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It pays to check the hardness before going to a lot of trouble to shorten the taper - its easy if the taper isn't hardened -- many of the Chinese tapers are soft. My chuck and taper were from HF; I

Itamar, That was sound advice from Gordy - refreshing to hear yet another praise for the far eastern lathes. I thought I would just add that the supplier is maybe as important as the lathe in this

Most MT's are hardened and neither a hacksaw or bandsaw will touch them. I have cit several using an angle grinder and disc. You need to measure carefully before you cut, if you cut too short you will

Thank you Gordon, Indeed, I assumed it to be the situation. Best regards, Itamar.

Thanks for the reply. I do have a 3" blade and holder. I forgot I had it until you said!! John - In 7x12minilathe@..., "wardwmiller" <wardmiller@...> wrote: suitable drill how cut drill

John, when I wanted to shorten the tang on mine, I purchased a 3" Cut-Off Blade with Mandrel. Then I clamped the Taper (with suitable padding) vertically in my X-Y vise on the drill press table. I

Hi All, I want to remove the tang from the morse taper that holds my drill chuck in the tail stock. I assume it is hard steel. I have a hacksaw , metal cutting band saw and an angle grinder that I

wrote: in the not an 60s). Chinese slam the chinese lathes onthis site. But for the money, these little machines do a really good job. As long as you take a couple light finishing cuts they hold

Hi, I'm a new comer to this group. My major turning jobs were in the RC aircraft modeling as well as in the electronics mechanical side. I'm a retired hobbyist, and none of my activities is aimed for

Thanks - Great Link to Varmint Al's, that'll get me started. I'll get an order in to Enco too, they're pretty quick - I'm sure I'll have the tools before the lathe arrives. Anyone in the Northern VA

Just because you have a small lathe doesn't mean you shouldn't use big tools. Big tools give you more leverage. See if you can talk to a local woodturner (in person) and get their opinion on what

Not certain... This ( http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90741) is the exact set that I bought when I bought my lathe. Like I said, the results on aluminum were lousy. My

From my experience, HF is VERY wishy-washy. It depends on who you talk to, which store, etc. Aparently this store started a Special Order program about a week and a half ago. They didn't even bat an

<roylowenthal@...> wrote: I wondered about that. I *assumed* that the difference in the handles had to do with the small lathe, keyword *assumed* :-). Well, if they don't work out, I learned

ARC eurotrade are selling the little X1L mill with long bed extensions in both directions for ?201+postage. Check out: http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/ Stu G

Those may work, looks like "lathe" was put in the description to catch search engines - they look like carving chisels more than lathe chisels. Then again, for turning on a small lathe, you can get

I like Varmint Al's "Work Horse" bit: http://www.varmintal.com/alath.htm#Tool_Bit_Grinding Regards, Mark markrages@gmail -- Most of the time, for most of the world, no matter how hard people work at

www.use-enco.com - 383-5320 Those bits go on sale a lot for about 0.69 each in quantity 10. Get ten bits, a bench grinder (6" is fine), a wheel dresser, 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper, and a polished

I would suggest getting a few carbide bits too so you can try out the lathe right away. But its certainly ok to buy some HSS blanks too. Take it step by step and don't try to learn everything at once.

Thanks. They're currently on sale for 0.84. I got everything else. I'm a little hesitant starting out grinding my own, but if that's the best way to go, that's what I'll do. Any suggested links for