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Re: LMS 5000 bed extension
My lathe came without a hole. I thought that showed cheapness at its extreme. Anyway, I just drilled a hole in each one. A very small hole. Small enough that I think I risk little intrusion by swarf. Even then I can just look because any grease in the hole will stop any thing from entering. Then I use synthetic grease using a chainsaw grease gun to introduce grease. Takes very little.? But in actuality, considering the turning rate and the lack of much pressure on the actual bearing surface, once the surface is greased, it may not require greasing for a long time. Using this grease I can easily turn my lead screw with my thumb and forefinger, very very very little resistance.? Using white grease is a thicker kind of grease. It is a thicker grease and eventually it will start to get stiffer or harden up. If your lead screw turns very easily without any lube and then gets hard using grease then it's the grease. If it turns stiffly without anything then you need to fix that issue. I dont use oil because it just runs out and makes a mess.? george
On Tuesday, April 16, 2024 at 09:34:14 AM PDT, Mark Kimball <markkimball51@...> wrote:
On Tue, Apr 16, 2024 at 12:06 PM, Ralph Lehotsky wrote: I don't use oil - I inject white lithium based grease in the brackets.I used to use grease in mine, too -- until I added a hand crank to my lead screw.? I couldn't figure out WHY the LS was relatively difficult to turn, until I replaced the grease with oil.? Apparently the large contact area(s) + the high viscosity of the grease produces a noticeable amount of drag. |
Re: LMS 5000 bed extension
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýAll ya need is a coat of oil on the shafts . A lot like the old lathes where the spindle ran in a coat of oil . There's also several articles on line on converting a small grease gun to dispense oil . animal On 4/16/24 9:34 AM, Mark Kimball wrote:
On Tue, Apr 16, 2024 at 12:06 PM, Ralph Lehotsky wrote: |
Re: Moving my "new" Grizzly G1006
If you go to "grizzly parts" and get to that page and enter g1006 for the model is has an exploded view and a parts list. They have a replacement handwheel, part 401V2 ($35.40) which is plastic and seems to have replaced part 401 which is likely metal and likely the handwheel remaining on your machine.? If so, you could get two plastic ones to have a "matched set".? Or have one of each.? Or if the remaining one is already plastic, then just get the one.? Might be hard to find a metal replacement, but there likely is something, somewhere.. You will also need one part 436 ($8.95) which is the little handle that affixes to the handwheel. If it were mine, I would get the replacement handwheel and handle (or perhaps two if that was what was needed to make everything match) to get the machine back to "normal" so it is in a better configuration if I ever wanted to sell it. On large mills, I find myself using both handwheels, but the right one far more often.? I find myself using the left one when the table is moved pretty far right so that I am closer to where the cutting action is (to observe) instead of being far away at the far end of an extended table or having to reach way over to get to a handwheel not in easy reach. If you can find or fashion a power feed attachment for the handle-less end, you might enjoy it.? Grizzly shows parts for it, but it seems you can a replacement the motor for $503 which sounds like a punishing price and I can't imagine what an entire assembly would cost - IF they had it for sale.? Grizzly shows the entire power feed assembly as discontinued which seems to be this part number:? P1126231 - *DISCD*POWER FEED ASSEMBLY AL-200S V1Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Tuesday, April 16, 2024 at 09:37:30 AM PDT, paraflyr <frechettejoe4@...> wrote:
Using a handle on left or right of the table is pretty much a matter of convenience. Are you left or right handed, and where do you like to stand when using the mill?? Big mills have two to minimize the amount of walking from one side to the other if the work is not centered on the table.? Just loosen the set screw and move your handle if needed, but you really don't need two on a mill this size. Joe Frechette -? "someone" |
Re: Moving my "new" Grizzly G1006
It is pretty common for powerfeed to replace one of the table cranks. I have a Clausing mill of a similar size and same thing, left handle replaced by powerfeed.
Agree I can see where a second handle might be nice to have but I've not yet found myself wishing I had a crank on both ends. |
Re: Moving my "new" Grizzly G1006
Using a handle on left or right of the table is pretty much a matter of convenience. Are you left or right handed, and where do you like to stand when using the mill?? Big mills have two to minimize the amount of walking from one side to the other if the work is not centered on the table.? Just loosen the set screw and move your handle if needed, but you really don't need two on a mill this size.
Joe Frechette -? "someone" |
Re: LMS 5000 bed extension
On Tue, Apr 16, 2024 at 12:06 PM, Ralph Lehotsky wrote:
I don't use oil - I inject white lithium based grease in the brackets.I used to use grease in mine, too -- until I added a hand crank to my lead screw.? I couldn't figure out WHY the LS was relatively difficult to turn, until I replaced the grease with oil.? Apparently the large contact area(s) + the high viscosity of the grease produces a noticeable amount of drag. |
Re: LMS 5000 bed extension
You can buy a grease gun that takes oil.?
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I have made a manifold oiler. I used 1/8" copper tubing solder in a mill block for oil .? Use a pipe cleaner down to meter out the after filling milled oil cup Miket_NYC 5:00pm? ? Aren't zerk fitting for injecting grease with a grease gun? How do you plan to use them for oil? Mike Taglieri |
Re: Magnetic indicator base demagnetizing
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýOld steel or alloys (AlNiCo for example) magnets used on car,
bike or telephone magnetos, galvanometers, ...? were easily losing
their field strength when decoupled from their armatures or when
shocked or annealed. Modern ones e.g. Neodymium are far more
strong, they almost don't or, at least insignificantly do. Consequently, from time to time or mandatorily if dismantled
these magnetic fossils were needing a re-magnetization that
nowadays can easily be done. It's a matter of Ampere x turns. Here's a link that will make Jacques' life, otherwise for English people googletrans is your friend !
This is only a piece of public information, not a how-to
procedure. Of course, it's up to you to protect yourself. I'm not
responsible of any kind of accident that might occur. On 15.04.24 02:55,
Ralph Hulslander via groups.io wrote:
|
Moving my "new" Grizzly G1006
Someone sent me this excellent article on how to disassemble and move one of these mills. (The rest of the stiff in hood website is interesting too). This guy moved his mill twice and explains in detail how to take it apart. He even weighed the individual parts, which was very comforting.? Despite being well into geezerhood, I work out pretty regularly and I think I'll be able to pick up all the parts on this list. Also I have a come along and know how to use them. That's what he used to lift off the head and that sounds quite practical if I can find an overhead beam at the seller's factory. ?I have one question for you guys though. This mill is missing the left hand crank handle for the X-axis leadscrew. (Possibly removed at some point to fit a motor, which was sold to someone else at some point).? Do I actually need one? Mini-mills have never had more than one crank and I don't really understand the reason why big mills have two unless moving the table during some operations requires an enormous amount of force. So should I keep my eyes open for another crank handle or does it matter?? Mike Taglieri? |
Re: LMS 5000 bed extension
Yes.? Using a "wick" will usually work out fine if only a scant amount of oil is needed to get the job done.? It is my guess that the clearances involved in the parts, in general, on these things is loose enough that it might be hard to get enough oil in with a wick. It is pretty typical to use an oil cup for this sort of thing, but they can be too bulky for some locations.? One nice thing is that you can flip the lid and see if you are "low" on oil.? But if the clearances are quite loose, the oil may drain out pretty quickly. A Zerk fitting can certainly be used for oil.? It is more compact and you can shove anything through it you want.? But it's good to wipe it clean first so you avoid shoving debris in with the lubricant. Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, April 15, 2024 at 07:05:51 PM PDT, upand_at_them via groups.io <upand_at_them@...> wrote:
Drill a hole and push a piece of felt into it.? It will keep the swarf out, but still allow oil through. Mike |
Re: LMS 5000 bed extension
I think most people just drill them for push-in button oilers, so it would depend on the size of the oilers.? Could just drill a hole and oil through there, but that leaves the possibility of contamination from machining particles.
On Monday, April 15th, 2024 at 8:04 PM, Stan Gammons via groups.io <buttercup11421@...> wrote: The lead screw brackets on my mini lathe do not have oil holes. Anyone know what size they should be? |
Re: LMS 5000 bed extension
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThe lead screw brackets on my mini lathe do not have oil holes.? Anyone know what size they should be?Stan On 4/15/24 08:50, Ralph Lehotsky wrote:
I drilled and tapped my lead screw brackets and added zerk fittings.? Some others prefer oil, but I like zerks.? They work well on John Deere equipment bearings, so I trust them. |
Re: LMS 5000 bed extension
Aren't zerk fitting for injecting grease with a grease gun? How do you plan to use them for oil? Mike Taglieri? On Mon, Apr 15, 2024, 9:50 AM Ralph Lehotsky via <ralphlehotsky=[email protected]> wrote: I drilled and tapped my lead screw brackets and added zerk fittings.? Some others prefer oil, but I like zerks.? They work well on John Deere equipment bearings, so I trust them. |
Re: Magnetic indicator base demagnetizing
Actually, use non-magnetic tools - there are things other than brass that are non-magnetic! I'm fond of getting a bag of popsicle sticks from a craft store & shaping them into useful tools. There are also a bunch of useful plastic tools made for working with adhesives.
Roy |
Re: Magnetic indicator base demagnetizing
ho? remember? also only? use? brass tools? to? work on? these?? like? worl? on magnetron?? if? you? work? on magnetron? whit a? iron? toll? you modify? his mag power? and? it not? work? after it is? the same? ?here if? you? work? whit? iron? you modify? the? power of? mag? of? the 2? ?part?? and? it is? not? blance? after? ?? jack 47 71 |