??????????????? It is definatly a depth micrometer. I have been working to adapt one to the tailstock of my Cumins. You could have? one on every axis for less than $20. Sometimes better is the enemy of “good enough”.??? Bill in Boulder CO Sent from for Windows 10 ?
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From: Miket_NYC Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2022 19:57 To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Depth gauge ? This IS a depth micrometer. It's accurate to two decimal places. It's just being sold as a tire tread gage. Assuming it's properly made (not a guarantee with Banggoods stuff), I see no reason why it can't?be used. ? On Wed, Apr 13, 2022, 7:43 AM OldToolmaker via <old_toolmaker=[email protected]> wrote: Pierre,
If a tire tread depth gage works for you, use it.
As for me, I will choose a depth micrometer any day.
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This IS a depth micrometer. It's accurate to two decimal places. It's just being sold as a tire tread gage. Assuming it's properly made (not a guarantee with Banggoods stuff), I see no reason why it can't?be used.
Mike Taglieri?
On Wed, Apr 13, 2022, 7:43 AM OldToolmaker via <old_toolmaker= [email protected]> wrote: Pierre,
If a tire tread depth gage works for you, use it.
As for me, I will choose a depth micrometer any day.
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On Sun, Apr 10, 2022 at 05:21 PM, Ryan H wrote:
That looks handy!?
I haven't solved the problem of my Sieg/MicroLux lathe trying to cut tapers all the time. I think there are a bunch of different variables with the tailstock barrel, and the different centers I'm using in the tailstock. So it's a long way from"set it and forget it". But with the new tailstock adjuster setup I can make adjustments as I work. I was turning the OD for a new cross slide leadscrew yesterday and I wanted that OD to be 'similar'? ?along the length. Using the micrometer and those tailstock adjusters, I could get it 'dialed in' while doing the roughing cuts. So that's a big improvement.
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On Wed, Apr 13, 2022 at 04:43 AM, OldToolmaker wrote:
Pierre,
If a tire tread depth gage works for you, use it.
As for me, I will choose a depth micrometer any day.
There's a big difference between $10 and $150+ for most of us.
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Pierre,
If a tire tread depth gage works for you, use it.
As for me, I will choose a depth micrometer any day.
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FYI; This is an answer if you are looking for a cheap depth gauge. Fidgety, but it works. Pierre? ?https://www.banggood.com/Audew-0-25_4mm-LCD-Digital-Vehicle-Tyre-Tread-Depth-Gauge-Measuring-Caliper-Tire-Repair-Tools-p-1204755.html?rmmds=email_recommend¤cy=USD&utm_source=emarsys&utm_medium=mail_automail48_email&utm_campaign=newsletterai&utm_content=leander&sc_src=email_5236423&sc_eh=bd178df90349bf781&sc_llid=53647&sc_lid=243364224&sc_uid=MvJcEYwu6q&cur_warehouse=USA
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On Apr 10, 2022, 5:56 PM -0400, j_r_abercrombie via groups.io <j_r_abercrombie@...>, wrote:
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Yesterday's project was the tailstock on the Microlux 7x14. I added an adjuster, following the instructions in Ted Hansen's book. It works well. I also changed the clamp bolt to a 1/4-28 which tightens from the top, and added a pair of setscrews to the outboard end. It definitely makes adjustments a lot easier.
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Yesterday's project was the tailstock on the Microlux 7x14. I added an adjuster, following the instructions in Ted Hansen's book. It works well. I also changed the clamp bolt to a 1/4-28 which tightens from the top, and added a pair of setscrews to the outboard end. It definitely makes adjustments a lot easier.  
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Re: Report on Vevor 7x14 $500 CAD delivered - Impulse buy....
I'm finding quite a lot to like about the RealBull as I work my way 'up'. Today I worked on the carriage lock and cross slide(additional) gib screws. There are some nice machined surfaces in the Vevor/RealBull that aren't so well finished in the Sieg/Microlux. Real Bull cross supports (web?) in the base have milled tops.  The saddle and the cross slide are fully machined.   So, lots to like, especially for the price I paid. :)
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Re: Report on Vevor 7x14 $500 CAD delivered - Impulse buy....
On Thu, Apr 7, 2022 at 11:57 AM, @ThomasKeefe wrote:
Nice job on the tapered gibs!
Thanks! I am liking them a lot. Making them without a mill was interesting. :) Epoxy and CA adhesive for holding workpieces- they have changed the game completely.
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Re: Report on Vevor 7x14 $500 CAD delivered - Impulse buy....
In the same line a friend used the signature “If I can’t fix it I can fix it so it can’t be fixed!” ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
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From: Mark KimballSent: Thursday, April 7, 2022 10:32 To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Report on Vevor 7x14 $500 CAD delivered - Impulse buy.... ? On Sun, Apr 3, 2022 at 08:18 PM, <j_r_abercrombie@...> wrote: "If it ain't broke, I'll fix it till it is!" :)
Hehe.? I need one of those signs too!
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Re: Report on Vevor 7x14 $500 CAD delivered - Impulse buy....
Nice job on the tapered gibs!
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Re: Report on Vevor 7x14 $500 CAD delivered - Impulse buy....
Mine is in two pieces now ….
On Sun, Apr 3, 2022 at 08:18 PM, < j_r_abercrombie@...> wrote:
"If it ain't broke, I'll fix it till it is!" :)
Hehe.? I need one of those signs too!
--? Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
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Re: Report on Vevor 7x14 $500 CAD delivered - Impulse buy....
On Sun, Apr 3, 2022 at 08:18 PM, <j_r_abercrombie@...> wrote:
"If it ain't broke, I'll fix it till it is!" :)
Hehe.? I need one of those signs too!
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Re: Report on Vevor 7x14 $500 CAD delivered - Impulse buy....
Crossing off items in the ToDo list, slowly. Today: Tapered gibs for the carriage done (..that task was spread over 3 days in all- a few hours each day). Half-nuts (split nut) wasn't engaging properly and wouldn't engage at all in reverse. I cleaned up the 'entries' at the ends with a small grindstone in the Dremel, and ground off a couple of bits of mangled threads. Filed off some burrs in the half-nut assembly in the apron and got the lever actuator working more smoothly. Changed the gears to a coarse thread set so I could get the leadscrew turning quickly and polished the threads and nuts by lapping with carborundum powder and grease. Its working much more smoothly now. Next up - cross slide, and carriage lock
 
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Re: Lathe and milling attachment - which cutters to get started?
Bruce,
Your posting titled? -->"1 Half nut vs 2 half nut", <--?
references a carriage lock...
.
Is this what you are asking for?
On 4/5/2022 2:46 PM, Bruce J wrote:
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I got a 3/8” MT3 adapter (at the time from Victor Machinery
because they were pretty cheap.) similar to this:??
This was based on watching a video from Mr Pete on
youtube that discussed using a milling adapter on a lather; it
is the most resistant to the cutter being pulled out of the
holder, be it an adapter like this, a collet chuck or just the
regular chuck.
I also made a simple, but effective carriage lock
that improved the process quite a bit. I posted it here but
cannot find it right now; does anyone know how to search
messages by a key word AND who posted the message?
On Apr 5, 2022, at 11:29 AM, Michael
Jablonski < michaeljab@...>
wrote:
I started the same
way did, with the lathe milling attachment. I went
with a 3/8” collet and set of HSS Center cutting 4
Flute 3/8” shank endmills from LMS.
<??>
?
This way I only
needed one 3/8” collet.
?
I quickly learned
that I had made a mistake trying to mill on the
lathe and purchased a 3990 Hi-Torque mill from LMS.
?
Only attempt
conventional milling on the lathe, no climb cutting.
Good Luck.
?
Michael - California,
USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux
7x16
LMS 3990 Hi-Torque
Mill with power feed
?
?
?
?
7x14 lathe with 500
watt motor, no Hi-Lo gearbox.
I have a milling attachment and collet faceplate and
collets.
What cutters should I get to start?
I don't have any specific projects in mind, yet.
Thanks.?
--?
Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B.
Banzai, PhD
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Re: Lathe and milling attachment - which cutters to get started?
I use a Unimat DB200 vertical milling spindle on my 7x16 Mocro Mark minilathe. This works good for me. I can use end mills from 1/32” to 3/8” and larger at times.
I can also use The Unimat headstock in horizontal mode at any angle which is a more solid setup allowing larger cutters to be used. So cutter size selection is contingent upon how solid the setup is.
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Re: Lathe and milling attachment - which cutters to get started?
On Wed, Apr 6, 2022 at 11:57 AM, Chris Albertson wrote:
What you need is a collection of small end mills, from 2 mm up to about 8 mm in diameter.???These break so buy spares.
?
Thanks, Chris. I've heard that the carbide tools don't like any sort of shock loading, so I'm buying a bunch of tools from different Chinese sellers.
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Re: Lathe and milling attachment - which cutters to get started?
I have one of those milling attachments.? ? I don't use it anymore because I now have a mill.? ? But with the attachment, you will only?be doing the smallest of jobs.? Perhaps cutting a keyway slot on a shaft or making the end of a shaft into a "D" shape.? What you need is a collection of small end mills, from 2 mm up to about 8 mm in diameter.???These break so buy spares.
What you can never have is enough of is clamping tools.? ?But you can make these as needed,?
On Tue, Apr 5, 2022 at 1:37 AM j_r_abercrombie via <j_r_abercrombie= [email protected]> wrote: On Mon, Apr 4, 2022 at 10:59 PM, <mfslater@...> wrote:
Get half a dozen 3/8" square HSS blanks
Thanks, Martin, but my question was about milling cutters...end mills, fly cutter, etc....I should have stated it more clearly.
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
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Re: Lathe and milling attachment - which cutters to get started?
At those rotational speeds, everything must be well balanced. ? The turbine, bearings, and burs for high-speed air-drive dental handpieces are designed to spin at up to ~ 400,000 RPM and deliver an amazing amount of power to those tiny (shank diameter 1.6 mm) carbide or diamond coated burs.? ? ? Jerry F. ? ? ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Mark Kimball
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2022 9:56 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Lathe and milling attachment - which cutters to get started?? When using the type of end mill holder that uses a grub screw to hold the EM in place, it's important to make sure the slot in the EM is pulled up against the screw.? Otherwise, as I learned the hard way, the end mill still can be pulled down and ruin your work.? You want the screw to act as a stop as well as a holding device.
This said, I have to wonder about smaller end mills that don't have a slot ground in their shank.? I think a collet-type holder probably would hold them more firmly.? I definitely would use a collet for smaller carbide end mills -- the point force of the grub screw could break the cutter.?
At work we had a machine for cutting small pockets in things like integrated circuit packages and it could spin the cutters up to 150,000RPM's.? As you can imagine it used a very well balanced collet.
Mark
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OldToolmaker
