开云体育

Here's a place with an 83 page document on these things. Describes
shapes, rakes, whether or not a hole is in it, presence of chip
breakers, and probably more than you want to know! Typical catalogs
we might use (Enco, et. al.) will only have a subset of these. And of
that subset, an individual home machinists may only buy a few types,
or even one type.



Chuck K.

Quoting clypeaster55 <clypeaster55@...>:

I am going to build a ball/radius cutter similar to Bedair's 9X20
design. Gadgetbuilder has one he made on his site as well. In gathering
the materials, it occured to me that I have no idea what to ask for or
order when it comes to the carbide insert. Gadgetbuilder uses a "TNMG"?
insert, which he says needs a 5 degree titl, and Bedair's doesn't
specify. I know I want something that doesn't require an angled holder,
since I would like to get a few of these to experiment with (making my
own holders, thread tools, etc.). Keeps things nice and simple (for me,
that's a good thing!). I would however, like an insert that would be
good for general use with a variety of metals (CS, 6061, brass, and the
occaisional SS).

So... my real question is, what do all these "Txxx" designations mean
and where can I find a simple explanation of the types and
nomenclature? Can you buy the screws they need together with them?
After looking around, I haven't had much luck. Besides, the only "T"
codes I know about is "TGIF", and I don't think that cuts anything but
the end of the week! At least it only comes in one size though!

Any advice is MUCH appreciated.

Hi John,

Just two-more-cents-worth...

One might take a quick look on some of the eBay offerings. For example, a vendor "800WATT" sells the calipers item at good prices - watch the s/h charges however. Also, this vendor has a low score due to his poor communications style and often a bit long on delivery time. I've purchased several items from him and all worked out well. I've also purchased a larger caliper from Australia and it arrived faster than the items from the US vendors.

Take care,
DBN


born4something <ajs@...> wrote:


Hi,

I see lots of interest in cheap digital calipers - presumeably for DRO
mods. Not sure if this helps but there are some at
;
1&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&pr&#92;
iceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=
<;
81&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&p&#92;
riceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=> that may be of interest.

Ignore the listed price. I can buy these at Qty 1+ $12.77 Qty 5+ $11.77
Qty 10+ $10.77 (10% GST not inlcluded). The prices are in Aussie dollars
which sit around the $US0.75 mark. I'd probably wear about $AU12 in
freight to get a delivery to my door.

I haven't physically seen one of these so the catalogue entry is all I
have. Perhaps a 1-off retail purchase should come first. If someone
wants to buy some I'm happy to act as middle man. If a few people were
closely located a bulk buy may be attractive. Contact me off list if
you'd like to explore details.

John
(not associated in any way with the supplier, other than as a trade
customer).

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mrslushy" <MrFrost@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" rupps@ wrote:

Chris,

You're not the only one that missed it. However I am about 2 weeks

away

from ordering. I missed the $16 dig. caliper too.

Rance (sittin & watching the prices)

LMS currently has 6" digital caliper for 14.95.....check it out.

---------------------------------
No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.

Hi,

All of the lathes here are "imported" machines. The only thing HF sells that isn't imported is time. You can find a nice used Made in America machine on eBay or local auctions, but it might take a bit of time and many are true "labors of love" - in the best sense of the phrase.

OK what size lathe or work do you plan on doing? Many are here to help!

Take care,
DBN



film2paper <film2paper@...> wrote:
Hello all, I have a shop but not a lathe. Is the Harbor Freight lathes
really ok for light duty beginning work like brass knobs and slotting
some brass etc.? My work arounds are driving me nuts and it's time to
get a lathe. I have some huge heavy duty woodworking machines, case
iron, and I am reluctant to get any of the import machines.






---------------------------------
8:00? 8:25? 8:40? Find a flick in no time
with theYahoo! Search movie showtime shortcut.

Hi Ed.,

Your experience with HF sounds about right. Suggestion, put the money in a sock and hide it in your drawer fro a few weeks - maybe 6-8 and when the sale hits, go for it. Also, you might wish to add the rests, plate and spare belts to the order - the add-on prices are very good!

CAUTION - TWICE, HF sent me the wrong v-belt - it seems some ne'er-do-well at the company just wishes to complete an order and stuffs anything in the box. I will now go to an alternate vendor for the item.

While the company does have some good and useful items, e.g., the 8x12 is a great deal, they have a miserable but well-earned reputation for lousy service. For example - I received a couple of items back in November - due to poor packing the items were damaged - bent screws. Still waiting for the replacement parts all I get are claims of being "back-ordered..." Ordering other spares or options will take 6-8 weeks but often a heck of a lot longer. Most of the stores are very helpful, but they don't sell parts.

So, I will continue to shop with HF as this work is a hobby - but if it were "business" HF's poor performance would force me to exclude them without question. All this means is that I will have to plan on opening a HF store <smile>.

Take care,
DBN


ednsu <edo@...> wrote:

> Hello all just missed a sale on the 8x12 for 439. Does anyone have a

listing # from an ad with a good price for model#44859. Now they want
539 as of 3-1

I was finally ready to buy Friday (payday) and noticed the price
change - great timing. I called them anyway to see if they'd give me
the old sale price of $439, but the guy on the phone was just an order
taker but he did tell me their current price for it is $499. Also,
it's on Back Order. He said 20 days, but that's what they say when
they don't have an expected date.

Does anyone know of any place else that sells this model (other than
the LatheMaster 8x14) which is priced to high for me ($749+$169s/h)
even with the extra accessories and reportedly better service.
Ed






---------------------------------
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.

Some of the purists will probably weigh in on the side of getting a
huge lathe, but I have found by 2 year old 7x10 Harbor Freight lathe
has been just what I needed. I have no complaints. I've enjoyed
learning how to use it and have made several tools and small parts for
my antique clock repair hobby.

I recommend, while you're making up your mind, you spend a lot of time
at

That site reviews the mini-lathes, shows in detail how to use them,
how to adjust them, modify and tune them, and has some nice lathe
projects.

My idea is to replace the saddle gibs with a pair of HSSco flats I brought
in a surplus shop .I think the HSS flats are rigid enough to avoid bending
under the pressure of the set screws. I think this is the primary reason
that saddle gibs are difficult to set. The surface of new two gibs are
really flat and smooth I think this will help the smoothness of saddle
motion. Naturally I need to make three holes in each gib before mounting.

Hi Gianni,

why do you need "holes"? You need to make only some dimples for the set
screws, I think they could be ground with a dremel.
I would not use HSS cobalt flats to make saddle gibs: I fear that would mean
all the wear will be on the saddle.
I'm thinking about gluing a thin brass or else flat on the saddle side of
the gibs, to gain hss advantages getting rid of its drawbacks. I really
dunno whether it could work or not, just an idea.

Marcello

--
That "surplus shop" you were talking about.. is it anywhere near Turin?

Hi,

Flat for those strips is good. I'm not so sure about hard. That will
ensure the eventual wear will be born by the ways rather than the gib
strips. I know which I'd rather maintain or replace. :-)

I plan to shim mine and lap. For now I adjusted the Sieg ones per
www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Tuning/tuning.htm
<> . I found that
technique fiddly but not a drama. It only asks about one thou of
flexure. Having adjusted them beautifully at the tightest point I have
several thou play elsewhere. So I know the underside of the ways needs a
little lapping to get things uniform.

John




--- In 7x12minilathe@..., <gianni.carbone@...> wrote:

Charlie,



thanks for the infos.

My idea is to replace the saddle gibs with a pair of HSSco flats I

brought

in a surplus shop .I think the HSS flats are rigid enough to avoid

bending

under the pressure of the set screws. I think this is the primary

reason

that saddle gibs are difficult to set. The surface of new two gibs are
really flat and smooth I think this will help the smoothness of saddle
motion. Naturally I need to make three holes in each gib before

mounting.

_____

Da: 7x12minilathe@...

[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] Per

conto di Charkie Walklin Sr
Inviato: lunedì 5 marzo 2007 21.23
A: 7x12minilathe@...
Oggetto: Re: R: [7x12minilathe] Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank





steam4ian <fosterscons@ <mailto:fosterscons%40ozemail.com.au>
ozemail.com.au> wrote: --- In 7x12minilathe@
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,

"born4something"

ajs@
wrote:

G'day Gianni & John.
Look up the EMBHomebuilders group which is a relative of these
machining groups. Its a moderated group but they can't be too fussy,
they let me on it!
They may be able to tell you what EMD can do and even demonstrate it
by cutting your hole/s Gianni.

One goood turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

Hi Gianni,

EDM=Electrical Discharge Machining. I'm no expert on it other than
what I've read.

You might do a Google search for "hiroc" drills. They are a solid

carbide

single flute drill that will drill tool steel up to 65 R/c. If you

choose to

do this make sure it's a solid carbide single flute drill. Just make

sure

that everything is rigid. Chatter is a killer on these drills. Go slow

with

the RPM and give it a good feed. Not only do they drill straight but

they

hold size pretty good. I have used them many times in the past

(retired tool

and die maker) and they work.
Good luck with whatever you do. Let us know.
Cheers
Charlie



_,_._,___






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Charlie,



thanks for the infos.

My idea is to replace the saddle gibs with a pair of HSSco flats I brought
in a surplus shop .I think the HSS flats are rigid enough to avoid bending
under the pressure of the set screws. I think this is the primary reason
that saddle gibs are difficult to set. The surface of new two gibs are
really flat and smooth I think this will help the smoothness of saddle
motion. Naturally I need to make three holes in each gib before mounting.





_____

Da: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] Per
conto di Charkie Walklin Sr
Inviato: lunedì 5 marzo 2007 21.23
A: 7x12minilathe@...
Oggetto: Re: R: [7x12minilathe] Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank





steam4ian <fosterscons@ <mailto:fosterscons%40ozemail.com.au>
ozemail.com.au> wrote: --- In 7x12minilathe@
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com, "born4something"
<ajs@...>
wrote:

G'day Gianni & John.
Look up the EMBHomebuilders group which is a relative of these
machining groups. Its a moderated group but they can't be too fussy,
they let me on it!
They may be able to tell you what EMD can do and even demonstrate it
by cutting your hole/s Gianni.

One goood turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

Hi Gianni,

EDM=Electrical Discharge Machining. I'm no expert on it other than
what I've read.

You might do a Google search for "hiroc" drills. They are a solid carbide
single flute drill that will drill tool steel up to 65 R/c. If you choose to
do this make sure it's a solid carbide single flute drill. Just make sure
that everything is rigid. Chatter is a killer on these drills. Go slow with
the RPM and give it a good feed. Not only do they drill straight but they
hold size pretty good. I have used them many times in the past (retired tool
and die maker) and they work.
Good luck with whatever you do. Let us know.
Cheers
Charlie



_,_._,___






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Hi Mike,

Yeah, I'm inclined to agree. But it's not as much fun as getting
into EDM! <G>

I actually figured a single HiRoc bit at $30 would be viable if all
you want at the end is a hole. But I like your idea. It even sounds
like a viable use for all that carbide & metal dust from around the
bench grinder! If it doesn't look promising in short time he's got a
couple of fallback options identified. Time to pick one and get away
from the keyboard...

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Michael Taglieri <miket--
nyc@...> wrote:

If all you need is ONE 1/4" deep hole in a piece of HSS, I would

try

something simpler. How about abrading the steel away as they

sometimes

do for glass? You build a wall of putty or something similar

around the

hole and fill it with an abrasive slurry, then you use a piece of

brass

tubing on a drill press as your bit. The tubing is softer than

the steel

but it gets charged with abrasive that does the actual cutting,

and every

time you raise and lower the tubing, it gets charged with fresh

abrasive.

Cutting a hole this way would take a long time, but not as long as
building an EDM machine....

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"


On Mon, 05 Mar 2007 12:26:22 -0000 "born4something"
<ajs@...> writes:

Hi Gianni,

EDM=Electrical Discharge Machining. I'm no expert on it other

than

what I've read.

Essentially, the metal is removed by a repetitive electrical
discharge. Do a google search. In brief, there are a couple of
forms. A sinker technique which simply sinks a hole through -

can be

done with a shaped electrode for shaped holes. Then there's a

wire

technique which is more like an EDM variation of a bandsaw or

scroll

saw only with wire fed from a feed spool to a takeup spool via

the

job. Same principle though. Mostly these are expensive CNC

machines

and can do pretty exotic stuff. But I've seen DIY articles on

the

web if you want to have a play. Otherwise, look for a firm

offering

this service.

I suspect it's more suited to small quantities rather than mass
production. It doesn't do dozens of holes per minute. More like
dozens of minutes per hole! It has other neat uses too like
accurately eroding small broken taps. Hardness of the metal is a
non-
issue. Anyway, do a google and check for local services.

John




--- In 7x12minilathe@..., <gianni.carbone@> wrote:

Hi John



It is a plate about ?" thick (6 mm) the hole must be between ?

and

5/16 in

diameter.

What is an EDM equipment?



Gianni



_____

Da: 7x12minilathe@...

[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] Per

conto di born4something
Inviato: lunedì 5 marzo 2007 12.47
A: 7x12minilathe@...
Oggetto: [7x12minilathe] Re: Drilling HSS 10% cobalt blank



Hi Gianni,

That stuff's hard. What diameter and how deep? Any access to

EDM

equipment?

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@ <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, <gianni.carbone@> wrote:

Hi folks



Does anybody know how to drill holes in a HSS 10% cobalt

blanks?

Gianni




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If all you need is ONE 1/4" deep hole in a piece of HSS, I would try
something simpler. How about abrading the steel away as they sometimes
do for glass? You build a wall of putty or something similar around the
hole and fill it with an abrasive slurry, then you use a piece of brass
tubing on a drill press as your bit. The tubing is softer than the steel
but it gets charged with abrasive that does the actual cutting, and every
time you raise and lower the tubing, it gets charged with fresh abrasive.

Cutting a hole this way would take a long time, but not as long as
building an EDM machine....

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"


On Mon, 05 Mar 2007 12:26:22 -0000 "born4something"
<ajs@...> writes:

Hello all, I have a shop but not a lathe. Is the Harbor Freight lathes
really ok for light duty beginning work like brass knobs and slotting
some brass etc.? My work arounds are driving me nuts and it's time to
get a lathe. I have some huge heavy duty woodworking machines, case
iron, and I am reluctant to get any of the import machines.

Hi,

Model Engineering News described one at

<> .

I also have an 11-page PDF of a simple DIY EDM published in Model
Engineer over July-August 1976 (with improvements published in October
1981). I'm not sure where I acquired that PDF document but please
indicate if you're interested in a copy.

John

PS: In relation to the original question (yes, there was one), I suspect
the Hi-Roc drill is the pragmatic results-oriented answer. OTOH, if
you're using a real world need to rationalise some techno therapy, EDM
seems more exciting!



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal" <roylowenthal@...>
wrote:

My personal favorite is the folks who use (& break) a 1/4" EZ-out
trying to remove a frozen 1/2" bolt that broke.

I think it was HSM that had a multi-issue article about building an

EDM

rig. The project was so well done that they're offering the whole
article as a stand alone book. Some of the better quality carbide
rotary files can effectively remove the broken EZ-out without too much
trouble.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Paul Moir" paul.moir@ wrote:

From the bookmarks (Warning, 1.4 mb PDF):


Issue 60 (p. 75-) and 63 (p. 95-) have some good information on
do-it-yourself EDM. The circuit pictured in 63 is obviously an
electrocution hazard not to mention a serious fire hazard. So this

is

definitely in the "do not construct unless you really know what

you're

doing" category.
This is a great method to remove broken stainless bolts from

aluminum

parts, which is frequently a problem in marine engine repair. It is
just about the only method that works if some poor soul tries to use
an ez-out on the same.

My personal favorite is the folks who use (& break) a 1/4" EZ-out
trying to remove a frozen 1/2" bolt that broke.

I think it was HSM that had a multi-issue article about building an EDM
rig. The project was so well done that they're offering the whole
article as a stand alone book. Some of the better quality carbide
rotary files can effectively remove the broken EZ-out without too much
trouble.

Roy

You must have gotten their last one. I just checked their site and it
says out of stock, shipment expected 3/15/2007. Did you order online
or call them?
Ed

Thank you Clifford Clavin. :) Marty, I just barely got through your post without hitting 'next'. I think I'll just wait for the last post on this subject that just says '________ is the best lube to use'. Hey, please don't take my comments as a knock, you bring up some very valid points. Thanks for your insight. And have a very slippery day.

From: rancerupp

Uh, okay, your welcome, it think?
I use motor oil in my motor. Transmission fluid in my transmission. Gear oil in the differential.

So I think I'll use pancake syrup on my Ways. ;-)

Hello all just missed a sale on the 8x12 for 439. Does anyone have a
listing # from an ad with a good price for model#44859. Now they want
539 as of 3-1

I was finally ready to buy Friday (payday) and noticed the price
change - great timing. I called them anyway to see if they'd give me
the old sale price of $439, but the guy on the phone was just an order
taker but he did tell me their current price for it is $499. Also,
it's on Back Order. He said 20 days, but that's what they say when
they don't have an expected date.

Does anyone know of any place else that sells this model (other than
the LatheMaster 8x14) which is priced to high for me ($749+$169s/h)
even with the extra accessories and reportedly better service.
Ed

steam4ian <fosterscons@...> wrote: --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

G'day Gianni & John.
Look up the EMBHomebuilders group which is a relative of these
machining groups. Its a moderated group but they can't be too fussy,
they let me on it!
They may be able to tell you what EMD can do and even demonstrate it
by cutting your hole/s Gianni.

One goood turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

Hi Gianni,

EDM=Electrical Discharge Machining. I'm no expert on it other than
what I've read.

You might do a Google search for "hiroc" drills. They are a solid carbide single flute drill that will drill tool steel up to 65 R/c. If you choose to do this make sure it's a solid carbide single flute drill. Just make sure that everything is rigid. Chatter is a killer on these drills. Go slow with the RPM and give it a good feed. Not only do they drill straight but they hold size pretty good. I have used them many times in the past (retired tool and die maker) and they work.
Good luck with whatever you do. Let us know.
Cheers
Charlie


---------------------------------
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.

G'day John et al.
We now know the blood(y) line of this Three Jaw Chick; she of sired
by Imprecise, out of True.
My wife is a loverly lady (chick) but occasionally she has one jaw
too many, a three jaw chick must be a fearsome beast.

Seriously, Roy's advice is good, there may be the opportunity for a
bit of gentle lapping but certainly no room for the village
blacksmith. We gets what we pay for. Three jaw chucks were only ever
seen as quick and easy for general work; precision requires either
collets or a four jaw chuck with setting up. The most repeatable
means of centering is to work between centres

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

Hi Roy,

That's a rather valid (and perceptive) point. I'd never realised

the

compromises necessary in the spiral scroll design concept.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

G'day Gianni & John.
Look up the EMBHomebuilders group which is a relative of these
machining groups. Its a moderated group but they can't be too fussy,
they let me on it!
They may be able to tell you what EMD can do and even demonstrate it
by cutting your hole/s Gianni.

One goood turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

Hi Gianni,

EDM=Electrical Discharge Machining. I'm no expert on it other than
what I've read.