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It Seems that a Slitting Saw & arbor would be prudent additions to my accessory order but there are soooo many to choose from. For general work (not slotting), what size would prob. be best (most

Ed, Thanks. That's exactly what I needed to know. I don't plan on buying the commercial QCTP, I plan on making my own. Prob. build it for the 3/8" tools. I do like the idea of using the 4-way that

If you intend to use the OEM 4-way toolpost, it needs 1/2" bits. All it takes then is .022 shim to bring the cutting edge to the center. The smaller bits would need quite a bit more shimming. If you

G'day Mike et al. CHUCK GUARD. You have to seriously wonder at the value of the chuck guard. Somewhere in OH&S regs they say all rotsting pats must be guarded. On automatic machines its presence is

In getting my tool order together I can't seem to find out what size tool bits my 8x12-to-be takes. 3/8 or 5/16? Even if it will hold a 3/8 should I just use 5/16 for some reason? Thanks.

Sounds great, Anyone know if that promo includes international freight? I put the code in and their web software seems happy. Then again, I know international is all a big kludge on their web site.

wrote: in a keep that Hi Marcello, I reckon you could easily fabricate a bigger mounting block for the rod and microswitch to place the rod further out. Say 3 1/2" from spindle centre. The problem is

Thank You, Mike, now I've got a clearer picture of the machine. That would mean you cannot simply unscrew the guard because the rod would stay in place. Would it be possible to cut off part of the rod

<mailto:7x12minilathe@...> , "Mike Payson" <mike@...> wrote: <http://littlemachineshop.com/Reference/reference.php> ) as well as the Hi Mike, That's a pretty rubbery parameter. It just

According to LittleMachineShop (http://littlemachineshop.com/Reference/reference.php) as well as the Homier website, the compound on their 7x has only 1.38" travel, vs. 2.165" for most of the others.

At $299 for the 7x12, the Homier is really tough to beat. You'll probably want to get their lathe starter kit as well, which includes a nice selection of accessories. You'll still need some extra

Thanks for the explanations Ian and others. This makes sense. wrote: pictures". and to chuck

Thanks, Chuck. I just read those posts. I already knew that many people love them for their value vs. cost. I have heard others call them toys though. Anyway, I'm sure I'll have much fun with one, as

Still, replacing the screws with decent quality ones is a worthwhile "someday" project. "Real" socket head screws are significantly harder/stronger than their no-name Asian clones. Similarly, good

When I straightened mine, I used the drill press as an arbor press with a dial indicator to show quill travel. It took deflecting the gib strip about 0.015" to remove the 0.005" curve it initially

The worth of these lathes was just discussed about two days ago on this group. Look in the group archives starting on March 18 for posts titled "7x12 vs. DB200 Unimat". Quite a few on this list and

Their next version will probably satisfy all the safety requirements by making it impossible to cut anything;-) Roy wrote: a

Andy The indexing plate itself is maybe a little bit pricey, at 60 bucks, but it's also a very convenient size, very light weight and it doesn't require removal to run the lathe. It tucks very nicely

http://www.kahale-martinapmachine.net/ Forgot to post the link for the updates, sorry. Marty

Steve, I'm a bit "that's near enough" myself, but I'd be interested to know where you sourced those particular indexing plates. They don't look expensive, and would involve less calculation, and