Hi David
A beautiful machinery, keeps us updated.
Missing the boiler, is it possible to make one, or do you need a big air pump?
And the drawing is in metric!
Johannes
Mexico
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It is a 2 cylinder double sided beam engine. A bit too big for my small machines, I will try to attach the plan
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It is a 2 cylinder double sided beam engine. A bit too big for my small machines, I will try to attach the plan
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Looks good, David.? What's the engine you're building?
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Mike
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I have eventually got round to machining the flywheel, I opted for drilling and boring 4 x 40mm holes and mounting it in my 4" x 4 jaw scroll chuck as suggested by davesmith1800. This took a while but turned out ok
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Re: Remover for LMS MT2 QCTP holder 250-005
That is a new one.
I have place to put morse drift key on Aloris?
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Thank you?
Dave?
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On Thu, Aug 22, 2024 at 10:36 AM, Bruce J wrote:
If you have more mt2 tools than mt2 QCTP holders...
On Aug 22, 2024, at 8:44?AM, davesmith1800 via groups.io <davesmith1@...> wrote:
I think miss something?
Why do need remove it?
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Dave?
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
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Re: Remover for LMS MT2 QCTP holder 250-005
If you have more mt2 tools than mt2 QCTP holders... On Aug 22, 2024, at 8:44?AM, davesmith1800 via groups.io <davesmith1@...> wrote:
I think miss something?
Why do need remove it?
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Dave?
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
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Re: Remover for LMS MT2 QCTP holder 250-005
I think miss something?
Why do need remove it?
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Dave?
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Re: Remover for LMS MT2 QCTP holder 250-005
Yea - used one of those too, until I made this.? So much quicker to just drop it in and pop the arbor out...
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On 8/21/2024 9:59 AM, paul mcclintic via groups.io wrote: You could also use a regular 2 jaw puller with a short piece of rod. Paul M
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Re: Remover for LMS MT2 QCTP holder 250-005
You could also use a regular 2 jaw puller with a short piece of rod. Paul M
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Re: Remover for LMS MT2 QCTP holder 250-005
Tried that... they seemed a bit? flimsy for some of the mt2 arbors I had. I even mod'ed them to get rid of the thin section.
Plus like all gear pullers they're a bit of a pain to deal with. With this you just drop it in and it pops it out.? LMS should sell something like this for that QCTP MT2 holder.
?I recall when I did the 2" riser for the solid column mill? and sent photos to Chris - .? He then started selling them.
Also when I did the pin assembly to hold the spindle (see this: ) he ended up making a similar thing - tho it had an interlock circuit.
I've sent him a few things that he ended up selling.? Lots of mods for LMS lathes and mills on my swarf page:
I use my tools for my job. Any mod that can make it easier, more accurate, and faster I'll do...
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On 8/20/2024 8:20 PM, Roy via groups.io wrote: Another way is to use a faucet handle puller, which saves having another single use tool.
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Yuck! Here's the tiny URL version:
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Roy
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Re: Remover for LMS MT2 QCTP holder 250-005
Another way is to use a faucet handle puller, which saves having another single use tool.
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Yuck! Here's the tiny URL version:
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Roy
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Remover for LMS MT2 QCTP holder 250-005
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Re: "Jupiter 1" Cutting wheel in a pencil sharpener
This is yet another variation of a fusible alloy?which is manufactured by Cerrobend and other smelters.? And yes it is pretty strong and can be brittle.? ?An AI search disclosed that Cerrobend “is?a metal alloy made of bismuth, lead, tin, and cadmium?that is also known as Wood's metal, Lipowitz's alloy, Bendalloy, Pewtalloy, and MCP 158. ?It's a eutectic alloy with a low melting point of 158° F (70° C), which is 54° F below the boiling point of water.? Cerrobend is useful in many industries because of its low melting point and controlled shrinkage, including: Soldering, Making custom metal parts, Anchoring bushings in drill jigs, Cores for spinning, Tube-bending filler, X-ray and electron radiotherapy shielding blocks?.” ·??????? ? “Cerrobend is easy and relatively safe to handle, flows freely when molten, and slightly expands after solidifying in a tube to create a snug fit and accurate bends.?It can also be reused without significant loss or deterioration if handled properly.?However, Cerrobend's fumes and skin exposure are toxic, so it's important to take precautions when using it,.?“ We used to use it to make custom shielding blocks for high energy radiation therapy of cancer patients.? A hot-wire pantograph-like ?device was used to cut out molds for the shields from Styrofoam slabs, and the resulting openings then filled with the molten alloy and left to solidify.? When the patient finished their several-week-long course of therapy, the shield blocks were re-melted in a heavy duty temperature-controlled “coffee maker” and the metal reused.? ? Jerry F. ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2024 11:44 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] "Jupiter 1" Cutting wheel in a pencil sharpener? ??? SO is Cerosafe strong enough to pour into a threaded hole & then cut a slot & unscrew it ? Do ya have to use some kind of release agent ? From what little reading I just did ( wikipedia ) , Sounds like some interesting stuff . I've seen & heard of Cerokote but not Cerosafe , same family ? thanks animal On 8/16/24 7:11 AM, OldToolmaker via groups.io wrote: Thanks for mentioning Cerosafe! I had forgotten about this method!
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Re: "Jupiter 1" Cutting wheel in a pencil sharpener
Cerrosafe should be strong enough though I have never tried it like that. I have used it making chamber casts in firearms. Depending on the application, there may be enough "sprue" left over to turn the casting out. Cerrosafe shrinks for a short period of time after cooling which should allow it to be easily removed/screwed out. Do not leave it in to long and follow the instructions as after a period of time it will expand. It is also reusable, just remelt it. Be careful using it in areas that are extremely sensitive due to heat getting the metal into other areas and not being able to get it out easily. I did something like that in a lever gun receiver.
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Re: "Jupiter 1" Cutting wheel in a pencil sharpener
From their site, it initially shrinks, then expands a little after it solidifies:
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Other thing, 1/2"-20 is a UNF thread, relatively easy to find, although LH stuff is less common, therefore pricier.
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Roy
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Re: "Jupiter 1" Cutting wheel in a pencil sharpener
??? SO is Cerosafe strong enough to pour into a threaded hole
& then cut a slot & unscrew it ? Do ya have to use some
kind of release agent ? From what little reading I just did (
wikipedia ) , Sounds like some interesting stuff . I've seen &
heard of Cerokote but not Cerosafe , same family ?
thanks
animal
On 8/16/24 7:11 AM, OldToolmaker via
groups.io wrote:
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Roy,
Thanks for mentioning Cerosafe!
I had forgotten about this method!
Dick
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Re: "Jupiter 1" Cutting wheel in a pencil sharpener
Roy,
Thanks for mentioning Cerosafe!
I had forgotten about this method!
Dick
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Re: "Jupiter 1" Cutting wheel in a pencil sharpener
Have you thought of using something like Cerrosafe to take a casting of the threads to better determine the threads? Just a thought and not sure that is what you were trying to do. Ron
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Re: "Jupiter 1" Cutting wheel in a pencil sharpener
Hi Paul and other for feedback.
My Jupiter 1 pencil sharpener has only a cut edge on one side. I think another model has on both sides.
As I have measured it, I think all screws are in inches, the cutting axle is in Left Hand 1/2-20.
A technical question: is -20 tpi a UNF or UNC? ?
I asked you about this inch system . As I understand, there have always been 12 inches in one foot.
However, the length of a foot has varied during time and country. Hamburg, as city, had their own length of a foot long time ago.
Pls correct me.
Pencil wood: I tested my sharpener with both BIC and STAEDTLER, both HB, however, the cutoff stuff was big differently.
One looks like wood. The other was some generic or composite wood.
But the pencils became sharp.
I saw in EBay? an original sparepart cutting disk: EUR 150
I have taken a lot of pictures: maybe I will make a short view in YouTube ?
Johannes Lavoll
Mexico
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The cutter was designed so you can flip it over when one side is dull. Are you going to do something different on the other side? Did you ever find out what kind of threads the missing screws where? I liked your idea of using a slightly oversized dowel
threaded into the hole to find the pitch of the thread. Paul M
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Re: "Jupiter 1" Cutting wheel in a pencil sharpener
Most pencils are made of cedar - here's a link with more details:
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Cedar being a relatively soft wood, you may need to make the cutter sharper than an end mill leaves it. From my woodworking experience, a little hand honing can work wonders. You can probably reduce honing time by cheating a bit by honing at a slightly different angle, creating a small honed surface at the tip of the milled surface.
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Roy
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Johannes
David James
davesmith1800
OldToolmaker