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Trevor, Now I'm very glad you posted that link. I went out to Busy Bee this afternoon, and they had a chuck that looked just like the one you pictured except it had a JT-6 taper for $17. I just

Hi Chris, I have never tried this but perhaps you could make a loose plug attached to a spindle. Insert the spindle into the tailstoch chuck. Lubricate the plug with silicone or washing up liquid (

wrote: steadies but good Just for reference, I've maxed out my SIEG steady (courtesy of LMS) at just over 1.5". I had to put the fingers in backwards, trim the prism until the steady was well leveled,

Engineman has a nice steadyrest that looks like it could be built to handle quite large diameters, see(near the bottom of the page): http://users.eastlink.ca/~jbentley/workshop.html John

THEORETICALLY if the microwave hasn't been used for a while, the capacitor MIGHT not have a charge on it as many units have a bleeder resistor across them. BUT, capacitors will charge up from static

It is surprisingly difficult to get any info on the capacity of steadies but according to littlemachineshop.com the one for the min-lathe is only good for 1" so not a lot of good for you. I honestly

The standard minilathe chuck is an 80mm (just over 3") three jaw and I suspect that your 8x14 will come equipped with a 3 jaw of similar or slightly bigger size as standard, maybe a 4". Some of the 8

Chris, Yea, about 1" is right. I had the same problem, I had to bite the bullet and make a steadyrest. I will post a picture in the photos section under steadrest. It is a fairly easy project if you

Hi, Based on an article in Model Engineers Workshop I created this spread sheet which figures out the correct OD of what you want to knurl so that the knurl works out.

I machine UHMW with no issues, a bit stringy though

wrote: http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1212&category= Trevor, Thank you for your reply. Unfortunately, the Get-It-To-My-Door price of that chuck works out to be a

About PVC: Yes, I used to make oodles of parts from it and it wore tools worse than anything. Even to the point that when making a high quantity of parts I could easily learn how much extra to turn

I'm not clear on what exactly you're comparing with HSS and Carbide tools. A say 3/8" HSS blank costs about $2.00 and can be finished on both sides, effectively making it two tools. A cheapy brazed

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <John@...> wrote: > > I doubt there is a "best" plastic for turning. Most of the less heat > sensitive plastics turn nicely if you use very sharp bits with

Hi guys, last night I've spent some hours trying to improve the cross table gibs of my mini mill. Dismounting the x-axis I've notice that gib was bent, so using the drill press I have straightened it.

That really doesn't seem all that far out of line, to me. When being run continously, most motors will be nearly hot to the touch. Generally, if you can place your hand on them and count to 2, without

I doubt there is a "best" plastic for turning. Most of the less heat sensitive plastics turn nicely if you use very sharp bits with low rake and modest rpm -- plastic will self-feed like brass so zero

Delrin (also called acetal) is a good one...just be sure to turn any plastic slowly... -------

Chris, the C-shaped hole in my Warco one is 2.25" diameter, approx, and the "fingers" can be withdrawn sufficiently to make full use of that space. So, theoretically it would just do it, (though I

Wondered what the best plastic was for turning? Paul