开云体育

Solder + 5-minute epoxy = instant connector

G'day John, Vikki.
I think I may have raised the issue of the coarseness of the LMS
mod..

If you do the mod using a 6mm screw then the thread pitch is 1.0mm.
One turn of the nut/screw moves the TS 1mm or 40thou. Add in backlash
in the nut, screw and bracket and you are left with a very touchy
adjustment.

If you put the adjuster in the back access is restricted by the cam
lock modification. If you put it on the front it risks fouling the
compound slide.

Lathes like the Southbend (and the Hercuses I know) have screws on
opposite sides of the TS foot which engage a tongue in the TS body
(or is it the other way round). Tightening these screws against each
other gives a very fine adjustment because you use the spring in the
screws and naturally takes out the backlash.

I have looked at an adaption of the the LMS mod to use two nuts which
tighten against the bracket, the problem is access restrictions
caused by the cam lock.

Here is a case where I would be happy to be proved wrong!

BTW; LMS have again served me well, goods arrived in under 7 working
days from US to Oz.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@> wrote:

This mod also looks like a really wise idea for a number of

<>


Hi Vikki,

Just a word of caution.

I thought this was a brilliant idea too and was going to make one.

someone posted a negative comment here about it. I can't recall

issue was now. Perhaps someone will fess up to the comment? It may

been the thread pitch being too coarse or something. That's

but I'd look at it closely before taking the LMS sketch at face

John



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I got the Homier a couple of years ago. The first time I fired it

slower in reverse than forward. I called Homier & asked about it,

that the speed should be the same both ways. Whether or not that's

sent me a replacement controller board (no charge, and they didn't

original back), and forward & reverse appear to be the same now. It

worth a call. (From what I remember, the board didn't arrive that

3-4 weeks.)

John


----- Original Message -----
From: John
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 6:49 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Homier 7x12 electronic question


Welcome to the group, someone here should be able to answer your

The controller normally provides reduced drive for reverse. When

switch is in the Rev position, is the spindle actually turning
backwards? (One possibility on a new machine is that the motor
wiring is hooked up backwards...)

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rikissme" <rikissme@>

>
> Hello all,
> I've been lurking on this group for sometime while waiting to

> lathe and have finally bought the 7x12 from homier. I'm excited

> learning how to use it but I seem to have a problem. The lathe

> smoothly in reverse but chugs along in the forward position.
>
> I removed the cover where the switches are and put an ohm meter

> appears to be the main wires on the toggle switch (black for

> and white for forward - I think). Sure enough, I get a nice

> current when running in reverse and a weaker pulsating current

> forward.
>
> Has anyone else in the group had a similar problem or have an

> to correct this?
>
> Thanks - Rick
>

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Paul Moir" <paul.moir@...> wrote:

I'm thinking something like rubber pinch rollers from a couple old
cassette players or VCRs or something rather than hard bearings.

Or tape. Have you come across 3M's Scotch brand 5423 UHMW tape? It's a
polyethylene film with rubber adhesive. Pretty handy stuff. Not cheap as
tapes go but it may be cost effective if the alternative is a bed
extension.

Thanks,

Some of 800WATT's listings look pretty good - except he lists as

only. :-(

Maybe I'll politely ask.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@>
wrote:

Hi John,

Just two-more-cents-worth...

One might take a quick look on some of the eBay offerings.

example, a vendor "800WATT" sells the calipers item at good

watch the s/h charges however. Also, this vendor has a low score
due to his poor communications style and often a bit long on
delivery time. I've purchased several items from him and all

out well. I've also purchased a larger caliper from Australia and
it arrived faster than the items from the US vendors.

Take care,
DBN


born4something <ajs@> wrote:


Hi,

I see lots of interest in cheap digital calipers - presumeably

DRO

mods. Not sure if this helps but there are some at

ID=TD2081&CATID=&keywords=TD208&#92;

&pr&#92;

iceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=
<

ID=TD2081&CATID=&keywords=TD20&#92;

=&p&#92;

riceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=> that may be of interest.

Ignore the listed price. I can buy these at Qty 1+ $12.77 Qty 5+

$11.77

Qty 10+ $10.77 (10% GST not inlcluded). The prices are in Aussie

dollars

which sit around the $US0.75 mark. I'd probably wear about $AU12

freight to get a delivery to my door.

I haven't physically seen one of these so the catalogue entry is

all I

have. Perhaps a 1-off retail purchase should come first. If

wants to buy some I'm happy to act as middle man. If a few

were

closely located a bulk buy may be attractive. Contact me off

if

you'd like to explore details.

John
(not associated in any way with the supplier, other than as a

customer).

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mrslushy" <MrFrost@>

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" rupps@ wrote:

Chris,

You're not the only one that missed it. However I am about 2

weeks

away

from ordering. I missed the $16 dig. caliper too.

Rance (sittin & watching the prices)

LMS currently has 6" digital caliper for 14.95.....check it

---------------------------------
No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.

[ .... ]
Hi David,

Thanks for that link. That saves me having to reverse engineer the
data format off the scope. A source of connectors would be nice.
Maybe I need to buy spare parts from a DRO maker.
[ ... ]

Under a baby lathe which I own, I fitted a ?2/$4 baking tray to act

Andy


Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...> wrote:
Hi,

The 8x12 does not come with a chip pan and HF doesn't sell one.

As for the oil valves - HF does have a small pump oiler - I picked

Take care,
DBN

The most common methods use something that expands into the HS

attached to the actual handcrank. One style uses a diagonally cut
piece that expands into the HS bore when it's tightened; exactly

a bicycle handlebar adjuster. The other style uses a double-
expanding concrete anchor to grip the bore. You'll want about a

lever arm with some flavor of knob. If you can get one, an old

handwheel works nicely, as does a defunct ball joint in a piece of
flat stock.



Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., <gregorstransky@> wrote:

Does anybody know a procudure how to make a handcrank? A while

I ran

across a procedure on one of the lathe/minilathe/machining

websites. But I

do not remember any more which website that was.
Thank you.
Gregor Stransky, San Antonio, Texas

----- Original Message -----
From: "roylowenthal" <roylowenthal@>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 9:15 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Threading and using the Dial


The handiest threading accessory you can make is a handcrank!
Particularly on short, shouldered pieces turning the lathe by

gives more torque & much better control.

This mod also looks like a really wise idea for a number of reasons:

I'm thinking something like rubber pinch rollers from a couple old
cassette players or VCRs or something rather than hard bearings.

[ ... ]

vikki;
you mentioned that the part you were turning was wood. on a
typical length of wood, because of the growth rings, the density of
the wood fibers will be different. this could result in a somewhat
eliptical circumference. if by chance you took your two measurments,
90 degrees apart from each other, that could explain what has occured.
it's also possible that, depending on species, the grain, thus
density, could ghange along even a short piece of wood. just a couple
of outside the box thoughts that might explain what's gone wrong.

Hi folks,

Update...

I hath created a monster, I think :).

After loosening the socket head screw under the tailstock I

top of the tailstock flops in the X and Y axis. Raised section on

base and the slot in the tailstock itself are mismatched by (guess)

least 1/8", lotsa twist there.

Apparently that little slot head set screw on the back of the

is for adjusting the Z (?rotational) orientation. If it was ever
tightened down, it worked loose over time.

I'm not sure what I am seeing here, but I get top and bottom of the
quill to read zero (top set as reference zero) but the front (toward
operator) and back are both around 13 (plus to front, minus to

depending on the tap of the moment.

I was using the dead center for this and I thought that it was
elliptical (flattened top to bottom). So, just to see what

rotated the dead center 90 degrees expecting the top / bottom to
increase and the front / rear to decrease. Values did not

Tried this using the inside and outside of the quill and get the

kind of results.

I'm perplexed!

Putting this away for today, tired of cranking on that lock nut :-).

One another note. I was thinking it might be nice to have a place

folks could chat live, I put together a channel on

#vmmst

Standing for: Virtual Micro and Mini-Machine Shop Tavern :-).

Any IRC client will get you there set up for the network
(chat.freenode.net) and the channel (#vmmst).

IRC has gotten a bad rep for obnoxious jerks, but the exception to

I have found is freenode, my personal channel is there and I have

(in years now) to have any problem with jerks.

Only rule I have for the channel is that folks treat it like my (or
your) living room and act accordingly. I do not and will not

rude / obnoxious people. Enough said.

It's there if folks want a place to chat live, I'm there when I am

although I may be doing other things and not notice right away.

Thought it might be a nice resource.

It;s been an exciting day!

Take care, Vikki.

G'day Vikki et al.
Vikki by now you must be totally confused.

There you have generated
much useful discussion.

I forgot to answer one of your questions,
that relating to the shim between the centres. It has been answered
by others, the shim can be a razor blade even a thin steel rule,
something the points on the centres can't penetrate.

Out of all this two things come to light. Firstly you need to check
your tailstock centering every time you want to turn a long parallel
piece. This is good practice with any lathe even more so with old
lathes. Secondly your design should acknowledge that some taper is
possible. For example, I recently turned a shaft which was to have a
bearing near each end. As I turned and miked the shaft I discovered I
was turning a taper. To overcome this I turned the midddle section of
the shaft below the bearing diameter and then separately turned each
bearing section to the nominated diameter. I guess this good practice
anyway.

There is an old saying "A poor workman blames his tools". Behind this
is the fact that a good workman keeps his tools in good service but
also knows and allows for their shortcomings.
The other old saying, "measure twice and cut once". It applies to
lathes.

BTW. You can check you headstock alignment by taking off the chuck
running your dial indicator across the face of the spindle with the
DI mounted on the cross slide. I am yet to be convinced that
headstock alignment is a problem unless the lathe has been mistreated
in transport or similar accidental damage.

You can't turn longer than
3 times the job diameter so a small angular misalignment is not going
to induce much taper. Anyway the spindle axis and the cross slide
axis are not meant to be precisely perpendicular. For instance
turning across a face should cause a slight concavitiy, only a few
thou, but the concavity must be there. If not, a faced surface will
not sit flat on a truly flat surface.

Anyhow Vikki, the host of responses indicates your bower is working!

Thanks to all that responded to this query.

OK, I am *totally* intimidated after going through some of the

suggested :-(.

It is going to take a LOT more experience and especially more
understanding than I have before I start tearing down the lathe to

degree.

Of interest, I dug out that bolster bar I made out of the 1"

rod and measured that at each end (3") and it is only off by 0.001.
Chucked on one end, center drilled and supported by the live center

the tailstock.

Wonder if my problem is flex in the workpiece, as in I am hogging

It would see that would make it off in the middle were it is

though.

Yep, I am totally confused about what is going on here.

The item that was off the 0.015 was wood and I am now wondering if

centers being slightly off from the center marks (assuming they were
perfect) would cause that much difference? I would think that

that down would result in it being symmetrical / consistent from

end once it was turned down far enough?

Starting to think I really need a mentor or at least a decent course
about all this.

Thanks & take care, Vikki (The Massively Confuzed).

Does anybody know a procudure how to make a handcrank? A while ago

across a procedure on one of the lathe/minilathe/machining

do not remember any more which website that was.
Thank you.
Gregor Stransky, San Antonio, Texas

----- Original Message -----
From: "roylowenthal" <roylowenthal@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 9:15 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Threading and using the Dial


The handiest threading accessory you can make is a handcrank!
Particularly on short, shouldered pieces turning the lathe by hand
gives more torque & much better control.

hi john-

<>

it was nice of the seller to provide extra batteries. going into a

drug store to buy replacements is very pricey.

hope this helps!
david



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On Mon, 26 Mar 2007, born4something wrote:

Hi,

Firstly, I should report back on the original topic. I followed

800watt on eBay and ordered several calipers from him. Yes, he

ship international on request. As people here said, his
communication is pretty terse and speed is not his forte.

The parcel took 18 days to get to me in Australia. But arrive it

and the calipers are fine. All 3 managed to turn themselves on in
transit as their hard cases allow enough movement to touch the
buttons on the protective foam - a nick with the penknife will

that. They arrived with displays flashing indicating low

However, each was packed with a spare battery and he threw in a
bonus strip of 5 extra batteries.


Now, who knows how to interface to the data port on these things?
They seem to take some sort of miniature 4-pin plug. What are

called - anyone got a part number? Anyone know the pinout and

format?

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@>
wrote:

Thanks,

Some of 800WATT's listings look pretty good - except he lists

US

only. :-(

Maybe I'll politely ask.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Druid Noibn

wrote:

Hi John,

Just two-more-cents-worth...

One might take a quick look on some of the eBay offerings.

For

example, a vendor "800WATT" sells the calipers item at good

prices -

watch the s/h charges however. Also, this vendor has a low

due to his poor communications style and often a bit long on
delivery time. I've purchased several items from him and all

worked

out well. I've also purchased a larger caliper from Australia

it arrived faster than the items from the US vendors.

Take care,
DBN


born4something <ajs@> wrote:


Hi,

I see lots of interest in cheap digital calipers -

for

DRO

mods. Not sure if this helps but there are some at

ID=TD2081&CATID=&keywords=TD208&#92;

&pr&#92;

iceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=
<

ID=TD2081&CATID=&keywords=TD20&#92;

=&p&#92;

riceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=> that may be of interest.

Ignore the listed price. I can buy these at Qty 1+ $12.77

$11.77

Qty 10+ $10.77 (10% GST not inlcluded). The prices are in

dollars

which sit around the $US0.75 mark. I'd probably wear about

in

freight to get a delivery to my door.

I haven't physically seen one of these so the catalogue

all I

have. Perhaps a 1-off retail purchase should come first. If

someone

wants to buy some I'm happy to act as middle man. If a few

people

were

closely located a bulk buy may be attractive. Contact me off

list

if

you'd like to explore details.

John
(not associated in any way with the supplier, other than as a

trade

customer).

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mrslushy" <MrFrost@>

wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" rupps@

Chris,

You're not the only one that missed it. However I am

weeks

away

from ordering. I missed the $16 dig. caliper too.

Rance (sittin & watching the prices)

LMS currently has 6" digital caliper for 14.95.....check it

out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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