开云体育

Not to rain on anyone's parade, but there are a LOT of manuals online for free.













Charles E. Kinzer wrote:

I happened to see this on ebay when looking for something else. (I have no connection with this item). The title says 7 manuals, but it seems there are 8.



The description says:

These high quality manuals have been moved to CD ROM
They are in PDF Format and can be viewed Adobe Software
If you don't have Adobe it is a free download from their site
Easy to move to your Hard Drive or Open to View
You can print these on your printer if you want a hard copy
These are NOT viewable on your TV style DVD Player
They are Recent Manuals not old or vintage

EIGHT US ARMY MACHINIST MANUALS ON CD ROM
Band Saw Operations
Lathe Operations
Machine Shop Calculations
Metal Properties, Characteristics, Uses and Codes
Milling Machine Operations
Precision Measuring and Gages
Principels of Drafting and Shop Drawing
Shop Safety

The pricing says:

$6.95 and $5.25 shipping if to U.S. or Canada, but they ship worldwide

Chuck K.

John
I had the pleasure of building a Tangential cutter based on the
description on your web site. While it's not much for working in
brass, I find it winds up mounted on my QCTP far more often than any
cutting tool in my collection. I really love using it for turning and
facing steel, aluminum and even the odd bit of stainless. It still
amazes me at just how agressively it will cut when everything is nice
and sharp, yet it will do the finest of cuts with ease.

It's not all that difficult of a project and the results are quite
rewarding. After several months trial use, it's definitely a tool I'd
miss now that I've owned one.

I've "duplicated" a couple of the other tools shown on your site and
each added to the fun of operating my lathe, especially the tool post
mounted ball turning tool.

Steve

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <John@...> wrote:

Hi Mark,

Check Frank Ford's site for how he adapted a similar large toolholder
to fit his QCTP:

Frank has lots of interesting ideas so his site is well worth checking
out.

The toolholder in the blurry picture looks like it is made for facing
while the shank is mounted perpendicular to the spindle axis (the
normal position).

My tangential for the QCTP is similar in some ways since it can turn
or face without changing position on the toolpost - depending on the
shape of the bit, the blurry holder might be able to do the same. The
difference would be the simplicity of making a jig to sharpen the
tangential.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "markzemanek" <markzemanek@>
wrote:

Yeah, that 90 degree turn is a bit of a mystery alright.

It may not be out of the hands of the home shop machinist to build
his/her own tool holders. A short while back there was a discussion
about tangential tool holder, which for all purposes on our 7x's can
use 1/8" tool bits, and gadgetbuilder (where are ya' dude!...help me
out here...) has built a piece that sure inspires me. Before I can
make one, however, I am going to have to wait until I get myself a

mill...

Mark
==========

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Charles E. Kinzer"
<ckinzer@> wrote:

Did some minor searching and ETCO is Engineering Tooling Corp.,

"Quality Tools and Inserts for Swiss Style CNC Screw Machines"

A couple of the tool holders shown on their home page seem to hold

these inserts, just not at the 90 degree angle of the one on ebay.

The screw machine world is a bit of mystery to me. I suspect they

buy the "micro inserts" ready ground, and being small, they are

cheaper.

I suspect it would be too much of a project to make a similar tool

holder for the home shop and use small HSS tool bits.

Chuck K.

----- Original Message -----
From: markzemanek
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2007 2:12 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Anybody know what this is?


Howdy gang:

I've come across an interesting looking, alternative tool post on
ebay, of the likes I've never seen before.

The seller does not mentio what advantage it has over thet

nomral type

tool post. The photo is quite poor, and the seller further seems

more

interested in terms of payment.

Looking beyond all this, though, might anybody here know what the
application is for this type of toolpost?



Thanks, Mark

I have seen a few sites, guys cutting and adding a bed extention. I
can't find my bookmarks right now, I'll keep looking. I think I would
upgrade to a 8X or 9X if I needed a longer bed than 14 inches.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "thornappleboots"
<thornappleboots@...> wrote:

Is there a bed extention for the micromark 7x14 or plans somewhere to
make one.

Vikki
Here is some more tail stock info.

This can be a bit mind boggling at the start, just keep reading and
learning. Mr Kruger's pages help me a LOT. My TS is repeatable to
.0003 after 8-10 hours of work (head scratching).

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "thornappleboots"
<thornappleboots@...> wrote:

Is there a bed extention for the micromark 7x14 or plans somewhere to
make one.

Have a look here:


It shouldn't be too different for the x14 than the x12 or x10.

I think that screw is supposed to stop the tailstock sliding. Not a lot of use, really, unless you set up your lathe on a steep hillside.
A

rancerupp <rupps@...> wrote:
Well, I just dove in with both feet to get it cleaned up. I decided
to go ahead and disassemble the cross slide, compound, and tailstock
for the cleaning. Since the parts were away from the lathe, I just
used paint thinner for cleaning. I didn't find much more than a
little protective layer of grease, really not much. Oh, I did find
some surface rust on the cross slide. I bit the bullet and got after
it with some 400 grit and that was that. A bit of it was on the under
side of the cross slide but I think it will be ok. It was at the very
end.

Got it all put back together lubricating with Mobil 1 as I went. It
seemed to go back together well. I had to tinker with the nut for the
screw on the compound. If you don't get it juuuuuuuust right, the
compound gets tight at one end of travel. Maybe I shouldn't have
removed it for cleaning. No big deal. I may have to fiddle more with
that later.

I still have to degrease the pullys on the HS before crankin it up.
I'm thinking that removing them would be prudent. Two have clip rings
and the one on the 'other' end of the spindle has a threaded nut. Any
one know of a reason I shouldn't remove these for cleaning?

One thing I was pleasantly surprised with when I first got to looking
closer to my new toy was to see all the oil ports with the check
balls. However, could someone tell me what kind of oil can or spout I
need to oil those things? Is there a special fitting on oil cans for
those?

Lastly, during the unpacking from the crate, I found one loose screw
rolling around underneath the lathe. During the cleaning process, the
only place I could see where a threaded hole did not have a screw is
at the TS end of the bed. There's a hole in the casting below the TS.
However, I can't see where it would make a difference whether it was
installed or not.

Oh, and lastly #2, could another HF 8x12 owner tell me if it is
supposed to come with a pan underneath the lathe? I knew it did not
have a back splash but thought it DID have a pan that goes underneath
it.

Thanks to all of you for the information you have provided me and for
the encouragement that has gotten me this far in metal turning.

Rance






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Vikki wrote.....Got an idea and tried it out and it seems to work pretty well. Not sure it would stand up to serious hogging, but worked out well turning down a about a 1/2" square stick to a dowel :)......

A great idea. Very similar to the 'safe' driving centres available. If enough pressure is applied with a rolling centre in the tailstock, should cover most turning needs and if anything catches, it just allows the material to stop before any serious damage is done.
HTH
Ellis

Hi Ian,

Yep, what Vikki said - pictures!

Actually, I keep promising myself to rig up a little travelling chip
tray. I thought your lathe came with skirts & wipers or is that my
memory playing tricks?

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@>

wrote:

G'day all.
Had a few minutes to spare this morning and I had to get out of

the

house to clear my head. No! not a hangover.
[ ... ]
The pan is 70mm long and 120mm wide plus a 10mm fold up at the

front,

20mm fold down at the rear and a 20mm fold up at the front. I

the cut

5mm oversize front an

PICTURES PLEASE! PICTURES PLEASE! :-).

Thanks & take care, Vikki.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Steve Claggett" <790racer@...>
wrote:

Have you seen this?

A friend has one, he is happy doing basic work, but he said it can
only handle small cuts or he has a chatter problem.

Yep and the base price for it is about half that for a Micro-Mill on
sale. Micro-Mill is FAR more useful IMO.

I did think about this for awhile, but bit the bullet and got the
uMill instead and think I have a lot more capability with it over the
milling attachment.

YMMV :-).

Take care, Vikki.

Hi Folks,

Got an idea and tried it out and it seems to work pretty well. Not
sure it would stand up to serious hogging, but worked out well turning
down a about a 1/2" square stick to a dowel :).

Took very little time to make. Can probably be improved but until I
see a need for it...



Hope it helps someone.

Take care, Vikki.

Is there a bed extention for the micromark 7x14 or plans somewhere to
make one.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...> wrote:

G'day all.
Had a few minutes to spare this morning and I had to get out of the
house to clear my head. No! not a hangover.
[ ... ]
The pan is 70mm long and 120mm wide plus a 10mm fold up at the front,
20mm fold down at the rear and a 20mm fold up at the front. I the cut
5mm oversize front an

PICTURES PLEASE! PICTURES PLEASE! :-).

Thanks & take care, Vikki.

Hi Ian,

Thanks for the response!

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...>
wrote:

G'day Vikki
Your site shows you have a dial indicator. Mount it on the cross
slide and extend the tail stock quill out to the limit of its travel
and clamp it. Run the dial indicator along the side and top of the
quill. You may well find the dial indicator moves during the travers
indicating that the quill is not parallel to the bed axis. Unless you
have spent time working over the tailstock you will find that it is
too high by up to 20 thou and the the quill alignment is out by up to
the same amount.

That was the easy part :). Spent most of the evening working at
following these directions and I am still not sure I got this right.

If you would please look at:



The first 4 are checking the quill on the tailstock and it seems to look
pretty good, Up by 0.001 in the back and toward the rear of the lathe
by 0.0025 (closest to the tailstock, front of quill was used as zero).

I spent yesterday finally getting my tailstock to
near "perfect" alignment and height yesterday, this has taken me 10
months of intermittent effort.

I can understand that after tonight :-). Made the measurements several
different ways and many different times and got somewhat different
values. Still confused, but somewhat less so (I think :-).

Measuring the dead center with the DI clamped in the chuck, you see the
results. I tried it using the quill end (just get the ball up on it)
and got a different set of values:

Ball sitting on top (rear of ball touching) rather than front touching
as in the pix referenced above:

<pre>
Ball back resting on top of quill, dial up............: reference zero.
Ball back resting on front of quill, dial front......: -0.008 / -0.0085
Ball back resting on bottom of quill, dial down..: -0.0035 / -0.004
Ball back resting on back of quill, dial rea.........: -0.005
</pre>

Pretending I am getting a clue here, that would make the back end of
the work closer to the front of the lathe which would cut the workpiece
thinner than the front (chuck end).

Many different variations in the different pieces, certainly a challenge
to get them all working the right way. Starting to think this little
7x12 is rather amazing for as good as it is out of the box after being
shipped halfway across the planet!

I moved the clamping screw from under
to above the foot.

Need to figure out how to do that one, not clear to me why it is on the
bottom in the first place, just seems wrong to me. So far what tapers I
needed were short enough to do the math and set the compound
accordingly.

Don't use the rolling centre when making alignment;

Did indeed use the dead center that came with the lathe.

for critical work
use a dead centre with the tip lubricated with molebdenum grease.

Understand, thanks.

use the method which holds a shim between the centre to verify
alignment.

Do you mean crush (dent) the shim between a pointed rod in the chuck
against the center in the tailstock to see if they match up?

BTW. It turning between centres the alignment of the headstock will
not effect the job. If the tailstock quill is not aligned then the
alignment with the headstock will differ as the quill is extended.

With it having been fully extended to get space to work, I was getting
all it has to give :).

Keep up the work on the laser centre and edge finder, it looks a
great project.

Problem with using cheap laser pointers to do that is that NONE of them
(that I have tried so far) project a decent dot, if a dot at all. One
can get a donut pretty easily, but that requires better eyeballs than I
have to use. I looked into decent laser modules (Digikey, IIRC) and the
folks offering them for $40-$60 are one fantastic deal. Of the 5 I have
tried so far, none was significantly better than the first one I did
:-/. If there are decent laser modules at affordable prices out there,
I have been unable to locate them :-(.

Thanks very much & take care, Vikki.

A milling slide vice for lathe means you are limited by the lathe speed.
You will not be able to mill with the smaller bits which will need higher speeds.

Gavin

From: andrew franks <andyf1108@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Micromill vs Minimill .... Now milling attachment
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2007 02:48:23 +0100 (BST)

I've got one of those vertical slides. It's fittted by removing the topslide and fastening it down to the "swivel disk" in the cross-slide. It would have been better if it had T-slots to fasten jobs (or a vise) to the front of it, rather than that big, overhanging, "toolpost" arrangement. Check if your cross-slide will wind far enough over to make full use of its 2.7" (approx) width. To adjust the depth of cut with a milling cutter in the chuck (or collet), the carriage handwheel isn't nearly precise enough; you will need a handwheel and graduated dial on the outboard end of the leadscrew. As I've previously remarked, I wish I'd put the money into a mini-mill fund.
Andy

Steve Claggett <790racer@...> wrote:
Have you seen this?

A friend has one, he is happy doing basic work, but he said it can
only handle small cuts or he has a chatter problem.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard Stevens <rtjstevens@...>
wrote:

Hi, I too have a Seig 7x12 and have been wondering about milling too,

The smaller lathe has a milling attachment one can buy - but it

won't fit

the 7x12 (I believe). Does anyone know of one that will fit? I do

have a DVD

from Chronos UK that shows a Taig/Peatol attachment (with a few

minor mods)

being able to fit the 7x10/12. Has anyone any experience of doing

this? If

so, what's the max capacity for milling?

I'm sure many will say - buy the Seig X-1/2/3 but Taig/Peatol also do a
standalone milling machine for approx ?550 (UK Pounds). Is this

better than

the equivalent mill from Seig?

Thanks

Richard (UK)

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G'day all.
Had a few minutes to spare this morning and I had to get out of the
house to clear my head. No! not a hangover.
I was sick of catching my thumb nail on the cap screws which retain
the cross slide and compound handles. First thought, use a 6mm bolt
purchased from an auto parts store but found I didn't have any
threaded full length. Scrounging through stuff I had picked up I
found two 6mm round head screws, they were too long so I slipped a
nut onto them and put them in the vice, chopped off the over-length
with the hacksaw and cleaned them up with a file; backing the nut off
cleaned up the thread.
Worked perfectly.
Now I had two short 6mm cap screws looking for a job. They fitted the
holes in the saddle for the travelling steady. Next a swarf tray
mounted on the saddle. I had to hand some 0.8mm Aluminium sheet
(Aluminum sheet won't do!) so out with the rule, square, marker pen
and tin snips. Overall the cutout is 125mm by 85mm to make a pan
which projects towards the headstock by about 75mm. At the back there
is a 90deg. fold down of 20mm and at the front a 45deg. fold up of
20mm with a 10mm 45deg fold up at the side (headstock end). The flat
part of the pan is 100 by 70mm, the extra 5mm in the cutout
dimensions allows the edges at the front and side to be rolled over.
A 6mm hole in the right place allows the pan to be retained on the
saddle using the said screw.
I threw a bit if scrap bar in the chuck and turned it down, The swarf
and cutting oil fell neatly in the pan. Next an offcut of brass and
the chips sprayed into the pan, nothing on the ways or leadscrew.

Verdict: a success, why hadn't hadn't I done this ages ago?
It all took less time to do than to describe. My head now clear I
went inside and continued the task in hand.

What am I going to do with the other 6mm screw???

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian


The pan is 70mm long and 120mm wide plus a 10mm fold up at the front,
20mm fold down at the rear and a 20mm fold up at the front. I the cut
5mm oversize front an

Well, I just dove in with both feet to get it cleaned up. I decided
to go ahead and disassemble the cross slide, compound, and tailstock
for the cleaning. Since the parts were away from the lathe, I just
used paint thinner for cleaning. I didn't find much more than a
little protective layer of grease, really not much. Oh, I did find
some surface rust on the cross slide. I bit the bullet and got after
it with some 400 grit and that was that. A bit of it was on the under
side of the cross slide but I think it will be ok. It was at the very
end.

Got it all put back together lubricating with Mobil 1 as I went. It
seemed to go back together well. I had to tinker with the nut for the
screw on the compound. If you don't get it juuuuuuuust right, the
compound gets tight at one end of travel. Maybe I shouldn't have
removed it for cleaning. No big deal. I may have to fiddle more with
that later.

I still have to degrease the pullys on the HS before crankin it up.
I'm thinking that removing them would be prudent. Two have clip rings
and the one on the 'other' end of the spindle has a threaded nut. Any
one know of a reason I shouldn't remove these for cleaning?

One thing I was pleasantly surprised with when I first got to looking
closer to my new toy was to see all the oil ports with the check
balls. However, could someone tell me what kind of oil can or spout I
need to oil those things? Is there a special fitting on oil cans for
those?

Lastly, during the unpacking from the crate, I found one loose screw
rolling around underneath the lathe. During the cleaning process, the
only place I could see where a threaded hole did not have a screw is
at the TS end of the bed. There's a hole in the casting below the TS.
However, I can't see where it would make a difference whether it was
installed or not.

Oh, and lastly #2, could another HF 8x12 owner tell me if it is
supposed to come with a pan underneath the lathe? I knew it did not
have a back splash but thought it DID have a pan that goes underneath
it.

Thanks to all of you for the information you have provided me and for
the encouragement that has gotten me this far in metal turning.

Rance

Hi Rance,

That toolhaus.org link is a beauty. It sure beats scrolling through
dozens of pages to check the weak points for high turnover sellers.
Puts all non-positive comments together where you can easily form an
opinion as to whether the seller has a problem or just problem
customers.

Very useful link!

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:

Nope, but I don't believe I'd buy from this ebayer. Must have had

a

nervous breakdown in Feb of this year. History can be seen at
tinyurl.com/3884pk . You can use toolhaus.org to check

neutral/neg. fb

for ebayers.

Rance


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "markzemanek" <markzemanek@>
wrote:

Howdy gang:

I've come across an interesting looking, alternative tool post on
ebay, of the likes I've never seen before.

The seller does not mentio what advantage it has over thet

nomral type

tool post. The photo is quite poor, and the seller further seems

more

interested in terms of payment.

Looking beyond all this, though, might anybody here know what the
application is for this type of toolpost?



Thanks, Mark

Hi,

If they are the red painted ones with braised carbide tips, they are
crap. Other than practice the only reason for putting them in the
box was so you had something to do on Christmas afternoon if Santa
forgot the accessories.

Unless you get a QCTP, get used to shims. It's normal practice. If
your lathe is designed to support 5/16 tooling it will be
DELIBERATELY a tad low on 5/16" tools. That's to allow you to shim
the last bit. If they tried to get the height exact, tolerances
would often land them on the high side so shims wouldn't work. Of
course, you can grind HSS tools lower. But you get the idea. You're
actually MEANT to shim tools on fixed height turret holders.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "harleyknall" <knall@...>
wrote:

I just got my cumming 7x12 mini lathe, it came with 5 crappy

5/16"

bits. They seemed to contact the work are a bit low, and needed

to be

shimmed UP.
I like the idea of being able to use the indexable bits (3

sided)

what size shank should I be looking to get?
1/4 " ? 3/8"?
Thanks guys.

Vikki,

Now that I've got my lathe to look at I'm thinking of an alternative
option for a woodworking tool rest. I might plan on just running the
spindle in reverse and doing my woodworking-turning from the back
side of the lathe. On a bench this might present a problem but I have
mine on a rolling cart of sorts. I'm thinking that a magnetic base
for the tool rest and sitting it on the rear of the cross slide. On
my 8x12 there looks to be acres and acres of room for this sort of
setup. Just a thought, no experience with this method yet.

Rance (grinning from ear to ear right now)


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "barryvabeach"
<barryvabeach@> wrote:

Vikki, I took some poor pictures and they are posted here with

some

notes

Quite good, gives me a real good idea of how to improve this, err,
thing :-)!

If you have any questions let me know. In fairness to LMS, the

spur

center is very nice. If I want to do something quick though, I
just somewhat round one end and put it in the chuck and put the
other end up against the live center and turn the end near the

live

center round, then put that end in the chuck and it works out

pretty

well. Barry