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Re: Mini-mill vs. Mill-drill?

 

The small mill drill I have I was able to eliminate the vibration and the torque of head.?
I I stall a torque arm and fill the columns with concrete.??
Nice mill now.

Dave?

mike allen
11:09am? ?
I think they made that mill/drill with 3 different table lengths . I have one with a I believe 30" table unfortunately it's buried rite now at our other place so I can't get any dimensions for you . It is a heavy machine & that will help with some on vibration
Re: Motor protection

 

Herd one way use a thermometer like this one.
Re: Mini-mill vs. Mill-drill?

 

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I think they made that mill/drill with 3 different table lengths . I have one with a I believe 30" table unfortunately it's buried rite now at our other place so I can't get any dimensions for you .? It is a heavy machine & that will help with some on vibration . If a guy/gal spends some time setting the machine up their a pretty capable machine that can & has done a lot of real nice work . Since yer gonna be taking it apart to move take some set up tools with ya ad if ya find some things out of true that's a bargaining tool & ya can do some shimming on reassembly . That whole discussion on the head loosing tram if its raised or lowered can be a BS argument in some cases but that can be a later discussion .

good luck , hope ya feel better

animal

On 4/9/24 3:29 AM, Miket_NYC wrote:

Monday night I was looking at the latest Home Shop Machinist and saw a cover story about someone making new dials for his Jet mill-drill so theyd look more like Bridgeport dials. (This involved designing a machine to engrave the new dials, designing another machine to resharpen carbide engraving tools to needle sharp points, etc. People in HSM often go overboard in cover articles, perhaps to get to be cover articles).

I paid little attention to the modification story, but I was intrigued by the mill-drill itself. I have a Harbor Freight mini-mill (the one with the tiltable column) that I bought in 2017. It's given me good service and I love using it for drilling, but its low power and small capacity have sometimes been a trial.

For example, when I was restoring my South Bend shaper, I had to make a new gib for the shaper ram out of phosphor bronze. The SB gib is a foot long, and that's the exact length of the table on the mini-mill. So milling the edges of the gib was a mess and cutting oil grooves in it was even worse. I had to keep unclamping the work and moving it on the table, because a one-foot table gives you much less then a foot of table TRAVEL, and a table as long as the work means you can't clamp it on both ends at the same time.?

The thing that saved me on that shaper gib job was that it works fine and will never be seen by human eyes until after I'm dead. But if that had been practically anything else, I would've has to scrap the part (probably several? times), in metal that cost $100/square foot.? Also, even on the lower speed setting, this mini-mill doesn’t have much power.

But the mill-drill in that story had twice as long a table and more capacity in every area,? plus a 2 HP motor. (With real American horses, not Chinese horses). So I looked on ebay to see what they sell for and discovered that the Grizzly equivalent is for sale right across the river in Brooklyn right now, for a used price similar to what I paid for my mini-mill in 2017.


What do people think of this? I know there's criticism of round-columned mill-drills because the head can move from side to side when changing height but I could figure out ways around that, and I'd much rather have that problem than to try to make something more rigid or more powerful then it was designed to be.

?I was originally hesitant about the weight of the thing since I lived by myself and drive a VW GTI. But it looks like it can break down into pieces, and I could make several trips.

I'm sick with a cold, so I'm not visiting the seller immediately, but probably will later this week.

Mike Taglieri?
Re: Mini-mill vs. Mill-drill?

 

I owned a lot mills in my life.
They all took a lot space.
The bench I have today is only 9x5 stoke.
Does everything I need today in retirement.?

Dave?

Miket_NYC
3:29am? ?
Monday?

I'm sick with a cold, so I'm not visiting the seller immediately, but probably will later this week.
?
Mike Taglieri
Re: Mini-mill vs. Mill-drill?

 

Oops, missing words in my last post.

One sentence should be:

The primary compromise I suspect most people think about with the "mill-drill" machines is that they are giving up THE KNEE.? And therefore, giving up a much larger work envelope

Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Tuesday, April 9, 2024 at 08:59:35 AM PDT, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:


Technically, this type of mill is called a "bed mill" versus a "knee mill" (like the oft mentioned Bridgeports but also larger and smaller knee mills).

If it is in good condition, and even if perhaps not so good, I would expect one of these to produce better results on their worst day than a mini-mill does on its best day.

The primary compromise I suspect most people think about with the "mill-drill" machines is that they are giving up.? And therefore, giving up a much larger work envelope.

I view the mini-mills as just small, weak, low power, low quality, versions of this style.? It is likely that once you have a decent one of these larger versions, you might want to usher your mini-mill out the door.

I think that is probably a long discontinued model, but that probably doesn't matter.? It is very likely that the spindle is R-8 which would be good.? Hopefully some tooling comes with it.

You can go to??to see their current array (which includes mini-mills) and find the closest match to see what a new one might cost retail today.

My bona fides with mills is that I actually DO have a mini-mill that, inexplicably, I find myself using a lot even though I swear at it some.? (Most recently from the locking levers stripping inside as the pot metal crystallized or something.? Little Machine Shop replacement handles to the rescue.)? I also have a Kao Fong knee mill of a medium size of the rotating head style such as the current Grizzly G0731.? At workplaces I have used Bridgeports, a similar Lagun, and a small Clausing 8520 (which makes for a REAL nice milling machine for a home shop.)? For MY home shop, I certainly looked at mill/drills pretty seriously back in the day but got a good deal on the knee mill as I bundled it with a purchase of a Shen-Wai 12x36 lathe.? (Mill and lathe from Taiwan.)? Otherwise, I would probably have bought a mill/drill as being "good enough."

Unless you really need a lot of vertical workpiece space, I think you would be happy with a decent mill/drill.

I know you have a larger lathe, so you know what it is like to use a truly decent machine.? I think many on this group don't know what that's like as mini-whatever's may be their only experience which can, for many, be discouraging at times.? A decent condition mill/drill (so long as NOT the mini-mill version) will give you that same experience of being able to focus on the workpiece and not frustrate with the foibles of a marginal machine.

Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer??

? ??

On Tuesday, April 9, 2024 at 03:29:36 AM PDT, Miket_NYC <mctaglieri@...> wrote:


Monday night I was looking at the latest Home Shop Machinist and saw a cover story about someone making new dials for his Jet mill-drill so theyd look more like Bridgeport dials. (This involved designing a machine to engrave the new dials, designing another machine to resharpen carbide engraving tools to needle sharp points, etc. People in HSM often go overboard in cover articles, perhaps to get to be cover articles).

I paid little attention to the modification story, but I was intrigued by the mill-drill itself. I have a Harbor Freight mini-mill (the one with the tiltable column) that I bought in 2017. It's given me good service and I love using it for drilling, but its low power and small capacity have sometimes been a trial.

For example, when I was restoring my South Bend shaper, I had to make a new gib for the shaper ram out of phosphor bronze. The SB gib is a foot long, and that's the exact length of the table on the mini-mill. So milling the edges of the gib was a mess and cutting oil grooves in it was even worse. I had to keep unclamping the work and moving it on the table, because a one-foot table gives you much less then a foot of table TRAVEL, and a table as long as the work means you can't clamp it on both ends at the same time.?

The thing that saved me on that shaper gib job was that it works fine and will never be seen by human eyes until after I'm dead. But if that had been practically anything else, I would've has to scrap the part (probably several? times), in metal that cost $100/square foot.? Also, even on the lower speed setting, this mini-mill doesn’t have much power.

But the mill-drill in that story had twice as long a table and more capacity in every area,? plus a 2 HP motor. (With real American horses, not Chinese horses). So I looked on ebay to see what they sell for and discovered that the Grizzly equivalent is for sale right across the river in Brooklyn right now, for a used price similar to what I paid for my mini-mill in 2017.


What do people think of this? I know there's criticism of round-columned mill-drills because the head can move from side to side when changing height but I could figure out ways around that, and I'd much rather have that problem than to try to make something more rigid or more powerful then it was designed to be.

?I was originally hesitant about the weight of the thing since I lived by myself and drive a VW GTI. But it looks like it can break down into pieces, and I could make several trips.

I'm sick with a cold, so I'm not visiting the seller immediately, but probably will later this week.

Mike Taglieri?
Re: Mini-mill vs. Mill-drill?

 

Technically, this type of mill is called a "bed mill" versus a "knee mill" (like the oft mentioned Bridgeports but also larger and smaller knee mills).

If it is in good condition, and even if perhaps not so good, I would expect one of these to produce better results on their worst day than a mini-mill does on its best day.

The primary compromise I suspect most people think about with the "mill-drill" machines is that they are giving up.? And therefore, giving up a much larger work envelope.

I view the mini-mills as just small, weak, low power, low quality, versions of this style.? It is likely that once you have a decent one of these larger versions, you might want to usher your mini-mill out the door.

I think that is probably a long discontinued model, but that probably doesn't matter.? It is very likely that the spindle is R-8 which would be good.? Hopefully some tooling comes with it.

You can go to??to see their current array (which includes mini-mills) and find the closest match to see what a new one might cost retail today.

My bona fides with mills is that I actually DO have a mini-mill that, inexplicably, I find myself using a lot even though I swear at it some.? (Most recently from the locking levers stripping inside as the pot metal crystallized or something.? Little Machine Shop replacement handles to the rescue.)? I also have a Kao Fong knee mill of a medium size of the rotating head style such as the current Grizzly G0731.? At workplaces I have used Bridgeports, a similar Lagun, and a small Clausing 8520 (which makes for a REAL nice milling machine for a home shop.)? For MY home shop, I certainly looked at mill/drills pretty seriously back in the day but got a good deal on the knee mill as I bundled it with a purchase of a Shen-Wai 12x36 lathe.? (Mill and lathe from Taiwan.)? Otherwise, I would probably have bought a mill/drill as being "good enough."

Unless you really need a lot of vertical workpiece space, I think you would be happy with a decent mill/drill.

I know you have a larger lathe, so you know what it is like to use a truly decent machine.? I think many on this group don't know what that's like as mini-whatever's may be their only experience which can, for many, be discouraging at times.? A decent condition mill/drill (so long as NOT the mini-mill version) will give you that same experience of being able to focus on the workpiece and not frustrate with the foibles of a marginal machine.

Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer??

? ??

On Tuesday, April 9, 2024 at 03:29:36 AM PDT, Miket_NYC <mctaglieri@...> wrote:


Monday night I was looking at the latest Home Shop Machinist and saw a cover story about someone making new dials for his Jet mill-drill so theyd look more like Bridgeport dials. (This involved designing a machine to engrave the new dials, designing another machine to resharpen carbide engraving tools to needle sharp points, etc. People in HSM often go overboard in cover articles, perhaps to get to be cover articles).

I paid little attention to the modification story, but I was intrigued by the mill-drill itself. I have a Harbor Freight mini-mill (the one with the tiltable column) that I bought in 2017. It's given me good service and I love using it for drilling, but its low power and small capacity have sometimes been a trial.

For example, when I was restoring my South Bend shaper, I had to make a new gib for the shaper ram out of phosphor bronze. The SB gib is a foot long, and that's the exact length of the table on the mini-mill. So milling the edges of the gib was a mess and cutting oil grooves in it was even worse. I had to keep unclamping the work and moving it on the table, because a one-foot table gives you much less then a foot of table TRAVEL, and a table as long as the work means you can't clamp it on both ends at the same time.?

The thing that saved me on that shaper gib job was that it works fine and will never be seen by human eyes until after I'm dead. But if that had been practically anything else, I would've has to scrap the part (probably several? times), in metal that cost $100/square foot.? Also, even on the lower speed setting, this mini-mill doesn’t have much power.

But the mill-drill in that story had twice as long a table and more capacity in every area,? plus a 2 HP motor. (With real American horses, not Chinese horses). So I looked on ebay to see what they sell for and discovered that the Grizzly equivalent is for sale right across the river in Brooklyn right now, for a used price similar to what I paid for my mini-mill in 2017.


What do people think of this? I know there's criticism of round-columned mill-drills because the head can move from side to side when changing height but I could figure out ways around that, and I'd much rather have that problem than to try to make something more rigid or more powerful then it was designed to be.

?I was originally hesitant about the weight of the thing since I lived by myself and drive a VW GTI. But it looks like it can break down into pieces, and I could make several trips.

I'm sick with a cold, so I'm not visiting the seller immediately, but probably will later this week.

Mike Taglieri?
Re: Mini-mill vs. Mill-drill?

 

Why not just use a DRO.
A lot work for a dial.

FYI I see a better dial for cross slide of a lathes only.?

Dave?
Mini-mill vs. Mill-drill?

 

Monday night I was looking at the latest Home Shop Machinist and saw a cover story about someone making new dials for his Jet mill-drill so theyd look more like Bridgeport dials. (This involved designing a machine to engrave the new dials, designing another machine to resharpen carbide engraving tools to needle sharp points, etc. People in HSM often go overboard in cover articles, perhaps to get to be cover articles).

I paid little attention to the modification story, but I was intrigued by the mill-drill itself. I have a Harbor Freight mini-mill (the one with the tiltable column) that I bought in 2017. It's given me good service and I love using it for drilling, but its low power and small capacity have sometimes been a trial.

For example, when I was restoring my South Bend shaper, I had to make a new gib for the shaper ram out of phosphor bronze. The SB gib is a foot long, and that's the exact length of the table on the mini-mill. So milling the edges of the gib was a mess and cutting oil grooves in it was even worse. I had to keep unclamping the work and moving it on the table, because a one-foot table gives you much less then a foot of table TRAVEL, and a table as long as the work means you can't clamp it on both ends at the same time.?

The thing that saved me on that shaper gib job was that it works fine and will never be seen by human eyes until after I'm dead. But if that had been practically anything else, I would've has to scrap the part (probably several? times), in metal that cost $100/square foot.? Also, even on the lower speed setting, this mini-mill doesn’t have much power.

But the mill-drill in that story had twice as long a table and more capacity in every area,? plus a 2 HP motor. (With real American horses, not Chinese horses). So I looked on ebay to see what they sell for and discovered that the Grizzly equivalent is for sale right across the river in Brooklyn right now, for a used price similar to what I paid for my mini-mill in 2017.


What do people think of this? I know there's criticism of round-columned mill-drills because the head can move from side to side when changing height but I could figure out ways around that, and I'd much rather have that problem than to try to make something more rigid or more powerful then it was designed to be.

?I was originally hesitant about the weight of the thing since I lived by myself and drive a VW GTI. But it looks like it can break down into pieces, and I could make several trips.

I'm sick with a cold, so I'm not visiting the seller immediately, but probably will later this week.

Mike Taglieri?
Re: Lathe Front Shields

 

That is very true.
Just stand to one side and let the oil fly.?

I did see just after OSHA first started in 1970's to put guards all around a engine. It die quickly too.?

Dave?

gcvisalia@...
12:24pm? ?
I think it's rather obvious that there are many ways to deal with this issue
Re: Motor protection

 

I learned this in? college from an old time machinist. Foremen would walk among the machines putting their hands on the motors. If you could leave a hand on the motor?then it wasn't working hard enough. Likewise I surprised a PhD friend with a sample and hold ammeter showing him that his lathe motor drew 6 times the running current?when starting unloaded!


On Mon, Apr 8, 2024 at 12:13?PM mike allen <animal@...> wrote:

Most quality drill presses , table saws & even some bench grinders have those built into the motors . Look for the little red button .? Their real handy units to have a couple laying around . The pellet stove in my other shop has 3 inside . Having no manual it took me a while to find all of them . I like the idea of one on the printer bed . Been thinking about something like this , last week the thermocouple on my print head came out of its place on the print head I knew something was up I could smell it & hit the emergency shutoff & after some diggin I found it's little head out in open air instead of its hole it lives in .

thanks

animal


On 4/8/24 9:04 AM, Chris Albertson wrote:
These things are a thermal switch.? They open an electrical circuit if the temperature is above their set point.? So you would bolt them firmly to any object that you do nopt want to be very hot. ? That might be the motor


But our mini-lathes are usually hand operated so the operator would be close by and if the spindle jammed, he’d see it and shut off ther power manually.

There switches are mostly used on automated equipment where the operator is not present.? It might be good to have one on a CNC lathe or mill because you might not be nearby while it is running. ? I have one on the heated baed of a 3D printer as a backup shutdown in case the primary controller fails to detect an accidental overheating. ? ?THese are almost always used as a backup system to a primary controller.

You see them mounted inside domestic water heaters too, If the heat ever gets to 125C, there is obviously something wrong (water can’t be heated over 100C) and the system needs to shutdown.? Same with cloths driers, they use these thermal switches to shutdown power if the unit gets too hot, which would only happen if the primary controller failed.

Modern equipment of all kinds is usually designed so that it remains safe even after a major failure happens, ?So they use these on anything that can overheat and catch fire. ? But again, do you need one on a manually operated lathe?? If so then why not on a drill press, table saw or bench grinder?



On Apr 8, 2024, at 12:25?AM, DAVID WILLIAMS via <d.i.williams@...> wrote:

Dear All,

First, thank you for the information.

Sorry for my ignorance, but where exactly do you fit these resettable thermal fuses on the lathe. Anywhere on the live power line input?? As they are resettable, then presumably they must be relatively easily accessible.?

Thanks in anticipation.

David (UK)

On 8 Apr 2024, at 06:54, Tony Smith <ajsmith1968@...> wrote:

?
Those are “last resort” fuses, you really want a resettable one like these:?, or these:?
?
Replacing those fuses is a PITA, especially since they need to be crimped, not soldered.? (Everyone makes that mistake at least once.)
?
No harm having both, just make sure the resettable one is a lower temperature.
?
Tony
?
?
From:?[email protected] <[email protected]>?On Behalf Of?davesmith1800
Sent:?Monday, 8 April 2024 3:24 PM
To:?[email protected]
Subject:?[7x12MiniLathe] Motor protection
?
Using time delay and thermal overload?
Will save a motor?

This is a thermal over load set at 200°F or 93°C.?


Time delay gives a over load for starting to 10 time rate ampage for very short time.

Dave??
Re: Lathe Front Shields

 

I think it's rather obvious that there are many ways to deal with this issue and one just has to find what works for them. For me there are several things I use depending on what I'm doing. For sure we should not limit ourselves.

george

On Monday, April 8, 2024 at 08:24:23 AM PDT, davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...> wrote:


I am more interested not having oil all over from the lathe chuck.

I good set safety glasses witch can buy upto 3.00 from some machine shop supplier. On internet you can find low cost RX safety glasses too.?

The face shield is great but hard to keep clean to see out of.

Dave?
.

Robert Francis
7:25am? ?
On Sun, Apr 7, 2024, 05:26 Craig Hopewell via groups.io <cch80124@...> wrote:
I could not agree more , Charles. The shields are an attempt to limit the "crunchy floor", and could well wear out their welcome. For me, versus the floor, I try to remember to wear a face shield as I am visually impaired (retina disease) and have to work very close. Often closer than the new shields. The effort to make the shields was as much to see what I could build as anything of making a substantial improvement.
An infinitely adjustable cardboard square, chasing the swarf ejection, may be a superior solution, George.
And now having said this, I have one of those coolant tube created shields with a magnet on the opposite end mounted on the drill press - with the shield positioned above the belt enclosure - not in use for years. 8^|
--
Lone Tree, Colorado USA
?Reply Like More
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Re: Motor protection

 

开云体育

Most quality drill presses , table saws & even some bench grinders have those built into the motors . Look for the little red button .? Their real handy units to have a couple laying around . The pellet stove in my other shop has 3 inside . Having no manual it took me a while to find all of them . I like the idea of one on the printer bed . Been thinking about something like this , last week the thermocouple on my print head came out of its place on the print head I knew something was up I could smell it & hit the emergency shutoff & after some diggin I found it's little head out in open air instead of its hole it lives in .

thanks

animal


On 4/8/24 9:04 AM, Chris Albertson wrote:

These things are a thermal switch. ?They open an electrical circuit if the temperature is above their set point. ?So you would bolt them firmly to any object that you do nopt want to be very hot. ? That might be the motor


But our mini-lathes are usually hand operated so the operator would be close by and if the spindle jammed, he’d see it and shut off ther power manually.

There switches are mostly used on automated equipment where the operator is not present. ?It might be good to have one on a CNC lathe or mill because you might not be nearby while it is running. ? I have one on the heated baed of a 3D printer as a backup shutdown in case the primary controller fails to detect an accidental overheating. ? ?THese are almost always used as a backup system to a primary controller.

You see them mounted inside domestic water heaters too, If the heat ever gets to 125C, there is obviously something wrong (water can’t be heated over 100C) and the system needs to shutdown. ?Same with cloths driers, they use these thermal switches to shutdown power if the unit gets too hot, which would only happen if the primary controller failed.

Modern equipment of all kinds is usually designed so that it remains safe even after a major failure happens, ?So they use these on anything that can overheat and catch fire. ? But again, do you need one on a manually operated lathe? ?If so then why not on a drill press, table saw or bench grinder?



On Apr 8, 2024, at 12:25?AM, DAVID WILLIAMS via groups.io <d.i.williams@...> wrote:

Dear All,

First, thank you for the information.

Sorry for my ignorance, but where exactly do you fit these resettable thermal fuses on the lathe. Anywhere on the live power line input? ?As they are resettable, then presumably they must be relatively easily accessible.?

Thanks in anticipation.

David (UK)

On 8 Apr 2024, at 06:54, Tony Smith <ajsmith1968@...> wrote:

?
Those are “last resort” fuses, you really want a resettable one like these:?, or these:?
?
Replacing those fuses is a PITA, especially since they need to be crimped, not soldered.? (Everyone makes that mistake at least once.)
?
No harm having both, just make sure the resettable one is a lower temperature.
?
Tony
?
?
From:?[email protected] <[email protected]>?On Behalf Of?davesmith1800
Sent:?Monday, 8 April 2024 3:24 PM
To:?[email protected]
Subject:?[7x12MiniLathe] Motor protection
?
Using time delay and thermal overload?
Will save a motor?

This is a thermal over load set at 200°F or 93°C.?


Time delay gives a over load for starting to 10 time rate ampage for very short time.

Dave??
Re: Lathe Front Shields

 

开云体育

??? Face shields mess with my peripheral vision? the edge always makes me look over to one side or the other .

??? animal

On 4/8/24 8:24 AM, davesmith1800 wrote:

I am more interested not having oil all over from the lathe chuck.

I good set safety glasses witch can buy upto 3.00 from some machine shop supplier. On internet you can find low cost RX safety glasses too.?

The face shield is great but hard to keep clean to see out of.

Dave?
.
Robert Francis
7:25am? ?
On Sun, Apr 7, 2024, 05:26 Craig Hopewell via groups.io <cch80124@...> wrote:
I could not agree more , Charles. The shields are an attempt to limit the "crunchy floor", and could well wear out their welcome. For me, versus the floor, I try to remember to wear a face shield as I am visually impaired (retina disease) and have to work very close. Often closer than the new shields. The effort to make the shields was as much to see what I could build as anything of making a substantial improvement.
An infinitely adjustable cardboard square, chasing the swarf ejection, may be a superior solution, George.
And now having said this, I have one of those coolant tube created shields with a magnet on the opposite end mounted on the drill press - with the shield positioned above the belt enclosure - not in use for years. 8^|
--
Lone Tree, Colorado USA
?Reply Like More
previous pageView All 18 Messages In Topicnext pageprevious page#119356next page
Re: Motor protection

Chris Albertson
 

开云体育

These things are a thermal switch. ?They open an electrical circuit if the temperature is above their set point. ?So you would bolt them firmly to any object that you do nopt want to be very hot. ? That might be the motor


But our mini-lathes are usually hand operated so the operator would be close by and if the spindle jammed, he’d see it and shut off ther power manually.

There switches are mostly used on automated equipment where the operator is not present. ?It might be good to have one on a CNC lathe or mill because you might not be nearby while it is running. ? I have one on the heated baed of a 3D printer as a backup shutdown in case the primary controller fails to detect an accidental overheating. ? ?THese are almost always used as a backup system to a primary controller.

You see them mounted inside domestic water heaters too, If the heat ever gets to 125C, there is obviously something wrong (water can’t be heated over 100C) and the system needs to shutdown. ?Same with cloths driers, they use these thermal switches to shutdown power if the unit gets too hot, which would only happen if the primary controller failed.

Modern equipment of all kinds is usually designed so that it remains safe even after a major failure happens, ?So they use these on anything that can overheat and catch fire. ? But again, do you need one on a manually operated lathe? ?If so then why not on a drill press, table saw or bench grinder?



On Apr 8, 2024, at 12:25?AM, DAVID WILLIAMS via groups.io <d.i.williams@...> wrote:

Dear All,

First, thank you for the information.

Sorry for my ignorance, but where exactly do you fit these resettable thermal fuses on the lathe. Anywhere on the live power line input? ?As they are resettable, then presumably they must be relatively easily accessible.?

Thanks in anticipation.

David (UK)

On 8 Apr 2024, at 06:54, Tony Smith <ajsmith1968@...> wrote:

?
Those are “last resort” fuses, you really want a resettable one like these:?, or these:?
?
Replacing those fuses is a PITA, especially since they need to be crimped, not soldered.? (Everyone makes that mistake at least once.)
?
No harm having both, just make sure the resettable one is a lower temperature.
?
Tony
?
?
From:?[email protected] <[email protected]>?On Behalf Of?davesmith1800
Sent:?Monday, 8 April 2024 3:24 PM
To:?[email protected]
Subject:?[7x12MiniLathe] Motor protection
?
Using time delay and thermal overload?
Will save a motor?

This is a thermal over load set at 200°F or 93°C.?


Time delay gives a over load for starting to 10 time rate ampage for very short time.

Dave??
Re: Motor protection

Chris Albertson
 

开云体育

They come in different shapes. ? This kind has a hole for an M3 size screw.

I don’t know what temperature limit is best. ?Motors can run OK at 80C even if you think that is too hot. ?So about 1.5 times that seems OK. ?These are set for 125C



On Apr 7, 2024, at 10:53?PM, Tony Smith <ajsmith1968@...> wrote:

Those are “last resort” fuses, you really want a resettable one like these:?, or these:?
?
Replacing those fuses is a PITA, especially since they need to be crimped, not soldered.? (Everyone makes that mistake at least once.)
?
No harm having both, just make sure the resettable one is a lower temperature.
?
Tony
?
?
From:?[email protected]?<[email protected]>?On Behalf Of?davesmith1800
Sent:?Monday, 8 April 2024 3:24 PM
To:?[email protected]
Subject:?[7x12MiniLathe] Motor protection
?
Using time delay and thermal overload?
Will save a motor?

This is a thermal over load set at 200°F or 93°C.?


Time delay gives a over load for starting to 10 time rate ampage for very short time.

Dave??


Re: Lathe Front Shields

 

I am more interested not having oil all over from the lathe chuck.

I good set safety glasses witch can buy upto 3.00 from some machine shop supplier. On internet you can find low cost RX safety glasses too.?

The face shield is great but hard to keep clean to see out of.

Dave?
.

Robert Francis
7:25am? ?
On Sun, Apr 7, 2024, 05:26 Craig Hopewell via groups.io <cch80124@...> wrote:
I could not agree more , Charles. The shields are an attempt to limit the "crunchy floor", and could well wear out their welcome. For me, versus the floor, I try to remember to wear a face shield as I am visually impaired (retina disease) and have to work very close. Often closer than the new shields. The effort to make the shields was as much to see what I could build as anything of making a substantial improvement.
An infinitely adjustable cardboard square, chasing the swarf ejection, may be a superior solution, George.
And now having said this, I have one of those coolant tube created shields with a magnet on the opposite end mounted on the drill press - with the shield positioned above the belt enclosure - not in use for years. 8^|
--
Lone Tree, Colorado USA
?Reply Like More
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Re: Motor protection

 

It depends on type.
The best mounts on motor so reads the temperature of motor and opens at a given temperature.??

I lot of motors will have type built in the motor.?

It very useful at low speed using high torque when motor fan is moving slowly.

Dave?

Re: Lathe Front Shields

 


On Sun, Apr 7, 2024, 05:26 Craig Hopewell via <cch80124=[email protected]> wrote:
I could not agree more , Charles.? ? The shields are an attempt to limit the "crunchy floor", and could well wear out their welcome.? ?For me, versus the floor, I try to remember to wear a face shield as I am visually impaired (retina disease) and have to work very close.? ?Often closer than the new shields.? ?The effort to make the shields was as much to see what I could build as anything of making a substantial improvement.

An infinitely adjustable cardboard square, chasing the swarf ejection, may be a superior solution, George.

And now having said this, I have one of those coolant tube created shields with a magnet on the opposite end mounted on the drill press - with the shield positioned above the belt enclosure - not in use for years.? ?8^|
--
Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA

Re: Motor protection

 

开云体育

Dear All,

First, thank you for the information.

Sorry for my ignorance, but where exactly do you fit these resettable thermal fuses on the lathe. Anywhere on the live power line input? ?As they are resettable, then presumably they must be relatively easily accessible.?

Thanks in anticipation.

David (UK)

On 8 Apr 2024, at 06:54, Tony Smith <ajsmith1968@...> wrote:

?

Those are “last resort” fuses, you really want a resettable one like these: , or these:

?

Replacing those fuses is a PITA, especially since they need to be crimped, not soldered.? (Everyone makes that mistake at least once.)

?

No harm having both, just make sure the resettable one is a lower temperature.

?

Tony

?

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of davesmith1800
Sent: Monday, 8 April 2024 3:24 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [7x12MiniLathe] Motor protection

?

Using time delay and thermal overload?
Will save a motor?

This is a thermal over load set at 200°F or 93°C.?


Time delay gives a over load for starting to 10 time rate ampage for very short time.

Dave?

Re: Motor protection

 

开云体育

Those are “last resort” fuses, you really want a resettable one like these: , or these:

?

Replacing those fuses is a PITA, especially since they need to be crimped, not soldered.? (Everyone makes that mistake at least once.)

?

No harm having both, just make sure the resettable one is a lower temperature.

?

Tony

?

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of davesmith1800
Sent: Monday, 8 April 2024 3:24 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [7x12MiniLathe] Motor protection

?

Using time delay and thermal overload?
Will save a motor?

This is a thermal over load set at 200°F or 93°C.?


Time delay gives a over load for starting to 10 time rate ampage for very short time.

Dave?

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