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The 7x12 standard chuck would have no problem with that

Gerry
Leeds UK

From: "mozziesplat" <katiechris4evr@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] 7x12 capability
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2007 15:59:28 -0000

I'm thinking of buying a 7x12 minilathe but i need to know if the
standard chucks are cabable of holding 3 inch lengths of 1 inch round
aluminium stock tight enough so that i can face both ends off.
I would be a complete novice to this hobby hence the simplistic
question.
Could anyone please advise.

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Chris, Warco do one, too, and they are all basically Seigs. Their machines have a few rudimentary checks made before being sent out. Their travelling steady is ?18. I don't know how their prices compare. Plenty of dealers on ebay, too (but perhaps they are narrower targets if the machine is faulty). Macine Mart offer one, as well.
If you anticipate cutting any threads, decide whether they are going to be imperial or metric; the machines come fitted either with a 16 threads per inch, or with a 1.5mm pitch, leadscrew. It's a lot easier to cut imperial threads than metrics on the 16tpi version, and vice versa.
Have fun
Andy

mozziesplat <katiechris4evr@...> wrote:
Thanks Andy and Ian it sounds like the 7x12 will do the jobs i have
in mind for it so i will be putting an order in soon for iether a
sieg c3 or a chester conquest i think they are the same machine...
Chris

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...>
wrote:

Chris, I had a 3.25" length of 1" diam. aluminium handy, so I've

just tried facing it in my 3-jaw, without using undue force to
tighten the chuck. In fact, the chucked end was a smaller diam. for a
quarter of an inch, so the effective grip was on less than 0.5" of
the job. Using modest (3 thou or so) increments, it faced up nicely -
can't see any appreciable light getting through when holding it up to
the window, against a straightedge.Would be a long job, though, if
there was much metal to be removed to achieve the right length, and
a travelling steady, as Ian recommends, would enable more ambitious
cuts.

Andy


mozziesplat <katiechris4evr@...> wrote:
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian"

<fosterscons@>

wrote:

G'day Moszziesplat.
The job is well within the capacity of the 7x12 lathe. My concern

is

the overhang from the chuck. There is a risk that the work could

skew

in the chuck due to the cutting forces. Being aluminium doesn't

help,

it is softer to hold. If the work was any longer I would

definitely

use

a fixed steady to give support at the work face. Use a steady to

be

sure. Consider getting steadies with the lathe, often they come

as

a

cost effective package.
BTW, with an handle like Mozziesplat and spelling Aluminium

correctly

you must be Australian.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mozziesplat"
<katiechris4evr@> wrote:

I'm thinking of buying a 7x12 minilathe but i need to know if

the

standard chucks are cabable of holding 3 inch lengths of 1 inch

round

aluminium stock tight enough so that i can face both ends off.
I would be a complete novice to this hobby hence the simplistic
question.
Could anyone please advise.

Cheers Ian the work skewing due to the tool forces at the end of

the

work were exactly my concerns. What is the maximum diameter of

stock

that will fit through the fixed steadies ... You chaps down in
Australia still spell aluminium correctly like us in the uk, the
reason for my handle is another story that doesnt involve dead
insects on your windscreen/shield?
regards,
chris






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I stop grinding the top rake just about when the grinding wheel gets to
the cutting point. I'm only using two different tools for most of my
work at this time but it been working for me. The shim is a two inch
square with a hole drilled through it so you just drop it over over the
bolt and put your tool post on. Haven't had any problems with it
slipping yet. Kevin.

By the way, I would suggest still checking tool height.


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...>
wrote:

G'day Kevin.
Lateral thinking!! Good.
Do the shim/s under the tool post allow it to slip?
How do you sharpen each tool to be exactly the same height?
On account of these questions I would not endorse following your idea.
Personally I have five tool post which allows me to have at least 10
tools set up; I have had three tools in one holder, use half length
HSS blanks.

I don't have shares in LMS but I do support Chris's recommendations
regarding multiple tool posts as an alternative to a QCTP. The tool
posts are half the cost of the QCTP holders and can take at least two
tools each.

Keep up the lateral thinking it is part of the skill of the craft. If
an idea doesn't yield the result you want (I didn't say "fails") then
think it through and learn and experiment again.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kevin" k.hand@ wrote:

5/16 is about .014 under center line on my cummins. Rather than

shimming

each tool bit, I shimmed the tool post. As long as I'm using 5/16

tool

bits no more shimming. Kevin


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Damon Wascom" <kc5cqw@>

wrote:

I have to shim my 1/4" and 5/16" tools on the stock 4-way tool

post. I

found that it always

totals 3/8" to get them on center. Should I order some 3/8" tools

or

stick with the shims?

Thanks, Damon

Thanks Andy and Ian it sounds like the 7x12 will do the jobs i have
in mind for it so i will be putting an order in soon for iether a
sieg c3 or a chester conquest i think they are the same machine...
Chris

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...>
wrote:

Chris, I had a 3.25" length of 1" diam. aluminium handy, so I've

just tried facing it in my 3-jaw, without using undue force to
tighten the chuck. In fact, the chucked end was a smaller diam. for a
quarter of an inch, so the effective grip was on less than 0.5" of
the job. Using modest (3 thou or so) increments, it faced up nicely -
can't see any appreciable light getting through when holding it up to
the window, against a straightedge.Would be a long job, though, if
there was much metal to be removed to achieve the right length, and
a travelling steady, as Ian recommends, would enable more ambitious
cuts.

Andy


mozziesplat <katiechris4evr@...> wrote:
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian"

<fosterscons@>

wrote:

G'day Moszziesplat.
The job is well within the capacity of the 7x12 lathe. My concern

is

the overhang from the chuck. There is a risk that the work could

skew

in the chuck due to the cutting forces. Being aluminium doesn't

help,

it is softer to hold. If the work was any longer I would

definitely

use

a fixed steady to give support at the work face. Use a steady to

be

sure. Consider getting steadies with the lathe, often they come

as

a

cost effective package.
BTW, with an handle like Mozziesplat and spelling Aluminium

correctly

you must be Australian.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mozziesplat"
<katiechris4evr@> wrote:

I'm thinking of buying a 7x12 minilathe but i need to know if

the

standard chucks are cabable of holding 3 inch lengths of 1 inch

round

aluminium stock tight enough so that i can face both ends off.
I would be a complete novice to this hobby hence the simplistic
question.
Could anyone please advise.

Cheers Ian the work skewing due to the tool forces at the end of

the

work were exactly my concerns. What is the maximum diameter of

stock

that will fit through the fixed steadies ... You chaps down in
Australia still spell aluminium correctly like us in the uk, the
reason for my handle is another story that doesnt involve dead
insects on your windscreen/shield?
regards,
chris






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Just to get the terminology down for lathe work -

Turning - reducing the diameter of the work.
Facing - reducing the length of the work from an end.
Parting - cutting work off on the lathe.
Boring - enlargening a hole in the work.
Centre-drill - a special bit that cuts the seat for the tailstock
centre. It is also used for precisely starting drilling operations
since it's short and rigid.

- That should be enough

Since you're working on pipe 10" long, I would suggest getting at
least a 7x12. Work much longer than 8" gets really tricky on the
7x10. The 7x12, despite the numbers, is actually a full 4" longer
than the 7x10.

3/4" and slightly larger diameters will fit fine through the spindle,
so theoretically you could work on one end of a very long pipe. But
the stock 3" chuck will on only pass 5/8" work. 4" chucks almost
universally pass 3/4" work though.

I don't know the American market for these lathes very well, but a lot
of people like the cumminstools.com 7x12 for the amount of accessories
they get. The steady rest is useful for working on very long stock
too, replacing the tailstock. It's probably available somewhere else
a little cheaper though.

Threading is no problem at all. If you buy just about any US lathe,
it'll be equipped to make perfect imperial threads. Usually the gears
used will be 40-65-35 gears. The metric leadscrew minilathes can
approximate a 14 TPI pretty well too. Making left hand threads is
pretty simple as you just drive the leadscrew backwards - no trouble
at all, just flip a shifter.

That said, 14 TPI is pretty steep and can get pretty hairy on any
lathe pretty quickly. So something that course is best done by
turning the lathe with a hand crank rather than by power. Usually
it's a pretty simple matter to just make your own hand-crank for the
spindle out of scrap, etc.

Which gets us to the crux of the matter. All the 7xs, with the
possible exception of one of the nice tuned up 7xs like the Micromark
7x14 (6" longer than the 7x10), are best described as "lathe kits
assembled for your inconvenience" While you can take them out of the
box and start turning, it won't be very nice and you won't enjoy it.
This is why these lathes are so popular among us hobbyists as we
actually enjoy spending time tuning them up and dialing them in. If
you don't enjoy fiddling with machines you just want to get straight
to work, spend 2 or 3 times more money and get a real lathe.

Either way you go, the operation sounds pretty straight forward to me.
I'll explain how I would do it on my 7x10, presuming I could fit the
work between the centres. I'm also going to presume that I'm making a
few different length pieces but only a few different ID pipes. Clearly
OD is our choice.

1). Make some top-hat shaped pieces out of aluminium (or
what-have-you) to make caps to fit each ID pipe I'm using. Probably
about 3/4 inch long, centre-drilled to fit the tailstock. The thin
portion of the top-hat will closely fit the ID of the pipe, and the
flange will 'cap' it and allow the pipe to be held by the dead centre.
Here's how their made simply:

1.1). Set the AL stock so it's sticking out of the chuck about 1".
With a left-hand turning tool set squarely in the toolpost, turn down
the stock cutting from tailstock end toward the chuck end, stopping
after about 5/8". Make light cuts to this point until the pipe just
slips over it. Lay a file at an angle on the end of the work, and
form a quick chamfer (slight point) to make inserting the plug easier.
Then with the cutoff tool set square, cut the stock off 1/8"-1/4"
past the turned down part, forming a flange.

1.2). Remove what remains of the stock and mount the top-hat in the
chuck, flange side out. There will be a nib left over from parting,
you can file it off or simply face the whole top-hat with the turning
tool. Finally, centre drill the peice with a centre-drill bit held in
a tailstock chuck.

1.3) A word of warning here - these are not "precision" unless you
indicate the part with a dial indicator when you chuck it a second
time. You can expect 0.002-.005" error if you don't.

2) Get cutting pipe. Cut your peice about an inch longer than you
need it. About 1" of an end will be held in the chuck and is
essentially unworkable without some serious juggling. Cap the other
end with your new cap and fit the tailstock and dead centre. Turn
down your pipe to the OD you want as close to the chuck as you dare.
If bits of the top-hat flange are in the way, just blast through them.

3) Back off the tailstock far and part off the pipe, loosing the
chucked end. Remount the pipe so it's only sticking out of the chuck
1-1.5" (assuming it fits through the headstock & chuck). Chamfer the
end of the pipe with a file or with the threading bit set at 45
degrees (appx.) to make the pipes thread on easily. Setup and cut the
threads (whole other lesson!).

4) Flip pipe, face to desired length using turning tool, then repeat
step #3.


I hope that explains it. As you can see, lathe work (and most machine
work really) involves a lot of setup. This is why machine shops
charge so much less for batches than 1-offs. Also, you see how half
the time you setup for a job, you begin by making tools. Sometimes
you end up making tools to make the tools!

-Paul Moir

A couple of questions.

When you say "I need to make small sections of it thinner" do you
mean make the outside smaller or the inside larger?

When you say a "14x1 left hand thread" do you mean a 14mm diameter
piece with a 1mm pitch?

These answers will held decide what you need.

As far as the 7x10 lathe it will be to short for a 10" long piece.

Paul M

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "harleyknall" <knall@...>
wrote:

I am looking to buy a cheap lathe to do the following work.
I will be working on some 10" long pipe under 3/4" diameter.
I need to make small sections of it thinner ( face?), and

be

able to cut the pipe to length ( part? )

I am specificaly interested in THREADING, I NEED to be able

to

make 14x1 left hand thread.
Are the cheapo harbor freight ones suited to this? Which is

the

best to buy?
This lathe will be LIGHTLY USED, I do not need an industrail
machine. I am simply wondering what INEXPENSIVE lathe can

perform

the task and HOW to perform the threading task ( what gear set up

ect ).

Harbor freight has 2 7x10 lathes listed that look

identical,

there is a $10 price diferance...... which is better? what is

the

diferance? Will either do the required task?

hi all-

we've been working on getting the 8x12/14 cnc'd lately and posted some
comments and pictures on its progress. so far, we're just a few steps away
from having the carriage being driven. we've opted to maintain manual
functionality so threading, feeding, etc. aren't tampered with. it could
have been a much simpler build if we machined the brackets manually but
instead wanted to take advantage of making these via cnc for nice rounded
contours.

<>

thanks for listening!
david


MetalWorkingFAQ.NET - Over 50 content sites! <>
CNC, Plans/Kits, 8x12 Lathe, Mini-Mill, How-Tos <>
Sieg X3/Super X3 Mill Information, HF/Enco Coupons <>

Hi John,

Yes, it's probably wise to be aware of that. It's not that common if
you don't work with the stuff much but as you say, people may not
make the connection. Same goes for lots of things we work with once
we stray from metal.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <John@...> wrote:

Turning epoxy resin and/or using it as a handle can cause a problem
for some people because they have, or develop, contact sensitivity

to

the resin. This may result in an allergic reaction, anything from

red

skin and/or itching to swelling to difficulty breathing. The

allergic

reaction is generally not immediate, it can take 12 hours or more

for

symptoms to develop so it is easy to miss the connection between
exposure and symptoms. The allergy is mainly to un-reacted hardner

so

chances of a reaction diminish over time and also if the epoxy

cure is

accelerated by raising the temperature.

Be alert for any of the above, especially if you turn this

material on

your lathe since the resulting additional surface area brings
additional risk of a reaction.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@> wrote:

John,

I think I understand most of what you are saying. Between your

first

two paragraphs are you talking bout two different procedures?

Overall, are you basically saying "Cast a rod of fiberglassing

resin

using pvc. Then turn it off and turn the resin rod into whatever

you

wnat."? It seems like an appropriate sized cardboard tube(capped

on

one end) could be used for casting the resin. Then just soak the
cardboard tube off after it hardens.

What's all this about axial and rotational keying? :) Thanks.

Rance


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@>
wrote:

Hi,

Just a suggestion.

For making plastic handles on shafts I turn a few grooves (for

axial

keying), grind a couple of flats (for rotational keying) and

then

cast the handle with fibre glassing resin from the hardware

store.

Use oversized PVC conduit as the former so centre isn't

critical.

Glue a piece to some scrap with silicone, etc. Then spray the

inside

lightly with WD40 as a release agent. Support the shaft by

clamping

from above and pour the resin in. Next day, stick the shaft in

the

chuck and turn off the PVC. If the WD40 has worked well you

won't

need to machine much before it slips off anyway. Discard that

and

continue turning the resin to shape. Fine cuts go smoothly and
produce mountains of fine stringy swarf. Don't let them build

up or

the job will eventually grab the whole pile and wrap it up!

Finish

with emery or wet & dry if you want a nice polish.

Place where I once worked used to cast blocks of that stuff

for

making items from. They always saved the offcuts in a bin for
smaller jobs. Turns beautifully.

John

Making your own springs is the best option if you need a one-off
spring, or something out of the ordinary. Another option is to buy a
length of spring stock and just cut out a section to suit your need.
Companies like Reid Supply Company sell lengths of spring stock in
varying sizes and materials (piano wire, stainless, etc.). And it's
cheap, usually just a few dollars per length.

John

Turning epoxy resin and/or using it as a handle can cause a problem
for some people because they have, or develop, contact sensitivity to
the resin. This may result in an allergic reaction, anything from red
skin and/or itching to swelling to difficulty breathing. The allergic
reaction is generally not immediate, it can take 12 hours or more for
symptoms to develop so it is easy to miss the connection between
exposure and symptoms. The allergy is mainly to un-reacted hardner so
chances of a reaction diminish over time and also if the epoxy cure is
accelerated by raising the temperature.

Be alert for any of the above, especially if you turn this material on
your lathe since the resulting additional surface area brings
additional risk of a reaction.

John

Hi Andy.
I was actually thinking likewise and having read your comments now
know I was right!
I am using 12mm aluminium rod and having turned it down an inch from
the end attempted to cut a 8mm thread, which did not work out too
well. Then I thought why not drill and tap a hole and use a screw
instead or just screw in a piece of 8mm thread and still use a nut on
the end. Still waiting for delivery of a tailstock chuck so have not
been able to try it out.
Paul

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...> wrote:

Paul, I hate cutting threads on or in aluminium, because the swarf

seems to stick to the tap or die and to tear out the threads as you
progress. One method I have used with (limited) success is to sort of
"form" the thread rather than cut it. For an external thread, I have
used rod a bit under half way between the outside and core diameters
of the desired thread, taper-turned the inside of a plain steel nut of
the desired size, and then (with lubrication) forcibly screwed the nut
on to the rod - basically, squeezing the aluminium into shape.
Similarly for internal threads, using a bit over half-way sized hole
and a tapered bolt.The results weren't terribly pretty, but good
enough for my needs. The internal threads were better, because it was
easier to emery off the machining roughness left on my "tap" than it
was to smooth the inside of my "die".

Andy

wireless_paul <paul@...> wrote:
Hello.
Thanks for all the members who came back to me.
Will probably end up with one of the sets from Axminster or Machine
Mart, both look to be the same manufacturer.
Suppose I could always buy individual Dies or Taps as I require them,
in which case I would probably buy the ones made in Sheffield by C & J
Hall although the dies are about ?20 each.
Paul
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wireless_paul" <paul@> wrote:

Hello.
Looking for a "Good" Tap and Die set available in the UK. I have what
was probably a cheap metric set that I have tried cutting a thread on
a piece of Aluminium, would not cut, nothing happened. I also have an
imperial set that is just marked "Foreign" tried this and cut a thread
with no problem. So really looking for a decent set to cut metric

threads.

Paul

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Hi Rance,

You've basicly got it except the first 2 parras go together to
describe how I put a handle on a hand tool shaft. For example, I
recently cut down a screw driver since I needed a little carbon
steel and also needed a very short screwdriver. By keying I meant I
didn't want the shaft to move in the new handle. A couple of grooves
turned in the steel shaft stop it pulling clear out of the resin
(axial direction) and a couple of flats ground on the shaft stop it
twisting in the resin (rotational direction). Is that clearer?

The last parra was a standalone comment about how the guys in the
workshop of my previous employer used to cast blocks of the stuff.

I follow what you mean about the cardboard. However, I think you'll
change your mind after trying it. The resin is pretty runny before
it starts to cure and the cardboard will probably end in a sticky
disaster. In any event the resin will likely soak in so far that you
will have little chance of soaking it off. Having worked with the
stuff in a previous life I went the PVC, silicone and WD40 way to
avoid getting messy.

I've previously used aerosol caps, etc. as formers. Anything that
comes to hand that's disposo and won't leak. Apart from the copious
swarf it's nice to machine. It also does a pretty good job at
bonding to itself if you need to cast in layers. Sometimes that
becomes necessary if doing large volumes and you don't want to risk
the curing heat melting your Chinese takeaway container mold!

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:

John,

I think I understand most of what you are saying. Between your

first

two paragraphs are you talking bout two different procedures?

Overall, are you basically saying "Cast a rod of fiberglassing

resin

using pvc. Then turn it off and turn the resin rod into whatever

you

wnat."? It seems like an appropriate sized cardboard tube(capped

on

one end) could be used for casting the resin. Then just soak the
cardboard tube off after it hardens.

What's all this about axial and rotational keying? :) Thanks.

Rance


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@>
wrote:

Hi,

Just a suggestion.

For making plastic handles on shafts I turn a few grooves (for

axial

keying), grind a couple of flats (for rotational keying) and

then

cast the handle with fibre glassing resin from the hardware

store.

Use oversized PVC conduit as the former so centre isn't

critical.

Glue a piece to some scrap with silicone, etc. Then spray the

inside

lightly with WD40 as a release agent. Support the shaft by

clamping

from above and pour the resin in. Next day, stick the shaft in

the

chuck and turn off the PVC. If the WD40 has worked well you

won't

need to machine much before it slips off anyway. Discard that

and

continue turning the resin to shape. Fine cuts go smoothly and
produce mountains of fine stringy swarf. Don't let them build up

or

the job will eventually grab the whole pile and wrap it up!

Finish

with emery or wet & dry if you want a nice polish.

Place where I once worked used to cast blocks of that stuff for
making items from. They always saved the offcuts in a bin for
smaller jobs. Turns beautifully.

John

John,

I think I understand most of what you are saying. Between your first
two paragraphs are you talking bout two different procedures?

Overall, are you basically saying "Cast a rod of fiberglassing resin
using pvc. Then turn it off and turn the resin rod into whatever you
wnat."? It seems like an appropriate sized cardboard tube(capped on
one end) could be used for casting the resin. Then just soak the
cardboard tube off after it hardens.

What's all this about axial and rotational keying? :) Thanks.

Rance


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

Hi,

Just a suggestion.

For making plastic handles on shafts I turn a few grooves (for

axial

keying), grind a couple of flats (for rotational keying) and then
cast the handle with fibre glassing resin from the hardware store.

Use oversized PVC conduit as the former so centre isn't critical.
Glue a piece to some scrap with silicone, etc. Then spray the

inside

lightly with WD40 as a release agent. Support the shaft by clamping
from above and pour the resin in. Next day, stick the shaft in the
chuck and turn off the PVC. If the WD40 has worked well you won't
need to machine much before it slips off anyway. Discard that and
continue turning the resin to shape. Fine cuts go smoothly and
produce mountains of fine stringy swarf. Don't let them build up or
the job will eventually grab the whole pile and wrap it up! Finish
with emery or wet & dry if you want a nice polish.

Place where I once worked used to cast blocks of that stuff for
making items from. They always saved the offcuts in a bin for
smaller jobs. Turns beautifully.

John

Thanks for the comments from all. I understand about the jaws
sticking out. Since I'm getting an 8x12 I think I will go with the 5"
though. I thought about the 6" but I just don't know. I'll wait on my
purchase until the lathe actually gets here.

Rance


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...>
wrote:

G'day rance.
All you have been told so far is sound, if perhaps confusing.
IMHO; chuck selection will depend on what stock you get. Round and

hex

stock only needs a 3 jaw self centering chuck, it will be the most
convenient and have semi permanent residence on the lathe. You can

even

off set pieces for eccentric turning by means of packers.
But soon you will need to face or bore an odd shaped piece, then

its 4

jaw chuck time or even use a face plate. Ive had my lathe 10 months

and

haven't used the face plate yet but they are cheap and just worth
having. You can get by with only a 4 jaw chuck but each job has to

be

set up rather than just thrown in the 3 jaw SC chuck. You will need

a

dial indicator and magnetic stand. If you are really clever you can

use

the cross slide and shims (cigarette papers) to get the work

centred.

Get the biggest chuck/s you can afford and swing in the lathe,

remember

the jaws sometimes extend beyond the perimeter of the chuck.

You will need chuck and arbor for the tail stock, even if only to

drill

centre holes; this also means centre drill bits.

You will be a centre for the tail stock as a minimum. A live centre

is

not essential, you just need high pressure molibdenum grease.

I'll make some comments about tooling in a following post.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards
Ian.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@> wrote:

I'm looking for accessories in anticipation of my 8x12 HF

purchase.

There are so many chucks to choose from. 3", 4", 5", self

centering

or

independetent jaws. In my limited knowledge, I expect that

independent

jaws is what I want. Should I get the biggest that my lathe &

pocket

book can handle? Price IS a consideration to me. Any

recommendations

for a 5" (specific part #'s please)? Thanks. :)

Rance

Looks like the scissor type wins out. I'll try to catch one on sale
or do the ebay thing. Once I get it in, I may consider making my 2nd
one (if further needs arise). Thanks for the input guys.


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:

Gerry, others,

So what should I look for in a knurler? Buy just the knurls and

make my

own mount or buy the whole tool? Seems to me that buying the whole

tool

would be best. Do I really need multiple tpi knurls? I'm just a
beginner so I can't imagine needing more than just the 'average'
knurled knob.

Any articles on how to use a knurler? Which type (sissor vs. fixed)
would be best for a beginner? Thanks.

Rance


RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Way Wear, Hard Gibs

I have the scissor type and apart from the physical restriction on

what

you can knurl due to the throat they have worked very well for me.

Mine

will take just under 2" and in reality this has not proved a

problem

for the type of stuff i do.

Gerry
leeds UK

Folks, Sorry for the late reply but I've been out of pocket (ie.
working a side job to pay for the HF 8x12 that is on order.). I'll fill
you in when I get it in my grubby little hands.

Thanks a bunch for all the replies, comments suggestions and
encouragement. I particularly like Ian's suggested use of the angle
grinder for roughing. That's a $10 tool from HF. And I could mount it
to the bench too. I also have a newer appreciation for the tangential
holder now that I understand more about it. I believe I'll probably use
carbide inserts for threading (initially) but grind HSS for all my
other applications. Thanks again for all the comments.

Rance

Me agen John.
I have looked through Minitech's offering, they don't seem to have
spare threading dials either; but you should ask.
I must admit that during the drooling over catalogue stage the
threading dial was one of the things I looked for. I had only ever
cut inch threads on imperial machines so was not aware of the
complexity of chasing metric threads. That reminds me the threading
dial is also called a "thread chasing dial"

The pinion is quite simple and you could probably cut you own in
aluminium. Turn up a blank then the use the change gears as an
indexer. By grinding a tool with the Acme thread profile you could
mount it on edge on the lathe centre line and then traverse it along
the blank with the saddle using the cross slide to set the cut depth.

There must be a better way with metric threads but i haven't worked
it out yet. I recall there is a third method after reversing the
lathe, using the dial and.......?

As an aside, the 7x12 had the features that our Workshop Practice I
instructor told us to look for when assessing a lathe, e.g, a prism
bed, tumbler reverse, back gear, thread cutting change wheels and a
thread chasing dial.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

Later I discovered H&F are no
better on accessories for the 7x. They didn't even know a threading

dial

existed for that model. I got one from LMS.

I found an explanation for the threading dial with metric examples

at

www.mini-lathe.org.uk/thread_dial_change_gears.shtml
<> that
gelled for me. The only problem is that the examples actually

highlight

the need for several spindles in order to cover relatively standard
pitches. Hence my question. Maybe I should browse the Taig store in
Canberra?

John

Chris, I had a 3.25" length of 1" diam. aluminium handy, so I've just tried facing it in my 3-jaw, without using undue force to tighten the chuck. In fact, the chucked end was a smaller diam. for a quarter of an inch, so the effective grip was on less than 0.5" of the job. Using modest (3 thou or so) increments, it faced up nicely - can't see any appreciable light getting through when holding it up to the window, against a straightedge.Would be a long job, though, if there was much metal to be removed to achieve the right length, and a travelling steady, as Ian recommends, would enable more ambitious cuts.
Andy


mozziesplat <katiechris4evr@...> wrote:
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...>
wrote:

G'day Moszziesplat.
The job is well within the capacity of the 7x12 lathe. My concern

is

the overhang from the chuck. There is a risk that the work could

skew

in the chuck due to the cutting forces. Being aluminium doesn't

help,

it is softer to hold. If the work was any longer I would definitely

use

a fixed steady to give support at the work face. Use a steady to be
sure. Consider getting steadies with the lathe, often they come as

a

cost effective package.
BTW, with an handle like Mozziesplat and spelling Aluminium

correctly

you must be Australian.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mozziesplat"
<katiechris4evr@> wrote:

I'm thinking of buying a 7x12 minilathe but i need to know if the
standard chucks are cabable of holding 3 inch lengths of 1 inch

round

aluminium stock tight enough so that i can face both ends off.
I would be a complete novice to this hobby hence the simplistic
question.
Could anyone please advise.

Cheers Ian the work skewing due to the tool forces at the end of the
work were exactly my concerns. What is the maximum diameter of stock
that will fit through the fixed steadies ... You chaps down in
Australia still spell aluminium correctly like us in the uk, the
reason for my handle is another story that doesnt involve dead
insects on your windscreen/shield?
regards,
chris






---------------------------------
Now you can scan emails quickly with a reading pane. Get the new Yahoo! Mail.

Hi Ian,

Yes, my lathe came from H&F in Sydney. I too was worried about
Ozmestore's lack of accessories. Also, he's a long way for after sales
service. He never responded to any enquiries on the subject of warranty
so in the end I shopped closer to home. Also the colour - a red & black
one matches more aftermarket accessories. Later I discovered H&F are no
better on accessories for the 7x. They didn't even know a threading dial
existed for that model. I got one from LMS.

I found an explanation for the threading dial with metric examples at
www.mini-lathe.org.uk/thread_dial_change_gears.shtml
<> that
gelled for me. The only problem is that the examples actually highlight
the need for several spindles in order to cover relatively standard
pitches. Hence my question. Maybe I should browse the Taig store in
Canberra?

John





--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...>
wrote:

G'day John.

My extra pinions came with the lathe and there is a chart on the side
of the control housing saying which pinion to chose.
Some how metric threads are more complex than imperial when it comes
to this. I have cut imperial threads using my 57 tooth gear trick but
have not got the threading dial mastered for such threads, had to
reverse out; I suspect that only 19 tooth (57 is a multiple of 19)
pinion would work but I haven't bothered with the maths. There is a
very good article in www.mini-lathe.com.uk.
The saddle on my lathe is a rectangular block without a cut out. The
cut out isn't necessary on these lathes as the saddle and tail stock
shsre a common V. On Hercus, Southbend and others the tail stock is
on ths inside V and will nestle "into" the saddle. I have a heat
treatment diagram at the end of the bed.

You asked a while ago why I didn't get my lathe from Ozemstore. At
the time he didn't have a "buy it now price" and the price was quite
variable; also he didn't stock the accessories. His offer is now more
complete and has a "buy it now price". After some evaluation I got
the best deal from Taig machinery in Canberra with all tha
accessories. Did you get yours from Hare & Forbes?

Must get back to work.
One good turn deserves another.
Regards.
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" ajs@
wrote:

Hi Ian,

Agreed the 30mm will handle Chris' job. I just baulked at the
significantly different size.

I'm assuming mine's Sieg. Certainly the controller is - they etched
their name in the PCB artwork. The machine certainly matches their
photos on their black & red site to a tee. The vendor advertised
hardened beds. Not sure what you mean by saddle cut away. It's an H
shaped casting rather than rectangular if that's what you mean.

Hand

wheels are black plastic (apron & tailstock). No way wipers. Metric
leadscrew. No saddle or leadscrew oilers. I've bought some oilers

to

install on the leadscrew blocks. No retaining nut on r/h of
leadscrew. No threading dial supplied. I've added one with 16T -

but

where do you buy the other pinions?.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@>
wrote:

G'day John & Chris.
My lathe and steadies are green, probably "Hawthorn Green". The
opening is definitely over 45mm diameter and the fingers open out

to

that.

G'day John.

My extra pinions came with the lathe and there is a chart on the side
of the control housing saying which pinion to chose.
Some how metric threads are more complex than imperial when it comes
to this. I have cut imperial threads using my 57 tooth gear trick but
have not got the threading dial mastered for such threads, had to
reverse out; I suspect that only 19 tooth (57 is a multiple of 19)
pinion would work but I haven't bothered with the maths. There is a
very good article in www.mini-lathe.com.uk.
The saddle on my lathe is a rectangular block without a cut out. The
cut out isn't necessary on these lathes as the saddle and tail stock
shsre a common V. On Hercus, Southbend and others the tail stock is
on ths inside V and will nestle "into" the saddle. I have a heat
treatment diagram at the end of the bed.

You asked a while ago why I didn't get my lathe from Ozemstore. At
the time he didn't have a "buy it now price" and the price was quite
variable; also he didn't stock the accessories. His offer is now more
complete and has a "buy it now price". After some evaluation I got
the best deal from Taig machinery in Canberra with all tha
accessories. Did you get yours from Hare & Forbes?

Must get back to work.
One good turn deserves another.
Regards.
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

Hi Ian,

Agreed the 30mm will handle Chris' job. I just baulked at the
significantly different size.

I'm assuming mine's Sieg. Certainly the controller is - they etched
their name in the PCB artwork. The machine certainly matches their
photos on their black & red site to a tee. The vendor advertised
hardened beds. Not sure what you mean by saddle cut away. It's an H
shaped casting rather than rectangular if that's what you mean.

Hand

wheels are black plastic (apron & tailstock). No way wipers. Metric
leadscrew. No saddle or leadscrew oilers. I've bought some oilers

to

install on the leadscrew blocks. No retaining nut on r/h of
leadscrew. No threading dial supplied. I've added one with 16T -

but

where do you buy the other pinions?.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@>
wrote:

G'day John & Chris.
My lathe and steadies are green, probably "Hawthorn Green". The
opening is definitely over 45mm diameter and the fingers open out

to

that.