7x12MiniLathe@groups.io

Re: Chip Guards

I did think of the rubber strip from the mini-mill a year or so and gave up on trying to to get hold of one as a spare.

I have a laminator and your suggestion looks well worth a try.

thanks

Gerry
Leeds UK
From: "jabba0737" <silleag@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Chip Guards
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 22:22:08 -0000

I have seen many examples of people installing a chip guard on their
lathes to deflect chips from the ways and leadscrew. I really liked
the idea of using a bellows rubber sheet as fitted to the mini mill
,but I cannot find a supplier here in the UK.
I am aware that The Little Machine Shop sells this but is out of stock
and anyway with import costs the price would be unattractive. Then it
dawned on me that I could make my own, from materials that are easily
available ,namely lamination sheets.
Using an A4 lamination sheet of 125 microns I passed it through the
laminater without any insert, and then by scoring the sheet with the
back of a hobby knife across every 1/2 inch and turning the sheet over
with every score , finally fold on all the scorings to produce a
viable bellows sheet. If the sheet is ever damaged or wears out it can
be easily replaced . The resultant film is strong enough to fix
directly with screws to the travelling steady fixings on the
crossslide.I have also made one with a sheet of coloured paper in the
lamination this works fine but is slighty stiffer and more difficult
to fold , but not impossible !
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Re: Bed extention for a micromark 7x14

#18625

Hi Mike,

Yes, I was thinking of it on a rubbing block or whatever you might
fabricate. This tape has pretty good abrasion and cut resistance and
is very slippery. I used it years ago as glides on some equipment
that was a very close fit inside a pressure housing. I had no room
for little rollers or mechanical slides so I used this slippery tape.

I quoted those numbers off a box sitting under my bench. After I
posted that message I Googled it and found some silly prices like
$60 for an 18m roll. You could ask 3M to refer you to a reseller. If
you just want a bit to try it out, drop me an email off-list with
your address and I'll put a metre of it in the mail to you. I'm in
Oz so it won't come overnight (maybe a week). That box has been
sitting there maybe 10 years but the contents look fine.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Mike Payson" <mike@...> wrote:

On 3/26/07, born4something <ajs@...> wrote:
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Paul Moir" <paul.moir@>wrote:

I'm thinking something like rubber pinch rollers from a coupleold
cassette players or VCRs or something rather than hardbearings.

Or tape. Have you come across 3M's Scotch brand 5423 UHMW tape?It's a
polyethylene film with rubber adhesive. Pretty handy stuff. Notcheap as
tapes go but it may be cost effective if the alternative is a bed
extension.Hi John,

Just out of curiosity, how would you use tape in this application?Is
it just to put over the steady rest fingers to prevent marking, oram
I missing something? An d where can you find it? I found one store
online that sells it by the case, but I don't really need $600worth
of tape right now. Any good sources?

Thanks.

Re: Harbor freight 8x12 lathe (cheap digital calipers)

#18624

Hi Druid,

I guess that means you have the same calipers as I got. Have you
used them with the LMS cable? Vikki pointed out that cable to me but
I wasn't really sure about it from the LMS pic so I was going to ask
more details.

I bought the 6" calipers (came in a red plastic box). Mine aren't
for DRO on the lathe so I need to cobble my own interface
electronics and software together.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...>
wrote:

Hi John,

  I also bought the calipers from 8oowatt but the cheapskatedidn't give me all the extra batteries <smile>.  In truth, I haven't
had a problem with 800watt.

  The installed batteries routinely fail - hence the added battey - cheap insurance.

  As for the cable - you can get it at LMS - I believe it is item#1990 
ProductID=1990&category=

  Some solder the wires in.  Also, look at replacing the batterywith a small tantalum electrolytic cap. and a ceramic cap. when
using the scales with a DRO-350.  The DRO supplies the power and the
capacitors filter the noise.  You could use the battery but it will
need to be replaced every so often.

  Take care,
  DBN

born4something <ajs@...> wrote:
          Hi,

Firstly, I should report back on the original topic. I followed up
800watt on eBay and ordered several calipers from him. Yes, hewill
ship international on request. As people here said, his
communication is pretty terse and speed is not his forte.

The parcel took 18 days to get to me in Australia. But arrive itdid
and the calipers are fine. All 3 managed to turn themselves on in
transit as their hard cases allow enough movement to touch the
buttons on the protective foam - a nick with the penknife will fix
that. They arrived with displays flashing indicating lowbatteries.
However, each was packed with a spare battery and he threw in a
bonus strip of 5 extra batteries.

Now, who knows how to interface to the data port on these things?
They seem to take some sort of miniature 4-pin plug. What are they
called - anyone got a part number? Anyone know the pinout and data
format?

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@>
wrote:

Thanks,

Some of 800WATT's listings look pretty good - except he lists asUS
only. :-(

Maybe I'll politely ask.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@>
wrote:

Hi John,

Just two-more-cents-worth...

One might take a quick look on some of the eBay offerings.For
example, a vendor "800WATT" sells the calipers item at goodprices -
watch the s/h charges however. Also, this vendor has a low score
due to his poor communications style and often a bit long on
delivery time. I've purchased several items from him and allworked
out well. I've also purchased a larger caliper from Australiaand
it arrived faster than the items from the US vendors.

Take care,
DBN


born4something <ajs@> wrote:


Hi,

I see lots of interest in cheap digital calipers - presumeablyfor
DRO
mods. Not sure if this helps but there are some at
ID=TD2081&CATID=&keywords=TD208&#92;
1&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=
&pr&#92;
iceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=
<ID=TD2081&CATID=&keywords=TD20&#92;
81&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber
=&p&#92;
riceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=> that may be of interest.

Ignore the listed price. I can buy these at Qty 1+ $12.77 Qty5+
$11.77
Qty 10+ $10.77 (10% GST not inlcluded). The prices are inAussie
dollars
which sit around the $US0.75 mark. I'd probably wear about$AU12
in
freight to get a delivery to my door.

I haven't physically seen one of these so the catalogue entryis
all I
have. Perhaps a 1-off retail purchase should come first. Ifsomeone
wants to buy some I'm happy to act as middle man. If a fewpeople
were
closely located a bulk buy may be attractive. Contact me offlist
if
you'd like to explore details.

John
(not associated in any way with the supplier, other than as atrade
customer).

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mrslushy" <MrFrost@>wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" rupps@wrote:

Chris,

You're not the only one that missed it. However I am about2
weeks
away
from ordering. I missed the $16 dig. caliper too.

Rance (sittin & watching the prices)

LMS currently has 6" digital caliper for 14.95.....check itout.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Re: Harbor freight 8x12 lathe (cheap digital calipers)

#18623

Crikey Miss Vikki,

That just might be it. Can't quite tell from the pic but LMS are
pretty helpful so I'll ask them.

Thanks a heap,
John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> wrote:

 [ .... ]
  Hi David,

  Thanks for that link. That saves me having to reverse engineerthe
  data format off the scope. A source of connectors would benice.
  Maybe I need to buy spare parts from a DRO maker.
[ ... ]ProductID=1990&category=

Not positive this is what you are looking for, but it looked likeit
might be?!?

Not connected in any way to LMS, just they are about all thereis :-).

Hope this helps!

Take care, Vikki.

Re: Harbor freight 8x12 lathe (cheap digital calipers)

andrew franks

#18622

John
  PS Also try  
  Andy

andrew franks <andyf1108@...> wrote:
          John, you may find Scott Shumate's website useful on the "pin-outs" and other details. See particularly  (for clarity, that's "chinese_scales")

Hope this helps.
Andy

born4something <ajs@...> wrote:
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Aaron Pasteris" 
<aarons_groups@...> wrote:

Solder + 5-minute epoxy = instant connectorHi Aaron,

Don't worry. I've yet to be defeated by a mere connector. I was just 
hoping to flush out a more kosher solution!

John

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Re: Harbor freight 8x12 lathe (cheap digital calipers)

andrew franks

#18621

John, you may find Scott Shumate's website useful on the "pin-outs" and other details. See  particularly   (for clarity, that's "chinese_scales")

  Hope this helps.
  Andy
  
born4something <ajs@...> wrote:
          --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Aaron Pasteris" 
<aarons_groups@...> wrote:

Solder + 5-minute epoxy = instant connectorHi Aaron,

Don't worry. I've yet to be defeated by a mere connector. I was just 
hoping to flush out a more kosher solution!

John

---------------------------------
 The all-new Yahoo! Mail goes wherever you go - free your email address from your Internet provider.

Re: Harbor freight 8x12 lathe (cheap digital calipers)

#18620

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Aaron Pasteris"
<aarons_groups@...> wrote:

Solder + 5-minute epoxy = instant connectorHi Aaron,

Don't worry. I've yet to be defeated by a mere connector. I was just
hoping to flush out a more kosher solution!

John

Re: Taper - I think I have a problem?!

wrlabs

#18619

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...>
wrote:

G'day John, Vikki.
I think I may have raised the issue of the coarseness of the LMS
mod..

If you do the mod using a 6mm screw then the thread pitch is 1.0mm.
One turn of the nut/screw moves the TS 1mm or 40thou. Add in backlash
in the nut, screw and bracket and you are left with a very touchy
adjustment.Touchier  than what I am doing now ?!?  Seems it would have to be an
improvement for the front to back adjustment whatever it was.  No way
that I can see to do that with the stock arrangement other than screwing
with it until you hit it (been doing that all night :-).

If you put the adjuster in the back access is restricted by the cam
lock modification. If you put it on the front it risks fouling the
compound slide.I may well hold off on that one until, at least, I get the cam lock in
place and see what I have there.

Lathes like the Southbend (and the Hercuses I know) have screws on
opposite sides of the TS foot which engage a tongue in the TS body
(or is it the other way round). Tightening these screws against each
other gives a very fine adjustment because you use the spring in the
screws and naturally takes out the backlash.LOL, at the moment I I'm wishing I had one of those ;-)!

I have looked at an adaption of the the LMS mod to use two nuts which
tighten against the bracket, the problem is access restrictions
caused by the cam lock.

Here is a case where I would be happy to be proved wrong!I'm certainly not going to be the one that does it, I don't think :).

BTW; LMS have again served me well, goods arrived in under 7 working
days from US to Oz.Done well in getting stuff to me quickly enough too.

I'm been working at getting this under control all evening.  I'm about
at the point where I call it good enough, I think.

Got the DI in the chuck reading zero top and bottom and under 0.001 on
the front and back.

Interestingly, measuring from front of the quill (zero) to the back I am
off by about 0.003, seems that with the DI reading I shouldn't have that
?!?

Now to get if off of there and tighten down the SHCS on the bottom
without buggering it :-/.  The thought that the Chinese hate us has
occured to me ;-) LOL!

Enough for tonight !

Thanks & take care, Vikki.

Re: Taper - I think I have a problem?!

#18618

G'day John, Vikki.
I think I may have raised the issue of the coarseness of the LMS
mod..

If you do the mod using a 6mm screw then the thread pitch is 1.0mm.
One turn of the nut/screw moves the TS 1mm or 40thou. Add in backlash
in the nut, screw and bracket and you are left with a very touchy
adjustment.
If you put the adjuster in the back access is restricted by the cam
lock modification. If you put it on the front it risks fouling the
compound slide.

Lathes like the Southbend (and the Hercuses I know) have screws on
opposite sides of the TS foot which engage a tongue in the TS body
(or is it the other way round). Tightening these screws against each
other gives a very fine adjustment because you use the spring in the
screws and naturally takes out the backlash.

I have looked at an adaption of the the LMS mod to use two nuts which
tighten against the bracket, the problem is access restrictions
caused by the cam lock.

Here is a case where I would be happy to be proved wrong!

BTW; LMS have again served me well, goods arrived in under 7 working
days from US to Oz.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@> wrote:

This mod also looks like a really wise idea for a number ofreasons:

<>


Hi Vikki,

Just a word of caution.

I thought this was a brilliant idea too and was going to make one.Then
someone posted a negative comment here about it. I can't recallwhat the
issue was now. Perhaps someone will fess up to the comment? It mayhave
been the thread pitch being too coarse or something. That'saddressable
but I'd look at it closely before taking the LMS sketch at facevalue.

John



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: Homier 7x12 electronic question

rikissme

#18617

Thanks for the advice,  I called homier today and their tech support
is supposed to contact me within 48 hours ... I'll keep you posted.

Ricky

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John Ruge" <jruge@...> wrote:

I got the Homier a couple of years ago. The first time I fired itup, it ran noticably
slower in reverse than forward. I called Homier & asked about it,and they said
that the speed should be the same both ways. Whether or not that'strue, they
sent me a replacement controller board (no charge, and they didn'task for the
original back), and forward & reverse appear to be the same now. Itmight be
worth a call. (From what I remember, the board didn't arrive thatquickly. Maybe
3-4 weeks.)

John

----- Original Message -----
  From: John
  To: 7x12minilathe@...
  Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 6:49 PM
  Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Homier 7x12 electronic question

  Welcome to the group, someone here should be able to answer yourquestion.

  The controller normally provides reduced drive for reverse. Whenthe
  switch is in the Rev position, is the spindle actually turning
  backwards? (One possibility on a new machine is that the motor
  wiring is hooked up backwards...)

  John

  --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rikissme" <rikissme@>wrote:
  >
  > Hello all,
  > I've been lurking on this group for sometime while waiting toget a
  > lathe and have finally bought the 7x12 from homier. I'm excitedabout
  > learning how to use it but I seem to have a problem. The latheruns
  > smoothly in reverse but chugs along in the forward position.
  >
  > I removed the cover where the switches are and put an ohm meteron what
  > appears to be the main wires on the toggle switch (black forreverse
  > and white for forward - I think). Sure enough, I get a nicesteady
  > current when running in reverse and a weaker pulsating currentgoing
  > forward.
  >
  > Has anyone else in the group had a similar problem or have anidea how
  > to correct this?
  >
  > Thanks - Rick
  >

Re: Bed extention for a micromark 7x14

Mike Payson

#18616

On 3/26/07, born4something <ajs@...> wrote:
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Paul Moir" <paul.moir@...> wrote:

I'm thinking something like rubber pinch rollers from a couple old
cassette players or VCRs or something rather than hard bearings.Or tape. Have you come across 3M's Scotch brand 5423 UHMW tape? It's a
polyethylene film with rubber adhesive. Pretty handy stuff. Not cheap as
tapes go but it may be cost effective if the alternative is a bed
extension.Hi John,

Just out of curiosity, how would you use tape in this application? Is
it just to put over the steady rest fingers to prevent marking, or am
I missing something? An d where can you find it? I found one store
online that sells it by the case, but I don't really need $600 worth
of tape right now. Any good sources?

Thanks.

Re: Harbor freight 8x12 lathe (cheap digital calipers)

Druid Noibn

#18615

Hi John,
   
  I also bought the calipers from 8oowatt but the cheapskate didn't give me all the extra batteries <smile>.  In truth, I haven't had a problem with 800watt. 
   
  The installed batteries routinely fail - hence the added battey - cheap insurance. 
   
  As for the cable - you can get it at LMS - I believe it is item #1990  

  Some solder the wires in.  Also, look at replacing the battery with a small tantalum electrolytic cap. and a ceramic cap. when using the scales with a DRO-350.  The DRO supplies the power and the capacitors filter the noise.  You could use the battery but it will need to be replaced every so often. 
   
  Take care,
  DBN
  
born4something <ajs@...> wrote:
          Hi,

Firstly, I should report back on the original topic. I followed up 
800watt on eBay and ordered several calipers from him. Yes, he will 
ship international on request. As people here said, his 
communication is pretty terse and speed is not his forte.

The parcel took 18 days to get to me in Australia. But arrive it did 
and the calipers are fine. All 3 managed to turn themselves on in 
transit as their hard cases allow enough movement to touch the 
buttons on the protective foam - a nick with the penknife will fix 
that. They arrived with displays flashing indicating low batteries. 
However, each was packed with a spare battery and he threw in a 
bonus strip of 5 extra batteries.

Now, who knows how to interface to the data port on these things? 
They seem to take some sort of miniature 4-pin plug. What are they 
called - anyone got a part number? Anyone know the pinout and data 
format?

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...> 
wrote:

Thanks,

Some of 800WATT's listings look pretty good - except he lists as US 
only. :-(

Maybe I'll politely ask.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@> 
wrote:

Hi John,

Just two-more-cents-worth... 

One might take a quick look on some of the eBay offerings. For 
example, a vendor "800WATT" sells the calipers item at good prices - 
watch the s/h charges however. Also, this vendor has a low score 
due to his poor communications style and often a bit long on 
delivery time. I've purchased several items from him and all worked 
out well. I've also purchased a larger caliper from Australia and 
it arrived faster than the items from the US vendors.

Take care,
DBN 


born4something <ajs@> wrote:


Hi,

I see lots of interest in cheap digital calipers - presumeably for 
DRO
mods. Not sure if this helps but there are some at
ID=TD2081&CATID=&keywords=TD208&#92;
1&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=
&pr&#92;
iceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=
<ID=TD2081&CATID=&keywords=TD20&#92;
81&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber
=&p&#92;
riceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=> that may be of interest.

Ignore the listed price. I can buy these at Qty 1+ $12.77 Qty 5+ $11.77
Qty 10+ $10.77 (10% GST not inlcluded). The prices are in Aussie dollars
which sit around the $US0.75 mark. I'd probably wear about $AU12 in
freight to get a delivery to my door.

I haven't physically seen one of these so the catalogue entry is all I
have. Perhaps a 1-off retail purchase should come first. If someone
wants to buy some I'm happy to act as middle man. If a few people 
were
closely located a bulk buy may be attractive. Contact me off list 
if
you'd like to explore details.

John
(not associated in any way with the supplier, other than as a trade
customer).

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mrslushy" <MrFrost@> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" rupps@ wrote:

Chris,

You're not the only one that missed it. However I am about 2 weeks
away
from ordering. I missed the $16 dig. caliper too.

Rance (sittin & watching the prices)

LMS currently has 6" digital caliper for 14.95.....check it out.







---------------------------------
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with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.




         

 
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 Get more visitors on your site using Yahoo! Search Marketing.

Re: Harbor freight 8x12 lathe (cheap digital calipers)

wrlabs

#18614

 [ .... ]
  Hi David,

  Thanks for that link. That saves me having to reverse engineer the
  data format off the scope. A source of connectors would be nice.
  Maybe I need to buy spare parts from a DRO maker.
[ ... ]

Not positive this is what you are looking for, but it looked like it
might be?!?

Not connected in any way to LMS, just they are about all there is :-).

Hope this helps!

Take care, Vikki.

Re: Taper - I think I have a problem?!

Aaron Pasteris

#18613

The adjuster could be modified to use a differential screw adjustment
External thread the adjuster nut to a 24 pitch  and get an ~96 pitch movement (or 40 pitch for a 160 pitch movement)

Aaron

Show quoted text

----- Original Message ----- 
  From: born4something 
  To: 7x12minilathe@... 
  Sent: Monday, March 26, 2007 9:37 PM
  Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Taper - I think I have a problem?!

  --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> wrote:
  >
  > This mod also looks like a really wise idea for a number of reasons:
  >
  > 
  <>

  Hi Vikki,

  Just a word of caution.

  I thought this was a brilliant idea too and was going to make one. Then
  someone posted a negative comment here about it. I can't recall what the
  issue was now. Perhaps someone will fess up to the comment? It may have
  been the thread pitch being too coarse or something. That's addressable
  but I'd look at it closely before taking the LMS sketch at face value.

  John

Re: My 8x12 is here :) (Cleaning it up)

Druid Noibn

#18612

Hi Rance,

  Just an FYI..in case you didn't pick up on it earlier... The manual is not 100% accurate <smile>.

  The drawings and sizes of the gear hardware, (axels, clip rings, etc...) might not match.  Make notes.  

  Take care,
  DBN


rancerupp <rupps@...> wrote:
          Thanks for the info. I'll just make my own pan, just wanted to know
if it was missing. Their packing list leaves a lot to be desired.
Same for the manuals. But that's just part of this cheap-lathe-
game. :D

I already got a couple of the cheap oil cans from HF. I can modify
one for the ball valves. Thanks again guys.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...>
wrote:

Under a baby lathe which I own, I fitted a ?2/$4 baking tray to actas a chip pan. At 14", it wouldn't be long enough for the 8x12, but I
wonder if bigger ones are available for commercial bakeries.
Andy


Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...> wrote:
Hi,

The 8x12 does not come with a chip pan and HF doesn't sell one.

As for the oil valves - HF does have a small pump oiler - I pickedone up at the local store a couple of weeks ago. I'll have to find
the # and post it.

Take care,
DBN




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Re: Taper - I think I have a problem?!

#18611

Hi Vikki
 Oops, sorry about misspelling your name. I should have paid closer
attention. (I do suffer from ADD and dain bramage.)
  6-32 is a good "starter size" because if this size proves to be too
small or weak for the job (at times I've had to put a lot of torque on
the Tee wrench to get everything perfect on a particular job) it will
be very easy to move up to an 8-32 then 10-32 screw size due to the
common thread pitch; however, 6-32 is VERY course which makes this
size one of the more difficult to cut without breaking a tap.
(Breaking a tap will really ruin your day. 10-32 will prove to be a
much easier size to tap without breakage. That said, cast iron tends
to be an easy material to tap. If you go with 10-32 you'll soon
discover that your 4mm metric Tee driver fits the screw head better
than the 5/32" wrench that 10-32 SHCS's were designed to take.)
Remember that stainless "steel" really isn't steel (it's stainless
iron) and not as strong as your standard black (usually grade 5 or 8)
SHCS's. This is especially true of common 300 series (non-magnetic)
stainless fasteners.
   I've never done a camlock conversion although this particular
upgrade will make life much easier. Instead I simply cut a 17mm
combination wrench in two. I use the box end (which is slightly
offset) for tightening my tailstock nut. (My tailstock nut is a 10mm
acorn nut.) The offset box end combined with the acorn nut makes
adjustments "fairly" easy. I was all set to make life much easier and
convert to a camlock but before this happened (I kept putting it off)
I had occasion to drill some very large holes using the tailstock
chuck. I discovered that unless the tailstock base nut was VERY tight,
I would get some tailstock movement/slipage. You can get the tailstock
locked down much tighter using a wrench. (The threading on the base
screw gives you more mechanical advantage than a cam.) If you never
drill holes larger than 1/2", slippage shouldn't be much of a concern
with a camlock. Trying to tighten the tailstock with a straight open
end wrench (like the one that came with the lathe) WILL drive you nuts
quickly. The reason the camlock is so popular is not becasue it saves
your wrist and hand but because it's SO much more accessable. You
don't have to worry about those tricky tightenings when you have to
work around (under) the cross slide dial. This is where having an
offset 12 point box wrench makes things easier but not quite as easy
as a camlock.
   I would only make the LMS tailstock adjuster (your included link)
if I had to often offset the tailstock to cut long tapers. This
modification will make it much easier to move the tailstock by minute
amounts but you'll still have to cut test pieces to make sure your
adjustment is perfect. Of course once you get the tailstock adjusted
to zero taper (using any method), you'll likely want to mark the upper
and lower parts of the tailstock (straight chisel mark, two punch
marks or a scribed line) so you can get back to zero (or near zero)
quicker if you do offset the tailstock to cut a long taper. Unless you
need as much space as possible between centers it will be much easier
to do longer tapers (i.e. too long to use the compound) by mounting a
boring head in the tailstock.

      Bruce

Show quoted text

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> wrote:

Hello Bruce,

Thanks VERY much for you comments here, after a night to think on the
problem and your comments as well as some from other folks here, I have
a much better head space :-) on the problem!

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Bruce Leo Hartmann"
<goodsnout@> wrote:

Vikki,

   Not being very bright ot talented, I (correctly) figured I could
never get my headstock and tailstock in perfect allignment But I
figured that even though not understanding all (or any) of the various
published methods of achieving perfection in this area, I could get
close enough (via perseverance and dumb luck) to do acceptable work.That seems to be where I am at :-).

   I lucked out in the first instance by getting a really well made
old style Homier. The old style Homiers and Cummins lathes use two
rear set screws instead of the one central set screw used on the Seig
machines. This difference alone makes the allignment MUCH easier
provided that these set screws are immediately replaced with 6mm
SHCS's. On a seig machine, holes would need to be drilled and taped
for these invaluable "adjustment" screws.Just went in there and looked at the back of the tailstock and that idea
makes so much sense as to be staggering.  I have some 6-32 stainless
screws that I think will work for this and may put this idea into
practice today!  Smacking the tailstock back and forth with the jewelers
hammer is an exercise in frustration and does nothing for the paint :-).

Out of PURE frustration (and sore wrists :-), I ordered the cam lock kit
last night from LMS.  Cranking that bolt tight and loose is far more of
a job than I want to do constantly in this process (now or in the
future).  I'd read in a great number of places that the cam lock is one
of the best mods one can make and I now understand *exactly* why that is
:-).

This mod also looks like a really wise idea for a number of reasons:



With the addition of two screws spaced out on the back and the tailstock
adjuster life should be a LOT easier.

The first step is to get the
allignment "close."
[ ... ]Rather than commenting (cluelessly :) on the rest of this, I copied it
out and printed it for inclusion into my Shop Notebook to study while I
go through this and future reference.  Utterly excellent!

   I'm sure this is NOT the professional or approved method of
alligning the head and tailstocks but it has worked very well for me.As I have heard somewhere, if it is stupid and it works, it is not
stupid :-).

The good news here, I think, is that I am getting over the aversion to
doing anything to the lathe, sorta like the new car syndrome :-).

Thanks VERY much and take care, Vikki.

Re: Harbor freight 8x12 lathe (cheap digital calipers)

Aaron Pasteris

#18610

Solder + 5-minute epoxy = instant connector

Show quoted text

----- Original Message ----- 
  From: born4something 
  To: 7x12minilathe@... 
  Sent: Monday, March 26, 2007 8:54 PM
  Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Harbor freight 8x12 lathe (cheap digital calipers)


  Hi David,

  Thanks for that link. That saves me having to reverse engineer the 
  data format off the scope. A source of connectors would be nice. 
  Maybe I need to buy spare parts from a DRO maker.

  Interestingly, I have calipers with two different connector 
  geometries. Both have the 4 gold-flashed PCB fingers but the 
  surrounding plastic differs. One is as shown at your link. The other 
  is more enclosed and clearly needs a differently housed plug. That's 
  what I love about standards - there's always such variety to choose 
  from!

  John

  --- In 7x12minilathe@..., figNoggle <david@...> wrote:
  >
  > 
  > 
  > hi john-
  > 
  > <>
  > 
  > it was nice of the seller to provide extra batteries. going into a 
  local
  > drug store to buy replacements is very pricey.
  > 
  > hope this helps!
  > david
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > MetalWorkingFAQ.NET - Over 50 content sites! 
  <>
  > CNC, Plans/Kits, 8x12 Lathe, Mini-Mill, How-Tos 
  <>
  > Sieg X3/Super X3 Mill Information, HF/Enco Coupons 
  <>
  > 
  > On Mon, 26 Mar 2007, born4something wrote:
  > 
  > > Hi,
  > >
  > > Firstly, I should report back on the original topic. I followed 
  up
  > > 800watt on eBay and ordered several calipers from him. Yes, he 
  will
  > > ship international on request. As people here said, his
  > > communication is pretty terse and speed is not his forte.
  > >
  > > The parcel took 18 days to get to me in Australia. But arrive it 
  did
  > > and the calipers are fine. All 3 managed to turn themselves on in
  > > transit as their hard cases allow enough movement to touch the
  > > buttons on the protective foam - a nick with the penknife will 
  fix
  > > that. They arrived with displays flashing indicating low 
  batteries.
  > > However, each was packed with a spare battery and he threw in a
  > > bonus strip of 5 extra batteries.
  > >
  > >
  > > Now, who knows how to interface to the data port on these things?
  > > They seem to take some sort of miniature 4-pin plug. What are 
  they
  > > called - anyone got a part number? Anyone know the pinout and 
  data
  > > format?
  > >
  > > John
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@>
  > > wrote:
  > > >
  > > > Thanks,
  > > >
  > > > Some of 800WATT's listings look pretty good - except he lists 
  as
  > > US
  > > > only. :-(
  > > >
  > > > Maybe I'll politely ask.
  > > >
  > > > John
  > > >
  > > >
  > > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Druid Noibn 
  <druid_noibn@>
  > > > wrote:
  > > > >
  > > > > Hi John,
  > > > >
  > > > > Just two-more-cents-worth...
  > > > >
  > > > > One might take a quick look on some of the eBay offerings.
  > > For
  > > > example, a vendor "800WATT" sells the calipers item at good
  > > prices -
  > > > watch the s/h charges however. Also, this vendor has a low 
  score
  > > > due to his poor communications style and often a bit long on
  > > > delivery time. I've purchased several items from him and all
  > > worked
  > > > out well. I've also purchased a larger caliper from Australia 
  and
  > > > it arrived faster than the items from the US vendors.
  > > > >
  > > > > Take care,
  > > > > DBN
  > > > >
  > > > >
  > > > > born4something <ajs@> wrote:
  > > > >
  > > > >
  > > > > Hi,
  > > > >
  > > > > I see lots of interest in cheap digital calipers - 
  presumeably
  > > for
  > > > DRO
  > > > > mods. Not sure if this helps but there are some at
  > > > > 
  > > > ID=TD2081&CATID=&keywords=TD208&#92;
  > > > >
  > > >
  > > 
  1&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=
  > > > &pr&#92;
  > > > > iceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=
  > > > > <
  > > > ID=TD2081&CATID=&keywords=TD20&#92;
  > > > >
  > > >
  > > 
  81&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber
  > > > =&p&#92;
  > > > > riceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=> that may be of interest.
  > > > >
  > > > > Ignore the listed price. I can buy these at Qty 1+ $12.77 
  Qty 5+
  > > > $11.77
  > > > > Qty 10+ $10.77 (10% GST not inlcluded). The prices are in 
  Aussie
  > > > dollars
  > > > > which sit around the $US0.75 mark. I'd probably wear about 
  $AU12
  > > in
  > > > > freight to get a delivery to my door.
  > > > >
  > > > > I haven't physically seen one of these so the catalogue 
  entry is
  > > > all I
  > > > > have. Perhaps a 1-off retail purchase should come first. If
  > > someone
  > > > > wants to buy some I'm happy to act as middle man. If a few
  > > people
  > > > were
  > > > > closely located a bulk buy may be attractive. Contact me off
  > > list
  > > > if
  > > > > you'd like to explore details.
  > > > >
  > > > > John
  > > > > (not associated in any way with the supplier, other than as a
  > > trade
  > > > > customer).
  > > > >
  > > > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mrslushy" <MrFrost@>
  > > wrote:
  > > > > >
  > > > > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" rupps@ 
  wrote:
  > > > > > >
  > > > > > > Chris,
  > > > > > >
  > > > > > > You're not the only one that missed it. However I am 
  about 2
  > > > weeks
  > > > > away
  > > > > > > from ordering. I missed the $16 dig. caliper too.
  > > > > > >
  > > > > > > Rance (sittin & watching the prices)
  > > > > > >
  > > > > > >
  > > > > > LMS currently has 6" digital caliper for 14.95.....check it
  > > out.
  > > > > >
  > > > >
  > > > > 
  > > > >
  > > > >
  > > > >
  > > > >
  > > > >
  > > > >
  > > > > ---------------------------------
  > > > > No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
  > > > > with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
  > > > >
  > > > > 
  > > > >
  > > >
  > >
  > >
  > >
  >

Re: Threading and using the Dial

#18609

Hi Roy,

I was wondering about utilising the locknut on the end of the
spindle. This would have the advantage of keeping the spindle free
for long jobs. Anyone else looked at this?

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@...> wrote:

The most common methods use something that expands into the HSbore,
attached to the actual handcrank.  One style uses a diagonally cut
piece that expands into the HS bore when it's tightened; exactlylike
a bicycle handlebar adjuster.  The other style uses a double-
expanding concrete anchor to grip the bore.  You'll want about a6"
lever arm with some flavor of knob.  If you can get one, an oldvalve
handwheel works nicely, as does a defunct ball joint in a piece of
flat stock.

 

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., <gregorstransky@> wrote:

Does anybody know a procudure how to make a handcrank? A whileago
I ran
across a procedure on one of the lathe/minilathe/machiningwebsites. But I
do not remember any more which website that was.
Thank you.
Gregor Stransky, San Antonio, Texas

----- Original Message -----
From: "roylowenthal" <roylowenthal@>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 9:15 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Threading and using the Dial


The handiest threading accessory you can make is a handcrank!
Particularly on short, shouldered pieces turning the lathe byhand
gives more torque & much better control.

Re: Taper - I think I have a problem?!

#18608

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> wrote:

This mod also looks like a really wise idea for a number of reasons:

<>


Hi Vikki,

Just a word of caution.

I thought this was a brilliant idea too and was going to make one. Then
someone posted a negative comment here about it. I can't recall what the
issue was now. Perhaps someone will fess up to the comment? It may have
been the thread pitch being too coarse or something. That's addressable
but I'd look at it closely before taking the LMS sketch at face value.

John

Re: Bed extention for a micromark 7x14

#18606

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Paul Moir" <paul.moir@...> wrote:

I'm thinking something like rubber pinch rollers from a couple old
cassette players or VCRs or something rather than hard bearings.

Or tape. Have you come across 3M's Scotch brand 5423 UHMW tape? It's a
polyethylene film with rubber adhesive. Pretty handy stuff. Not cheap as
tapes go but it may be cost effective if the alternative is a bed
extension.

John

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