clay
The mill/drill being offered by Homier might be an alternative, it is 199.00
which is only 70.00 than the attachment and will do a lot more work
Clint

Clay,
I've travelled the same road you are embarking on.
I've milled on my 7x12 and on a Burke horizontal miller I bought
last fall. I used the Taig milling attachment on my 7x12. You can
get it for $47 from www.discountcampus.com . Click on "Taig" and
look for part # 1220. It's not quite as nice as the LMS one you
saw, but it is a lot cheaper, and works OK for what it is.

However, aside from the low cost and space saving aspect of milling
on the lathe, I can't think of many other positives. I much prefer
milling on my Burke. The working envelope on the lathe is very
small. Depending on the part you're trying to make, and the setup,
you usually only have an inch or so of movement along the y and
z axis. This is the biggest limitation.

I completed two little projects using the Taig attachment on the
lathe before a dedicated mill became "a necessity" for me.

Even if you only have the space for one of the mini-mills, I think
it offers more flexibility than trying to mill on the lathe.
Plus, it's just more fun to have a real mill.
So, if it was me starting over, knowing what I know now, I'd
probably skip buying the milling attachment for the lathe and look
for a mill from the get go.
B Flint



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ccarlile1 <ccarlile1@y...>"
<ccarlile1@y...> wrote:

... I have also found that

milling is almost a necessity in this hobby and I am looking for
alternatives to a milling machine. I discovered Varmit Al's
site and the attachment he designed for a lathe and also found
the $129 milling attachment at LittleMachineShop.com. Can anyone
offer comments on this approach to milling on the lathe -- both
the pros and cons?
Many thanks in advance, Clay

Thank You,
Paul G

www.cnczone.com

I'm finally up and running with my new 7 X 12 and I am having
a ball! I would first like to thank all the 'old timers' (who are
probably much younger than I) for all the help I have already gotten
from their web sites and from the user groups on the Internet.
Unfortunately for my bank account, I have also found that
milling is almost a necessity in this hobby and I am looking for
alternatives to a milling machine. I discovered Varmit Al's site and
the attachment he designed for a lathe and also found the $129
milling attachment at LittleMachineShop.com. Can anyone offer
comments on this approach to milling on the lathe -- both the pros
and cons?
Many thanks in advance, Clay

Neil,
I don't know if this is exactly what you're looking for, but here are
a couple of URLs that define symbols and standards.





B Flint

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Neil" <cobra_neil@a...> wrote:

Would any of you be able to point me to a decent online

tutorial/reference

of CAD drafting standards? Been a looonnnggg time since I've done

any of

this, and I want to re-learn the symbols for finish types, which

lines to

use for what, etc.

Thanks,
-Neil.

Would any of you be able to point me to a decent online tutorial/reference
of CAD drafting standards? Been a looonnnggg time since I've done any of
this, and I want to re-learn the symbols for finish types, which lines to
use for what, etc.

Thanks,
-Neil.

This answers some of the questions, like line styles, etc.
That leaves finish marks as the biggest open question.

Thanks,
-Neil.

Here's a pretty comprehensive article on parting:


20tooling/Parting%20Off/

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., franksjoy@a... wrote:

I have experienced all the problems with parting and, as one member

said,even

turned the chuck by hand. With my 7X14 the circuit breaker trips as

soon as

the tool hogs. I'm attempting to make a small crankshaft for a

model rotary

engine and there is a strong thrust to the piece as it rotates. I

have fed as

little as .0001 per turn what really amounts to a scrape. Can

anyone explain,

technically, why parting is so difficult?
Max

russlbowen1958 wrote:

I know large machines

BTW, your initial post implied you have some experience with large
lathes. You can make the 7x12 work. I have had fair success at this
with absolutely no prior experience and that is inspite of severe
visual impairment of retina disease.

The concern with the 7x12 mini-lathe should be that, as a previous
reply stated, it is something of a pre-assembled kit which must be
reassembled. These issues are in general concerning backlash
adjustment, gib finish and adjustment, and similar items.

Also see Frank's website www.mini-lathe.com if not already employing
this valuable resource.

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., franksjoy@a... wrote:
Can anyone explain,

technically, why parting is so difficult?
Max

This isn't the technical explanation, but from what I understand
parting off requires slow speed and heavy feed, so what is needed is
high power. If say if a real 1-hp ac constant speed motor were
available, geared down to the necessary low fpm, and an extremely
sharp tool is in use, and everything is rigid, then one could apply
the heavy feed and watch the work's parting line peel right off.

Since we're stuck with the motor arrangement (barring substantial and
expensive mods) only rigidity and tool quality and sharpness can be
controlled and tuned/improved.

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "russlbowen1958
<moldproducts@a...>" <moldproducts@a...> wrote:

Craig:
I guess my biggest problem is not having hands on experience

Absolutely, and cannot be correctly without considerable airfares -
shudder!.

1) I'm guesiong that the chinese lathes are good enough to hold +/-
.0005 on a .5 to 2" diameter x 1" Long. so why pay $3500. for the
Prazi, when for $1200 - $1500. you can have the lathe with all
accessories?

This observation is rather like a Hundai vs BMW comparison; fit,
finish, refinement, etc., which I think is accurate regarding the
subject lathes.

2) If this is the case is the lathemaster 8 x 14 the one to have or
is it just a smaller 9x20? (I'm not impresed with the jet 9x20)

Here's a webpage of an individual with some experience on a couple of
the subject lathes:

3)Is the Micro Mark as good as it looks or are there electrical
problems with the variable speed as in others?

The MicroMark is a Sieg 7x12 lathe like the others; Grizzly, Homier,
HF, Northern Tool, Enco, etc.

4) Are the older atlas or south bend lathes better or worse at
holding tolerances than the chinese?

No experience here, but I wish we lived in the world of the past with
such as these available new.

I appreciate all the help I can get. The problem is if I ask a
dealer these questions they always try to build up thier product and
downgrade the others.

No arguement from me on this.

Craig

Al,

I like your idea of turning the lathe manually. I have been wanting
to make a crank arrangement for threading manually, but had not
thought of using the same method for parting off.

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "fromday2 <aldayis@a...>"
<aldayis@a...> wrote:

I have the HF QCTP and have had the same problem. As others have
stated slow speed is an answer. I have even turned off the lathe

and

turned the chuck by hand while feeding the cross slide, it worked
very well, much better than you might think.

HTH

Al Day


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wdannhardt <wdannhardt@y...>"
<wdannhardt@y...> wrote:

I recently purchased a 7 x 12 mini lathe, and so far it has been
wonderful, I am very satisfied. I purchased a quick change tool
holder from HF, and with a modification to the compound, now have
easy tool height adjustment. The only tool I have problems with

is

the cut off tool.

I am using a .062" x .5" HSS tool, cutting brass and Aluminum. I
always seem to get terrible chatter. I made sure the saddle,

cross

slide and compound are very tight to the ways, but it still

happens. WD

Sometimes, though, a nice finish cut is needed and the work has no
place to clamp in the chuck for a finish facing cut, or may be marred
by the chuck (although brass shims may be used in this case).

Frequently order of operations may solve the above, but sometimes not.

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal
<roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote:

There's also a lot to be said for hacksaw parting, followed by a
facing cut :-)

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Frank Hoose <fhoose@y...>

wrote:

I tend to use the cutoff tool only for stock 1/2" dia.
or less. For bigger stuff, I use the bandsaw.

Frank Hoose


--- "Craig C. Hopewell
<chopewel@r...>"
<chopewel@r...> wrote:

I've had similar problems. First make sure the "T"
type parting tool
is absolutely perpendicular to the work because that
type tool has no
side relief. Try lowering the tool a few
thousandths below center.

A tool ground from square stock (a lot of grinding)
with side reliefs
tends to work better for me, but has some limitation
on cutting depth.

Parting off is, to me, difficult and slowing the
lathe down as is
necessary for such operations reduces motor power.

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "bbftx
<bflint@a...>"
<bflint@a...> wrote:

WD
How big a diameter are you trying to part off? A

lot of people

have difficulties with this. It gets dicey on my

7x12 on anything

more than 1-1/8" in diameter. I seem to get the

best results

slowing the rpms way down, as low as I can go with

the speed

control. Also, I make sure I have as little of

the parting tool

as possible hanging out from the tool holder.
B Flint


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wdannhardt

<wdannhardt@y...>"

<wdannhardt@y...> wrote:

The only tool I have problems with is
the cut off tool.

I am using a .062" x .5" HSS tool, cutting brass

and Aluminum. I

always seem to get terrible chatter. I made

sure the saddle,
cross

slide and compound are very tight to the ways,

but it still

happens.

Does anyone have any suggestions to make this

better?

I've not heard of anyone else complain about

this, so I think it

must be something I am doing.

WD

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I have experienced all the problems with parting and, as one member said,even
turned the chuck by hand. With my 7X14 the circuit breaker trips as soon as
the tool hogs. I'm attempting to make a small crankshaft for a model rotary
engine and there is a strong thrust to the piece as it rotates. I have fed as
little as .0001 per turn what really amounts to a scrape. Can anyone explain,
technically, why parting is so difficult?
Max

The product reviews at:

are accurate and honest. The Asian minis can meet your accuracy
needs; they may need some tweaking - the basic pieces are decent, fit
& finish can be improved. In my less charitable moments, I refer to
them as "lathe kits," to be finished by the buyer.
Unless you can afford a Hardinge, everything will have
shortcomings.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "russlbowen1958
<moldproducts@a...>" <moldproducts@a...> wrote:

I'm so confused. The more I read about mini lathes, the more
uncertain I become on which one to buy. I've read that Prazi is

the

best at close tol.work, but is +/- .0005 close for 1" dia. x 1"long
420 stainless steel? Shouldn't the asian lathes do that? What

does

Prazi give you for $1000 - $2500 extra dollars? And which report do
you believe? Is the Taiwan built CH 350 the best or does the

aluminum

bed blow it? Then I read that the LatheMaster 8 x 14 is the new
champ, and the 9 x 20s are crap. Some say that the older american
lathes like atlas or south bend are better than the new chinese
machines but I find that hard to believe. They were probably good

40

years ago but even China is not that far behind. To me the Micro -
Mark 7 x 14 looks good, but without being able to see eone or run

one

I am trying to rely one reports I read on the internet. But they
seem to be of all different opinions. Can you guys help me out? I
Own a company that designs and builds small inserts for the

plastics

industry. I am really looking for a toy that can also make small
inserts from 420 Stainless Steel @ 33 HRc. I know large machines
(Mazak, Lablond, Clausen etc. but can't seem to get a straight read
on the small market. You guys know this market. Help!