Re: LED Machine Lighting Sale
I received notification that my order is in at my local Menards. Based on the number of people who ordered these via the postings I originally made, I suspect I too will not be getting what I ordered.
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I ended up ordering a total of 50 lamps so you can bet I will be raising a huge stink if they are not what I ordered. I made sure to screen shot the original ad the moment I heard about the problem.
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"It may help to use a faceplate. Sometimes we ?automatically think of 3 jaw chuck and don¡¯t consider alternatives."
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While the latter statement is true, in situations where the work is too long for the lathe's bed, a faceplate mounting is unlikely to help.? (Example: Working a 1-inch diameter x 8 inch long bar.)
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If buying one of our hobby lathes, get the longest bed you can afford.
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Kurt Laughlin
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Hi everyone. It may help to use a faceplate. ? Sometimes we ?automatically think of 3 jaw chuck and don¡¯t consider alternatives. ? ???????????? Ellis ? ? ? Using a collet only helps in SOME cases.? The part would usually have to be round and small enough diameter to fit the collet.? Therefore, as a solution to the length problem, the value of collets is limited.? A longer bed is the only universal solution for a too short bed. Length can also be reclamed by using a collet
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Using a collet only helps in SOME cases.? The part would usually have to be round and small enough diameter to fit the collet.? Therefore, as a solution to the length problem, the value of collets is limited.? A longer bed is the only universal solution for a too short bed.
Charels E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Thursday, January 2, 2025 at 11:36:38 AM PST, David Wiseman <david@...> wrote:
Length can also be reclamed by using a collet
On 16 Dec 2024, at 07:30, Miket_NYC via groups.io <mctaglieri@...> wrote:
? "For ME, I would absolutely go with the longer bed.? That distance can gets used up pretty fast with a chuck in the headstock, work piece, drill, and Jacobs chuck in the tail stock.? I also like a longer bed so I can move the tailstock further out of my way when not using it."
I agree completely, but I worked for years (and made several large projects), with a Harbor Freight 7x10, and there are ways to get around bed-length problems. (And these ways are worth knowing about no matter how big your lathe is). A drill in the tailstock doesn't HAVE to be in a chuck. You can drill a pilot hole with a small drill in the chuck, then hold your big drill on the tailstock center with a lathe dog on the drill shaft to keep it from turning. (And that center can be a homemade short one that hardly sticks out, not the giant centers you buy). When drilling from the tail stock, you can also shorten drills by simply sawing off the shaft -- they aren't hardened.
Also, many things held in a chuck can instead be held on the faceplate. Most people used the faceplate for holding odd-shaped things that won't fit in the chuck, but if you're bed-challenged, you can also use it to save the ~2" of bed length that a chuck uses up.
Eventually I bought a longer bed for my 7x10 from little machine shop, but I don't regret my original purchase of the short bed. It helped develop my ingenuity.
Mike Taglieri
I'm not completely expert in the differences and just rambling from memory.
But first, I don't think anybody can say if lathe X is better than lathe Y - for YOU.
It is my understanding that the SC3 has a better motor arrangement and also a longer bed (7x16 instead of 7x14).
For ME, I would absolutely go with the longer bed.? That distance can gets used up pretty fast with a chuck in the headstock, work piece, drill, and Jacobs chuck in the tail stock.? I also like a longer bed so I can move the tailstock further out of my way when not using it.
But plenty are fine with the various shorter bed models.
Another thing I think about is the cost of the tooling.? And how I would feel paying the same money for tooling (chucks, better tool post, and on and on) for the lathe I didn't really want versus the lathe I really did want.? So, I suggest it is often best to go for the most machine you reasonably can unless cost is absolutely a major factor.
That would also mean looking at options other than C3 versus SC3 and perhaps other lathes.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Sunday, December 15, 2024 at 02:40:45 PM PST, Old Boilermaker via <alned03= [email protected]> wrote:
Contemplating buying a mini lathe for home use. Is it worth spending the extra money to buy a SC3 as opposed to a C3 ?.
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Length can also be reclamed by using a collet
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On 16 Dec 2024, at 07:30, Miket_NYC via groups.io <mctaglieri@...> wrote:
? "For ME, I would absolutely go with the longer bed.? That distance can gets used up pretty fast with a chuck in the headstock, work piece, drill, and Jacobs chuck in the tail stock.? I also like a longer bed so I can move the tailstock further out of my way when not using it."
I agree completely, but I worked for years (and made several large projects), with a Harbor Freight 7x10, and there are ways to get around bed-length problems. (And these ways are worth knowing about no matter how big your lathe is). A drill in the tailstock doesn't HAVE to be in a chuck. You can drill a pilot hole with a small drill in the chuck, then hold your big drill on the tailstock center with a lathe dog on the drill shaft to keep it from turning. (And that center can be a homemade short one that hardly sticks out, not the giant centers you buy). When drilling from the tail stock, you can also shorten drills by simply sawing off the shaft -- they aren't hardened.
Also, many things held in a chuck can instead be held on the faceplate. Most people used the faceplate for holding odd-shaped things that won't fit in the chuck, but if you're bed-challenged, you can also use it to save the ~2" of bed length that a chuck uses up.
Eventually I bought a longer bed for my 7x10 from little machine shop, but I don't regret my original purchase of the short bed. It helped develop my ingenuity.
Mike Taglieri
I'm not completely expert in the differences and just rambling from memory.
But first, I don't think anybody can say if lathe X is better than lathe Y - for YOU.
It is my understanding that the SC3 has a better motor arrangement and also a longer bed (7x16 instead of 7x14).
For ME, I would absolutely go with the longer bed.? That distance can gets used up pretty fast with a chuck in the headstock, work piece, drill, and Jacobs chuck in the tail stock.? I also like a longer bed so I can move the tailstock further out of my way when not using it.
But plenty are fine with the various shorter bed models.
Another thing I think about is the cost of the tooling.? And how I would feel paying the same money for tooling (chucks, better tool post, and on and on) for the lathe I didn't really want versus the lathe I really did want.? So, I suggest it is often best to go for the most machine you reasonably can unless cost is absolutely a major factor.
That would also mean looking at options other than C3 versus SC3 and perhaps other lathes.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Sunday, December 15, 2024 at 02:40:45 PM PST, Old Boilermaker via <alned03= [email protected]> wrote:
Contemplating buying a mini lathe for home use. Is it worth spending the extra money to buy a SC3 as opposed to a C3 ?.
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Re: ANSWER TO GUIDE RULE
Tony, ? I agree that the occasional off-topic question tangential to making or fixing stuff can be both useful and educational.? ? Years ago, the ?preferred solvent for fusing acrylic used to be Ethylene Dichloride (EDC).? It makes joints that are nearly invisible, but has been found to be excessively toxic and harmful to humans, so is no longer recommended for that use.? ? If you want to ¡°glue¡± glass, clear silicone rubber works well if the surface is very clean. ? Jerry F. ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Tony Smith via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, January 01, 2025 7:13 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] ANSWER TO GUIDE RULE? I don¡¯t think too many here mind the occasional off-topic question that is somewhat tangential to lathe or making/fixing stuff. ? Asking what star system the aliens who build the pyramids came from, yeah not so much. ? As far as your questions ¡°plastic¡± is a bit broad.? For acrylic, PVC, ABS etc a solvent will work, eg acetone or MEK.? Otherwise use an epoxy. ? You don¡¯t glue stained glass.? There¡¯s 2 types of stained glass, leaded and foil.? For leaded you use putty or grout to stop the glass rattling.? On the old days for foil bees wax was used, these days you use adhesive backed copper tape so no need once everything is soldered.? (Unless you meant what sort of glass, and that¡¯s usually the typical 3mm stuff.) ? Tony ? (Disclaimer ¨C I use acrylic a lot, and used to do stained glass.? I¡¯ve been meaning to do some acrylic ¡°stained glass¡± panels.) ? ? ? From: 7x12MiniLathe@groupsio <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Jacques Savard via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, 2 January 2025 9:23 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [7x12MiniLathe] ANSWER TO GUIDE RULE ? MAYBE? CREATEED? A? UNDTHER? GROUPE? LIKE? DIY? ? FOR? OFF TOPIC? INTERROGATION WHAT KIND OF GLUE USE? FOR? PLASTIC? OR? GLASS IN? STAINE GLASS? WORK WE ALL HAVE? SOME? OTHER INTEREST IN? DO IT YOURSEFT AND WE PROBALY ALL? NEED? HELP FROM OUR? METAL LATE? GROUP MY? SUN? IS? THE? BEST? INTRUCTOR? YOU? CAN? FIND? ?A REAL? CHAMPION
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Locked
Re: ANSWER TO GUIDE RULE
I don¡¯t think too many here mind the occasional off-topic question that is somewhat tangential to lathe or making/fixing stuff. ? Asking what star system the aliens who build the pyramids came from, yeah not so much. ? As far as your questions ¡°plastic¡± is a bit broad.? For acrylic, PVC, ABS etc a solvent will work, eg acetone or MEK.? Otherwise use an epoxy. ? You don¡¯t glue stained glass.? There¡¯s 2 types of stained glass, leaded and foil.? For leaded you use putty or grout to stop the glass rattling.? On the old days for foil bees wax was used, these days you use adhesive backed copper tape so no need once everything is soldered.? (Unless you meant what sort of glass, and that¡¯s usually the typical 3mm stuff.) ? Tony ? (Disclaimer ¨C I use acrylic a lot, and used to do stained glass.? I¡¯ve been meaning to do some acrylic ¡°stained glass¡± panels.) ? ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Jacques Savard via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, 2 January 2025 9:23 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [7x12MiniLathe] ANSWER TO GUIDE RULE? MAYBE? CREATEED? A? UNDTHER? GROUPE? LIKE? DIY? ? FOR? OFF TOPIC? INTERROGATION WHAT KIND OF GLUE USE? FOR? PLASTIC? OR? GLASS IN? STAINE GLASS? WORK WE ALL HAVE? SOME? OTHER INTEREST IN? DO IT YOURSEFT AND WE PROBALY ALL? NEED? HELP FROM OUR? METAL LATE? GROUP MY? SUN? IS? THE? BEST? INTRUCTOR? YOU? CAN? FIND? ?A REAL? CHAMPION
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MAYBE? CREATEED? A? UNDTHER? GROUPE?
LIKE? DIY? ? FOR? OFF TOPIC? INTERROGATION
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LIKE? EXEMPLE
WHAT KIND OF GLUE USE? FOR? PLASTIC? OR? GLASS IN? STAINE GLASS? WORK
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WE ALL HAVE? SOME? OTHER INTEREST IN? DO IT YOURSEFT
AND WE PROBALY ALL? NEED? HELP FROM OUR? METAL LATE? GROUP
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JACK 5
47 71?
QUEBEC? CITY
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CANIVAL? CITY??
MY? SUN? IS? THE? BEST? INTRUCTOR? YOU? CAN? FIND? ?A REAL? CHAMPION
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Re: LED Machine Lighting Sale
I ordered 10 but they sent the wrong lamps.? Instead of 7 watt screw mount base, I received 3.5 watt desktop base lamps.? I filled out their "customer service" form and await their response.
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And I can't even find this lamp on their site.? Amazon has them for about $18 each.? And they were shipped in a Jimmy Dean's Fully Cooked Turkey Sausage Patties box, so I don't know what sort of outfit actually did the fulfillment.
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What I received ten of.??
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Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
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Re: LED Machine Lighting Sale
You're lucky - the closest one to me is in Gillette, WY, which is almost 600 miles away.
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Re: LED Machine Lighting Sale
Thankfully I have a Menards about 30 miles from me that I pass by often so I had mine shipped to the store for free.
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Re: LED Machine Lighting Sale
Unfortunately. the shipping (for 4 units) is as much as the cost of the items.
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LED Machine Lighting Sale
Menards (in the USA) today had the flexible LED goose neck lights on sale (7W) for $3.99 each. I just ordered 20 of them for my shop equipment. They are selling fast so I thought I would pass it along in case come one here is looking for equipment lighting..
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https://www.menards.com/main/lighting-ceiling-fans/indoor-lighting/lamps/table-lamps/flexible-gooseneck-led-lamp/68769g/p-1642874340851661-c-7497.htm
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I have purchased all but one time the longest.
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The reason is very simple space. In retirement you could find a location may not have room for bigger lathes? so decide on a? 8" x 14" and can do milling too. It will fit in a 36" Aumawal or weight like on a install field pickup ?/boat ?/airplane ? maybe for class room ??
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Dave?
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Grizzly G4003 - modifications to RideTheGearTrain software to accommodate this lathe
#lead-screw
#threading
Grizzly G4003 Lathe-modifications to RideTheGearTrain
(free online to calculate the change gears needed to cut a thread.
I had quite a busy time in the days leading up to Christmas. I had contacts from a couple of people who needed their lathe gearboxes added to the program (RideTheGearTrain). ?One lathe had crazy features I had not heard of before. It was a Chinese-made Grizzly G4003 (2005) model sold by the American Grizzly company.
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The spindle shaft is 16mm and the leadscrew shaft is 19mm, so they have two sets of change gears. This meant that I had to modify the program to handle it. ?It would have been a huge job to re-write the whole program, but not long ago I added a filter system. The user enters ALL their change gears initially, but they also click the button, currently labeled "Exclude Large gears", and here the user can enter a separate list of gears permitted for each position (or stud) in the gear train. If the program produces results with gears that are NOT permitted in any position, those results are deleted (filtered out) and only the reduced list of results is displayed. ?
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I added this filtering system a few months ago to prevent the display of results where a gear is too large to fit on the machine. A user had this problem. ?So the user enters a size limit (by number of teeth) for any position they want restricted. ?For example on some lathes there is a casting near the stud gear that prevents large gears from being fitted. If the size limit for the stud gear is 60 teeth, then the user enters 60 as the maximum size for the stud gear. Results using larger gears are filtered out.
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An advancement on this idea was to actually measure the distance between studs on the banjo, and from the DP (Diametral Pitch of the gears) the size of gears can be calculated. ?When there are gears on two 'studs' (or shafts) on the banjo, the radius of each gear is proportional to the number of teeth on that gear. The space required is the sum of the two radii. We can use the sum of the teeth on the two gears and from that calculate whether the two gears will fit between the two studs. If they don't fit, the filter program will remove the results from the list of results to be displayed.
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This method is rather complicated and I doubt whether anyone uses it. I haven't had any feedback about it. I did not have my Boxford in Tennessee when I wrote this. Now I am in New Zealand I could measure my lathe and see if it works. It probably isn't foolproof because fitting one pair of large gears on the banjo will limit how much room is available for the next pair. We could add up the teeth of ALL the gears on the gear train, but that would only work if the gears are arranged in s straight line, which they are not. Some more thought may be required.
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Going back to the weird Grizzly lathe, it has another quirk. ?It is fitted with a 91/86 compound pair for imperial to metric conversion. ?It is designed in such a way that this gear cannot be flipped over. RideTheGearTrain automatically tries flipping over compound pairs and it is quite surprising to me that it produces nearly as many results with the conversion gear flipped. ?A conversion gear with a ratio approximating 1.27 is fairly close to 1.25 which happens to be quite handy! ?So, how can we prevent RideTheGearTrain from displaying results with this gear flipped? ?Easy. Just use the filter system to tell the program to filter out any results where the gear in position Compound 2 (comp2) is larger than 87.?
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Now with this filter system we can accommodate this peculiar lathe. ?Now I understand better why it is done this way. The gears designed to go on the leadscrew shaft have a long extended boss on one side - like a built-in spacer. If you put it with the spaced to the right, the gear engages with the metric conversion gear. If you flip the leadscrew gear over, so that the spacer is on the left, it now meshes with the gear on the compound pair which acts as an idler. This is used for cutting imperial threads. These leadscrew gears with the extensions cannot be used as stud gears. ?So, this lathe comes with two of these leadscrew gears and 6 change gears for the stud gear position.
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Now comes the question, why do they use a 91/86 compound pair. ?The gear ratio is 1.058139534883721 ? The answer can be found if you click the button labelled 'Metric-Imperial Conversion' (which I described in a previous post but now we have a real world application). ?There you will find a table produced from an equation I derived. ?
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I used PhotoShop to make a copy of this table as a JPEG file (.jpg) but groups.io says "Dropped file type is not supported"! ?What! ?So I tried JPEG2000, and finally loaded .PNG but get the same message. Whether you get it is a matter of luck!) I wonder if the message is too long.
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R= 25.4 / (Li * Lm)
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The Grizzly lathe has an 8 TPI imperial leadscrew, so look down the column marked 8TPI. You will find a ratio that is very similar: 1.0583333. The difference between these numbers is incredibly small at 0.0183%. ?Now look across this row where it says 3mm. ?What does this mean? ?Well, it means that this gear combination will convert an 8TPI leadscrew to behave like a good French metric leadscrew with a pitch of 3mm (just like the metric Boxford). ?In the above equation Li is the TPI of the imperial leadscrew, and Lm is the pitch of the metric leadscrew. ?What if they had used the standard conversion gear 127/100 with its ratio of 1.27. ?You can see from this table that it makes an 8TPI leadscrew behave like a 2.5mm metric leadscrew. ?
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If you want to use RideTheGearTrain to find a suitable compound pair for any application, you can enter the ratio (scroll down to the bottom of the page). The program then produces a list of gear sizes that will approximate this ratio. If we enter 1.0583333 as in the above example, it displays a long list of compound pairs that you could use. Alongside each pair you see the amount of error produced. The smallest errors are displayed in red. Now scroll down this list to find the smallest error. Guess what! The smallest error is for the conversion gear 91/86 with -0.0183% error! ?That is the best choice.
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Merry Christmas and happy New Year
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Evan Lewis
Lathe: 1955 Boxford Model A with screw cutting gearbox, power feed with several accessories, hand tools and a pillar drill press.
Try my Free Online Gear train Software:
You enter a thread pitch or TPI and it shows you a range of gear trains and gearbox setting to use and even a scale drawing of the gear train.
It also includes calculations for taper turning by the tailstock offset method, and cutting speeds.
It includes the specifications for many thread types eg metric, UNC, BSW, and BA.
Displays drill sizes for tapping threads at any percent thread depth (with full explanations).
My YouTube Channel and Playlist about using an engineers lathe: ?
Project to build a Greek Hero steam engine and measure its power output:?
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Re: Damage to electronic devices as raised about Digital Electronic Vernier Calipers.
In in shop was a machinist did haveva fling Damage to electronic devices as raised about Electronic Vernier Calipers and 6 hours of more work and tilling the Forman his high quality Habor Freight Electronic Vernier Caliper did not work after flying ??
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I am the Forman said that's OK? or maybe if you bring a Habor Freight Electronic Vernier Caliper junk again it is your $^%%%^ .
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Dave?
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I'm thinking that's referring to a BLDC - brushless DC motor.
The Sieg circuitry looks like it's based on a reference design for the Atmel Encoder BLDC:
I think they used a different 8 bit uC but basically the same idea.
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On 12/18/2024 9:08 PM, Old Boilermaker via groups.io wrote: What is a "digital motor"? As far as I'm aware, here in Australia the C3P has a 350w brushed motor and the SC3 has a 500w brushless motor. I have not heard of anyone having to replace the brushless motor but on YouTube there are many transplanting different motors to replace the 350w one which has "smoked"
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What is a "digital motor"? As far as I'm aware, here in Australia the C3P has a 350w brushed motor and the SC3 has a 500w brushless motor. I have not heard of anyone having to replace the brushless motor but on YouTube there are many transplanting different motors to replace the 350w one which has "smoked"
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Yes, original motor without any issues. Mine is the original setup prior to the current digital motor.?
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On 18 Dec 2024, at 11:42, flyfishingdude9 via groups.io <flyfishingdude9@...> wrote:
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ram50v8efi
Ralph Lehotsky
davesmith1800
Evan