Keyboard Shortcuts
ctrl + shift + ? :
Show all keyboard shortcuts
ctrl + g :
Navigate to a group
ctrl + shift + f :
Find
ctrl + / :
Quick actions
esc to dismiss
Likes
- 7x12MiniLathe
- Messages
Search
|
Re: Photos: Ammeter, swarf collector, saddle lock
I tried that too, but Yahoo Search wasn't being very cooperative. I
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
finally found it - there's no space between 7x10 and minilathe! Nice pics. Where'd you get the meter? How well does that aluminum tray work as a way cover? I just finished writing the G-Code to cut a piece of HDPE that'll wrap around the saddle, fill the gap in between the traveling steady screws, and extend out 2" to act as a way cover (kinda like your tray does.) Now I know where to post pictures when I'm done. Thanks, Ed G'day Ed |
|
Re: I snapped a Carriage Retainer
Marty N
Hi Vince:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I started with a 10" and as you see, building a 14" (15") but pretty much the same critter as you rightly suspect. If you take anything away from the set I built make it that it is flat and square, it's important. To get both with a stand off set screw system as they have the gib thus need be stiff. If they are allowed to bow or twist then you will not get full contact but point contact. That will wear things faster than hard gibs. You found out the factory gib isn't very stiff at all. Brass won't be either, but if your committed to that material then may I suggest that you compliment the set screws with two shims on the out side edges, one each end and full width of the saddle register? This is because it is a rare machine in which the bottom of the saddle where you fix the gib is parallel (end for end OR side to side) with the beds lower edge and while you can compensate for that to some degree with the set screws it makes it hard to get the gib square with the way. It will add support to the flexible plates. Unless you've worked the bottom of the way flat and parallel to the top you will find tight and loose spots. Make your adjustment over a tight area or it will bind latter when the saddle travels over those points. 90% of the work is done by the rear gib unless you have a rear mount tool post for parting or other work get that one as good as you can. Marty ----- Original Message -----
From: n1vc To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 9:51 PM Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: I snapped a Carriage Retainer Marty, Way to go! My milling skills have a long way to go to duplicate. My lathe is actually a 7X10 but I jumped up to this group assuming the design is the same and I could thereby get more coverage on my question. Thanks, Vince --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote: > > Vince: > > > > Bottom of second page should give you some idea. Your experience is exactly why I've done what I've done. > > Marty > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: n1vc > To: 7x12minilathe@... > Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 5:22 PM > Subject: [7x12minilathe] I snapped a Carriage Retainer > > > > I tried to snug up my carriage on the gibs. It had too much slop and I > tried to make the adjustments. I should have read the LMS manual first > and followed their procedure but I didn't. I overtightend one end and > I snapped it. The <1/4" strip with set screws seems to be made out of > cast iron as it was very brittle and snapped easily when overstressed. > My question is why can't I substitute a piece of plain old steel for > this task? Alternatively, I can easily order a replacement but it > might again be cast iron. > > Really my question is the part made of this material for economy or am > I missing some other point here? > > thanks much, > Vince > > > > > > > |
|
Re: I snapped a Carriage Retainer
G'day Vince.
As I said in my last post I haven't found the need to do anything to my saddle keep plates yet, yet. The prevailing wisdom seems to be to ditch the setting grub screws and use shims. There is a Loctite which will hold without fixing for good. LMS may have screws with nylon lock strips, they certainly do in smaller sizes. I recall Marty's site has dimensions for drilling the holes, if not Varmint Al's. Regarding the tinning, for bearing surfaces I use lead free electronics solder which is 97% tin. A bit more lead would be helpful. 40%Pb 60%Sn is plumbers solder which you should be able to get from the plumbing section of a good hardware store in either stick or roll form. The rosin flux in roll solder can be a pain. Must go. Church is having a celebratory feasat tonight to mark Easter and I'm the chief cook and bottle washer. One good trun deserves another. Regards, Ian |
|
Re: I snapped a Carriage Retainer
Ian,
I looked at your photo and that broken retainer sure resembles mine! I do have a mini-mill and I will look for some brass plate. I do not have any transfer punches but will consider. Question on the solder..I have electronic solder I think 60-40. It tins up copper wire pretty well, I would assume this is what I am looking for? How about the adjustment screws? Do you still keep the locking retainer nut as the original? Mine has headless 5mm setscrews with the nuts over the top. What is your technique for stopping the set screws from turning? thanks, Vince --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ian Foster" <fosterscons@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: I snapped a Carriage Retainer
Marty,
Way to go! My milling skills have a long way to go to duplicate. My lathe is actually a 7X10 but I jumped up to this group assuming the design is the same and I could thereby get more coverage on my question. Thanks, Vince --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote: exactly why I've done what I've done.
|
|
Re: Photos: Ammeter, swarf collector, saddle lock
G'day Ed
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Read my lips<G>! Get yourself into "7x10 minilathe-photos" It is a relatively new group with the overflow of the 7x10 group. Note the title of the group is as I have shown it vis "7x10 minilathe-photos" ; it then has Message, File and Photo sections like any other group. There appear no limits on access or membership. OGTDA Regards, Ian --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ed" <edo@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Ammeter/Parting
Jeff Demand
Marty,
Thanks, I usually use eye ball numbers and yours are a very good start. Now to just get the time to grind a standard tool and one like yours... Jeff * REPLY SEPARATOR * On 4/7/2007 at 7:22 PM Marty N wrote: Jeff thanks for the photo tip. I'll give it a try sometime. and about .090" wide. The relief then steppens to 20 degrees for the the tip of the vee is about 1.170". The vee is 90 degrees included and back to the square which is .140" . Side taper from top to bottom is about 10 degrees included. Hope that helps.9:30 PM - Demand Designs Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing jdemand@... - |
|
Re: Ammeter/Parting
Marty N
Jeff thanks for the photo tip. I'll give it a try sometime.
On center if I understand your question correctly. I sent Clint what I hope is a clearer picture a bit closer. Getting a snap of the front end was a disaster. The upper point of the vee is the first thing to contact the material. From the side view the relief under the point is 10 degrees back and about .090" wide. The relief then steppens to 20 degrees for the remainder. The square portion is .310" as is the round. From the square to the tip of the vee is about 1.170". The vee is 90 degrees included and .150 from the tip to the flat. The tool tapers from the vee in width from .180" back to the square which is .140" . Side taper from top to bottom is about 10 degrees included. Hope that helps. Marty, Very interesting looking tool, thanks for the photos! Does the holder locate the top of the vee on centre or above. It reminded me of a shearing type tool, front straight across with rake, some back rake with the top angled downwards from left to right, left corner above centre but it only cuts at the intersection of centre. Supposed to give a very nice finish. Before I face the joys of grinding of a cobalt HSS blank some more info would be appreciated. Jeff PS: Standard jewellery photo technique for polished metal is a light diffusion tent, AKA a white bed sheet or piece of paper between the light and the metal. Diffused light = diffused reflections |
|
Re: I snapped a Carriage Retainer
G'day Vince.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
You appear to not be alone, though I haven't yet done it myself. See WWW.Mini-lathe.com/Mini_Lathe/modifications/modifications.htm. I would not advocate using any material harder than the cast iron of the lathe bed. The mini-lathe mods use brass. For me I would heavily tin the brass first The reason is that swarf, dust etc WILL contaminate the sliding surface, it will preferrentially abrade the softer material. Tinning the brass has the property of enclosing the contaminant keeping it out of harms way. Use a high % tin alloy solder. It will take more bedding in than a plane brass retainer but will be worth it in the long run. You can scrape the tinned surface to flatten it. I understand the tinning also maintains a better oil film. One good turn deserves another. Regards, Ian --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "n1vc" <n1vc@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: I snapped a Carriage Retainer
Marty N
Vince:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Bottom of second page should give you some idea. Your experience is exactly why I've done what I've done. Marty ----- Original Message -----
From: n1vc To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 5:22 PM Subject: [7x12minilathe] I snapped a Carriage Retainer I tried to snug up my carriage on the gibs. It had too much slop and I tried to make the adjustments. I should have read the LMS manual first and followed their procedure but I didn't. I overtightend one end and I snapped it. The <1/4" strip with set screws seems to be made out of cast iron as it was very brittle and snapped easily when overstressed. My question is why can't I substitute a piece of plain old steel for this task? Alternatively, I can easily order a replacement but it might again be cast iron. Really my question is the part made of this material for economy or am I missing some other point here? thanks much, Vince |
|
Re: Ammeter/Parting
Jeff Demand
Marty,
Very interesting looking tool, thanks for the photos! Does the holder locate the top of the vee on centre or above. It reminded me of a shearing type tool, front straight across with rake, some back rake with the top angled downwards from left to right, left corner above centre but it only cuts at the intersection of centre. Supposed to give a very nice finish. Before I face the joys of grinding of a cobalt HSS blank some more info would be appreciated. Jeff PS: Standard jewellery photo technique for polished metal is a light diffusion tent, AKA a white bed sheet or piece of paper between the light and the metal. Diffused light = diffused reflections * REPLY SEPARATOR * On 4/7/2007 at 5:03 PM Clint D wrote: The photos look well to me, good job on them, they are now uploaded to- Demand Designs Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing jdemand@... - |
|
I snapped a Carriage Retainer
I tried to snug up my carriage on the gibs. It had too much slop and I
tried to make the adjustments. I should have read the LMS manual first and followed their procedure but I didn't. I overtightend one end and I snapped it. The <1/4" strip with set screws seems to be made out of cast iron as it was very brittle and snapped easily when overstressed. My question is why can't I substitute a piece of plain old steel for this task? Alternatively, I can easily order a replacement but it might again be cast iron. Really my question is the part made of this material for economy or am I missing some other point here? thanks much, Vince |
|
Re: Photos: Ammeter, swarf collector, saddle lock
G'day Ed et al.
Look for photos in "7x10 minilathe-photos" group. John found them OK and hes an Ozzie. Being a DIYer from way back I baulked at having somebody else post my photos. No disrespect to this group or its moderators intended. At least we stay somewhere near the topic and reasonably civil towards each other. To ALL: I confer a Joyous, Releasing and Renewing Easter. God's good turn deserves another. Yours! Regards & blessings, Ian |
|
Re: Ammeter/Parting
Clint D
The photos look well to me, good job on them, they are now uploaded to Marty's Folder
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Clint Marty N wrote: Okay John: |
|
Re: Ammeter/Parting
Clint D
Marty
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I am now going in to upload the photos for you shorty, I will call your album Martys Folder Clint Marty N wrote: Okay John: |
|
Re: Ammeter/Parting
Marty N
Okay John:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I sent a few snaps to Clint. This thing does not photograph well as it is too shiny. A bit of candle black helped some pictures and hurt others. Bottom and side views pretty good but the most important, top faceting, drove me nutty in attempt. Gadgetbuilder, man, I'm sorry :-( Total space city. Marty ----- Original Message -----
From: born4something To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 2:28 AM Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Ammeter/Parting Hi Marty, You WILL be posting some nice close-up picks of that parting tool and especially the business end, won't you? John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Marty N" <martyn@...> wrote: > > > G'day Jim > > <snip> > I am hoping the meter will be useful when parting off as I frequently > stall the lathe, even with a 1/16 blade. That is why I wanted it at a > place where I can see it when operating the cross slide. It certainly > confirmed I need to change out the horse power resistor; I got short > changed. > > Regards > Ian > > Ian and All: > > Late last fall I bought a SB 10L that had a large box of tooling, fixtures > etc. Last night I was rummaging the larger box for the face plate and ran > across a shoe box sized container of boring and parting tooling. Most of > this looks to have never been used. On one of the boring bars was engraved > "Green 1924". I assume the person or shop that purchased the tooling and > date. Much of it is "micro" sized and appears to all be of the same > manufacture which I have yet to ascertain, but maybe not all the same time > period (packaging). One of the tools I can only imagine is a parting tool > and thus the snip from Ian's post. > > This tool doesn't even look like a tool but like a piece of fine jewelry! > I've never seen anything like it. All surfaces are as if you are looking > into a mirror they are that highly polished but it is the geometry of the > tool that is most intriguing. It is multi faceted like a gem stone. "T" form > parting blades or those ground from tool steel blanks "Plow" to the center > of the work with a bit of top and side relief curling the chip straight back > over the blade. This tool splits the chip or "curl" and directs it by a > complex set of angles away from a sinlge point of contact. Think of a "V" > form snow blade. The address must be critical as the matching holder and the > operator end of the tool only permit mounting to a "fixed" address it seems. > > Point of this was that as I looked at this tool, and after the amazement of > the find disapated a bit, was that this shape would use very little power to > do a great deal of cutting. It would also apear this tool is designed to > part and face both faces of the parted stock in one operation! > > Anyway, I has me thinking that shape and address has more to do with power > requirement than just the brute force of plunging a square faced tool into > the stock. Now I wish I wouldn't have opened the package :( > > Marty > |
|
Segregate and lable your powders
druid_noibn
Hi All,
And then there was the case of the hobbyist/machinists/amateur telescope maker who mixed up the bottles of Molykote (it was an old bottle) with the bottle of very fine carborundum (an equally old bottle). He never finished his mirror and the ball-screws got sloppy. Take care, DBN |
|
Re: Photos: Ammeter, swarf collector, saddle lock
I can't seem to find the pictures. I don't see any recently posted
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
pics in the 7x10 group (or here.) Where'd you find them, John? Ed --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...> wrote:
|
to navigate to use esc to dismiss