Roy Yes, it should be possible , on the paper. However, I have used my 7x16 in many years to make a Sterling machine, no one will start.
This Jupiter pencil sharpener was very popular for many, many years. A Beauty , and expensive tool. The cutting blade is still available on eBay. However, it is expensive. I managed to sharpen it, but it is not made for that. Johannes ? Lavoll. ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
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On 10 Oct 2024, at 17:45, Roy via groups.io <roylowenthal@...> wrote:
? Nice!
?
I guess the next project will be a wood-fired steam engine to eliminate the hand cranking while disposing of the pencil shavings ;-)
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Roy
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Nice!
?
I guess the next project will be a wood-fired steam engine to eliminate the hand cranking while disposing of the pencil shavings ;-)
?
Roy
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Very nice!? Thanks for sharing.
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Jeff
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pretty cool , a couple of steppers & ya may have the first
CNC pencil sharpener
thanks for sharing
animal
On 10/9/24 7:19 PM, Johannes wrote:
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Hi boys
Some time ago I asked you some technical questions about an old
German Pencil Sharpener. Made by?Guhl & Harbeck , Hamburg,
and I got a lot of help.
Thanks again.
I have made a short?video, check?it out on:
Johannes
Mexico
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Hi boys
Some time ago I asked you some technical questions about an old German Pencil Sharpener. Made by?Guhl & Harbeck , Hamburg, and I got a lot of help.
Thanks again.
I have made a short?video, check?it out on:
Johannes
Mexico
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Re: Angled Backsplash Idea
The lathe purchase last November had bothb.
?
I would make so you remove easily.? Some you want remove. The hard takes wrench set?
?
Dave?
?
On Mon, Sep 30, 2024 at 01:14 PM, Charles Kinzer wrote:
A few times I have mentioned how the back splash on mini lathes doesn't really scale down well from larger lathes and makes things too crowded when trying to work around or clean the back side area of the lathe.
?
"Mr. Pete" (Tubalcain) has been running a series on the early Unimats, and out of the blue somebody sent him a little cabinet with a backsplash that was ANGLED.
?
This seems to help greatly in opening up the space behind the lathe.? The notches are designed to hold tool holders, but you could make notches, or holes, for anything to get additional utility.? Or none at all.? You could make a top bend rearward and horizontal and put holes in it to hold centers and such.? The part here is stainless and must be pretty thick as he said it weight 10 lbs.
?
?
Here is the entire YouTube video where he shows this.
?
?
This is one of those things where my reaction is, "Why didn't I think of that?"
?
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
?
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Re: Angled Backsplash Idea
I have use on some lathes cookies sheets for both backslash and under lathe.
?
Dave?
?
On Mon, Sep 30, 2024 at 01:14 PM, Charles Kinzer wrote:
A few times I have mentioned how the back splash on mini lathes doesn't really scale down well from larger lathes and makes things too crowded when trying to work around or clean the back side area of the lathe.
?
"Mr. Pete" (Tubalcain) has been running a series on the early Unimats, and out of the blue somebody sent him a little cabinet with a backsplash that was ANGLED.
?
This seems to help greatly in opening up the space behind the lathe.? The notches are designed to hold tool holders, but you could make notches, or holes, for anything to get additional utility.? Or none at all.? You could make a top bend rearward and horizontal and put holes in it to hold centers and such.? The part here is stainless and must be pretty thick as he said it weight 10 lbs.
?
?
Here is the entire YouTube video where he shows this.
?
?
This is one of those things where my reaction is, "Why didn't I think of that?"
?
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
?
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Re: Angled Backsplash Idea
Same here.? I got rid of the backsplash years ago.
Mike Taglieri?
A few times I have mentioned how the back splash on mini lathes doesn't really scale down well from larger lathes and makes things too crowded when trying to work around or clean the back side area of the lathe.
"Mr. Pete" (Tubalcain) has been running a series on the early Unimats, and out of the blue somebody sent him a little cabinet with a backsplash that was ANGLED.
This seems to help greatly in opening up the space behind the lathe.? The notches are designed to hold tool holders, but you could make notches, or holes, for anything to get additional utility.? Or none at all.? You could make a top bend rearward and horizontal
and put holes in it to hold centers and such.? The part here is stainless and must be pretty thick as he said it weight 10 lbs.
Here is the entire YouTube video where he shows this.
This is one of those things where my reaction is, "Why didn't I think of that?"
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
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Re: Angled Backsplash Idea
I have a DRO on this machine, so the backsplash had to say goodbye.? I use a cookie sheet and a butchered cardboard box to catch the swarf.? It does keep the mess down.? When the box gets full, throw it out and put in a new one, LOL!
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Jeff
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Re: Angled Backsplash Idea
I raised my mini lathe on 1 1/2 inch high blocks made from Trex and you could also use wood. The photo shows a slot I cut in the backsplash?lower surface. Other lathe photos and drawings available on request. Regards, John Mattis (retired mechanical engineer)
On Tue, Oct 1, 2024 at 5:22?AM Craig Hopewell via <cch80124= [email protected]> wrote: Same here.? ? I first made standoffs of 1.25 inch long small AL tubes, but later just relegated it to the pegboard.
--
Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA
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Re: Angled Backsplash Idea
I used a piece of scrap wood to move the splash plate about an inch farther away from the bed and bent some aluminum roof flashing to fill the resulting gap by the headstock.? There are no clearance issues and it keeps the mess under control and not on the wall, behind the stand, on the floor, etc.
?
Kurt Laughlin
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Re: Angled Backsplash Idea
I removed my backsplash too, shortly after I got the lathe.? It was too annoying for me, and I don't want mounds of swarf collecting right there.? I let all the swarf get pushed off the back where it collects at the base of the wall.? Eventually I reach under the lathe stand to pull handfuls of swarf out, but really it never gets seen.? I often have the motor cover off too, because it prevents the carriage from getting up close to the spindle.
?
Mike
?
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Re: Angled Backsplash Idea
Same here.? ? I first made standoffs of 1.25 inch long small AL tubes, but later just relegated it to the pegboard.
--
Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA
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Re: Angled Backsplash Idea
When I found it getting in the way, I simply took it off & propped it against the wall behind the lathe.
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Roy
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Re: Angled Backsplash Idea
On Monday, September 30, 2024 at 01:14:23 PM PDT, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
A few times I have mentioned how the back splash on mini lathes doesn't really scale down well from larger lathes and makes things too crowded when trying to work around or clean the back side area of the lathe.
"Mr. Pete" (Tubalcain) has been running a series on the early Unimats, and out of the blue somebody sent him a little cabinet with a backsplash that was ANGLED.
This seems to help greatly in opening up the space behind the lathe.? The notches are designed to hold tool holders, but you could make notches, or holes, for anything to get additional utility.? Or none at all.? You could make a top bend rearward and horizontal
and put holes in it to hold centers and such.? The part here is stainless and must be pretty thick as he said it weight 10 lbs.
Here is the entire YouTube video where he shows this.
This is one of those things where my reaction is, "Why didn't I think of that?"
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
Attachments:
|
A few times I have mentioned how the back splash on mini lathes doesn't really scale down well from larger lathes and makes things too crowded when trying to work around or clean the back side area of the lathe.
"Mr. Pete" (Tubalcain) has been running a series on the early Unimats, and out of the blue somebody sent him a little cabinet with a backsplash that was ANGLED.
This seems to help greatly in opening up the space behind the lathe.? The notches are designed to hold tool holders, but you could make notches, or holes, for anything to get additional utility.? Or none at all.? You could make a top bend rearward and horizontal
and put holes in it to hold centers and such.? The part here is stainless and must be pretty thick as he said it weight 10 lbs.
Here is the entire YouTube video where he shows this.
This is one of those things where my reaction is, "Why didn't I think of that?"
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
|
I’m too lazy to look it up but there’s an arbitrary point, about 500C I think, that delineates soldering & brazing. ? Otherwise as said it’s just melting a filler material into the joint.? Where the heat comes from doesn’t matter, I’ve used a torch on electronics (some things really need a lot of heat that most soldering irons just can’t deliver). ? Tony ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Bruce J via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, 21 September 2024 5:43 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Large work holding? And honestly the only difference between ‘brazing’ and ’soldering’…is the temperature.? Both are the same process: joining metal by melting a metal of a lower melting point to ‘wet’ the metal to be joined with the aid of a flux. Cleanliness, flux, heat.? ? On Sep 20, 2024, at 10:01?AM, Miket_NYC via groups.io <mctaglieri@...> wrote: ? Actually, that old plumber's "3 basic rules" apply just as well to brazing as to soft soldering. You're just using different flux and (a lot) more heat. ? On Fri, Sep 20, 2024, 12:46 PM Ralph Hulslander via <rhulslander=[email protected]> wrote: You do not want to "solder" a steam boiler! You need to braze it. I do have to admit I have soldered a steam coil which was not directly fired. ? The old plumber who taught me to solder had 3 basic rules: ?1. Cleanliness is the key to success - surfaces to be soldered MUST be cleaned to bright, shiny metal. ?2. Flux is your friend - apply it to all surfaces before heating. ?3. Solder flows towards the heat source - that was before hot melt glue guns were common.? The basic idea was to apply heat to the area you want the solder to flow towards, not the outer surface.
? --?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism. ?
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Just to add to point #3, the part needs to be hot enough to melt the solder. ? The iron or torch is used only to heat up the part, not melt the solder / braze / whatever.? Please take note, YouTube videos full of cold joints. ? Tony ? ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Roy via groups.io
Sent: Friday, 20 September 2024 11:08 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Large work holding? The old plumber who taught me to solder had 3 basic rules: ?1. Cleanliness is the key to success - surfaces to be soldered MUST be cleaned to bright, shiny metal. ?2. Flux is your friend - apply it to all surfaces before heating. ?3. Solder flows towards the heat source - that was before hot melt glue guns were common.? The basic idea was to apply heat to the area you want the solder to flow towards, not the outer surface.
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Re: detection of alluminium
"Try melting a piece of it? Steel and Al have very different melting temps."
Steel would be easy. He's trying to tell aluminum from magnesium.
Mike Taglieri?
Try melting a piece of it?? Steel and Al have very different melting temps.
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Re: detection of alluminium
Try melting a piece of it?? Steel and Al have very different melting temps.
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Johannes
davesmith1800
John Mattis
