chrisser 1:16pm? ?
Realistically, it's outside. Essentially a barn with garage doors and a concrete floor
They do make a protective coating. You use long term storage or over sea shipping works great? But take to remove before the lathe can be used.? The #4 waylube will last for 2 or 3 months in summer and winter upto 6 months before recovering.?? The upside to waylube is lathe ready to used. Dave?
?
|
Chemical bluing is merely an oxide film that is intended to retain oil and hide (not really prevent) fingerprint corrosion.? It is practically zero thickness so it shouldn't affect accuracy, but it is soft and won't stand up under wear.
Kurt Laughlin
|
You don't want a lubricant and you don't want an oil.? You want something that has a primary purpose as a corrosion preventive.? As someone mentioned, LPS-3 is the way to go.? It is an actual military specification preservative meant for applications just like this.? It is listed in the specification as "The corrosion preventive compound covered by this specification is intended for the following uses: (a) For extended indoor protection of interior or exterior surfaces of machinery, instruments, bearings or materials with or without use of supplementary barrier materials, (b) For outdoor protection of material for limited periods where metal temperatures do not reach levels that produce prohibitive flow of the corrosion preventive film."? It is easy to remove where and when needed and harmless if left in place for long periods.? On top of that, it readily available.? I have used it for decades and am on my second or third can.
Boeshield T-9 is apparently a similar product, but unlike LPS-3 it does not claim to meet the specification.? It will pass a test or two in some specs, but it does not say it *meets* the requirements of the specs.? Big difference.
If you really want to go right, get Tectyl 502C Class 1, Esgard PL-2.1, Nox-Rust 502DLS, or VPCI-369M.? These are the products currently qualified to meet the specification.? Not that others won't, but these guys have paid the money to do the tests and get checked by Naval Sea Systems Command.
Kurt Laughlin
|
If there is rust on the parts it needs to be removed and cleaned then apply a rust inhibitor spray.? Bluing lathe parts could possibly create inaccuracies but I can¡¯t say for sure because I have never tried it.? I just keep my machines well maintained. Have A Great Day?? Tracy Ranson
I've often wondered if blueing the lathe parts would help.? Some of the ones from the factory have rusted a bit, but who knows what process the factory used.
Would blueing affect the accuracy of the ways and other sliding parts?
On Monday, March 11th, 2024 at 8:36 PM, T < tracyallenranson@...> wrote:
I use Vans gun blue which works great. The key is to make sure that you clean the metal prior to bluing. I use ultrasonic cleaner and acetone for cleaning metal and to avoid touching the metal I wear gloves. I also saturate the metal surface with the bluing keeping it wet for at least 3-5 minutes, I rinse the parts and dry well after rinsing then soak the blued parts in an oil bath for no less than 24 hours. If you do it right you can have a nice protective coating that lasts for a long time. Have A Great Day Tracy Ranson
Move to southern Arizona? 8-P
Seriously, maybe get some way oil? It¡¯s more viscous might be better to prevent rust?
I may have mentioned this before, but I have a serious moisture/humidity issue here in WV. Similar issue as further South, except we tend to have cooler temperatures, especially at night so the tools are often still below the due point when the moisture increases during the day.
It's a particular problem in my garage/shop which is uninsulated.
I've solved this with my small precision tools by keeping them oiled and keeping them in gasket-sealed plastic containers with some dessicant packs.
I thought I had solved this on my bench tools by coating them with Ballistol - only to find that it doesn't seem to hold up all that well over time. I went over to the lathe that I had coated heavily in Ballistol in January only to find rust patches on the ways. Came off easily enough with some fine scotchbrite, but I'd like to find something better.
Thinking of trying Birchwood Casey Barricade, which is supposedly better than Ballistol and also made for firearms.
Just wondering if anyone has a better solution. Wondering if just plain motor oil would be adequate.
--
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
|
Someone has already mentioned "Golden Rod" heaters with regards to spaces on boats. It is (perhaps the original?) one of many rod heaters now advertised for gun safes. They are available in 7 to 25 watts and not too expensive (though way more than an incandescent light bulb - if you can find one any more), are pretty tough and long lasting.
Of course a coating is still desirable; the lanolin-containing ones like Fluid Film have performed the best for me in my unheated Montana shop..
|
I've often wondered if blueing the lathe parts would help.? Some of the ones from the factory have rusted a bit, but who knows what process the factory used.
Would blueing affect the accuracy of the ways and other sliding parts?
On Monday, March 11th, 2024 at 8:36 PM, T <tracyallenranson@...> wrote:
I use Vans gun blue which works great. The key is to make sure that you clean the metal prior to bluing. I use ultrasonic cleaner and acetone for cleaning metal and to avoid touching the metal I wear gloves. I also saturate the metal surface with the bluing keeping it wet for at least 3-5 minutes, I rinse the parts and dry well after rinsing then soak the blued parts in an oil bath for no less than 24 hours. If you do it right you can have a nice protective coating that lasts for a long time. Have A Great Day Tracy Ranson
Move to southern Arizona? 8-P
Seriously, maybe get some way oil? It¡¯s more viscous might be better to prevent rust?
I may have mentioned this before, but I have a serious moisture/humidity issue here in WV. Similar issue as further South, except we tend to have cooler temperatures, especially at night so the tools are often still below the due point when the moisture increases during the day.
It's a particular problem in my garage/shop which is uninsulated.
I've solved this with my small precision tools by keeping them oiled and keeping them in gasket-sealed plastic containers with some dessicant packs.
I thought I had solved this on my bench tools by coating them with Ballistol - only to find that it doesn't seem to hold up all that well over time. I went over to the lathe that I had coated heavily in Ballistol in January only to find rust patches on the ways. Came off easily enough with some fine scotchbrite, but I'd like to find something better.
Thinking of trying Birchwood Casey Barricade, which is supposedly better than Ballistol and also made for firearms.
Just wondering if anyone has a better solution. Wondering if just plain motor oil would be adequate.
--
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
|
I use Vans gun blue which works great.? The key is to make sure that you clean the metal prior to bluing.? I use ultrasonic cleaner and acetone for cleaning metal and to avoid touching the metal I wear gloves.? I also saturate the metal surface with the bluing keeping it wet for at least 3-5 minutes, I rinse the parts and dry well after rinsing then soak the blued parts in an oil bath for no less than 24 hours.? If you do it right you can have a nice protective coating that lasts for a long time. Have A Great Day?? Tracy Ranson
Move to southern Arizona? 8-P?
Seriously, maybe get some way oil? It¡¯s more viscous might be better to prevent rust?
I may have mentioned this before, but I have a serious moisture/humidity issue here in WV.? Similar issue as further South, except we tend to have cooler temperatures, especially at night so the tools are often still below the due point when the moisture increases during the day.
It's a particular problem in my garage/shop which is uninsulated.??
I've solved this with my small precision tools by keeping them oiled and keeping them in gasket-sealed plastic containers with some dessicant packs.
I thought I had solved this on my bench tools by coating them with Ballistol - only to find that it doesn't seem to hold up all that well over time.? I went over to the lathe that I had coated heavily in Ballistol in January only to find rust patches on the ways.? Came off easily enough with some fine scotchbrite, but I'd like to find something better.
Thinking of trying Birchwood Casey Barricade, which is supposedly better than Ballistol and also made for firearms.
Just wondering if anyone has a better solution.? Wondering if just plain motor oil would be adequate.
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
|
I have a nice Jacob chuck buy does not take small drill and do not want modify the one on drill press. So purchased one Walmart.??  
|
On Mar 11, 2024, at 11:35?AM, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
I wonder why a light bulb would be any more dangerous if left on 24/7 versus, say, 2 hours, or 8 hours?? ?Or whatever number of hours in the millions of homes over a hundred years or so.?
Light bulbs are safe when installed in well-designed lighting fixtures. ? A light bulb¡¯s filament is literally as hot as the surface of the sun (maybe 3000 degrees Kelvin) and when the glass breaks, the filament might come in contact with something.
A low-watt heater might burn the same number of watts but never under any circumstances get as hot as an old-fashioned bulb.
It is also wrong to assume those old bulbs were safe. ?Many thousands of people were killed in building fires started by bad lighting installations. ?It was as common as gasoline fires in cars, so common it never made the evening news.
You can bury a reptile heater in a stack of newspaper and it will not ignite them. ?But any low-temperature heater would work. ? ?I hope everyone here understands the difference between heat and temperature. ?You wan the heat, but not the temperature.
Actually, a new LED bulb would work well. ?They burn about 6 to 9 Watts and never get toot to touch. ?They are usulaay in strong plastic not glass so they don¡¯t break if dropped and most people already have many of them on hand.
Want protection around the bulb?? Use a regular caged shop drop light.? The light bulb seems a bit ubiquitous to have any particular danger, even if left on all the time, in my opinion.? But a heating element alone does make more sense, the bulb merely being convenient and available - well, incandescent USED to be easily available.
Regarding any type of pad whether designed for people or reptiles (and the distinction may blur in some cases), why not use a heater designed for the purpose that comes in a solid packaged form.? Like the aforementioned cabinet heater, or enclosure heaters.? They are designed for industrial purposes such as this.
Or, if you want to stray off the industrial reservation, you can search for "terrarium heaters" at Amazon.? You will find some pad oriented things, but also solid choices including a "ceramic heat emitter" which conveniently screws into a light bulb socket but is a heating element only.? All sorts of things that are not "pads".
You can also search the group archived messages as this topic has been discussed before at least a couple of times.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 10:35:38 AM PDT, Chris Albertson <albertson.chris@...> wrote:
Light bulbs can be dangerous and even a fire hazard if left on 24x7. ? ?A better solution, that I just discovered is a ¡°reptile heater¡±. These are low-powered heater pads you buy for reptiles kept as pets. ? They never get too hot to touch and are safe for animals ?You can buy the pads on Amazon or at 1/3rd the price on Aliexpress. ? ?A 7 Watt pad should be enough. ?Attach the pad to any metal surface and it will stay just barly warm. ? ? I guess you could also put them on a ¡°smart plug¡± and program it to be on only when needed. For a cover I used scraps cut from an older car cover. ? Another reason to NOT use a light bulb, the covers are flammable.
Here is an example: ?
On Mar 11, 2024, at 10:16?AM, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
I have most often heard of people having a cover over the machine and then a light bulb (incandescent for the heat) underneath.? As well as the usual "oil it" a lot.
In this "Practical Machinist" blog, the light bulb and many other suggestions are offered.
|
May SB lathe was in the garage for 20 years. Other locations a metal build?
I Used #4 waylube never had rust using waylube.
Dave
|
Realistically, it's outside.? Essentially a barn with garage doors and a concrete floor.
On Monday, March 11th, 2024 at 3:59 PM, Miket_NYC <mctaglieri@...> wrote:
Is your shop outdoors or inside? If inside, I recommend the solution I found: a dehumidifier. I keep the humidity in my basement shop at 60-65%. If it weren't for the dehumidifier it would be up in the 80% range (like the house upstairs).
Mike Taglieri
I may have mentioned this before, but I have a serious moisture/humidity issue here in WV. Similar issue as further South, except we tend to have cooler temperatures, especially at night so the tools are often still below the due point when the moisture increases during the day.
It's a particular problem in my garage/shop which is uninsulated.
I've solved this with my small precision tools by keeping them oiled and keeping them in gasket-sealed plastic containers with some dessicant packs.
I thought I had solved this on my bench tools by coating them with Ballistol - only to find that it doesn't seem to hold up all that well over time. I went over to the lathe that I had coated heavily in Ballistol in January only to find rust patches on the ways. Came off easily enough with some fine scotchbrite, but I'd like to find something better.
Thinking of trying Birchwood Casey Barricade, which is supposedly better than Ballistol and also made for firearms.
Just wondering if anyone has a better solution. Wondering if just plain motor oil would be adequate.
|
chrisser 10:00am? ?
I may have mentioned this before, but I have a serious moisture/humidity issue here in WV. Similar issue as further South, except we tend to have cooler temperatures, especially at night so the tools are often still below the due point when the moisture increases during the day
I found way oil #4 does good job. When finished brush on #4 and never had problem for 50 years. Dave?
|
Is your shop outdoors or inside? If inside, I recommend the solution I found: a dehumidifier. I keep the humidity in my basement shop at 60-65%. If it weren't for the dehumidifier it would be up in the 80% range (like the house upstairs).?
Mike Taglieri?
I may have mentioned this before, but I have a serious moisture/humidity issue here in WV.? Similar issue as further South, except we tend to have cooler temperatures, especially at night so the tools are often still below the due point when the moisture increases during the day.
It's a particular problem in my garage/shop which is uninsulated.??
I've solved this with my small precision tools by keeping them oiled and keeping them in gasket-sealed plastic containers with some dessicant packs.
I thought I had solved this on my bench tools by coating them with Ballistol - only to find that it doesn't seem to hold up all that well over time.? I went over to the lathe that I had coated heavily in Ballistol in January only to find rust patches on the ways.? Came off easily enough with some fine scotchbrite, but I'd like to find something better.
Thinking of trying Birchwood Casey Barricade, which is supposedly better than Ballistol and also made for firearms.
Just wondering if anyone has a better solution.? Wondering if just plain motor oil would be adequate.
|
I doubt if there is any "spec" as there are SO many variables.? Temperature, humidity, temperature swings, size of machine, volume of area to heat, how tightly or loosely covered, how well otherwise protected (oiled well or not so much), and maybe phase of the moon.
It is my sense in reading comments here and there over the years that a 40 watt incandescent bulb would likely be more than enough.? And perhaps as little as 7 watts (like a Christmas tree bulb) might be sufficient, but I would doubt that.
I also just read a suggestion by somebody using "tubular greenhouse heaters" with the brand name "GoldenRod" but on Amazon I see it marketed as a gun safe heater.? Better yet.? If ever there was another product where you don't want rust, it might be guns.
Here it is at Amazon for 30 bucks.? It is 12 watts.
For any of these things, you could also add a thermostat designed to have a regular AC receptacle in it.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 12:42:50 PM PDT, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
Perhaps there's a spec for required wattage for this application
?
animal
On 3/11/24 12:23 PM, Charles Kinzer
wrote:
Yes.? There are many "oil pan
heaters" and you will also find "block heaters" for cars to
use in cold weather and they all seem to be vastly more
wattage than would be needed for an indoor application of
warming up a few cubic feet of air.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 12:20:20 PM PDT, mike allen
<animal@...> wrote:
I was going to add in to try a magnetic oil pan
heaters , but the smallest that Kats makes is 200
watts , But maybe? that a usable wattage . I did a
search for magnetic oil pan heaters & ended up
over on the big A ( surprise ) & came across these
. They make them in several different sizes . Maybe ya
can use one of the? Katz ones & throttle it down
with a Variac if ya just happen to have one of those
laying around .
animal
On 3/11/24
11:35 AM, Charles Kinzer wrote:
I wonder why a light bulb would be any
more dangerous if left on 24/7 versus, say, 2 hours,
or 8 hours?? ?Or whatever number of hours in the
millions of homes over a hundred years or so.? Want
protection around the bulb?? Use a regular caged
shop drop light.? The light bulb seems a bit
ubiquitous to have any particular danger, even if
left on all the time, in my opinion.? But a heating
element alone does make more sense, the bulb merely
being convenient and available - well, incandescent
USED to be easily available.
Regarding any type of pad whether
designed for people or reptiles (and the distinction
may blur in some cases), why not use a heater
designed for the purpose that comes in a solid
packaged form.? Like the aforementioned cabinet
heater, or enclosure heaters.? They are designed for
industrial purposes such as this.
Or, if you want to stray off the
industrial reservation, you can search for
"terrarium heaters" at Amazon.? You will find some
pad oriented things, but also solid choices
including a "ceramic heat emitter" which
conveniently screws into a light bulb socket but is
a heating element only.? All sorts of things that
are not "pads".
You can also search the group archived
messages as this topic has been discussed before at
least a couple of times.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
Light bulbs can be dangerous and even a
fire hazard if left on 24x7. ? ?A better
solution, that I just discovered is a ¡°reptile
heater¡±. These are low-powered heater pads you
buy for reptiles kept as pets. ? They never
get too hot to touch and are safe for animals
?You can buy the pads on Amazon or at 1/3rd
the price on Aliexpress. ? ?A 7 Watt pad
should be enough. ?Attach the pad to any metal
surface and it will stay just barly warm. ? ?
I guess you could also put them on a ¡°smart
plug¡± and program it to be on only when
needed. For a cover I used scraps cut from an
older car cover. ? Another reason to NOT use a
light bulb, the covers are flammable.
Here is an example: ?
On Mar 11, 2024, at 10:16?AM,
Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...>
wrote:
I have most often
heard of people having a cover
over the machine and then a
light bulb (incandescent for the
heat) underneath.? As well as
the usual "oil it" a lot.
In this "Practical
Machinist" blog, the light bulb
and many other suggestions are
offered.
|
Boeshield T9 created by Boeing to prevent oxidation on bare metal.
It's a waxy coating. Spray can or liquid in a bottle.
Bill Dudley
|
Perhaps there's a spec for required wattage for this application
?
animal
On 3/11/24 12:23 PM, Charles Kinzer
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Yes.? There are many "oil pan
heaters" and you will also find "block heaters" for cars to
use in cold weather and they all seem to be vastly more
wattage than would be needed for an indoor application of
warming up a few cubic feet of air.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 12:20:20 PM PDT, mike allen
<animal@...> wrote:
I was going to add in to try a magnetic oil pan
heaters , but the smallest that Kats makes is 200
watts , But maybe? that a usable wattage . I did a
search for magnetic oil pan heaters & ended up
over on the big A ( surprise ) & came across these
. They make them in several different sizes . Maybe ya
can use one of the? Katz ones & throttle it down
with a Variac if ya just happen to have one of those
laying around .
animal
On 3/11/24
11:35 AM, Charles Kinzer wrote:
I wonder why a light bulb would be any
more dangerous if left on 24/7 versus, say, 2 hours,
or 8 hours?? ?Or whatever number of hours in the
millions of homes over a hundred years or so.? Want
protection around the bulb?? Use a regular caged
shop drop light.? The light bulb seems a bit
ubiquitous to have any particular danger, even if
left on all the time, in my opinion.? But a heating
element alone does make more sense, the bulb merely
being convenient and available - well, incandescent
USED to be easily available.
Regarding any type of pad whether
designed for people or reptiles (and the distinction
may blur in some cases), why not use a heater
designed for the purpose that comes in a solid
packaged form.? Like the aforementioned cabinet
heater, or enclosure heaters.? They are designed for
industrial purposes such as this.
Or, if you want to stray off the
industrial reservation, you can search for
"terrarium heaters" at Amazon.? You will find some
pad oriented things, but also solid choices
including a "ceramic heat emitter" which
conveniently screws into a light bulb socket but is
a heating element only.? All sorts of things that
are not "pads".
You can also search the group archived
messages as this topic has been discussed before at
least a couple of times.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
Light bulbs can be dangerous and even a
fire hazard if left on 24x7. ? ?A better
solution, that I just discovered is a ¡°reptile
heater¡±. These are low-powered heater pads you
buy for reptiles kept as pets. ? They never
get too hot to touch and are safe for animals
?You can buy the pads on Amazon or at 1/3rd
the price on Aliexpress. ? ?A 7 Watt pad
should be enough. ?Attach the pad to any metal
surface and it will stay just barly warm. ? ?
I guess you could also put them on a ¡°smart
plug¡± and program it to be on only when
needed. For a cover I used scraps cut from an
older car cover. ? Another reason to NOT use a
light bulb, the covers are flammable.
Here is an example: ?
On Mar 11, 2024, at 10:16?AM,
Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...>
wrote:
I have most often
heard of people having a cover
over the machine and then a
light bulb (incandescent for the
heat) underneath.? As well as
the usual "oil it" a lot.
In this "Practical
Machinist" blog, the light bulb
and many other suggestions are
offered.
|
Though I dont have a serious rust issue here in calif, it does exist. Found that oil is usually the best though I have been using way oil and have found it to be leaving a nice coating on tools. Course it works great on the lathe and mill, no more rust. As to bulbs, when we lived in a small island in the Pacific, we had a small light bulb on in the closets to ward off mildew 24/7. It worked. If done right, there is no danger. Many have covered engines with a blanket and left a bulb underneath the engine to keep things warm enough to start in the cold morning. So you can get all fancy or just use a bulb.
george
?
On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 11:34:13 AM PDT, Bill Williams <bwmsbldr1@...> wrote:
Having had my lathe?on the Gulf Coast of Texas I found that a cover over the machine,;an old linen table cloth?is dust free; and a 25 watt lighrbulb?will ward off condensation.? Bill
I second the Way Oil suggested by Bruce.?
I use it on all my tools that go in the drawer and I put it on the mill and the lathe. If it looks like it might rust, it gets a good coating...
Seriously, maybe get some way oil? It¡¯s more viscous might be better to prevent rust?
--
Buffalo John
|
Yes.? There are many "oil pan heaters" and you will also find "block heaters" for cars to use in cold weather and they all seem to be vastly more wattage than would be needed for an indoor application of warming up a few cubic feet of air.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 12:20:20 PM PDT, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
I was going to add in to try a magnetic oil pan heaters , but the
smallest that Kats makes is 200 watts , But maybe? that a usable
wattage . I did a search for magnetic oil pan heaters & ended
up over on the big A ( surprise ) & came across these . They
make them in several different sizes . Maybe ya can use one of
the? Katz ones & throttle it down with a Variac if ya just
happen to have one of those laying around .
animal
On 3/11/24 11:35 AM, Charles Kinzer
wrote:
I wonder why a light bulb
would be any more dangerous if left on 24/7 versus, say, 2
hours, or 8 hours?? ?Or whatever number of hours in the
millions of homes over a hundred years or so.? Want protection
around the bulb?? Use a regular caged shop drop light.? The
light bulb seems a bit ubiquitous to have any particular
danger, even if left on all the time, in my opinion.? But a
heating element alone does make more sense, the bulb merely
being convenient and available - well, incandescent USED to be
easily available.
Regarding any type of pad
whether designed for people or reptiles (and the distinction
may blur in some cases), why not use a heater designed for the
purpose that comes in a solid packaged form.? Like the
aforementioned cabinet heater, or enclosure heaters.? They are
designed for industrial purposes such as this.
Or, if you want to stray off
the industrial reservation, you can search for "terrarium
heaters" at Amazon.? You will find some pad oriented things,
but also solid choices including a "ceramic heat emitter"
which conveniently screws into a light bulb socket but is a
heating element only.? All sorts of things that are not
"pads".
You can also search the group
archived messages as this topic has been discussed before at
least a couple of times.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
Light bulbs can be dangerous and even a fire hazard
if left on 24x7. ? ?A better solution, that I just
discovered is a ¡°reptile heater¡±. These are low-powered
heater pads you buy for reptiles kept as pets. ? They
never get too hot to touch and are safe for animals ?You
can buy the pads on Amazon or at 1/3rd the price on
Aliexpress. ? ?A 7 Watt pad should be enough. ?Attach
the pad to any metal surface and it will stay just barly
warm. ? ? I guess you could also put them on a ¡°smart
plug¡± and program it to be on only when needed. For a
cover I used scraps cut from an older car cover. ?
Another reason to NOT use a light bulb, the covers are
flammable.
Here is an example: ?
On Mar 11, 2024, at 10:16?AM, Charles Kinzer
<ckinzer@...> wrote:
I have most often heard of
people having a cover over the machine and
then a light bulb (incandescent for the
heat) underneath.? As well as the usual
"oil it" a lot.
In this "Practical Machinist"
blog, the light bulb and many other
suggestions are offered.
|
I was going to add in to try a magnetic oil pan heaters , but the
smallest that Kats makes is 200 watts , But maybe? that a usable
wattage . I did a search for magnetic oil pan heaters & ended
up over on the big A ( surprise ) & came across these . They
make them in several different sizes . Maybe ya can use one of
the? Katz ones & throttle it down with a Variac if ya just
happen to have one of those laying around .
animal
On 3/11/24 11:35 AM, Charles Kinzer
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I wonder why a light bulb
would be any more dangerous if left on 24/7 versus, say, 2
hours, or 8 hours?? ?Or whatever number of hours in the
millions of homes over a hundred years or so.? Want protection
around the bulb?? Use a regular caged shop drop light.? The
light bulb seems a bit ubiquitous to have any particular
danger, even if left on all the time, in my opinion.? But a
heating element alone does make more sense, the bulb merely
being convenient and available - well, incandescent USED to be
easily available.
Regarding any type of pad
whether designed for people or reptiles (and the distinction
may blur in some cases), why not use a heater designed for the
purpose that comes in a solid packaged form.? Like the
aforementioned cabinet heater, or enclosure heaters.? They are
designed for industrial purposes such as this.
Or, if you want to stray off
the industrial reservation, you can search for "terrarium
heaters" at Amazon.? You will find some pad oriented things,
but also solid choices including a "ceramic heat emitter"
which conveniently screws into a light bulb socket but is a
heating element only.? All sorts of things that are not
"pads".
You can also search the group
archived messages as this topic has been discussed before at
least a couple of times.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
Light bulbs can be dangerous and even a fire hazard
if left on 24x7. ? ?A better solution, that I just
discovered is a ¡°reptile heater¡±. These are low-powered
heater pads you buy for reptiles kept as pets. ? They
never get too hot to touch and are safe for animals ?You
can buy the pads on Amazon or at 1/3rd the price on
Aliexpress. ? ?A 7 Watt pad should be enough. ?Attach
the pad to any metal surface and it will stay just barly
warm. ? ? I guess you could also put them on a ¡°smart
plug¡± and program it to be on only when needed. For a
cover I used scraps cut from an older car cover. ?
Another reason to NOT use a light bulb, the covers are
flammable.
Here is an example: ?
On Mar 11, 2024, at 10:16?AM, Charles Kinzer
<ckinzer@...> wrote:
I have most often heard of
people having a cover over the machine and
then a light bulb (incandescent for the
heat) underneath.? As well as the usual
"oil it" a lot.
In this "Practical Machinist"
blog, the light bulb and many other
suggestions are offered.
|
Another + for the way oil is is stays where ya put it . I had a
problem with things in a walk in closet that was attached to a
bathroom in the early 80's . My mom ( thanks mom ) suggested a
office sized trash can full of charcoal briquets . That seemed to
do the job for me .
animal
On 3/11/24 10:10 AM, Bruce J wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Move to southern Arizona? 8-P?
Seriously, maybe get some way oil? It¡¯s more viscous might be
better to prevent rust?
I may have mentioned this before, but I have a serious
moisture/humidity issue here in WV.? Similar issue as
further South, except we tend to have cooler temperatures,
especially at night so the tools are often still below the
due point when the moisture increases during the day.
It's a particular problem in my garage/shop which is
uninsulated.??
I've solved this with my small precision tools by keeping
them oiled and keeping them in gasket-sealed plastic
containers with some dessicant packs.
I thought I had solved this on my bench tools by coating
them with Ballistol - only to find that it doesn't seem to
hold up all that well over time.? I went over to the lathe
that I had coated heavily in Ballistol in January only to
find rust patches on the ways.? Came off easily enough
with some fine scotchbrite, but I'd like to find something
better.
Thinking of trying Birchwood Casey Barricade, which is
supposedly better than Ballistol and also made for
firearms.
Just wondering if anyone has a better solution.? Wondering
if just plain motor oil would be adequate.
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are
made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him
botulism.
|
davesmith1800
T
chrisser