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Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories
I did say small wood working. Should have been clearer. Ment small jobs more than once or twice. If just once, yea, I might use my lathe but boy I would really have to think about it. I think once you get into using the metal lathe for woodworking, one might find themselves doing more. Thus my personal thoughts on getting a small wood lathe rather than messing up my metal lathe.? george
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 05:51:45 PM PDT, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
You have to clean wood lathes, too. Also, you would typically be using hand tools (which you also have to buy or make) on a tool rest where sometimes the metal working setup can be handy. For something that is done rarely, or even just once.? Using what you having and just cleaning it is vastly more economical. Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 01:51:19 PM PDT, gcvisalia@... <gcvisalia@...> wrote:
I think that if I just had to do small wood turning I would rather get a small wood turning machine rather than mess with all that cleaning and such to my metal lathe. george
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 01:26:36 PM PDT, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
I have used the mini-lathe for wood from time to time.? And I really do NOT like to use a metal lathe for wood. However, I make sure it is first wiped thoroughly, so it is as "dry" as possible. After I'm done, I thoroughly clean and re-oil - immediately. A really big difference between metal chips and wood chips (sawdust) is the wood contains MOISTURE.? And that can cause rust very quickly. Here are couple of photos (taken before I removed the backsplash which I think is annoying and, in the way, and is something I don't think scales down well from larger machines). This is making wood donuts which will later be cut as 90 degree trim pieces for a children's model railroad layout I built for a railroad museum. After assembly to form one of the completed corners of the layout table. Here it is pressed into service to make wagon wheel hubs for a 1/10 scale stagecoach kit to improve on what was provided in the kit.? Note all the sawdust accumulating on the ways.? I didn't let it sit there long. And being more powdery and almost lighter than air, it might get into places more easily than metal chips.? But I haven't done it enough to notice any issue.? If possible, or if nervous about that, I suppose entry points to places could be taped over or something temporarily. Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 12:35:15 PM PDT, Paul Fox <pgf@...> wrote:
For those of you that have used your mini-lathes to turn projects from wood:? ?what precautions or preparations have you found useful, for keeping any wood sawdust or chips from making a mess of your oily lathe? paul |
Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories
You have to clean wood lathes, too. Also, you would typically be using hand tools (which you also have to buy or make) on a tool rest where sometimes the metal working setup can be handy. For something that is done rarely, or even just once.? Using what you having and just cleaning it is vastly more economical. Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 01:51:19 PM PDT, gcvisalia@... <gcvisalia@...> wrote:
I think that if I just had to do small wood turning I would rather get a small wood turning machine rather than mess with all that cleaning and such to my metal lathe. george
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 01:26:36 PM PDT, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
I have used the mini-lathe for wood from time to time.? And I really do NOT like to use a metal lathe for wood. However, I make sure it is first wiped thoroughly, so it is as "dry" as possible. After I'm done, I thoroughly clean and re-oil - immediately. A really big difference between metal chips and wood chips (sawdust) is the wood contains MOISTURE.? And that can cause rust very quickly. Here are couple of photos (taken before I removed the backsplash which I think is annoying and, in the way, and is something I don't think scales down well from larger machines). This is making wood donuts which will later be cut as 90 degree trim pieces for a children's model railroad layout I built for a railroad museum. After assembly to form one of the completed corners of the layout table. Here it is pressed into service to make wagon wheel hubs for a 1/10 scale stagecoach kit to improve on what was provided in the kit.? Note all the sawdust accumulating on the ways.? I didn't let it sit there long. And being more powdery and almost lighter than air, it might get into places more easily than metal chips.? But I haven't done it enough to notice any issue.? If possible, or if nervous about that, I suppose entry points to places could be taped over or something temporarily. Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 12:35:15 PM PDT, Paul Fox <pgf@...> wrote:
For those of you that have used your mini-lathes to turn projects from wood:? ?what precautions or preparations have you found useful, for keeping any wood sawdust or chips from making a mess of your oily lathe? paul |
Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories
I actually HAVE a wood-turning lathe as part of my Shopsmith Mark V, but I've never used it. (I use the other tools on the Shopsmith all the time, as often for for cutting metal as for wood). So when I need to turn small wooden things, I do it on the minilathe. I think the fear of water is overblown. First, you're probably not turning GREEN wood but seasoned wood, which doesn't have much water in it (although sawdust can attract water). Second, what do you think the WD in WD-40 stands for?? People are always knocking WD-40 here, saying it's "a water-displacement compound, not a lubricant."? It actually is a light waxy lubricant dissolved in solvent, but they're completely right that water displacement is what the stuff was invented for.? So spray your lathe with WD-40 before you start turning the wood, then wipe it down afterwards and you'll be fine.? Concerning the backsplash and water getting trapped there, I thought everybody already removed those and threw them away. That's certainly what I did. I don't think a backsplash is particularly useful on a tiny lathe with so little room between the backsplash and the lathe bed. But if you're fond of your backsplash spray those seams with WD-40 also. Finally, drilling tiny holes and cutting wood are the only times I use the "high" range on the minilathe.? They recommend against doing a lot of wood turning on Myford, South Bend, and other lathes with bronze bearings, because the high speeds necessary for wood turning can overheat the bearings. But our lathes do perfectly fine at those speeds. Mike Taglieri? On Fri, Apr 19, 2024, 6:22 PM Walter Wpg via <walter.wpg=[email protected]> wrote: Like many of us here, I have made a few accessories for my mini-lathe and my micro-mill - stops, carriage clamps, indicator holders, things like that. I don't think I have ever copied an existing design, mostly because I don't have easy access to the large blocks of steel or aluminum that those designs often need. So, I figure out a design based on the raw materials that I have on-hand. In figuring out a design, I almost always make up a proof-of-concept model made out of wood. I don't have a huge scrap bin of steel, brass, and aluminum, but I do have plenty of hardwood, Baltic Birch plywood, and lots of woodworking tools. With the wood model, I figure out approximate dimensions, where to put holes and fasteners, will the accessory interfere with features of the lathe, etc. I'm not afraid to re-make wood parts that aren't quite right. Eventually, when I have the design worked out, I'll make a metal version. But in some cases, the wood model has been good enough for my needs. I used a wooden spindle crank for a number of years, and I still use a couple of wooden indicator holders (which have embedded rare earth magnets). |
Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýYou could go the way of wood lathes, and set up a vacuum cleaner at the point of cutting to catch the majority of the sawdust :You could probably cobble together something with a shop vac and cardboard for a one-off ?use. But if you¡¯re going to do this kind of thing more regularly, I¡¯d just use my mini-lathe to make the metal parts for a wood lathe, which has vastly lower mechanical and precision requirements. Pretty much all you need is a motor at one end, a tailstock at the other and some sort of tool rest that lets you put the tool cutting edge at center height.
--? Bruce Johnson "Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD |
Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories
I think that if I just had to do small wood turning I would rather get a small wood turning machine rather than mess with all that cleaning and such to my metal lathe. george
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 01:26:36 PM PDT, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
I have used the mini-lathe for wood from time to time.? And I really do NOT like to use a metal lathe for wood. However, I make sure it is first wiped thoroughly, so it is as "dry" as possible. After I'm done, I thoroughly clean and re-oil - immediately. A really big difference between metal chips and wood chips (sawdust) is the wood contains MOISTURE.? And that can cause rust very quickly. Here are couple of photos (taken before I removed the backsplash which I think is annoying and, in the way, and is something I don't think scales down well from larger machines). This is making wood donuts which will later be cut as 90 degree trim pieces for a children's model railroad layout I built for a railroad museum. After assembly to form one of the completed corners of the layout table. Here it is pressed into service to make wagon wheel hubs for a 1/10 scale stagecoach kit to improve on what was provided in the kit.? Note all the sawdust accumulating on the ways.? I didn't let it sit there long. And being more powdery and almost lighter than air, it might get into places more easily than metal chips.? But I haven't done it enough to notice any issue.? If possible, or if nervous about that, I suppose entry points to places could be taped over or something temporarily. Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 12:35:15 PM PDT, Paul Fox <pgf@...> wrote:
For those of you that have used your mini-lathes to turn projects from wood:? ?what precautions or preparations have you found useful, for keeping any wood sawdust or chips from making a mess of your oily lathe? paul |
Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories
I have used the mini-lathe for wood from time to time.? And I really do NOT like to use a metal lathe for wood. However, I make sure it is first wiped thoroughly, so it is as "dry" as possible. After I'm done, I thoroughly clean and re-oil - immediately. A really big difference between metal chips and wood chips (sawdust) is the wood contains MOISTURE.? And that can cause rust very quickly. Here are couple of photos (taken before I removed the backsplash which I think is annoying and, in the way, and is something I don't think scales down well from larger machines). This is making wood donuts which will later be cut as 90 degree trim pieces for a children's model railroad layout I built for a railroad museum. After assembly to form one of the completed corners of the layout table. Here it is pressed into service to make wagon wheel hubs for a 1/10 scale stagecoach kit to improve on what was provided in the kit.? Note all the sawdust accumulating on the ways.? I didn't let it sit there long. And being more powdery and almost lighter than air, it might get into places more easily than metal chips.? But I haven't done it enough to notice any issue.? If possible, or if nervous about that, I suppose entry points to places could be taped over or something temporarily. Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 12:35:15 PM PDT, Paul Fox <pgf@...> wrote:
For those of you that have used your mini-lathes to turn projects from wood:? ?what precautions or preparations have you found useful, for keeping any wood sawdust or chips from making a mess of your oily lathe? paul |
Re: Dial indicator disassembly
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Show quoted text
Right, but I'm trying to fix it. |
Re: Dial indicator disassembly
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý??? It still works if ya zero it . I thought those 2" ones cost a
fair bit more than a 1" but Shars has one for 28 bucks if ya order
online , but probably another 20 bucks freight ? animal On 4/22/24 5:45 PM, upand_at_them via
groups.io wrote:
Unfortunately, mine is like none of those.? No screws or retainers holding it on. |
Re: Dial indicator disassembly
Not familiar with the LMS.? However, I just had an older Mitutoyo apart that I bought used off ebay.? The bezel and housing gets pried off - there are wire spring retainers in a groove that keep it in place. That said, I have other indicators that have snap rings holding the bezel on, and some I haven't figured out how to get apart.? I think the Federals have a small gap in the bezel housing that you stick a tool into...
On Monday, April 22nd, 2024 at 8:22 PM, upand_at_them via groups.io <upand_at_them@...> wrote: Has anyone had one of the LMS 2" dial indicators apart?? I got a used one for just a few dollars and it needs a little fixing.? The needle is bent, but I can't get the front bezel off. |
Re: Tailstock nut
Dear Mike,
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Show quoted text
Thank you. That¡¯s an XLNT idea. David On 20 Apr 2024, at 02:45, mike allen <animal@...> wrote: |
Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories
"I am the only one doing this?" Nope, I've done it many times. With a new, experimental idea, you can't be sure it'll work at all until you make a prototype and try it.? Might as well make that prototype out of plentiful and inexpensive material. Mike Taglieri? On Fri, Apr 19, 2024, 6:22 PM Walter Wpg via <walter.wpg=[email protected]> wrote: Like many of us here, I have made a few accessories for my mini-lathe and my micro-mill - stops, carriage clamps, indicator holders, things like that. I don't think I have ever copied an existing design, mostly because I don't have easy access to the large blocks of steel or aluminum that those designs often need. So, I figure out a design based on the raw materials that I have on-hand. In figuring out a design, I almost always make up a proof-of-concept model made out of wood. I don't have a huge scrap bin of steel, brass, and aluminum, but I do have plenty of hardwood, Baltic Birch plywood, and lots of woodworking tools. With the wood model, I figure out approximate dimensions, where to put holes and fasteners, will the accessory interfere with features of the lathe, etc. I'm not afraid to re-make wood parts that aren't quite right. Eventually, when I have the design worked out, I'll make a metal version. But in some cases, the wood model has been good enough for my needs. I used a wooden spindle crank for a number of years, and I still use a couple of wooden indicator holders (which have embedded rare earth magnets). |
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