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Somehow, I thought there was some significance to a hole that was just under .22! There's a bit of amateur barrel-making advice at yarchive.net/metal/barrel-drilling.html (Google "gun barrel boring" if that doesn't work).
I once went round the BSA (Birmingham Small Arms) factory here in the UK, to see how their Martini action .22 target rifles were made. At the end of the barrel production line there was an old guy equipped with a couple of wooden blocks, a hammer and a convenient window. His job was to straighten the the things up after all the machining, and he did it well - my 1960's model still shoots better than I can.
Andy

taurokm3 <grimjack@...> wrote:
The material is 4140 Steel, and it will go in the chuck, it would go
through the spindle, but I have no way to clamp it to the face plate.
This is going to be a gun barrel. It is .770" diameter and 8
inches long (total), with a tip that is 1" x .950" I am thinking of
building some v notched clamps out of aluminum that would bolt to the
faceplate, with notches for the bolts so I can center the stock. It
has been suggested that I weld a standard bit to a length of drill rod
with a V and use that, I just don't know what kind of hole that would
give me.
Thanks
Doug

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <John@...> wrote:

Are you drilling this hole into material that can be held in the lathe
chuck? Material dimensions and the material type would be helpful info.

The technique is straight forward (but tedious) if the material fits
in the chuck. Best situation is if the material fits through the
spindle, of course.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "taurokm3" <grimjack@> wrote:

Any one have any thoughts on the best way to go about a deep hole
without buying a deep hole rig? I am currently experimenting with a
home made drill, .175 x 11" shank with a .218 x 1" head, and I want to
mill it to a flat on top and bottom, then sharpen it like a twist
drill. I know it will need cleared frequently, and a lot of lube.
BTW, I am using oil hardening drill rod for the bit. Any one have any
other ideas?

---------------------------------
Yahoo! Mail is the world's favourite email. Don't settle for less, sign up for your freeaccount today.

A gun barrel is not an easy thing to drill accurately. Some rather specialized machinery is utilized.

Granted yours is a short barrel but take a look around here for some ideas as to how they're made:

Specifically look here:


It is my understanding that a gun drill is a special lathe with a hollow drill (not a twist bit by any means) that floods the cutting edge with lots of oil for lubrication, cooling and chip removal.

There is an awful lot of info on rifles, shooting and some on barrel making on the web site above. The barrel is rather critical in the performance of the gun. I wouldn't attempt one on a mini-lathe myself.

How do you plan to rifle the barrel?

G'day Patrice

Sounds a good idea. BUT ihave looked on the Southbend10k group and
can't find the data base, where is it?

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "borenson444" <strempe4@...>
wrote:

Hi

I am a Southbend lathe owner that created a database of past

messages

for the Southbend groups a while ago. Since the resource seems to be
useful, I thought I'd maybe try and add one or two new ones.

Metalwork

being my hobby, this group seems interesting.

So I am asking permission from the administrator as well as from

members.

I hope that this message will be moderated to see if it's ok as I
would not want to post something I am not supposed to.

Thanks for your time.

Patrice

The material is 4140 Steel, and it will go in the chuck, it would go
through the spindle, but I have no way to clamp it to the face plate.
This is going to be a gun barrel. It is .770" diameter and 8
inches long (total), with a tip that is 1" x .950" I am thinking of
building some v notched clamps out of aluminum that would bolt to the
faceplate, with notches for the bolts so I can center the stock. It
has been suggested that I weld a standard bit to a length of drill rod
with a V and use that, I just don't know what kind of hole that would
give me.
Thanks
Doug

Two thumbs up....
I think it would be a great addition to the group
cheers

Patrice,

Just a member here, but it sounds like a FINE idea considering the lack
of Yahoo search capabilities.

Jeff

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 4/11/2007 at 4:28 PM borenson444 wrote:

Hi

I am a Southbend lathe owner that created a database of past messages
for the Southbend groups a while ago. Since the resource seems to be
useful, I thought I'd maybe try and add one or two new ones. Metalwork
being my hobby, this group seems interesting.

So I am asking permission from the administrator as well as from members.

I hope that this message will be moderated to see if it's ok as I
would not want to post something I am not supposed to.

Thanks for your time.

Patrice

-
Demand Designs
Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing


jdemand@...
-

Hi

I am a Southbend lathe owner that created a database of past messages
for the Southbend groups a while ago. Since the resource seems to be
useful, I thought I'd maybe try and add one or two new ones. Metalwork
being my hobby, this group seems interesting.

So I am asking permission from the administrator as well as from members.

I hope that this message will be moderated to see if it's ok as I
would not want to post something I am not supposed to.

Thanks for your time.

Patrice

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Chris Eilbeck <chris@...> wrote:

On Mon, Apr 09, 2007 at 10:02:50PM -0000, Ian Foster wrote:

G'day Chris,
You need to taper the work piece to start with so do this by the

offset

tail stock method. Follow by cutting your thread with the same

lathe

settings.

How do you firmly hold the work in the chuck when you've got the

tailstock

centre offset?

You don't hold the work in the chuck. You turn between centers...mount
a MT#3 center in the headstock and a MT#2 in the tailstock. Drive the
work with a lathe dog.

Charlie

On Mon, Apr 09, 2007 at 10:02:50PM -0000, Ian Foster wrote:

G'day Chris,
You need to taper the work piece to start with so do this by the offset
tail stock method. Follow by cutting your thread with the same lathe
settings.

How do you firmly hold the work in the chuck when you've got the tailstock
centre offset?

A taper attachment controlling the cross slide, but I don't think many
people have them.

CHEAT! Use pipe threading dies; traditional water pipe threads were
tapered. Go to your local plumber.

Managed to buy an imperial tap/die set with a 1/8" NPT die in it this
afternoon.

Try Googling Tool Timez; they export to Oz from the UK. You could mail
order from Ozmestore in Oz, try them on eBay; I get good stuff from them.

Thanks. Just got a lead locally so I'll chase that one first.

Chris
--
Chris Eilbeck
MARS Flight Crew
UKRA #1108 Level 2 UYB
Tripoli UK Member #9527 LSMR

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...> wrote:

It's not the one I used years back which went milky-white with
water. The EP690 apparently goes translucent blue. Is that your
recollection? But if it works and is available...

Blackwoods list it in 4 and 20 litre containers.

It certainly started off a translucent blue when mixed. The stuff
that was in the machine tanks looked like cyan coloured milk (ugh!),
but just how long some of that stuff in those tanks had been there
would be anyone's guess...

Cheers,
Andrew.

G'day all
Mike said: "..learn how to use the lathe making projects that don't
require extreme accuracy. Your skills will keep improving..
...by the time the lathe's misalignments start to really cramp the
way you use it, you'll be skilled enough that tweaking it will be
fairly easy"
PEARLS OF WISDOM.
IMHO the least accurate part of the lathe, even out of the box, is
just in front of the cross slide feed handle.

Also ,as your skill increases you will learn to work around the
idiosyncrsies. Finally they will bug you too much and then you'll
tackle the problem.

The old adage; measure twice, cut once applies; assume nothing.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

That's the way I did it, fixing the inner locknut with Loctite so the
outer one can be used for mounting my handcrank (and several other
accessories). I wrote something on how to make it some time ago, and put
a picture in the photo section under "Mike T's Stuff," but it was a reply
to someone's question on doing heavy cuts, so the title isn't helpful to
retrieve it. Here it is again with an appropriate title.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"

-------------

Another way to do heavy work is by dispensing with the motor and putting
a crank on the spindle. Most of these designs connect to the spindle by
some kind of expanding plug in the bore, but I made one that would leave
the bore open for work so I made one that fastens to the outside of the
spindle using one of the spindle lock nuts What I did was to lock the
inside nut with Loctite so the outside one is no longer needed and I can
use it to hold items on the crank by pinching them between the two nuts.
Here's a photo of my crank. It's made of two pieces of 2" angle iron,
one bored to fit on the spindle and the other drilled for the arm of the
crank. I epoxied these together with JB Weld to move the arm out enough
out to clear the gears. (A crank on the outside has to be designed to
clear gears in the "A" position, so you can cut threads with the crank.
I made this crank so it would clear a 60-tooth gear, which I doubt I'll
ever need to exceed.

The arm itself is made of wood and held on with 4 bolts, and the handle
is a steel tube that's a loose running fit over a lag screw (with the
hex-head filed round) that's screwed and epoxied into the end of the
arm. I made the arm of wood to save metal and also so I could reuse this
handle, which I made for my original crank (which was entirely made of
wood and would be satisfactory for light duty). You can get different
lengths of crank for leverage by drilling multiple holes in the wooden
part. The black thing on the left is an old footpeg rubber from my
motorcycle, which I put on the handle of the crank when I'm doing REALLY
heavy cuts to save wear & tear on my hand. With this crank, I can turn
iron and steel up to the full 7" swing of the lathe.

When using any crank, you should move the high/low lever to the middle
position. That way, if you accidentally turn the motor on without
removing the crank, it will spin harmlessly. Also, the crank turns
easier with the motor and its gears out of the system.


Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"

On Tue, 27 Mar 2007 01:42:16 -0000 "born4something"
<ajs@...> writes:

Unless this 5.5" rod is something critical for a project you're doing, I
would forget about theoretical misalignments of things at this point
(except the tailstock, which is always wrong horizontally and often wrong
vertically by huge amounts). Instead, learn how to use the lathe making
projects that don't require extreme accuracy. Your skills will keep
improving, and by the time the lathe's misalignments start to really
cramp the way you use it, you'll be skilled enough that tweaking it will
be fairly easy.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"


On Sat, 24 Mar 2007 22:49:09 -0000 "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> writes:

I can be a little thick, but I think I finally got it. Good advice on
the switch - I didn't think of the consequences flipping it while
running. Thanks, Ian.

G'day Chris,
You need to taper the work piece to start with so do this by the offset
tail stock method. Follow by cutting your thread with the same lathe
settings.

A taper attachment controlling the cross slide, but I don't think many
people have them.

CHEAT! Use pipe threading dies; traditional water pipe threads were
tapered. Go to your local plumber.

Try Googling Tool Timez; they export to Oz from the UK.
You could mail order from Ozmestore in Oz, try them on eBay; I get good
stuff from them.

One good turn deserves another,
Regards
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Chris Eilbeck <chris@...> wrote:

Is it possible to turn a tapered thread on the mini-lathe? I'm

thinking

something like a 1/8" NPT external thread.

Cheers

Chris

PS Clues about where to buy an internal threading tool in the UK

would be

useful too.
--
Chris Eilbeck
MARS Flight Crew
UKRA #1108 Level 2 UYB
Tripoli UK Member #9527 LSMR

G'day Ed.
THe meter looks nice, but whenever you are doing any heavy work it
will be reading in the uncalibrated over range area. Does MPJA have a
0-6 amp meter with over range? Minimum meter must be 0-5 amps with
over range scale.
You really want to know the stall current which can be up to two
times the nameplate current. loading the drive to just under this
gets best use fo the lathe.
To be of more than pose value the meter needs to be where you can see
it as you operate the feed screws.

Meters are designed to be left in circuit. (multimeters are not)

A switch is NOT RECOMMENDED unless it simply shorts out the meter.
The motor cicuit must not be interrupted during operation and the
spdt switch you propose would open the circuit mometarilly, enough to
harm the drive.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ed" <edo@...> wrote:

"Does it matter if the meter is on the + or - side?"

The reason I asked was to determine whether or not I could put the
meter between the Direction Switch and the Motor. Since the switch

(I

assume) reverses polarity, I now know it'll only work there in one
direction.

I convinced myself that I can get away with a 5A meter instead of

ten,

but now that I see my motor is rated at 3A (regardless of voltage),
I'm looking at a 3A one with a red over-range scale.


Do you think this one would work? I think it would look pretty good
mounted in the side of the electronics box (and we all know it's all
about aesthetics.) I'd mount a SPDT switch with it to turn it off

when

I'm not using it just in case it doesn't like being on for long

periods.

Ed

Is it possible to turn a tapered thread on the mini-lathe? I'm thinking
something like a 1/8" NPT external thread.

Cheers

Chris

PS Clues about where to buy an internal threading tool in the UK would be
useful too.
--
Chris Eilbeck
MARS Flight Crew
UKRA #1108 Level 2 UYB
Tripoli UK Member #9527 LSMR

"Does it matter if the meter is on the + or - side?"

The reason I asked was to determine whether or not I could put the
meter between the Direction Switch and the Motor. Since the switch (I
assume) reverses polarity, I now know it'll only work there in one
direction.

I convinced myself that I can get away with a 5A meter instead of ten,
but now that I see my motor is rated at 3A (regardless of voltage),
I'm looking at a 3A one with a red over-range scale.


Do you think this one would work? I think it would look pretty good
mounted in the side of the electronics box (and we all know it's all
about aesthetics.) I'd mount a SPDT switch with it to turn it off when
I'm not using it just in case it doesn't like being on for long periods.

Ed

The tool used to drill a deep straight hole is a D bit. You can see
what a D bit looks like at this site:


There used to be info on making D bits on some of the yahoo groups
dedicated to metal working.

Charlie

FYI, the waiting list appears to be at
,
however, it seems to be of 0 length. So it looks like there's no
waiting. :)



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@...> wrote:

You can open it up to 13/16". In the "links" section of the 7x10

group

there's something for "Al's Reamer", since it was Varmint Al who
started the whole thing. There are a couple of reamers circulating
around from user to user. Chris (of LMS fame) provides adult
supervision to keep things moving.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <botmom@> wrote:

Some where I read there is a way to Bore out the SPINDLE /

HEADSTOCK

Does any one know where the information is and/or how much can it

be

opened to?
Thanks;
John Fetz