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Dean,
True inch by itself is not worth the price difference. You can get an inch
conversion kit for a Homier for a lot less than $250!
Micro Mark sells a kit for 7x lathes for $70. Item number 82545

Regardless, IMHO true inch is not a big advantage. You'll end up using
calipers to measure after almost every cut anyway.
I can't recall the exact numbers, but *at best* the difference in precision
offered by using the true inch dial is miniscule. In other words, while the
fake inch dial reads .0400" per turn, it's really only giving you about
.0397" per turn You won't be getting that kind of precision with these
little lathes anyway!

Those who've bought the MicroMark seem to be happy with it though.
bbftx

I'll admit that I'm a new member here, though I've been watching the
list for a while.

A few weeks ago an Atlas 6x18 *followed* me home, in exchange for a
minimal fee. My intent was to get back into some small machining,
and making small parts to repair some of the vintage woodworking
equipment I have.

As luck would have it the 6x18 is in need of several parts. The
dilema I face is whether to wait out the parts on eBay, or procede
with a 7x purchase. In the meantime I've given considerable thought
to a 7x.

I've done a fair amount of research and have spent hours over on
Frank's web site. I was all set to call Homier and order a 7x12,
when comments appeared regarding the MicroMark 7x14. This brings me
to my primary question.

Are there enough advantages to the 7x14 MicroMark to justify buying
it? The cam-lock tailstock is a nice feature, but a *suitable
substitute* can be made. I guess the thing that caught my eye was
the *True-Inch* measurements. Is this worth the extra $250 over
similar 7x12s? Any idea if an aftermarket *True-Inch* product is in
the works or available now?

I would be greatful for any user comments on the MicroMark 7x14.

Thanks, and I hope to be a valued contributor in the near future.

Dean

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Neil" <cobra_neil@a...> wrote:

Hi all,

Here is a sketch of what I need to make (> 20 pieces).


The unit will be used for gauges for my, and a friend's
car.

This will be my *excuse* for purchasing a lathe, and other
appropriate tools. Wondering if someone can assist my
letting me know if I'm on the right track.



The Plan:
=========

BEZEL: Only aesthetic part. I'm using 2.25" ID, 1.75" ID
for the ring, as I can get tubing with these dimensions from
places like McMaster. I'd need to cut thin slices (about
3/8" thick) from the tube to make a ring, then use a lathe
to cut back a part of the inside to ~ 2" ID.

BODY: I'll use 2" OD, 1.9" ID tubing here, cut to a length
of approx 2". Only lathe work here is the threads. I can
make the tabs by using a fiberglass cutoff-wheel or other
saw.

BACK COVER: I'll use sheet-metal for this, but not sure
what's the best process to cut clean consistent circles.


My Questions:
=============

- Is the cut on the inside of the bezel easy with a lathe?
I'm still not sure if the cutting tools will get in there
easily.

A boring bar (or boring tool) is designed to do this easily.

- Are internal threads easy to cut with a lathe?

Easier than trying to cut a short, large diameter thread any other
way. It's less exciting if there's an unthreaded relief at the blind
end and if you run the lathe in reverse, to have the tool moving away
from the chuck while making a right hand thread.

- Can I do the bezel w/o damage or marks to the outside
surface?

With difficulty. You'll need to make some sort of fixture that's
softer than the bezel, yet, able to hold it securely & accurately.
It'd be easier to machine the outside & front after it's threaded.
(Screw it onto a mandrel for final machining.)

- What's a good way to cut thin, clean slices of the rings?
I'd like to avoid manual polishing/cleaning as much as
possible. Is there some way I can cut it on a lathe so
any marks are circular (so it looks more like a pattern)?

The good way is a parting tool and a lathe large enough to pass the
tubing thru the spindle! The practical way on a 7xX is to rough out
the blanks with a chop/band/hack saw and face them to size.
Alternately, with lots of waste, part some off a piece of tubing held
in a chuck/on a mandrel. After a few are done, start with another
piece of tubing - there's a limited range between too long to fit the
lathe & too short to hold. You may need to use a steady rest, which
tends to mark the outside of the tubing.

- Alternate option is to not use threads, and instead let
the body slide snugly into the bezel. Then I'd use a
small set-screw going vertically from the bottom of the
bezel to hold the body on.

Boring & cross-drilling is easier than boring, threading internal +
threading external.

- Any easier way to attach the cover to the body? I don't
mind welding (to avoid cutting the tabs), but not sure
how to do this w/o a tig welder, and that's way to
expensive for me now.

Supposedly, you can buy drawn cups. I've never done it, so I'm just
passing along a shop rumor <g> If the end can be thicker, you can
turn a shoulder on a purchased disc or blank some out of plate with a
hole saw. If you've got a drill press, a hole saw without the pilot
drill will produce solid discs (it also howls enough to panic the
cats & annoy SWMBO <G>)

Roy

I'm trying to make this a science rather than an art, so
I get consistent repeatable results. So I don't mind
making jigs where necessary. Any other info towards these
goals is much appreciated.

Thanks much,
-Neil.

Hi all,

Here is a sketch of what I need to make (> 20 pieces).


The unit will be used for gauges for my, and a friend's
car.

This will be my *excuse* for purchasing a lathe, and other
appropriate tools. Wondering if someone can assist my
letting me know if I'm on the right track.



The Plan:
=========

BEZEL: Only aesthetic part. I'm using 2.25" ID, 1.75" ID
for the ring, as I can get tubing with these dimensions from
places like McMaster. I'd need to cut thin slices (about
3/8" thick) from the tube to make a ring, then use a lathe
to cut back a part of the inside to ~ 2" ID.

BODY: I'll use 2" OD, 1.9" ID tubing here, cut to a length
of approx 2". Only lathe work here is the threads. I can
make the tabs by using a fiberglass cutoff-wheel or other
saw.

BACK COVER: I'll use sheet-metal for this, but not sure
what's the best process to cut clean consistent circles.


My Questions:
=============

- Is the cut on the inside of the bezel easy with a lathe?
I'm still not sure if the cutting tools will get in there
easily.

- Are internal threads easy to cut with a lathe?

- Can I do the bezel w/o damage or marks to the outside
surface?

- What's a good way to cut thin, clean slices of the rings?
I'd like to avoid manual polishing/cleaning as much as
possible. Is there some way I can cut it on a lathe so
any marks are circular (so it looks more like a pattern)?

- Alternate option is to not use threads, and instead let
the body slide snugly into the bezel. Then I'd use a
small set-screw going vertically from the bottom of the
bezel to hold the body on.

- Any easier way to attach the cover to the body? I don't
mind welding (to avoid cutting the tabs), but not sure
how to do this w/o a tig welder, and that's way to
expensive for me now.

I'm trying to make this a science rather than an art, so
I get consistent repeatable results. So I don't mind
making jigs where necessary. Any other info towards these
goals is much appreciated.

Thanks much,
-Neil.

Jerry,
The frame/ways are available at LMS and generally in stock.

As to which brand, the quality is about the same, and any differences
are within individual examples and there are quality control issues.
If both 7x10 and 7x12 fit the needs, pick by color; I wanted green,
but Grizzly is too high priced, so I have blue (Homier).

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:

is it possible to get the rail bed for the 12" lathe?

Jerry

At 08:25 PM 1/13/2003 -0800, you wrote:

Get the 7x12. There used to be some cost justification
for the 7x10, but not anymore. The 7x12 is much more
versatile due to the extra 4" length.

Frank Hoose
<>

--- "tjk2000us2000 <tjk2000us2000@y...>"
<tjk2000us2000@y...> wrote:

OK the wife TOLD me to go get a lathe!!!! I see HF's
7x10 is down to
$329.00. 7x10, 7x12 they both are big enough for
what I want.I have
been to mini_lathe.com but can't make up my mind.
Any thoughts on which
one to chose if it was you and why?

Thanks,
Tim




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Hii Friends,
My name is Frank and I m realy happy to join this group which i feel is of great importance to me.Workin in this field for almost 6 years , I hop[e i can contribute as well.
Well friends , at present I m looking for a fixture for boring of jaws for different diameters (ID as well as OD). presently i m carrying out this by holding different sizes of packing rings for different dia.can anybody suggest some better idea for carrying out this operations?
Regards,
Frank




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Hello, I am considering purchasing a second larger lathe. My first being a Sherline.

I am considering the lathe from Samuel Machinery and thought I would ask the group about the lathes and company before I part with hard earned dollars.

I am looking at the BV20 and BV25. But might go with smaller CH-350 since were I live is not permement and I may move in the next 3-5 years.

If someone has these products and wishes to e-mail me off list. Or point me to another groups to ask my quests that would be great. Thanks

is it possible to get the rail bed for the 12" lathe?

Jerry

Another way to do this without special tooling is to
work the carriage handwheel together with the
cross-feed using a rounded tool. With a little
practice you can cut a reasonably smooth radius.
Finish with a file.

Frank Hoose


--- "evill914 <evill914@...>" <evill914@...>
wrote:

I'm a beginer with my lathe. I have been practicing
facing, turning
and boring with good results.

My question is, how do you create a cure on a work
piece. I want to
make dies for an air planishing hammer. The radius
would be cut on the
face side. That is, instead of creating a flat face,
which I can now
do, how do I create a small dome on the end. I want
to create domes
that are almost flat to moderately curved.

Any tips and advice are greatly appreciated.

thanks,
Ed



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Get the 7x12. There used to be some cost justification
for the 7x10, but not anymore. The 7x12 is much more
versatile due to the extra 4" length.

Frank Hoose


--- "tjk2000us2000 <tjk2000us2000@...>"
<tjk2000us2000@...> wrote:

OK the wife TOLD me to go get a lathe!!!! I see HF's
7x10 is down to
$329.00. 7x10, 7x12 they both are big enough for
what I want.I have
been to mini_lathe.com but can't make up my mind.
Any thoughts on which
one to chose if it was you and why?

Thanks,
Tim




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7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@...



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I would still go for the Homier 7x12 (even if I had to pay shipping)
as it's only $299 and is 4 inches longer.

- Brice


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "tjk2000us2000
<tjk2000us2000@y...>" <tjk2000us2000@y...> wrote:

Eric,


Go to Homier's web site. Click events/shows button. You have to

log on

as a member(free)and they will send a list of sales within 50 miles

of

your address.

By the way I see Harbor Freight has the price of their Mini Lathe

down

to $329.99. I believe they have free shipping!!!

Tim

OK the wife TOLD me to go get a lathe!!!! I see HF's 7x10 is down to
$329.00. 7x10, 7x12 they both are big enough for what I want.I have
been to mini_lathe.com but can't make up my mind. Any thoughts on which
one to chose if it was you and why?

Thanks,
Tim

Eric,


Go to Homier's web site. Click events/shows button. You have to log on
as a member(free)and they will send a list of sales within 50 miles of
your address.

By the way I see Harbor Freight has the price of their Mini Lathe down
to $329.99. I believe they have free shipping!!!

Tim

Eric,
Unless the info is on thier website, I don't know. I just happened to
see the flyer in our local newspaper. They seem to come thru here
about every 6 months.
Matt

Hi Matt, thanks for your quick reply. How do I find out where the next traveling
show will be? I really would like to avoid the shipping charges.
Thanks,

Eric Wolfe

I suppose I should specify, I would like preowned equipment.
-Eric

OOPS!!! I goofed...it's a 7x12. < hanging head in shame>
sorry, Matt

Eric, you wrote....

I am interested in buying a 7x12 Lathe and/or a mini mill with

tooling.

Near Riverside CA

Do a Google for Homier Distributing.....I got mine at one of their
traveling sales a few weeks ago. The price is the best I've seen.
They have the " Speedway Series" 7x14...# 03911.

Matt, kf4zgz

I am interested in buying a 7x12 Lathe and/or a mini mill with tooling.
Near Riverside CA

Eric Wolfe

Backlash of .004 on the mini-lathe compound is actually rather good,
but the compound is not adjustable as delivered. There is a method of
machining and tapping a brass plate of abount 1/4" flat stock to
be fitted to the back, underside of the compound which then can be
shimmed or setup with adjusting screws (like on the gibs) which allows
the compound backlash to be adjusted.

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "bt99ss <Thvin@a...>"
<Thvin@a...> wrote:

Hello everybody,
I'm another lucky person who got a mini-lathe for Christmas and I'm
having a great time with it. I'm new to metal turning but I've been
to both Mini-Lathe.Com and The Little Machine Shop sites and would
like to thank both for the info. I've been "dailing" the machine in
acording to book and the other info, but have a question. The
compound feed has about .004 slop in the in and out feed. Is there

a

way to adjust, or shim this out? My second question is while
adjusting the cross slide feed (three allens) I'm able to take all
the slop out when is all the way out, but when I move it "in" it
picks up some (about .002) slop. I've played around with the

allens,

but when I move the cross slide back out it gets really tight. I've
only adjusted (not lapped the jibs). Does anybody have any
suggestions?
Thanks for the help.
Tom Vincent