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Well, you needed an excuse to buy a mill anyway. You won't regret having one. Frank Hoose http://www.mini-lathe.com --- Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

The quality varies from machine to machine, but from what I have seen and heard, has steadily gotten better over the last few years. The new ones are usually very good right out of the box, although

Shimming is valid; I suspect they'd replace your lathe with current production, not an exact duplicate of original. Shimming is also much easier to undo than cutting ;-) Roy times, and wonder if I do

Point well taken Roy, although I have contacted Homier several times, and wonder if I do exercise the option to return the lathe, if they will give me the "newer" style 7 X 12, or another of the older

My thinking on a flycutter was primarily for surface finish. With either an endmill or a flycutter it's going to require multiple passes of light cuts. With no rational reason, I prefer the appearance

My thinking on a flycutter was primarily for surface finish. With either an endmill or a flycutter it's going to require multiple passes of light cuts. With no rational reason, I prefer the appearance

I can appreciate your concerns completely and had for some months prior to purchasing a Homier 7X12 been paralyzed due to same. Any of the 7X1x lathes will be somewhat deficient if real precision is

I guess it all comes down to this: If money and space were no object, then a brand new South Bend 10" or one of the other lathes out there would fill the bill. On the other hand, for hobby/limited

I realize a new lathe needs to be adjusted and tweaked but yall are getting into milling and shimming a new lathe to get it to line up right. Is this typical for these Asian lathes. If I couldnt get

Roy: I am wondering if using end mills might be better suited in correcting the base, due to the limited amount of stock that needs to be removed from each surface, especially when quasi machining in

I think this a case of one gets what one pays for. There are some nice German lathes of a similar size but four to five times the price, at least in the UK. For many hobbyist buying cheap and getting

A milling machine is the nicest way, but, a cross-slide milling attachment (Varmint Al's) and a fly cutter will work. Once the errors are "mapped," mount the pieces (with shims) to indicate the same

Thanks for the site Frank, now all I need do is purchase a mill and some extras to accomplish this task! Nick Frank Hoose <fhoose@...> wrote:Rick Kruger has posted some info on aligning the ts:

Rick Kruger has posted some info on aligning the ts: http://warhammer.mcc.virginia.edu/ty/7x10/vault/Members/RickKruger/Tailstock/BaseMod/MillingBase.html --- Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

Roy: Should the material be removed from the base or the tail stock casting, or both? I imagine it will require setting either piece accurately in all three planes prior to cutting. How should the

My choice would be cutting on the tailstock. A number of people have found that the tailstock machining is not parallel to the bed/headstock axis. You've now got room to correct errors without having

Good Afternoon All: Finally got most kinks out of my alignment problems with replacement parts from Homier. Headstock, saddle, cross-slide and compound assemblies were replaced. Accuracy is

Rick's got a great idea. The same thought occurred to me when I was last making a backing plate. Maybe I'll try that on this next one. Here's a link for those who may wonder what were talking about:

Frank, I haven't made by backing plate yet either, but I have some materials for it. I have a nice 1" thick piece of 5" diameter 12L14 that I am going to use. I read about Rick Kruger's adjustable

Hi, Flint. I bought the 5" chuck, but have not had time yet to make the backing plate. For those who are interested, the following link has lots of info on chuck options for the minilathe, and a link