Re: Dismounting the headstock bearings
Hi Jon,
Thank you for your reply.
For your information, my lathe chuck is a 100mm (4"). As far as I
know the bearings are of the tapered type but I didn't verify,
just referring to the drawing and the BOM.
I have neither any problem with the dismounting / mounting jigs
nor the procedure but I'm only concerned
by the fact that I can't manage to tighten the spindle nut
farther, hence I can't adjust the clearance. This
is exactly the same on the milling machine spindle except that the
bearings have angular contact. On another spindle (the Unimat
lathe's one, w/ angular contact) tuning the clearance is not an
issue at all.
I considered again the design rules and I compared them : the
conclusion is that it fits with the situation but contradicts the
common sense !
- bearings are normally of class 0.
- external cages : P7 fixed bore on the gear side of the lathe and
R7 for heavy loads on the chuck side => press needed.
Internal rings : n6 rotating arbor on the gear side and p6 on the
chuck side where the load is heavier. => press needed.
This doesn't allow any adjustment ??? So
what's the use of the adjustment nut couple ?
Another question waiting for response: Since the spindle id hard
to dismount, how can the spindle bearings
be maintained, cleaned and greased ? The manual
doesn't tell anything about that.
- Should I consider the reverse (fixed arbor and rotating like on a
car)
external cage : rotating bore, P7 or R7 for heavy loads (no
adjustment)
internal rings : fixed arbor, g6 or h6 (adjustment allowed on the
arbor)
On 07.02.25 19:20, Jon Rus via
groups.io wrote:
Hello PR,
My experience with these bearings is
that they can be hand tight, up to press tight.? On an
automobile the bearing is slip fit on the spindle and press
tight on the hub, so use your judgement carefully.
Do you have a 3" spindle mount or 4"
spindle mount???
[...]
1. Before disassembly, make a special
bushing to go into the small end of the spindle so that it will
grab just the edge of the spindle and still pass through the
inner diameter of the
[...]
|
Re: Dismounting the headstock bearings
Ryan, I agree with you and I'd like to add some comments.
Concerning the use of tapered bearings, my lathe came with them
and I didn't touch them until I decided to get rid off a bad
surface aspect. A little bit rough with a ghost wave of the same
pitch as the lead screw. I slightly improved this situation but I
can't manage to tighten the spindle nut enough to go further.
Hence this thread.
On to the other hand, I'm not looking at a thou but 1/100mm and a
good surface aspect and ... the very last 1/100 are extremely
harder to reach !
Concerning a wheel hub, make the experience to put the car on a jack
and twist the wheel. You will be surprised, the clearance is
probably pretty greater than a thou.
On a mini lathe, the tapered bearings are there more for reducing
the stray movements than to withstand loads. The sole difference I
noticed is that on a wheel hub, the adjustment is very easy because
the inner ring is not pressed in but slipping on the spindle. I
found an explanation for that, please, read my other post.
On 08.02.25 07:05, Ryan H via groups.io
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
My tapered rollers have been in for 10 years. I haven't
touched them in 3 1/2 years since I installed my els. I pulled
the rear when I had the nuts off to install some parts for
that and in the prior 6 1/2 years hadn't done a thing. They're
fine and still as smooth as the day I installed them and maybe
even smoother. ?The preload has never needed adjustment after
a couple days of getting it set and my lathe will hold less
than .001" over 12 inches. We're talking about bearings meant
for vehicle use. Carrying 2 tons and absorbing constant
impacts and lasting tens of thousands of miles. I packed mine
with synthetic bearing grease. It's still there. Our little
lathes turn a couple thousand rpm tops and how often are you
running it wide open? ?And how long are you running it? ?We're
not talking the equivalent of a hundred plus mile a day, five
day a week commute here. We're maybe covering the same as a
hundred miles a year, maybe. ?And at a lot less load. The
angular contact are probably easier to install from what I've
read as there's no need to sand the spindle for the slip fit
tapered rollers require but either will last a lifetime with
extremely minimal if any required maintenance if property
installed.?
|
Re: Dismounting the headstock bearings
No, tapered bearings aren't sealed, see my other post, you'll see
that I'm wondering how to ensure their maintenance. The gear side
might be accessible for oiling when the nuts, the pulley and the
head gear are dismounted but not the chuck side, covers on both
sides.
No, it's in excellent condition, not dry ! Oil is present everywhere
I have access, depending on the manual requirements. The use is
quite light, lower than weekly, 2.5-year old, it's well protected
and permanently, no rust, no dust, no remaining swarf.
On 08.02.25 05:04, Jon Rus via
groups.io wrote:
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Show quoted text
I am on the fence about ACR vs TR,?
Did you get rubber seals on your
bearings??
Do you oil them regularly??
Maybe 1 drop before each use?
Does oil leak out the bottom of the
bearing or middle of the headstock?
Grease in TR at least is good for a
while, maybe even a year before needing repacking like wheel
bearings.
How are you working with them
day-to-day, project to project??
|
Re: Dismounting the headstock bearings
You're correct but the lathe was delivered with such bearings.
On 08.02.25 04:59, Jon Rus via groups.io wrote:
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I believe the OP has tried to install
tapered roller bearings and can not get the preload just right.?
I could be wrong tho, even very wrong is possible.....
|
Re: Dismounting the headstock bearings
Roy,
I already have tapered bearings but my problem is that they are
mounted tight and I can't manage to reduce the clearance between
them.
On 08.02.25 01:49, Roy via groups.io
wrote:
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Show quoted text
What this whole thread is overlooking is the fact that the
OEM bearings are deep groove ball bearings; the cheapest option!
An upgrade to angular contact bearings gives more thrust
resistance to the spindle, resulting in the lathe becoming more
rigid. Tapered roller bearings would be the most rigid, but,
sealing them is much more complex.
?
I upgraded mine to angular contact bearings years ago &
have been happy with the results! My preload setting method is
to simply adjust preload for slight heating at full speed.
|
Re: Dismounting the headstock bearings
Hi John.?
?
Yep, my lathe is a two speed one and I have the LMS metal gears in it. To me the gears are pretty quiet. If I grab the chuck and rock it back and forth there's some gear clunk naturally but running I don't find it loud at all. The plastic drive pulley on the motor made a more annoying noise before I swapped it for a metal one... ?But I have to qualify that by saying I think I got a bad plastic gear because it broke within the first few minutes so I didn't really get a chance to get used to the sound of the plastic. Really all I know is the metal gear sound.?
?
I had the headstock off about 4 years ago (so it had been 6 since I'd been in it) when I really aligning everything and the grease I'd put in was still good. I'd used the same moly wheel bearing grease on those parts. I smeared a fresh coat around while I had it off just because but it didn't need it.?
?
Ryan
On Feb 8, 2025 at 1:13?AM -0500, Jon Rus via groups.io <byghtn5@...>, wrote:
Thanks Ryan for your experience and results report
Is your lathe a 2-Speed and are you running metal 2-speed gears as well? How is the gear meshing noise?
TKS, John
On 2/8/2025 1:05 AM, Ryan H via groups.io wrote:
My tapered rollers have been in for 10 years. I haven't touched them in 3 1/2 years since I installed my els. I pulled the rear when I had the nuts off to install some parts for that and in the prior 6 1/2 years hadn't done a thing. They're fine and still as smooth as the day I installed them and maybe even smoother. ?The preload has never needed adjustment after a couple days of getting it set and my lathe will hold less than .001" over 12 inches. We're talking about bearings meant for vehicle use. Carrying 2 tons and absorbing constant impacts and lasting tens of thousands of miles. I packed mine with synthetic bearing grease. It's still there. Our little lathes turn a couple thousand rpm tops and how often are you running it wide open? ?And how long are you running it? ?We're not talking the equivalent of a hundred plus mile a day, five day a week commute here. We're maybe covering the same as a hundred miles a year, maybe. ?And at a lot less load. The angular contact are probably easier to install from what I've read as there's no need to sand the spindle for the slip fit tapered rollers require but either will last a lifetime with extremely minimal if any required maintenance if property installed.?
On Feb 7, 2025 at 11:04?PM -0500, Jon Rus via groups.io <byghtn5@...>, wrote:
I am on the fence about ACR vs TR,?
Did you get rubber seals on your bearings??
Do you oil them regularly??
Maybe 1 drop before each use?
Does oil leak out the bottom of the bearing or middle of the headstock?
Grease in TR at least is good for a while, maybe even a year before needing repacking like wheel bearings.
How are you working with them day-to-day, project to project??
Thanks in advance
John
On 2/7/2025 7:49 PM, Roy via groups.io wrote:
What this whole thread is overlooking is the fact that the OEM bearings are deep groove ball bearings; the cheapest option! An upgrade to angular contact bearings gives more thrust resistance to the spindle, resulting in the lathe becoming more rigid. Tapered roller bearings would be the most rigid, but, sealing them is much more complex.
?
I upgraded mine to angular contact bearings years ago & have been happy with the results! My preload setting method is to simply adjust preload for slight heating at full speed.
?
The only benefit to higher precision bearings in the spindle is reducing wallet weight!?
?
?
|
Re: Dismounting the headstock bearings
Thanks Ryan for your experience and
results report
Is your lathe a 2-Speed and are you
running metal 2-speed gears as well? How is the gear meshing
noise?
TKS, John
On 2/8/2025 1:05 AM, Ryan H via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
My tapered rollers have been in for 10 years. I haven't
touched them in 3 1/2 years since I installed my els. I pulled
the rear when I had the nuts off to install some parts for
that and in the prior 6 1/2 years hadn't done a thing. They're
fine and still as smooth as the day I installed them and maybe
even smoother. ?The preload has never needed adjustment after
a couple days of getting it set and my lathe will hold less
than .001" over 12 inches. We're talking about bearings meant
for vehicle use. Carrying 2 tons and absorbing constant
impacts and lasting tens of thousands of miles. I packed mine
with synthetic bearing grease. It's still there. Our little
lathes turn a couple thousand rpm tops and how often are you
running it wide open? ?And how long are you running it? ?We're
not talking the equivalent of a hundred plus mile a day, five
day a week commute here. We're maybe covering the same as a
hundred miles a year, maybe. ?And at a lot less load. The
angular contact are probably easier to install from what I've
read as there's no need to sand the spindle for the slip fit
tapered rollers require but either will last a lifetime with
extremely minimal if any required maintenance if property
installed.?
On Feb 7, 2025 at 11:04?PM -0500,
Jon Rus via groups.io <byghtn5@...>,
wrote:
I am on the fence about ACR vs
TR,?
Did you get rubber seals on your
bearings??
Do you oil them regularly??
Maybe 1 drop before each use?
Does oil leak out the bottom of
the bearing or middle of the headstock?
Grease in TR at least is good for
a while, maybe even a year before needing repacking like
wheel bearings.
How are you working with them
day-to-day, project to project??
Thanks in advance
John
On 2/7/2025 7:49 PM, Roy via
groups.io wrote:
What this whole thread is overlooking is the fact that
the OEM bearings are deep groove ball bearings; the
cheapest option! An upgrade to angular contact bearings
gives more thrust resistance to the spindle, resulting in
the lathe becoming more rigid. Tapered roller bearings
would be the most rigid, but, sealing them is much more
complex.
?
I upgraded mine to
angular contact bearings years ago & have been
happy with the results! My preload setting
method is to simply adjust preload for slight heating at
full speed.
?
The only benefit to higher precision bearings in the
spindle is reducing wallet weight!?
?
?
|
Re: Dismounting the headstock bearings
My tapered rollers have been in for 10 years. I haven't touched them in 3 1/2 years since I installed my els. I pulled the rear when I had the nuts off to install some parts for that and in the prior 6 1/2 years hadn't done a thing. They're fine and still as smooth as the day I installed them and maybe even smoother. ?The preload has never needed adjustment after a couple days of getting it set and my lathe will hold less than .001" over 12 inches. We're talking about bearings meant for vehicle use. Carrying 2 tons and absorbing constant impacts and lasting tens of thousands of miles. I packed mine with synthetic bearing grease. It's still there. Our little lathes turn a couple thousand rpm tops and how often are you running it wide open? ?And how long are you running it? ?We're not talking the equivalent of a hundred plus mile a day, five day a week commute here. We're maybe covering the same as a hundred miles a year, maybe. ?And at a lot less load. The angular contact are probably easier to install from what I've read as there's no need to sand the spindle for the slip fit tapered rollers require but either will last a lifetime with extremely minimal if any required maintenance if property installed.?
On Feb 7, 2025 at 11:04?PM -0500, Jon Rus via groups.io <byghtn5@...>, wrote:
I am on the fence about ACR vs TR,?
Did you get rubber seals on your bearings??
Do you oil them regularly??
Maybe 1 drop before each use?
Does oil leak out the bottom of the bearing or middle of the headstock?
Grease in TR at least is good for a while, maybe even a year before needing repacking like wheel bearings.
How are you working with them day-to-day, project to project??
Thanks in advance
John
On 2/7/2025 7:49 PM, Roy via groups.io wrote:
What this whole thread is overlooking is the fact that the OEM bearings are deep groove ball bearings; the cheapest option! An upgrade to angular contact bearings gives more thrust resistance to the spindle, resulting in the lathe becoming more rigid. Tapered roller bearings would be the most rigid, but, sealing them is much more complex.
?
I upgraded mine to angular contact bearings years ago & have been happy with the results! My preload setting method is to simply adjust preload for slight heating at full speed.
?
The only benefit to higher precision bearings in the spindle is reducing wallet weight!?
?
?
|
Re: Dismounting the headstock bearings
I am on the fence about ACR vs TR,?
Did you get rubber seals on your
bearings??
Do you oil them regularly??
Maybe 1 drop before each use?
Does oil leak out the bottom of the
bearing or middle of the headstock?
Grease in TR at least is good for a
while, maybe even a year before needing repacking like wheel
bearings.
How are you working with them
day-to-day, project to project??
Thanks in advance
John
On 2/7/2025 7:49 PM, Roy via groups.io
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
What this whole thread is overlooking is the fact that the
OEM bearings are deep groove ball bearings; the cheapest option!
An upgrade to angular contact bearings gives more thrust
resistance to the spindle, resulting in the lathe becoming more
rigid. Tapered roller bearings would be the most rigid, but,
sealing them is much more complex.
?
I upgraded mine to angular
contact bearings years ago & have been happy with the
results! My preload setting method is to simply
adjust preload for slight heating at full speed.
?
The only benefit to higher precision bearings in the spindle
is reducing wallet weight!?
?
?
|
Re: Dismounting the headstock bearings
I believe the OP has tried to install
tapered roller bearings and can not get the preload just right.? I
could be wrong tho, even very wrong is possible.....
On 2/7/2025 7:49 PM, Roy via groups.io
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
What this whole thread is overlooking is the fact that the
OEM bearings are deep groove ball bearings; the cheapest option!
An upgrade to angular contact bearings gives more thrust
resistance to the spindle, resulting in the lathe becoming more
rigid. Tapered roller bearings would be the most rigid, but,
sealing them is much more complex.
?
I upgraded mine to angular contact bearings years ago &
have been happy with the results! My preload setting method is
to simply adjust preload for slight heating at full speed.
?
The only benefit to higher precision bearings in the spindle
is reducing wallet weight!?
?
?
|
Re: Dismounting the headstock bearings
I like the part The only benefit to higher precision bearings in the spindle is reducing wallet weight!?
?
This ball bearing I purchased 1,000 at a time in class 3 / motor grade. It very good ball bearing.?
?
Dave?
?
Here basic chart on ball bearing?
?
On Fri, Feb 7, 2025 at 04:49 PM, Roy wrote:
What this whole thread is overlooking is the fact that the OEM bearings are deep groove ball bearings; the cheapest option! An upgrade to angular contact bearings gives more thrust resistance to the spindle, resulting in the lathe becoming more rigid. Tapered roller bearings would be the most rigid, but, sealing them is much more complex.
?
I upgraded mine to angular contact bearings years ago & have been happy with the results! My preload setting method is to simply adjust preload for slight heating at full speed.
?
The only benefit to higher precision bearings in the spindle is reducing wallet weight!?
?
?
|
Re: Dismounting the headstock bearings
What this whole thread is overlooking is the fact that the OEM bearings are deep groove ball bearings; the cheapest option! An upgrade to angular contact bearings gives more thrust resistance to the spindle, resulting in the lathe becoming more rigid. Tapered roller bearings would be the most rigid, but, sealing them is much more complex.
?
I upgraded mine to angular contact bearings years ago & have been happy with the results! My preload setting method is to simply adjust preload for slight heating at full speed.
?
The only benefit to higher precision bearings in the spindle is reducing wallet weight!?
?
?
|
Re: ANSWER TO GUIDE RULE - OT
You have to consider that the Craftsmen "rotary triple" gizmo for three tools also provides a little flat workbench space on each side of the tool.? That is probably useful.? It is true that you could probably fit two doubles in the same space, but you would have next to zero flat working space.? Of course, that may not matter to somebody if they have some flat space elsewhere.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Friday, February 7, 2025 at 04:02:05 PM PST, Tony Smith via groups.io <ajsmith1968@...> wrote:
The lathe & mill are roughly the same weight (45kg & 55kg?) and the centre of gravity would be roughly at the pivot point (biased towards the mill as it’s heavier & taller) so flipping wouldn’t involve too much effort. ? Most of these set-ups let you go in both directions, mine would only go one way so less chance of it getting away from me. ? I’ve got a CAD model of the lathe, if I had one for the mill I could model the whole thing and see how it balances. ? Tony ? ?
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Ralph Lehotsky via groups.io
Sent: Friday, 31 January 2025 5:08 am
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] ANSWER TO GUIDE RULE - OT ? Unless it would have an assisting motor, I don't think that I would be able to flip a mini-lathe or a mini-mill.? I can barely lift one, and usually have to disassemble parts of them when considering a location move.? Otherwise, for lighter bench tools, I think it's a great idea.
|
Re: ANSWER TO GUIDE RULE - OT
The lathe & mill are roughly the same weight (45kg & 55kg?) and the centre of gravity would be roughly at the pivot point (biased towards the mill as it’s heavier & taller) so flipping wouldn’t involve too much effort. ? Most of these set-ups let you go in both directions, mine would only go one way so less chance of it getting away from me. ? I’ve got a CAD model of the lathe, if I had one for the mill I could model the whole thing and see how it balances. ? Tony ? ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Ralph Lehotsky via groups.io
Sent: Friday, 31 January 2025 5:08 am
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] ANSWER TO GUIDE RULE - OT? Unless it would have an assisting motor, I don't think that I would be able to flip a mini-lathe or a mini-mill.? I can barely lift one, and usually have to disassemble parts of them when considering a location move.? Otherwise, for lighter bench tools, I think it's a great idea.
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Re: ANSWER TO GUIDE RULE - OT
I’ve thought of doing a slide-out rack for my laser engravers (got 3 of them).? The “blue boxes’ as they’re known. ? They’re not too heavy (20-25kg?) but I’d still need some reasonably hefty slides. ? You’d only slide them out to load/unload, and slid back into the rack when running, a bit different to most tools.? ? Too many toys, not enough space. ? Tony ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Bruce J via groups.io
Sent: Friday, 31 January 2025 7:44 am
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] ANSWER TO GUIDE RULE - OT? I’ll have to look it up, because I think it’s on my computer at home, but I”ve seen a system that put’s the tools on a plywood base that fits into rack shelves in your shop, and as you need them you slide them out of the rack and insert them into a slot on the workbench or onto your B&D workmate to use.? I also have seen a variety of mobile workbench plans with similar systems to hold a table saw and planer on either side, stuff like that. Mostly woodworkeing but might be good for some machine tools as well. ?
On Jan 30, 2025, at 11:01?AM, Charles Kinzer via groups.io <ckinzer@...> wrote: ? I don't think that Craftsman flipping table was made for very long.? It might be one of those things that looks better in the than how it works in real life. I was thinking about other schemes an if there is enough depth, perhaps a turntable scheme could hold a back-to-back lathe and mill.? (Or more items, I suppose, but just the two items would be the most compact.) And perhaps another with a grinder, one of the smaller belt strip disk sanders (like 6 inch disk and 1 inch belt) and a small bench top cut-off style band saw. I think there is value in not having to turn things upside down.? Or having difficulty accessing a machine you might need just briefly when you want to also keep your current one at the ready. Recently at the optometrist I was being shuttled from room to room for different tests with different equipment.? I suggested it might be nice if the patient could just stay seated and brought to the equipment like in some Disney ride. I was told some offices have everything on essentially a big turntable and rotate each piece of equipment to you. On Thursday, January 30, 2025 at 09:42:56 AM PST, Tony Smith via??<ajsmith1968@...> wrote: Thanks for that video, I’ve seen photos of that Craftsman table but never seen it in action.? I don’t think I’ve even seen how the wings come on & off, but that makes sense.? The scroll saw looks like it would be a bit awkward to use orientated like that. ? That’s about the size I’d make mine, dictated by the width of the lathe.? Not sure if I use wood or metal, I’ve got a couple of solid doors I was planning on using.? They might be fire rated, need to check for metal.? Or asbestos. ? Appropriate castors might slow me a bit, I like the ones that can be flipped out of the way so the things rest on the legs rather than rubber wheels.? I have seen wheels get squished be the weight of things. ? Flip top table are pretty popular amongst the woodworking crowd, probably inspired by that Craftsman. ? That video recommended this one:?, which is what I had in mind.? The table has stops to prevent the table “spinning” and would also make things a bit secure which I thought was an obvious thing to do (especially with 100kg of stuff bolted to it). ? He didn’t do it but it also means the “back” to that table can have a panel added for more rigidity since nothing would be passing thru there. ? Need to make a couple for the other tools, I’ve run out of space. ? Another project to add to the list.? I’ll get there eventually. ? ? ? ? ? ??? here's a tube on the Craftsman I mentioned?
theres several tubes with other folks ideas? animal On 1/29/25 10:13 PM, mike allen wrote: Craftsman used to sell a bench that held 3 separate bench top power tools? with one always on the bench top . maybe finding that could give ya ideas what/whatnot to do . I think the height of the mill is gonna be the issue .? good luck , keep us posted? animal On 1/29/25 8:48 PM, Tony Smith via??wrote: Dave’s real hobby is beating dead horses.?? ? Glad to see you added “OT”, I guess Dave couldn’t figure out how to do that (despite telling us how).? Lol. ? I’m pondering making a flip-top bench with my 7x12 on one side and the mini-mill on the other.? Wish me luck, I think I might need it.? (Probably should measure the mini-mill before going too far.) ? ? ? ? Hi guys. Sorry to come to this a bit late, I have 2 points though. ? * I’m not sure what the problem is, as anyone can add OT to the title, as I have done. So why the continuing debate ??? ? * I am amazed at some of the replies, not only to this but others as well. Where part of the reply is in understandable English and the rest is gobbledygook !!!? I can understand and forgive ?differences where clearly English is a second or third language. But where part of the message shows the writer understands English, I despair. Doesn’t anyone read through and correct any more ? ? ? ? If rotary table goes a mill it is OT. But if goes Mini lathe it is $&#^$ I guess it depends on if you interested read a about putting on a mini lathe if on topic or off. If do not like what they wrote then? write moderators and say?OFF TOPIC?and ask to have it delete post so no has anything thing to read.?? The bottom for group to be interesting is have something to read about and better to comment on too. In November of 2023 I finally purchased a mini after reading about mini lathes since 2005. The resoan thinking a mini lathe in 2005 changed by time purchased.? I chose to write about here and gave everyone here some read and write about.? No one goes out buys a lathe every month. My first was a garulatoin present it only down payment on a $10,000 today same lathe cost $80,000 had for over 30 years. My next had for 20 years. The point is most do not go out and buy new lathe very often. So hard for very here to say a lot? .? So we all here need more than jest the mini lathes to talk about or this would a very slow group On Fri, Jan 24, 2025 at 01:10 AM, Tony Smith wrote: Rotary table is fine.? Way better than whatever this (or your lack of understanding of how motor temperature ratings work). ? ? ? ? What is next thd chuck on the mini lathe is ot On Thu, Jan 23, 2025 at 03:22 PM, Tony Smith wrote: All that blah blah blah, and you still didn’t flag this thread as being off topic. ? Two keystrokes is still two too many for you, I guess. ? ? (Seriously, no-one cares, not even you.) ? ? The first that only want to see mini lathes only. I seen on some? groups it has to what title is only. Second group?arsed or not wanting to make the effort to add OT to help the first group.? Now the owner and moderators are trying to keep group fun and interesting for all. Then dealing with the first group and second group not helping.? A owner and moderators?have hard job at times. How mush? can you talk the subject. Some think you only talk about a mini lathes and the drill chuck is off subject.?? So soon or later you will have to go little or more off for slow times? Last year this had a long topic on bikes. It was a interesting topic to read I had nothing to say. The important part it made group interesting for slow time. If look at a few OFF topic I have post here in Tilte I put?OFF SUBJECT .? I Like OT Simple hit two keys at beginning? On Wed, Jan 22, 2025 at 04:55 PM, Tony Smith wrote: Nobody cares so long as it’s not too stupid. ?The moderators will be tired of seeing this stupid crap shortly and tell us to knock it off. ? Lists die because of no traffic or too much stupid crap.? And this thread has definitely hit the latter. ? And you still can’t be arsed to add OT to the subject. ? ? ? ? [Edited Message Follows]
[Reason: Sorry used html code and change ] I this some type limit off topic it best for and some one complain and others will anything under sun.? I am on some sites that OT is ok and no one goes overboard. They respect the few little rules.? - ?No political?
- No ads
- ?It ok with Any one's Wife / Girl?
- It is ok for any one's grandchildren see it too.?
Sorry forgot No html codes On Wed, Jan 22, 2025 at 02:47 AM, Tony Smith wrote: When people can’t be arsed to even use OT, they sure ain’t gunna use those either. ? This thread is off topic, look at all the people who could be bothered to mark it OT. ? ? ? ? ? May have few for one for not like OFF TOPIC.? AH? ?for AROUND THE?HOME? For I am OK with or without tags. I enjoy read like good old fashione Magazines?
? --?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism. ?
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Re: ANSWER TO GUIDE RULE - OT
That Craftsman table is a bit bigger than it needs to as it has three tools, you could do two stands with two tools each for not that much more floor space. ? I was planning on making some for the sander, planer, grinder and all that.? ? Not too keen on a turntable, being round they’d tend to waste a bit of space. ? Tony ? ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Charles Kinzer via groups.io
Sent: Friday, 31 January 2025 5:01 am
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] ANSWER TO GUIDE RULE - OT? I don't think that Craftsman flipping table was made for very long.? It might be one of those things that looks better in the than how it works in real life. I was thinking about other schemes an if there is enough depth, perhaps a turntable scheme could hold a back-to-back lathe and mill.? (Or more items, I suppose, but just the two items would be the most compact.) And perhaps another with a grinder, one of the smaller belt strip disk sanders (like 6 inch disk and 1 inch belt) and a small bench top cut-off style band saw. I think there is value in not having to turn things upside down.? Or having difficulty accessing a machine you might need just briefly when you want to also keep your current one at the ready. Recently at the optometrist I was being shuttled from room to room for different tests with different equipment.? I suggested it might be nice if the patient could just stay seated and brought to the equipment like in some Disney ride. I was told some offices have everything on essentially a big turntable and rotate each piece of equipment to you. On Thursday, January 30, 2025 at 09:42:56 AM PST, Tony Smith via groups.io <ajsmith1968@...> wrote: Thanks for that video, I’ve seen photos of that Craftsman table but never seen it in action.? I don’t think I’ve even seen how the wings come on & off, but that makes sense.? The scroll saw looks like it would be a bit awkward to use orientated like that. ? That’s about the size I’d make mine, dictated by the width of the lathe.? Not sure if I use wood or metal, I’ve got a couple of solid doors I was planning on using.? They might be fire rated, need to check for metal.? Or asbestos. ? Appropriate castors might slow me a bit, I like the ones that can be flipped out of the way so the things rest on the legs rather than rubber wheels.? I have seen wheels get squished be the weight of things. ? Flip top table are pretty popular amongst the woodworking crowd, probably inspired by that Craftsman. ? That video recommended this one: , which is what I had in mind.? The table has stops to prevent the table “spinning” and would also make things a bit secure which I thought was an obvious thing to do (especially with 100kg of stuff bolted to it). ? He didn’t do it but it also means the “back” to that table can have a panel added for more rigidity since nothing would be passing thru there. ? Need to make a couple for the other tools, I’ve run out of space. ? Another project to add to the list.? I’ll get there eventually. ? Tony ? ? ? ? ??? here's a tube on the Craftsman I mentioned
theres several tubes with other folks ideas animal On 1/29/25 10:13 PM, mike allen wrote: Craftsman used to sell a bench that held 3 separate bench top power tools? with one always on the bench top . maybe finding that could give ya ideas what/whatnot to do . I think the height of the mill is gonna be the issue . good luck , keep us posted animal On 1/29/25 8:48 PM, Tony Smith via groups.io wrote: Dave’s real hobby is beating dead horses.? ? Glad to see you added “OT”, I guess Dave couldn’t figure out how to do that (despite telling us how).? Lol. ? I’m pondering making a flip-top bench with my 7x12 on one side and the mini-mill on the other.? Wish me luck, I think I might need it.? (Probably should measure the mini-mill before going too far.) ? Tony ? ? ? Hi guys. Sorry to come to this a bit late, I have 2 points though. ? * I’m not sure what the problem is, as anyone can add OT to the title, as I have done. So why the continuing debate ??? ? * I am amazed at some of the replies, not only to this but others as well. Where part of the reply is in understandable English and the rest is gobbledygook !!!? I can understand and forgive ?differences where clearly English is a second or third language. But where part of the message shows the writer understands English, I despair. Doesn’t anyone read through and correct any more ? ? ??????????????? Ellis ? ? If rotary table goes a mill it is OT. But if goes Mini lathe it is $&#^$ I guess it depends on if you interested read a about putting on a mini lathe if on topic or off. If do not like what they wrote then? write moderators and say OFF TOPIC and ask to have it delete post so no has anything thing to read.?? The bottom for group to be interesting is have something to read about and better to comment on too. In November of 2023 I finally purchased a mini after reading about mini lathes since 2005. The resoan thinking a mini lathe in 2005 changed by time purchased.? I chose to write about here and gave everyone here some read and write about.? No one goes out buys a lathe every month. My first was a garulatoin present it only down payment on a $10,000 today same lathe cost $80,000 had for over 30 years. My next had for 20 years. The point is most do not go out and buy new lathe very often. So hard for very here to say a lot? .? So we all here need more than jest the mini lathes to talk about or this would a very slow group On Fri, Jan 24, 2025 at 01:10 AM, Tony Smith wrote: Rotary table is fine.? Way better than whatever this (or your lack of understanding of how motor temperature ratings work). ? Tony ? ? ? What is next thd chuck on the mini lathe is ot On Thu, Jan 23, 2025 at 03:22 PM, Tony Smith wrote: All that blah blah blah, and you still didn’t flag this thread as being off topic. ? Two keystrokes is still two too many for you, I guess. ? Tony ? (Seriously, no-one cares, not even you.) ? ? The first that only want to see mini lathes only. I seen on some? groups it has to what title is only. Second group?arsed or not wanting to make the effort to add OT to help the first group.? Now the owner and moderators are trying to keep group fun and interesting for all. Then dealing with the first group and second group not helping.? A owner and moderators have hard job at times. How mush? can you talk the subject. Some think you only talk about a mini lathes and the drill chuck is off subject.?? So soon or later you will have to go little or more off for slow times? Last year this had a long topic on bikes. It was a interesting topic to read I had nothing to say. The important part it made group interesting for slow time. If look at a few OFF topic I have post here in Tilte I put OFF SUBJECT .? I Like OT Simple hit two keys at beginning? On Wed, Jan 22, 2025 at 04:55 PM, Tony Smith wrote: Nobody cares so long as it’s not too stupid. ?The moderators will be tired of seeing this stupid crap shortly and tell us to knock it off. ? Lists die because of no traffic or too much stupid crap.? And this thread has definitely hit the latter. ? And you still can’t be arsed to add OT to the subject. ? Tony ? ? ? [Edited Message Follows]
[Reason: Sorry used html code and change ] I this some type limit off topic it best for and some one complain and others will anything under sun.? I am on some sites that OT is ok and no one goes overboard. They respect the few little rules.? - ?No political?
- No ads
- ?It ok with Any one's Wife / Girl?
- It is ok for any one's grandchildren see it too.?
Sorry forgot No html codes On Wed, Jan 22, 2025 at 02:47 AM, Tony Smith wrote: When people can’t be arsed to even use OT, they sure ain’t gunna use those either. ? This thread is off topic, look at all the people who could be bothered to mark it OT. ? Tony ? ? ? ? May have few for one for not like OFF TOPIC.? AH? ?for AROUND THE HOME? For I am OK with or without tags. I enjoy read like good old fashione Magazines?
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Re: Dismounting the headstock bearings
If look engineering press fit ball bearing some very light press for heat build-up so ball bearing does seize up.?
Other times they not ver good at machining for ball bearing.? A 1? ball bearing need a press fit from 0.000,1 to 0.000,5 ± 0.0001
?
Dave?
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Re: Dismounting the headstock bearings
Hello PR,
My experience with these bearings is
that they can be hand tight, up to press tight.? On an automobile
the bearing is slip fit on the spindle and press tight on the hub,
so use your judgement carefully.
Do you have a 3" spindle mount or 4"
spindle mount???
If you have the smaller 3" spindle, you
can goto your favorite BigBox home store, (lowes, Home Depot,
Menards, etc.), and buy a small piece of 4" PVC Pipe x 12" long
about... and a long enough piece of all-thread rod, 30" about, +
2-3 matching nuts and washers? to create a "Screw-Press" type of
press with the 4" pipe over the 3" end of the spindle, with the
long screw down the middle, and a small 2x4 piece of wood, maybe
6" approx, on the other end of the 4" pipe and a bushing of sorts
that you would make before beginning this process that fits just
in the small end of the spindle to lock in the inner diameter and
be the same as the outer diameter slightly smaller so as to pass
through the bearing there.
1. Before disassembly, make a special
bushing to go into the small end of the spindle so that it will
grab just the edge of the spindle and still pass through the inner
diameter of the bearing, include a center hole large enough to
allow the threaded rod to go through as well..
2. Stack the parts collected like
this....
??? a. Nut and washer on 1 end of the
threaded rod, pass through a piece of 2x4, then through the 4" pvc
pipe.
??? b. take this setup to the lathe and
pass through the spindle from the big 3" end all through the
headstock.
??? c. Place your special bushing on
the small end of the spindle and over the threaded rod and install
the last washer and nut.
??? d. Tighten this mess up until the
spindle is drawn out of the headstock.
??? e. Examine the spindle shaft area
and look for burrs or shiney spots that might indicate what your
problem(s) might be.
3. Remove any burrs you find, if you
see shiney spots near where the bearings ride, sand or polish or
file them a little bit until the bearing will slide smoothly but
snugly, don't remove too much material.
4. Reassemble in reverse of disassembly
5. If this still does not give you your
desired results, do it again and look closer at the problem areas.
If you have a 4" flange, you will need
a larger pipe probably, maybe a stack of 4" pvc pipe coupler
fittings,(without the center pipe stop ring), to allow the spindle
to be removed through their center area. Glue and tape them edge
to edge carefully and allow them to dry a day or 2 before using
them.
Good Luck
On 2/7/2025 10:29 AM, Pierre-Raymond
Rondelle via groups.io wrote:
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Show quoted text
Jon, Interesting vids.
They tend to confirm that a press is needed for dismounting and
remounting. However, no figures are provided concerning the
applied forces.
Referring to the ISO286 adjustment charts and a general guide
about bearings (),
I see that external tolerances are very low, around 2 to 5 ?m,
that the inner rings should match a k5 or k6 tolerance range arbor
and the outer ring should be mounted in an H7 or K7 bore. That
said, the adjustments are qualified as "temporary" meaning that
they could be disassembled with a mallet. In practice, they are
almost stuck. Puzzling !
From my understanding, it should be possible to push the inner
ring a little bit farther with the nut. But it blocks !
Perhaps search YouTube for "mini
lathe angular contact bearing" and reveal this -->? ?
<--. Maybe 'click it even'. Good luck on your final
answers
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Re: Dismounting the headstock bearings
Jon, Interesting vids.
They tend to confirm that a press is needed for dismounting and
remounting. However, no figures are provided concerning the applied
forces.
Referring to the ISO286 adjustment charts and a general guide about
bearings (),
I see that external tolerances are very low, around 2 to 5 ?m, that
the inner rings should match a k5 or k6 tolerance range arbor and
the outer ring should be mounted in an H7 or K7 bore. That said, the
adjustments are qualified as "temporary" meaning that they could be
disassembled with a mallet. In practice, they are almost stuck.
Puzzling !
From my understanding, it should be possible to push the inner ring
a little bit farther with the nut. But it blocks !
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Perhaps search YouTube for "mini lathe
angular contact bearing" and reveal this -->? ?
<--. Maybe 'click it even'. Good luck on your final
answers
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Re: My new 4 jaw chuck for rotary table
??? Dave made mention before I believe how the cancer treatments?
he's had have affected his talking/typing .
animal
On 2/3/25 2:24 AM, Miket_NYC via
groups.io wrote:
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Show quoted text
I disagree. I admit I haven't been paying much attention to
this thread, since I don't need to put a four jaw chuck onto
rotary table. But Dave Smith seems to be serious about doing
that, and he's providing drawings, photos and descriptions in
his recent posts, so he's not just clowning around wasting
people's time.? I agree Mr. Smith's language is irregular, but
English may not be his native language to begin with.
I often see discussions here that I have no
interest in whatsoever. But that doesn't mean they should be
banned. It means I should shut up and hit my delete key.
Mike Taglieri?
On Wed, Jan 29, 2025,
7:48?PM Whitebear via <jmichaelsisler= [email protected]>
wrote:
I'm out-I feel that davesmith1800 (if that
is his real name) should have been banned by the
moderators long ago. I just can't be bothered to
incessantly?exposed to that brand of nonsense (what
little of it I could make out due to poor English and
even worse spelling). Good luck to you all-
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davesmith1800